James H

1:32 Lozenge, faded and overprinted, and Naval lozenge Wood and Wire Catalogue #: see article for #, links and price Available from Nordland Models We recently took a look at the Fokker D.VII lozenge sets from Old Propeller. These sets are what is described as cookie-cut, meaning the shapes are pre-printed, and just need removing from the decal sheet. If you want to approach your model in the traditional lozenge manner, and lay strips of decal instead of whole pieces, then this is the decal type you've been after. The sets we're looking at today are: D32001, 5 colour upper lozenge with rib tapes (faded and overprint effect), £9.12 D32002, 5 colour lower lozenge with rib tapes (faded and overprint effect), £9.12 D32041, German Naval Lozenge (Brown version), £8.25 These Wood and Wire decal sets are packaged into a resilient clear, re-sealable wallet, and come with a sheet of stiffening card within, and a high quality colour instructions insert to the rear. The 4 and five colour lozenge sheets are NOT base-white, but instead are printed directly to the decal paper, without the while silk-screen inking layer. If you are ordering decals from Old Propeller, this is a highly important factor in your purchase. The base-white decals, having a solid white ink layer underneath the laser printed fabric, means that what you see on the decal sheet is actually what you get in terms of the applied look. From there, you will need to add any shading etc over the top of them. These transparent decals are a different animal. D32001, 5 colour upper lozenge with rib tapes (faded and overprint effect), £9.12 With transparent decals, the laser printer(which cannot print white) has simply printed the fabric pattern to the decal paper. Beyond this pattern, everything else which you will see on your model, pre-decaling, will be seen through the decal itself. Transparent decals mean you need to thoroughly prepare your model for its eventual appearance, BEFORE you decal. This actually has many possibilities that base-white decals don't. After painting your model white, you may decide to add some shading to the wing rib areas, or the fabric edges in between the fuselage formers. You may also decide to add the oil and burnt castor stains to the model before you apply the decal. When the decal is applied over these, these stains will appear more ingrained, organic and very natural. Of course, test your depth of pre-shade and pre-weathering on a scrap piece of plastic first, with a sample of the decal sheet. D32002, 5 colour lower lozenge with rib tapes (faded and overprint effect), £9.12 Each of the lozenge sheets is printed with an exquisite fabric texture, which may or may not be slightly over-stated. Either way, there's no doubt that this looks like a woven and printed fabric cloth, so in that respect, it's mission complete. Compared to the Wingnut Wings lozenge decal, this makes the latter look very drab and monotone indeed. The actual finish too is that of an aged/faded fabric, where the colours have lost a little of their initial vibrancy, and the actual fabric effect is more clearly seen in this respect. The 'overprinted' effect referred to on the description relates to the way that some lozenge panels slightly overlap the next colour. This is exactly how the real fabric was, with the slight tolerances in the printing process causing this same effect. The effect is infinitesimally subtle, but can be seen in you stare for long enough! Each A4 sheet is divided into 4 longwise strips of lozenge fabric, as you would see if unreeled from their spool (bolt). As these were slightly doubled at the joints, before stitching, you might want to check the width if you are a scale freak. You may or may not need to reduce the width by a millimeter either side to represent that surface loss. Naval Lozenge We revert back to base-white for this particular set, with the laser-printed decals being laid over a base of screen-printed white ink. This means that the finish you see on the decal sheet is exactly what you will see after decal application. The lozenge isn't the strange pattern used on standard Idflieg aircraft either, but instead is a more regular, slightly stretched hexagonal shape. The fabric weave seen on this is again excellent, and a little more understated than the regular lozenge sheets. The sheet is also printed as one solid 'mass' of lozenge, with feint horizontal bars which may or may not indicate the edge of that particular fabric roll. Check your reference as I'm not very clued up on Naval lozenge. This set is also described as 'brown version'. This basically means that the colours used seem to have a brownish tint/filter applied to the standard colour. Again, I'm not certain if this is how the material was printed, or perhaps how it eventually looked after exposure to light/salt air etc. Either way, it does look quite superb. Conclusion I wanted to show you something from Old Propeller which was a little more generic for WW1 builder, and this was the result, with the exception of the Naval lozenge which is aimed at a fairly narrow market now. The possibilities with transparent decals are far greater than using base-white ones, but of course, need more discipline in preparation. The overall quality of these sets is everything that we now expect from this relatively new manufacturer, and I don't doubt we'll start to see more models on display stands, finished with this quite extraordinary product. Highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Old Propeller for the review samples used here. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H.

