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The Great LSM Twins Group Build ends July 3, 2024 ×

1:32 Hasegawa Fw 190-D9


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Hi Everyone, here is my admission into the 1945 group build. Its the 1:32 Hasegawa FW 190d-9 and I'll be finishing it in one of the schemes from the Japo book,  Fw 190d-9 Camouflage and markings Part II. I love the profile artwork in these series, every time I decide on a scheme I flip a couple of pages and change my mind again. This book is pure artistic inspiration for me  :omg: which one do I choose?

I've been wanting to build another D9 for quite a while now so in my spare time I'll be chipping away at this one. 


Anyway, please enjoy the pics and descriptions below.......






I drew the rivet lines on with a graphite pencil first then I used thin strips of Dymo tape as a guide to apply the rivets. 'Rosie the Riveter' was my weapon of choice here, thanks Pete Dorsek of Czech Republic !

In certain areas I used a pin in a pin vice to round out the holes or make the rivets more prominent. Its a slow process and sometimes you make mistakes :popo: but don't worry, any mishaps can be filled with small drops of super glue and accelerator ;)  Then its simply a matter of sanding, polishing and applying the rivets once more.  







I used highly thinned black water colour paint to pop out the rivets and panel lines for the photos.




The circular rivet fasteners on the leading edge were applied with a jewellers beading tool.( See last pic.) A definite 'must have tool' in any serious modellers collection !




We all have aircraft that we would love to see given the big Tamiya treatment, and the Fw 190 d-9 in my choice. Man that would be great, and it sure would save a lot of time adding all those rivets.





Some of the tools of the trade...  :construction:





Thanks for looking and Happy Modelling ! :beer:

Cheers Peter.

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Excellent start, Peter!


I've riveted several complete models, now. I started out using the beading tool and, while I love the results, the time involved and the extra attention required to keep everything lined up really make for a long and laborious project. I've also used a wheel type tool on a couple other projects and it's much faster, but the rivets don't look quite as realistic. Since you've mentioned using both tools on the same plane, I have to ask if the difference between them is really that noticeable? Being a big fan of the Fw 190, I've thought about maybe using the beading tool just on the fuselage and a few other spots that seem to draw more attention, while sticking to the rivet wheel for the longer runs, such as the wings, especially on the underside. Just curious to see how this works for you and if you had any opinions or points that I should watch out for.


Again, great start and I can't wait to see this one progress. Your rivets already look fantastic!



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Thanks John,


Yes the singular round  rivets from a beading tool definitely look more realistic and are of course more accurate but I pretty much use the 'Rosie' cause as you've said, it saves time ! I don't see why you couldn't use both methods on a project.  My only advice would be select a small enough beading tool so it doesn't look to unbalanced  compared to the rivets made with a wheel type tool.


I've used the beading tool to represent the larger circular rivet fasteners as suggested in the  Kagero line drawings. 



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Thanks jim, thanks Mikester, much appreciated !


Thanks Ralph for the inspiration to get my D9 cracking. I should be back in QLD. around January- I should stop in a say G'day if your around



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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi All, I've been a little snowed under lately but I wanted to show a couple of pics even if they aren't all that 'post worthy'. Hopefully they can serve as a bit of a before and after for future posts so you can see the progression a bit better.


I'll be using the Eagle Editions cockpit set and you can see in the pic below that I've removed the molded in seat belt detail in preparation for some HGW belts. These will look much more three dimensional once added. To remove the moulded on detail I used I used a Dremel tool, files and a hobby knife. The dints and scratches were polished out with fine grade sand paper wrapped around a toothpick. I also added a bit of definition to the seat cushions though most of this will be hidden by the seat harness anyway.


 Eagle Editions  provides you with an extra 'blank' seat so you can add your own belt detail but unfortunately I've used this seat in my 1:32 ZM Ta-152.





Some of the kit parts undercoated in Testors Aluminium Plate Buffing Metaliser, this will provide a base coat for some chipping and scratches. I love this stuff, its so ultra smooth !





I base coated the resin cockpit parts in Vallejo primer and when it cured I sprayed the Metaliser over the top. The primer left a bit of a textured surface behind and the Metaliser really highlighted this. This is the reason I don't like  primer and personally I feel its a bit of a wasted step. However, In this case, I had to add it first because I'll need the Metaliser to stick to the resin when I do my chipping technique. Next time I'll just use any colour of Gunze as a base coat instead of a primer.




