Walrus (Airfix 1/48), NeOmega Catapult, and HMS Albatross (Niko 1/700) by Landlubber Mike

[Peterpools]

Mike

Just catching up and thoroughly enjoying your work. I'm just amazed at the level of detail you have achieved on both kits. 

 

[Landlubber Mike]

1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Mike

Just catching up and thoroughly enjoying your work. I'm just amazed at the level of detail you have achieved on both kits. 

 

Thanks Peter, really appreciate the kind words.  All the credit for the details go to the kits and aftermarket - I'm just trying not to screw it up too much.

Now I just hope to finish this all before the end of the month for the Group Build.  Is going to be awfully tight 🙁

[Peterpools]

Mike

Just go at your own pace. if you cross the line before the end of the GB date, just keep going, the builds are a gems.

[GazzaS]

Doing a great job on both kits.  PE slows me down...   I really dislike working with it, so often find other things to do than sit at my bench.

[Landlubber Mike]

On 6/4/2023 at 3:46 AM, GazzaS said:

Doing a great job on both kits.  PE slows me down...   I really dislike working with it, so often find other things to do than sit at my bench.

Thanks!  I just treat the PE as kits within the kit, as oftentimes it can be like an origami puzzle.  👍

[Landlubber Mike]

I've made some good progress on the Albatross.  Added the bow and stern posts, and finished building the masts.  I use cut down insect pins - which I think are stainless steel - for things like the posts that need a little more structural integrity and won't bend like brass or other materials when I invariably end up bumping into them.  

After taping the wooden decks - which was a project in itself - I ended up trying to replicate the plating runs on the hull by taping off alternating rows, and then spraying a heavy coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200.  We'll see how it goes - it's tricky in that you don't want to go overboard with too thick of paint as it will look out of scale.

 

I also managed to finish the cranes by adding aftermarket hooks from Rainbow and put together the catapult:

Next up I will clean up the hull plating lines and prime the full hull, deck structures, railings and other deck items using Mr. Surfacer 1500 black.  That will give a good base to paint the ship, which is pretty simple with a light grey hull, and darker gray above the deck.

Thanks for looking in!

[KevinM]

Looking great Mike!!

[Landlubber Mike]

Primed, painted, and now adding in the remaining details before weathering and rigging.  I've been very pleased with the details on the PE and resin parts for this kit.  Niko did a really great job with this kit.

Thanks for looking in!

[DocRob]

Great work on that tiny ship, Mike. I can't wait to see, how it interacts with the Walrus.

Cheers Rob 

[CANicoll]

That is an amazing tiny ship!!!

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks guys, really appreciate it!  There's still a lot of goodies to add to the decks.  So far I'm pretty pleased with how it's coming out.

[Landlubber Mike]

I likely won't finish before the GB deadline, but will finish this build log out.  I've made good progress on the Albatross - everything is now installed except for the Walrus (to be seated on the catapult) and the small boats.  I also have two cover options for that entryway into the bowels of the ship where the Walrus and other big items were stored.  I can model it closed or open with the cover pulled back.  I'm considering open just for a little more visual interest.

 

Next up is to clear coat, add a little shadowing/highlighting/weathering, add the remaining items, final clear coat, then rigging (which there is a lot of) and ensign.  This has been a really fun kit of quite an interesting subject.

Thanks for looking in!

[DocRob]

Wow Mike, this little sub project turns into a very detailed gem. Leaving the bay open would for sure look very interesting.

Cheers Rob

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks Rob! 

[Peterpools]

Mike

WOW, the Albatross is so brilliantly done - the detailing is amazing. She is so close to the finish line but it's not that important to cross the line by the end of the week. Just take your time on both kits, the work is extraordinary. 

 

 

[GazzaS]

The ship looks fabulous!

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the kind words.  I've really enjoyed working on the Niko kit.  I'm just about done with it, and will turn back to finish the Walrus. I've been a little stuck on the Walrus as I'm not sure what I want to do with the rigging.  I've got the AIMs pre-made rigging set, or I just might use fishing line.  

Not exactly sure which way I want to go but will probably see what the AIMs set looks like.  It looks like it's stainless PE, so obviously it's more two dimensional with a "flat" side  Does anyone know how the flat side is supposed to be oriented?  Is it facing up/down, or facing out?  My guess is that it faces out given that there are many areas of the rigging where two lines cross each other for an "X" pattern.  It would seem to be much easier to run the lines if they were thus facing outwards so they could fit flush against each other versus trying to run them facing up/down and having to account for the width of the lines.

[DocRob]

On 7/10/2023 at 2:17 PM, Landlubber Mike said:

Not exactly sure which way I want to go but will probably see what the AIMs set looks like.  It looks like it's stainless PE, so obviously it's more two dimensional with a "flat" side  Does anyone know how the flat side is supposed to be oriented?  Is it facing up/down, or facing out?  My guess is that it faces out given that there are many areas of the rigging where two lines cross each other for an "X" pattern.  It would seem to be much easier to run the lines if they were thus facing outwards so they could fit flush against each other versus trying to run them facing up/down and having to account for the width of the lines.

