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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

1:24 Grumman F7F Tigercat N7654C


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evening chaps smile.png

 

just a little update as to be honest I haven't got very much done recently!

 

..the objective was to build the Rudder & Elevator trim control unit - it's this box with the wheel on it below...

 

WIP363_zps2sj6esjg.jpg

 

..first up was the wheel itself - I cut a very thin slice from some brass tube of about 7mm diameter and added a plastic card flange to it. Then cut a three spoked bit of brass sheet and punched out a centre cap..

 

WIP364_zpstbtwy00q.jpg

 

..assembled the parts to make the trim wheel..

 

WIP365_zps9uifilr9.jpg

 

...for the control body, I built the shapes onto a length of square stock - this serves as a useful handle until the time comes. The bits are just punched discs and brass sheet again - the forward knurled knob is made from airscale bits of PE...

 

WIP366_zpsvg6vlel7.jpg

 

..aded the part to the side wall and added the torque rods. To support the rods at the rear, I made a small brass sheet bracket - this can't really be seen once it's in place..

 

WIP367_zpsmihbi0jo.jpg

 

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..and here it is dry-fitted, waiting to be hidden by the seat ninja.gif

 

WIP369_zpsatp0dqup.jpg

 

so, one little bit in a few hours modelling - this build may take some time...

 

TTFN
Peter

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Sweet!

Running out of superlatives. 

You'll have to bring this to Telford this year...

 

 

thanks Jeroen - I am sure I will!  smile.png

 

...the next part on the F7F bench is all the control rods underneath the throttle quadrant - they are helpfully picked out in different coulours on this restored bird...

 

WIP378_zpsuvc7q3op.jpg

 

..I made a shaft and many, many tiny cams & lever arms added some tube and banjo fittings for the rods that go upwards to the throttles - these parts were super-tiny and pretty tricky to assemble...

 

WIP370_zpsjaji5krd.jpg

 

..also made up the control rods from albion alloy tubes - crimped & drilled the ends to take tiny rivet fasteners...

 

WIP371_zpsreclrazp.jpg

 

..after assembly I taped the unit to a square to get the control rods straight and make up a bracket to hold them later on...

 

WIP372_zpsqenx4nvg.jpg

 

..and eventually it was complete and ready for fitting...

 

WIP373_zpsypx5baeq.jpg

 

..and fitted into place on the sidewall..

 

WIP374_zpssqjxsm9e.jpg

 

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..and another dry fit to make sure it doesn't foul anything and I can still get all the sub-assemblys in, and out of the cockpit opening...

 

WIP376_zps2wi75n36.jpg

 

WIP377_zpsrqufpvle.jpg

 

..so thats it - about 50 parts in another little bit - at least at this rate in 11,756 days I will have finished...

 

TTFN

Peter

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Peter,

What amazes me is that you seem to get it right in one try. With scratchbuilding you are usually working on the second or third tries to get a good fit without other parts getting in the way.

Mindblowing craftsmanship as always.

Cheers

Cees

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many thanks Cees - it doesn't always work out like that!

 

woohoo!

 

my custom Photo Etch just arrived and I have to say I think it is exquisite smile.png

 

PPD just do amazing things - so in the spirit of the big reveal....

 

..well packed as always...

 

WIP379_zpsotzkfryh.jpg

 

...they helpfully did two copies - one in 8 thou and one in 6 thou brass...

 

WIP380_zpso4dcjgoq.jpg

 

..and the detail is fantastic...

 

WIP381_zpsuf1cldyw.jpg

 

WIP385_zpsvher1rf8.jpg

 

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WIP384_zpsbpsvfjei.jpg

 

..can't wait to get on with it now...

 

TTFN

Peter

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thanks chaps :)

 

so, now I needed to make the throttle quadrant - it's a bunch of complex handles & levers and took some time to mentally dis-assemble into components I could try & recreate...

 

..there are the two main throttles at the top with their 'bullet' like handles, and then a number of other controls (I can't profess to know what they are...)..

 

WIP378_zpsuvc7q3op.jpg

 

..I cut a thin strip of brass to start making up the two lower handles and put a bit of plastic rod in my new dremel to turn the ball-like handles..

 

WIP386_zpsl1y9nlxh.jpg

 

...I made up the others and cut out the first few of the body panels from the PE I had made...

 

WIP387_zpsilrhtfwk.jpg

 

..and started making the first section - the main rod serves as the base for everything else to orient to..

