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I'm about to start on the WNW Bristol F.2b for the 'User Review Group', so I thought I'd join this group build and document my progress here. This is my first large scale biplane and my first WNW kit. I must say I am most impressed with everything about this kit. The packaging, the plastic, the decals, the instructions, all scream out quality. I have ordered EZ line to do the rigging and am trying to source some micro brass tubing (I'm in Ontario, Canada). I think the rigging will be the most daunting task and I have been scouring the forum for examples of how you guys handle that challenge (any advice gratefully accepted). I will be doing the Maharaja Bahadur presentation aircraft.F_2b_zpse3a2d5f7.jpg

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Got a bit more rigging done. The secret, I think, is to do a little at a time or it could drive you potty. I realised I should have attached the rudder control cables before glueing the two fuselage h

I'm about to start on the WNW Bristol F.2b for the 'User Review Group', so I thought I'd join this group build and document my progress here. This is my first large scale biplane and my first WNW kit.

Finally have some progress worth posting. The Brisfit is on its feet at last.     Thanks to Dave J, I was able to replace the damaged decal on the fin and then attach this and the elevators. The

Here is my rendition of the Biff:

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=42357&hl=%2Bthe+%2Bbiff+%2Bpiece

 

 Am was kept to a minimum , and prolly only 100 or so scratched/added parts. There is a rigging thread here as well:

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=42591&hl=+the%20+biff%20+piece

 There are sites on there with good info.

 The Bristol fighter is one of the better WNW kits, I used a jig to build and rig it , others have their own ways , I liked the stability and the ease of handling the model while it was secured in the jig.

 Parts needing the most work were the exhaust and brackets , the oil tank , and the observers guns and mount.

 

 Good luck!

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Made a start yesterday on the Biff. First task was to tidy the bench and then start snipping parts from the sprue.

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Dry fitting the cockpit and fuselage, revealed some visible ejector pin marks which needed attention. The ones on the fuselage interior were quite shallow and I was able to sand back the surrounding plastic till they disappeared. The ones on the cockpit floor were deeper so I glued in some discs of very thin card which I punched out using my CB Model productions punch set. These will be sanded flush and any flaws filled with Mr Surfacer.

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OK, so I know it's not much of a post, but I wanted to show that I had at least made a start. More to follow very soon.

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Good choice,

A note, if you try to represent the fuselage frame rigging, do make sure nothing sticks out at the other

Side of the fuselageframe parts, otherwise the halves won't fit. Ask me how I know. The fit

Is very precise.

Cees

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Got some base colours on some of the parts which make up the cockpit.

 

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Painted the floor and the instrument panel XF59 Desert Yellow, and the side bracing with XF59 darkened with XF68 Nato Brown, then followed up with some woodgraining. Shamelessly stole Doogs method of using packing foam to remove the oil paint (raw umber) and will be also using his varnishing method of mixing clear yellow and orange and spraying over the wood grained parts. (Cheers Doogs ;))

 

beb90c2a-6d95-444e-a554-41846e660e1a_zps31fa66e4-a540-4b8f-b31d-02de18f962ea_zps

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Made a little progress on the interior

 

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Painted the bezels and decalled the IP

 

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Painted some of the details on the sidewall framing. I'm using Tamiya acrylics mixed with their own brand retarder and this is working out fine for brush painting. Also started the eye boggling task of installing the tension cabling to the frames. My eyesight sure isn't what it used to be.

 

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I folded and painted the photo etch canvas stowage

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and made a start on prepping the engine. I cut off the moulded on spark plugs and drilled 2 holes in each cylinder head to accept the ignition wires that will be added from scratch.. 

 

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More to come soon.

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First of all, apologies for lack of real progress. It's the silly season at work, my two sons are very busy at the moment with various activities, and me and the missus are trying to launch a silver jewelery business (her being a silversmith). So bench time has been limited but small progress has been made.

 

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Did a bit more detail painting on the interior and got the seat painted and installed. I simulated the leather by painting it a brown colour and then painting the area around the dimples black. I then followed up by brushing on a fairly dry coat of hull red and then applying a wash. For the whicker seat, I sprayed buff and then applied a dark wash. Then dry brushed with a lightened buff.

 

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After painting the metal foot retainers on the pedals silver, I noticed a prominent mould seam which the silver paint accentuated. Still trying to decide whether to try and scrape it off or leave it as it will be buried deep inside the cockpit. I don't want to risk breaking these fragile parts.

 

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I attached smoke coloured nylon thread to the floor for the bracing wires behind the seat and will attach the other end to the frame when complete. I applied a wash to the 'metal' parts to pop some of the detail and to give a used look.

 

 

I also completed the bracing wires for one of the cockpit side frames. I cut shallow grooves at the back of the part and then laid the above mentioned nylon thread in these with cyano glue. The turnbuckles being represented by 0.5mm brass tubing cut to 1 mm lengths. Very fiddly, but worth it.

 

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Hoping to get the cockpit finished this week and move onto the engine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the pit more or less finished, still working on the belts and will add some control cables.

 

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Painted the machine gun and ammo cases Tamiya matt black and followed up with a drybrushing of Humbrol silver enamel. This gives a realistic gun metal finish. I added a strip of styrene behind the canvas (p.e.) stowage bag in order to be able to firmly attach it to the rear of the cockpit frame.

 

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Also did some work on the engine. After spraying the cylinders semi-gloss black, I got in between them with a fine brush and painted the top of the crank case with a silver enamel.

 

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Following the instructions, I painted parts of the engine a steel colour (Gunze steel). This looked a bit dark so followed up with a drybrush of silver enamel. After a dark wash to pop the detail, these parts looked suitably heavy and metallic while contrasting nicely with the crankcase.

 

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A wash and detail painting followed and the engine is progressing nicely.

 

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I glued copper wire to the pre-formed channels on the back of the magnetos to form the ignition harness. The other ends will be attached to the pre-drilled holes in the cylinder heads.

 

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I must take this opportunity to mention a very handy tool for applying just the right amount of thin glue. It is called the 'Glue Looper' and is a photo-etched tool which fits onto a standard Exacto handle. This holds a small bead of thin cyano or styrene glue which releases due to capillary action on contact and is very handy for delivering the right amount of adhesive to exactly where it is needed. Highly recommended.

 

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Having a great time with this kit.

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