nmayhew Posted November 6, 2022 Author Share Posted November 6, 2022 ok here's a short recap of the oils... the colours used on the exhausts were oxide patina, then faded dark yellow, then faded white the others were used on some light weathering of the canopy which i forgot to photograph the oils live in this tin which keeps them alive for a good few days if you ever want to go back / don't have time to do everything in one go (my Wife is Czech if you are wondering why I have a Czech wafer tin!) so first colour...looks good in the pics, but maybe only appropriate at this stage as a tank exhaust; not the ones with the sharpie mark on the sprue will be the first exhausts on each side, and these will not get any faded white next colour, the faded dark yellow and finally the faded white - i think will glue them on now and then see how they look in situ; they are reasonably accessible so that shouldn't be too difficult 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted November 7, 2022 Share Posted November 7, 2022 Your Mustang is coming together very nice, the paintjob is ultra-smooth on the detail shots. I use Pledge for clear parts often and it enhances the clarity by far. I try to minimize the masking period as short as possible and had bad results with liquid masks, which I don't use on canopy parts anymore. Wasn't there a seam on the canopy anyway? If, there is, there is no way around removing it and polish the whole thing. Cheers Rob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 4 hours ago, DocRob said: Your Mustang is coming together very nice, the paintjob is ultra-smooth on the detail shots. I use Pledge for clear parts often and it enhances the clarity by far. I try to minimize the masking period as short as possible and had bad results with liquid masks, which I don't use on canopy parts anymore. Wasn't there a seam on the canopy anyway? If, there is, there is no way around removing it and polish the whole thing. Cheers Rob Correct, there is a seam on the canopy. It’s one of the few true goofs by Tamiya in the kit. But whilst it’s daunting taking a scalpel blade to your “precious” (well actually not *that* precious - you have 2 spares, albeit of a slightly different design) and then sanding it, it’s actually pretty easy. There are many product combos that will do the job - I used Tamiya 3 step compounds and cloths here I think, but I also have Novus in the stash as well. we’ll agree to disagree on the floor stuff - I think the scope for f*cking up the dip and dry, and getting ‘antique glass slide’, outweighs its potential usefulness, especially when (imo) a good hand polish will always be better than a floor polish (feel free to snigger at any double entendres!!). Anyway, thanks for hanging in there with me, and sorry it’s dragging on somewhat! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belugawhaleman Posted November 7, 2022 Share Posted November 7, 2022 Great work! Very realistic rendering oft the weathered nmf...impressive as well as the good information and techniques you share...thanks. I've been looking the MRP product range, although seemingly expensive they do offer some advantages..... They look like they have an impressive range of colors. I have some British subjects coming up and while considering mixing the colors myself, I'm thinking now of going with the MRP paints....I've used their German red primer..and liked it. It looks like decals would go on easily over these paints without a gloss coat.....that would be a plus. Thanks for posting....Enjoying this thread. Paul. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 Just catching up and your Mustang is looking so good. I prefer my builds more on the clean side but it's always a matter of personal preference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted November 16, 2022 Author Share Posted November 16, 2022 sorry for the lack of updates, but my Skyczar is now pretty much finished. I need to add back on the small lever I snapped off on the left side of the cockpit, and maybe add some darker oils to the base of the exhausts, we’ll see. so, to summarise, 1/32 Tamiya kit... Barracuda wheels, battery / radio stuff and cockpit placards; Eduard bombs; HGW seatbelts and external placards; Lifelike decals for the cowling markings either side, Montex for everything else. MFS1500 primer, MRP paints, extensive use of spatter template. Weathered with oils. Wings filled with MS500. This bird was based down the road from me so I feel quite a connection to it. Pleased with the overall look. Things I quite like… - getting a non-uniform NMF finish, mainly by using spatter templates - very pleased with the top side dirt on wings; I know it could be ‘more’ but if I can replicate this in future builds personally I’ll be happy - a first: using Mac valve for first time to make tiny spatter / dirt marks - another first: painting wings and fuselage as completely separate assemblies - landing gear that screws in and is automatically in perfect alignment - in a flash the scariest part of any aircraft build was eliminated! - Barracuda wheels that fit the kit perfectly (they are finger tightened on their, not even glued) - how the weathering on the sides of wheels turned out - HGW belts and stencils (as always) - Tamiya Uber kits really do go together properly! Things I don’t like / could have done better… - overall NMF is too dark - I forgot to use spatter templates / blackbase the markings and stripes, so they look a bit meh / bland - filling the wings - I will try sanding the arse out of the wings first next