A few of the resin cockpit and Hasegawa kit parts together.





Thanks for looking, next step painting, hooray !



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Hi Pete, that cockpit is an awesome piece of resin. I nearly ruined a build cause you need to thin the side walls of the kit so much that I nearly went through the plastic to get it to fit. Hope you've done your dry fit and it fits well. Looking forward to seeing some paint.


Cheers Bevan

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Everyone, got a bit of progress done over Christmas holidays so its time for some pics !


First up, the Eagle Editions cockpit. I made my own custom mix of RLM 66 using Tamiya Flat White and Black. For the rear part of the cockpit i used RLM 02  from Gunze. Next the cockpit was sealed with Future and an artist oil wash of Black and Burnt Sienna was applied. Fine details were picked out with Vallejo acrylics and some dry brushing with done with Testers Chrome Silver. The Paint chips were made with my usual method of masking tape and toothpicks revealing the Testors Aluminium Plate Buffing Metalizer base underneath the base colours. For the first time ever I used Vallejo Acrylic flat to finish all the internal parts, :stirthepot:  I quite like this product and I find it to be like an acrylic version of Testers Dullcoat.  :thumbsup2:






Below you can see the rear part of the engine that can be viewed through the wheel bay. I added some fictional plumbing here just to beef up the detail in this area so sorry purists this isn't 100% accurate  but I feel it improves the look of things. :banned:  The electrical wiring came  from an old pair of Qantas headphones.  :ph34r:


Painting and weathering was pretty much the same as mentioned above and I hand painted the 'German style' engine werk numbers with a fine brush and Vallejo acrylics.






The inside forward part of the fuselage can also be seen once finished so I made sure to paint and weather this area. I used a combination of weathering techniques here including pre shading, oils, post shades, consisting of grimy black brown and sand colours and specks and spots using Vallejo acrylics and sponges.









The inside of the gear bay doors.....






Some of the undercarriage parts and the flaps. I'm yet to to add some brake lines and Bare Metal Foil for the oleo strut.






You can see quite a difference in the seat since I made my initial posts in this thread. I've removed the Eagle Edition resin belts and replaced them using a HGW seat belts set. The belts now have a nicer  three dimensional look to them and I really like the way the HGW material bends and flows so naturally. They also takes an oil wash and dry brush rather well  to. :)







Some more cockpit progress pics. I  added some Airscale cockpit placards after the pics were taken...




For the Eagle Edition set you have to cut out the Hasegawa decals and apply them to the instrument faces. :angry:  This took quite a bit of time but they don't look to bad really. Perhaps some Air Scale instrument decals would be better here but unfortunately I didn't have any...





Well, thats it for now. thanks for looking and happy modelling !!!

Till next time,


Peter.   :piliot:



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Hi Everyone, I'm getting closer to the painting stage now and almost all of the rivets are done bar a few touch ups here and there.  The next steps will be the final clean up of seams and rescribing panel lines etc.  I'lI also have to sand and polish the rivets flat, clean out the dust debris with a toothbrush, then apply a base coat of Testors Metaliser. But before I get to far ahead of myself I'll have to sort out the cowl issue..........







I was planning on using Eagle Edition's resin replacement cowl for this project as the shape is a huge improvement over the Hasegawa kit part. However, with respect to Eagle Editions I must say that I do feel a little disappointed in the lack of crispness and definition of the panel lines and rivet fasteners on the part. The fit of the part was also to narrow width ways ( the rear part of the cowl towards the windscreen )  but after bending the part this did improve things a little. Actually, if it wasn't for the lack of panel line definition I'd be prepared to wrestle with the fit but I think I might opt for the quick boost part instead.  Otherwise, the Hasegawa part fits perfectly !


It sure is looking windy in that cockpit !




Well, I'm really looking forward to the painting stage, so I'll see you then.

Till next time,


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I have found that the Eagle Editions replacement engine cowling for the Hasegawa kit was very poor fit too, I abandoned it for my D-13 build as I just could not get a good fit, overall the circumference is smaller than the radiator cowl flaps section and no good way to make it fit, just went with the Hasegawa cowl.

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Yes, it's a bit of a PIA ! :wacko:


I'm still waiting on the Quickboost item in the mail. Judging from Ralph's build it looks like it should be less of a struggle then the Eagle Editions part.

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