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The Great LSP Twins Group Build Starts Jan 24, 2024 - End July 3, 2024 ×

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On 2/23/2018 at 10:18 AM, mikester said:

Excellent, Rick!  I had no idea anyone made resin exhausts for the B model.  Too late now for mine, oh well. :huh:

Hey, Mike.  Time to pull your TRU P40B off the SOD.

On 2/23/2018 at 11:38 AM, DocRob said:

Hi Rick, never tried black primer, but I like what I see from your experiences. Combined with that marbling effect you create a great depth to the following paintjob.
You can hit Homeruns even on Curveballs :D.

Cheers Rob

Yeah, I'm a big fan of black basing.  I will pre shade when I feel the need.  For now black basing works for me.

Back in the day, if I could get a glimpse of the pitchers fingers and seam of the ball I knew what was coming.

On 2/24/2018 at 6:50 PM, kahunaminor said:

Nicely done Rick, 

You’ve had a battle to get here but the result is coming together really nicely.

 

Regards,

 

 

Kahuna,

This has been a battle indeed.  Albeit, I'm savoring each little conquest.  Updates coming soon.

On 3/2/2018 at 9:12 AM, JonathanReed said:

As always Rick!! Always fun watching your builds and details!

 

Cheers Jonathan!

On 3/2/2018 at 10:12 AM, JeroenPeters said:

Very cool. Never built a P40 in my life, but this is tempting!

Would love to see you take on the TRU P40B.  You'd have your way in short order.

22 hours ago, levier said:

Thus was worth the wait... great work.

Thanks Levier.

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  • 2 weeks later...

WHEELS

Recently Roy released his P40B/C resin wheels BR32329.  Color me happy.  The Trumpy wheels are just hideous.  I was going to use Hasegawa's P40 wheels until Barracuda saved the day.  These wheels are also perfect for Special Hobby's P36A.

Here are some comparison images with the kit supplied wheels.

P40_Wheels.04_1.jpg

P40_Wheels.01.jpg

P40_Wheels.02.jpg

P40_Wheels.03.jpg

P40_Wheels.08.jpg

And after a little love.

P40_Wheels.09.jpg

Plumbing and stencils added.

P40_Wheels.02_1.jpg

P40_Wheels.01_1.jpg

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The windscreen handed me many challenges.  Aligning the armor glass provided plenty of angst.  Deciding on the reflector glass yielded a new drama.  At first I was going to drill into the windscreen and mount a scratchbuilt reflector.  My spider sense was tingling with all the armor framing mount molded into the windscreen.  I passed and created a reflector decal with my inkjet printer then secured to a piece of clear stryene and secured with some Future (PMFP)

Not 100% happy with results.  I might try to fit a SH P36A windscreen.  For now I'll take the FICE approach.

P40_Windscreen.02.jpg

P40_Windscreen.03.jpg

Pardon all the dust.

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Determining how to do the prop and prop hub was a selective process.  All natural metal/silver prop?  All black prop?  I poured over many images of P40B and Pearl Harbor P40B's.  It was a mix of many.  Some props were even natural metal/silver with black backs.

Weathering the prop hub was also important.  The Pearl Harbor P40B's were rather clean with maintenance wear and dirt.  Not the weathering/wear you would see on an aircraft as a result of the cadence of war.

P40_Prop.06.jpg

Prop hub is Gunze 69 Off White and prop blades are Gunze Super Metallic 06 Chome Silver.  Weathering (round one) is done with pigments and panel line wash.

P40_Prop.07.jpg

Back of prop blades are MRP Nato Black.  A little bit of Uschi Metal Polishing Powder Chrome Type applied for wear.

P40_Prop.03.jpg

Kit prop decals are beyond unacceptable.  Either too large or weird symbols.   Prop logo decals are Füdekals and the prop stencils are from the Airfix 1:48 P40B.  Very happy with the results.

The prop hub got some more weathering.

P40_Prop.04.jpg

A little more chrome powder on backs of the prop blades.