time, and then use putty for panel lines, see where I get to, and then think about hitting it all with some MS1000 etc - being left with the removable panels which cover the landing gear - my construction choice because of the stripes etc - spending hours on cockpit nonsense that you just cannot see (won’t be doing that again) - Barracuda wiring cover (in beige / buff) fouls the canopy arch brace - come on Barracuda you should do better - Eduard bomb stripe decals do not fit very well - ffs make them longer / provide more spares so you can overlap them, or don’t have so much carrier film - wheel well wiring; my attempts to busy it up were pretty crap but hey ho 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted November 16, 2022 Author Share Posted November 16, 2022 few more pics btw @Jim H any reason why i get an error when selecting images direct from my files on my Mac? I can drag and drop, but the image quality is reduced? Works fine on ipad btw. Anyhoo, here we go... that's it for the pics. thanks for looking. armour next - MNH built Panther in Czechoslovakia at the end of the war. cheers Nick 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Very nice Nick, I love the finish, it looks very 'metallic' as it should. Extra detailing makes your Mustang stand out. Have you used pre cut masks for the wheel wells? I only ask, because I have ordered two sets of masks from Miryoku for mine. Cheers Rob 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Nick WOW, looking mighty good and the weathering isa spot on the money 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Nick, Your build thread is a masterclass all in itself - thanks and great work. Agree on your bits about some of the detail stuff. I was really unhappy with the Barracuda battery bit interfering with the Canopy support, too. Still urks me when I need to move the canopy. Also agree on a lot of the cockpit detail going unseen - I added a pilot to one of my builds and that just made matters even worse. On the other hand, I think we are our own worst critics - your build is beautiful and awe-inspiring. So many cool things (thanks for sharing your thoughts) you did there but we always want to do better on our next build. Awesome job! Chris 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Bloody amazing Nick, beautifully weathered Mustang, it's like a cure for my tired eyes Bravo! ....those hazelnut wafers made me drool too. Cheers Martin 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GusMac Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 Great result Nick. Just wondered if you used the oils for the panel lines as well or if you used an enamel based product? Also did you seal the NMF before the weathering? I'm attempting my first proper NMF at the moment and looking for all hints I can get. Thanks 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted November 16, 2022 Author Share Posted November 16, 2022 10 hours ago, DocRob said: Very nice Nick, I love the finish, it looks very 'metallic' as it should. Extra detailing makes your Mustang stand out. Have you used pre cut masks for the wheel wells? I only ask, because I have ordered two sets of masks from Miryoku for mine. Cheers Rob Hi Rob, no they were masked by hand - bit fiddly but it’s essentially just straight lines. from memory I think I sprayed it aluminium or something like that, then masked and sprayed the zinc chromate etc; I could have done more weathering there but in the end I think it was just a bit of an oil wash straight onto the paint 37 minutes ago, GusMac said: Great result Nick. Just wondered if you used the oils for the panel lines as well or if you used an enamel based product? Also did you seal the NMF before the weathering? I'm attempting my first proper NMF at the moment and looking for all hints I can get. Thanks Hi, yes oils all the way i have spent so much on enamel products over the years and the vast majority of it was money down the drain: not because the products are bad - I think oils are just better all round, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get good / great results with enamel stuff - but rather the containers they all came in. Unless you are literally churning out models every week, this stuff will just sit there and evaporate because the bottles that Mig, Ammo, AK all that crowd etc are just crap plastic and not fit for purpose. The products that I did keep have all been decanted into medical glass bottles - think old MRP bottles but a bit stubbier - with a few ball bearings in them. But to reiterate, none were used here and they are just sat on the shelf gathering dust. anyway, to the panel lines… I tend to be very careful with pin wash in panel lines: they tend to make things look more like a model and less like the real thing in my view, so I only add them in particular areas where I want a specific weathering effect. in 1/32 scale the kit is large enough that much of the panel line detail can stand on its own two feet in my view; all my recent builds have followed this approach (check my P-40). oils were usually applied over a satin / semi-gloss type finish, but you can do it over matte as well; over gloss you tend to just push them round on the surface and you struggle to get any ‘bite’ (pin wash aside). hope this helps. happy modelling Nick 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GusMac Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 Thanks Nick, that's very helpful 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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