 

WIP388_zpstd3e6w82.jpg

 

..working through the levers...

 

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..also made the throttles by turning some tube in the dremel again..

 

WIP390_zpsgtwf3xab.jpg

 

..the second section only has one canted lever and a different kind of handle...

 

WIP391_zpss2vfnxda.jpg

 

...during assembly - using rods to keep alignment...

 

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..and the finished part - again, a full day's effort at the bench...

 

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..I think I will paint it next as I have had trouble in the past trying to get in all the crevices - I might try the uschi blackening agent I have to turn brass black, but I have never managed to get it to stay on very well..

 

..once painted I can think about hooking it up to it's connector rods etc..

 

TTFN

Peter

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When you decide to make your own watches Peter, I'll have one  :D

 

Amazing detail ! Amazing craftsmanship and, with such great close-ups, it's easy to forget just how small these parts are.  I'm now lost for words.

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It's a joy to watch you build.

 

A few tips on blackening agents, I've used Blacken-It and Caisey's Brass Black. With the latter I have better results. Make sure all the parts are thoroughly degreased by rinsing them an hour in vinegar or an other degreasing solution and clean them with plenty of water. Add a few drops of the blackening agent in distilled water and drop the parts in it. The more you dilute the solution the slower the reaction, but the better the blackened layer will stick to the part. Blacken-It wil give a black/dark brown finish, Caisey's a very dark steel finish. For copper I use Liver of sulphur. Very off topic but this is the result using Casey's: Ships stove

 

Remco

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It's a joy to watch you build.

 

A few tips on blackening agents, I've used Blacken-It and Caisey's Brass Black. With the latter I have better results. Make sure all the parts are thoroughly degreased by rinsing them an hour in vinegar or an other degreasing solution and clean them with plenty of water. Add a few drops of the blackening agent in distilled water and drop the parts in it. The more you dilute the solution the slower the reaction, but the better the blackened layer will stick to the part. Blacken-It wil give a black/dark brown finish, Caisey's a very dark steel finish. For copper I use Liver of sulphur. Very off topic but this is the result using Casey's: Ships stove

 

Remco

 

 

Thanks Remco - great advice - I tried it and had much better & more permanent results. In the end I painted it anyway as it came out a bit of a patchwork as the blackening couldn't get to where there was CA glue... another lesson learnt!

 

thanks also for your kind comments chaps smile.png

 

..had to get a little bit of paint on as it would be too difficult to paint the throttle quadrant in situ..

 

..first I shot alclad in the hope I can chip through the paint down to this later on...

 

WIP396_zpsmgf5mula.jpg

 

WIP397_zps9a9ullgo.jpg

 

...the Tigercat has a green interior below the bottom of the instrument panel, so I shot black uppers - as soon as I had done this I remembered I was going to try out the hairspray thing for chipping - will have to try it on a test part now (probably for the best anyway...)

 

WIP398_zps1rz2ayxn.jpg

 

..then masked the green - I had put maskol on all the control rods as I figured nothing looks better than metal than, well... metal...

 

WIP399_zpsro8w5aau.jpg

 

..and this is the basis for detailing this side..

 

WIP400_zps5mev37zz.jpg

 

..also painted & finished the throttle control...

 

WIP403_zps1bnyn6gz.jpg

 

..it's probably pretty hard to see, but there is a tiny letter 'M' on the reddish brown handles under the silver throttle handles - added this from an old decal I think from a 1/32 Beaufighter stencil.. there is also a 'P' on the rear black knob but that is even harder to see coolio.gif ..

 

WIP404_zpsi6bojann.jpg

 

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..now I can fix it and connect it all up...

 

TTFN

Peter

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evening chaps..

 

I have been tempted by watching some WIPs into trying 3D modelling in Rhino to make some parts that might otherwise be challenging - you can get it on a 90 day free trial from their site. I spent the last week with youtube tutorials and had a 2 hour phone call with my good friend Tim Perry who really helped make sense of some of the things I wanted to do..

 

..it's a lot like modelling in reverse - I seem to make things by taking away bits that don't look like a Tigercat wheel...

 

I am pretty much finished now so here it is...

 

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..and a rendered version to see what it should look like once 'printed'...

 

WIP411_zpsgwwffcow.jpg

 

a very interesting excercise - just got to make sure I still get some bench time in ninja.gif

 

I recommend it - it's certainly got me thinking about how I might develop some new things under the airscale banner..

 

TTFN

Peter

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