rieser Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Hasegawa's G-6 kit with ideas of modelling Lt Manfred Dieterle's "Yellow 4", based on the Montex Super Mask set K32024... ... some left-over Eduard bits and lead foil... ... it does say "Fills fine gaps. Creates invisible seams." Tried it for some larger areas but wasn't keen on the results. Too grainy and soft so went back to Mr Surfacer. Another go at some "black" using a base coat of X-18 Satin Black followed by random mucking about with a 50:50 mix of XF-68 NATO and XF-69 NATO Black; some XF-85 Rubber Black; and finally XF-69 NATO Black... XF-68, 69 and 85 were also used to start preshading the topside and exhaust stain areas. Not managed to find any pics of Dieterle's Yellow 4. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumm Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Good Morning Ralph, You've been busy! Lovely fine airbrush work all around and, as always, sound build fundamentals. http://www.flickr.com/photos/28092068@N03/7864051584/in/set-72157631642098014/ Let me know if the link doesn't work, and I'll try and take a grab of it from Marc's site. Cheers, Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Thanks Steve - was beaten by a flickr door gunner who wouldn't let me pass. More mucking about. RLM74/74 colours were based on a mix approach used by Marty Sandford on Hyperscale a long time ago. RLM75 areas loosely infilled with XF-77, then topcoated with a 3:2 mix of H69 and XF-50 (Marty used a 5:1 mix of XF-24 and XF-50). RLM74 areas were infilled with XF-74... ... and topcoated with a 4:1 mix of H68 and XF-27 (Marty used a 3:2 mix of XF-24 and XF-27). RLM76 was a 3:1 mix of XF-2 and XF-23, tightened up around the edges with some H57, and then some XF-19 (Marty used a 7:2:1 mix of XF-2, XF-66 and XF-23). Thanks again for looking. Cheers, Ralph. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumm Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 And, here we go... Credited to Lorant and Goyat, used without permission for the purposes of limited research. S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Cheers Steve - very much appreciated. Man am I a mile off.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumm Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Yeah, But it's pretty close to the Montex illustration. With those specific markings and the yellow spinner tip, there had to be a photo about somewhere. Frank (Daywalker) ended up painting his G-6 three times... It's all the rage now apparently! S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Really nice paint technique. I love it. Congrats, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Hi Ralph. I am loving your work on this and am very impressed by your airbrush work. As someone who is trying to finesse my own skills, I wondered if you could take a moment to explain your own technique here. I'd love to know more about which airbrush, pressure settings, paint to thinner ratios and general methods you use to obtain such fine work. I have some Luftwaffe mottling lined up for the near future and alas, my airbrushing is a bit of a blunt instrument at the moment. I aspire to achieving finishes like yours so any pointers will be gratefully accepted. Cheers, Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Cheers Ralph, I love seeing your AB work and this one is no exception. Pity the actual plane looks a bit different, what are your plans at this point? Seems a bit of a shame to cover up such beautiful work, hope it doesn't come to starting over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skybouncer Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Another Lesson from the Master of Colors and Weathering. You make it look so easy to blend the different colors together to form such an natural looking surface. Watch and learn. Still getting no Testors Dullcote Laquer in our shops here. Have to stick with Gunze Flatbase - But I think its not the product, its the knowledge ;-) Do you mix some of the basecolors with the Dullcote to blend it in? Great work, it is a pleasure to watch your progress posts. Greetings from Austria to Australia. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mikester Posted November 9, 2013 Members Share Posted November 9, 2013 And, here we go... Credited to Lorant and Goyat, used without permission for the purposes of limited research. S Interesting, I thumbed through JG 300 Vol. 1 by Lorant yesterday and apparently they didn't include this photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wumm Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 La version Française de 2004, mon ami! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 Fantastic work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mikester Posted November 11, 2013 Members Share Posted November 11, 2013 La version Française de 2004, mon ami! Well there you go, no speaka 'da Francaise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Thanks Gents. Mike: I use Tamiya and Gunze acryilics thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner - usually starting with about 70% thinner, and adding more for the in-close stuff. The paints are applied using an Aztek A470 airbrush fitted with their 0.3mm tan tip. Pressures are around 20-25psi, plus or minus the regulator gauge accuracy. Most of the application is done at about 5-10mm from the surface, with a jittery/shaky motion so that the density of the paint, and the shapes of the mottles look random. Most of the pre-shading is just mucking around to see what influence colours and shapes have on the topcoat colours. It could all be done just by post-shading I guess. Jerry: I do use Dullcote tinted with Tamiya acrylic colours as a way of adding dirt/grime. I've not tried it with an acrylic flat clear - must give it a go some time. Steve: had a go at following Frank's lead by overspraying the fuselage with a bit more light blue. This was applied with Tamiya's 0.2mm Superfine airbrush after losing it bigtime trying to emulate the results of local friends whose talent with this weapon far surpass mine (thanks Doorgunnars). Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Really beautiful. The paint job is........ Great job. Congrats, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnierex Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 wow... stunning Very inspiring, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodshedwings Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Mike: I use Tamiya and Gunze acryilics thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner - usually starting with about 70% thinner, and adding more for the in-close stuff. The paints are applied using an Aztek A470 airbrush fitted with their 0.3mm tan tip. Pressures are around 20-25psi, plus or minus the regulator gauge accuracy. Most of the application is done at about 5-10mm from the surface, with a jittery/shaky motion so that the density of the paint, and the shapes of the mottles look random. Most of the pre-shading is just mucking around to see what influence colours and shapes have on the topcoat colours. It could all be done just by post-shading I guess. Thanks very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeroenveen1 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Amazing work Ralph! I'm working on the Revell version of the G6 and this sure is an inspiration… I will follow until the last post my friend. Fabulous! By the way… I have my Grey Nurse Masks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 Cheers Gents. Hey Jeroen: good to hear. We might yet finish the Grey Nurses then! Markings on using a combination of Montex and Miracle Paint Mask masks. Balkencreuz black infill done with a 50:50 mix of XF-1 and XF-69; waves with XF-85. Yellow was a 50:50 mix of XF-3 and H413. Was surprised at how the blacks sucked the life out of the yellow. Doesn't pay to get any closer - even after careful wet-sanding with 6000 grade Micromesh. Thanks again for looking. Cheers, Ralph. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Nice save Ralph! So happy you didn't have to start over as she looks spot on now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Looking fantastic Ralph! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamme Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Love the paint scheme. Congrats, Ralph. Cheers, Jamme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mikester Posted November 14, 2013 Members Share Posted November 14, 2013 Very cool, Ralph. Gotta love those Wilde Sau schemes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 Cheers Gents. Basic paint work, kid's watercolour panel line washes, and Testors Dullcote on - now ready to start the airframe weathering. Roy Sutherland's "Bf 109G RIBBED HUB-SMOOTH TYRE" (BR32071). Tyre painted XF-63 German Grey, washed with Vallejo 70822 German Cam. Black Brown, and lightly sponged with some Vallejo Panzer Aces 321 Highlight British Tanker. Went very slowly with the drill - still some kit part trimming needed. Jerry Crandall's "Bf 109 Spinner" (EP#20-32) instead of the kit spinner. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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