I'm no expert on flat rigging, but I'm pretty sure, the orientation of the wires is in the direction of the airflow, to give maximum stability with minimal drag. Looking at pictures on page one of your thread, seem to underline that, but it' hard to spot.
I never used PE flat rigging, but will do on my 1/72 Gee Bee racer soon. I often read, the problem with PE rigging is temperature driven expansion, which logically increases with the length of the wire. I feel save enough for my 1/72 racer.
PRYM of Germany makes a flat elastic white thread, which could be used as well. I have some, but have to admit, I never used it. If I'm right, EZ-Line also carries flat elastic thread.

Cheers Rob

[HubertB]

The problem with PE flat « rigging » is effectively the thermal expansion differential between the metal and plastic or resin. It’s going to sag at some time in the kit’s life. Even Paul Fisher, who supplies flat PE wires for the Ryan ST-M / PT -20, advises against using it … I ended up using round monofilament, and only the keenest eye will argue it’s the wrong profile.

If you need the structural strength of wires, and therefore monofilament, then round wire is still a better option than flat PE. I have found flat monofilament, which is rarer than a hen’s teeth, but it is so wide that I am not even sure it could be used on the 1/32 Swordfish …

If structural strength is not needed, then Prym or the like can be used …

Hubert

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks @DocRob and @HubertB!  This is really helpful and interesting information.  I'm a bit surprised to learn about the thermal expansion differential issue given the lengths of the wires and typical storing of models in climate controlled environments, but good to know.  I see that Fisher uses what appears to be brass PE.  The AIMS set appears to be stainless steel.  I wonder if there's the same level of thermal expansion differential if you switch to stainless steel.  

Rob, I found some other higher resolution pictures about how the flat wires are oriented, and you are correct - I should have used a little common sense!  Using the AIMS set was giving me a little trepidation as the thicker wires for the wings are probably on the order of 1.5mm (maybe 2mm) in width.  Doesn't sound like much, but if you have to run them laterally and have them but up against each other, you have to make sure that you are properly offsetting the connection points or the wires will either be too far apart causing a gap, or too close together causing the wires to be torqued and bent.  I ran into this issue when I first got back into plastic model planes and started with building the Accurate Miniatures F4B-4 and P-6E.  I used aftermarket stainless steel bracing wires thinking they would make the rigging much easier, but they were a real pain in the ass and I couldn't get them to sit just right - and these were easier in the sense that you just had to glue the end tabs to the connection points, rather than drill mounting holes like I would have to do with the AIMS set.  I'm a little embarrassed to show the picture, but you can see on the front-on view how the wires are bent and look off:

 

Thinking this through, I might try monofilament fishing line.  EZ-Line does indeed have a flat profile, but to the naked eye (at least mine), you can't see it.  I don't think I necessarily need extra structural support, but with monofilament, I should be able to paint the wires which I can't do with EZ-Line.  This would also allow me to build up the wings and engine mount with the rigging prior to painting - if I used the AIMS set or EZ-Line, I'd have to rig after the wings and engine mount were assembled.  I usually prefer to assemble as much as I can before painting to limit touch ups and other clean up.

Have you guys (or anyone else) used steel wire/guitar strings?  I've seen that used in models from 1/32-1/72.  Again, the possibility of the thermal expansion differential, but I've heard of concerns about the long-term life of stretchy products like EZ-Line.

[Landlubber Mike]

I've managed to put together the sub-assemblies for the NeOmega catapult.  Seems like something that should take a day or two, but took me the better part of a week plus!  Part of that involved cutting the resin parts off the plugs and cleaning them up, and part was having to go back to the NeOmega site for clearer pictures.  All that said, the instructions are pretty clear in retrospect and this goes together very nicely.  

You can see in the background the jig I put together as recommended by NeOmega for the rear extension.  At this point, I'm going to rig the cabling and assemble the main frame with the rear extension, add some filler here and there, and the prime the assembly.  I'm having a bit of trouble with the wheels fitting into the combined main frame/rear extension when dry fitting, so I'll probably remove the wheels that will be hidden anyway (someone else seemed to have similar issues).

Thanks for looking in!

[DocRob]

That's a well detailed kit, it seems. Looking very good Mike and will be a showstopper with the Walrus onto it.

Cheers Rob

[KevinM]

That's looking very good Mike can tell no kiddees around.

[Landlubber Mike]

25 minutes ago, DocRob said:

That's a well detailed kit, it seems. Looking very good Mike and will be a showstopper with the Walrus onto it.

Cheers Rob

Thanks!  It's a nicely done accessory, should show off the Walrus nicely if I ever get around to finishing it!

1 minute ago, KevinM said:

That's looking very good Mike can tell no kiddees around.

Ha!  I had all these grand plans, but kids have been home from school for the summer and I've been too busy or tired to do as much modeling as I was thinking I could this month.  But, I treasure every moment I have with them so it's not all bad  

[HubertB]

This is going to look tremendous on the 1/48 deck of the 1/48 Albatros (c’mon, why not a small challenge, now that you have plenty of time 😂 ? )

Hubert