 

P40_Prop.05.jpg

All good.   Hub detail washed out due to crummy photography.  Next step is to weathering on aircraft.  Home stretch in sight.

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I like that windscreen and I understand why this was frightening to you. I have to check the manual of my P-40 N. That might be a difference maker for me to deciede if that will be my next build. Macroed like this and isolated in front of a plain white background under surgical lights everything tends to look like a big fail. but after assembling normally everything blends in.

Prop and hub look also good, but for my taste, I would have reduced the metallic shine at the tip of the blades a little, like you did fading the black on the backside.

Finishing line ahead :)

Cheers Rob

 

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2 hours ago, DocRob said:

I like that windscreen and I understand why this was frightening to you. I have to check the manual of my P-40 N. That might be a difference maker for me to deciede if that will be my next build. Macroed like this and isolated in front of a plain white background under surgical lights everything tends to look like a big fail. but after assembling normally everything blends in.

Prop and hub look also good, but for my taste, I would have reduced the metallic shine at the tip of the blades a little, like you did fading the black on the backside.

Finishing line ahead :)

Cheers Rob

 

The P40B/C used the N-2A floor mounted gunsight with reflector mounted on windscreen.  Assumption the P40N may have used either N-3A or British 1008 gunsight/reflector mounted on the IP comb.  Great tip on the dulling forward tips of blades.  I'l be applying dull coat in a few days and will have the prop assembly handy.

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I applied weathering based on reference photos of Hawaiian P40's.  Lots of foot traffic on wings at wing root and gun bays.  Hopefully I'll capture the look I want.

P40_Weathering.01_1.jpg

MiG Streaking Grime applied with sponge.  Anxious to see what happens when I apply the Matte varnish.  Some Fuel/Oil stains at the filler caps add seeping through the panel line of the aft cockpit glazing.

P40_Weathering.03.jpg

Streaking grime applied with brush and feathered with soft make-up sponge.

P40_Weathering.04_1.jpg

P40_Weathering.02.jpg

Wheel well aft edges got some love with brush and sponge.  Panel line wash did not deliver the look I wanted.  I might redo.

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While the streaking and grime dries I got to spend some quality time with my Opti-Visor and work on the navigation lights.

P40_Nav_Lights.03.jpg

.5mm holes drilled on back of kit supplied navigation lights.  Luckly the sprue was quite thick and I was able to drill the holes while on the sprue.  After drilling I carefully added paint in the hole with a 0/10 brush.  One of these days I'm going to use blue as the bulb for the starboard light is actually blue and looks green when bulb is on.

After paint dried I carefully scraped excess paint with a sharp blade.  Then with a micro saw each lens was removed from the thick sprue.

P40_Nav_Lights.02.jpg

Painting the reflector base of these lenses presented a masking challenge.  To mask the lenses I pressed each lens into Tacky Putty base side up and applied Alclad Dark Aluminum.   Applying in light layers building up as not to have paint bleed on sides of lens.

P40_Nav_Lights.01.jpg

The white lens does show up. 

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22 hours ago, rkranias said:

Thanks Mike.  Is your P40B on the bench?

Plugging away slowly, I've shifted my focus to repairing three models that were damaged during the move.  Once I get those sorted out and put back together I'll get going on the P-40 again.  Got the BarracudaCast resin wheels and the camo masks in last week so I'm good to go on the parts and stuff.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Aerial rigging is my next step and I opted to get some practice (for future WNW builds) making making my own turnbuckles.  Using Albion 0.5mm Nickel Micro Tubing and Ultra Wire X-Small I made turnbuckles.  A little time consuming but I'm pleased with results.

P40_Rigging.05.jpg

P40_Rigging.06.jpg

P40_Rigging.01.jpg

Nav lights installed.  Drilling a .5mm hole and inserting the turnbuckle is easier than said.  Not as clean as I'd like it.  FICE

P40_Rigging.02.jpg

Much better...

P40_Rigging.03.jpg

EZ Line small is great to work with as it's very forgiving and stretchy too.

P40_Rigging.04.jpg

 

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