Hey Rosco, welcome to LSM. I do have one comment about your workspace. It's TOO tidy. The best remedy is to open a kit and share it with us

NOW, you are talking! That looks simply astounding......

Superb! Any more like this?

Extremely impressive. Just how do you follow on from this build?

Where am I at with this? Well, the model is mostly assembled, and I've started to prep this for Uschi wood grain decal. For this, a base coat of Gunze Flesh goes down, followed by a thinned black for pre-shade, and Radome for lightening. After this, the whole lot is blended with Radome. More soon!

That looks fantastic stuff, and very natural looking. Do you recommend the Pro-Vitamin B5 hairspray, or would regular Silvikrin be ok? I've got loads left since I lost all my hair.

Another superb 'how to'. Can you tell me how you get that realistic leather effect on the edge of the cockpit exterior?

Bloody hell Peter, you're a brave man. Such great work, and you make it look so easy. I know it's now though

Such a simple idea and I never would have thought of doing it. Thanks for posting this.

The Bradley is one of those armour subjects I really like. I have one of these myself, and perhaps next year, I'll resurrect. Your finish is superb, so I'll be checking into this topic for reference.

PERFECT!

Martin's photos have been immensely useful for my build too. And as for that ugly seam.....you're right, it doesn't exist. Thank God for Meng!

Loving this! This is pure, liquid inspiration.

Thanks for this one Erik. I was wondering what you thought of this title.

Windsock 'World War Centenary' Vol.29, No.5 Albatros Productions Available from Albatros Productions for £7.60 I have to admit that seeing the latest Windsock magazine with the 'World War Centenary' wording next to the title, does make me feel a little more melancholy. It can't be nostalgia, as of course, I wasn't around during that conflict, but for many years I have had an interest in this period, and indeed met people with a direct link to the Great War. Now, we have no veterans left. The 'war to end all wars' has silently slipped into the history books as another episode for which we have to relate to books and old cine-footage to be able to comprehend. Featured on the cover of this issue is David Coulthard's post war conversion of the Wingnut Wings DH.9a 'Ninak', resplendent in a gorgeous silver-doped finish. Inside the front cover we have the Reader's Gallery and Frontline News. The Gallery in this issue is a single page instead of the doubles I've seen more recently, but features some fabulous modelling in the form of the Wingnut Wings Junkers J.1 and Pfalz D.IIIa. It's the end of an era (although we may see more in future) for the Lance Krieg 'Modelling Master Class' series. I've really enjoyed this aspect of Windsock, since we received the first review copies, and I've already built up a library of excellent modelling tips which will be invaluable for my full transition into WW1. I've always known there has been a scratch-builder within me, kicking and screaming to get out. This month's master class focuses on finishes and markings and their application. Lozenge application options are discussed, as is decal application and bare metal finishes. Weathering is also touched upon too, with many aspects of this 'science' being taken in hand and explained. The whole section is lavishly illustrated with superb, colour images, annotated for clarity. The real good news is that there is an intention to create a modelling-special from Lance's fine work. When that time comes, we hope to be able to bring you a thorough review. This month's featured aircraft is the Aviatic 30.24 experimental Austro-Hungarian triplane fighter. I admit to not knowing of this type, but would be naïve to think that the only triplane protagonists were Fokker and Sopwith. This particular machine certainly isn't as pretty as the usual suspects, but certainly creates an interesting article, complete with numerous period images and some 1:72 profile line drawings. Great War Paint again features the SE.5a, in the second part of this particular feature. If you thought there were some outrageous schemes with the last issue, then these put them to shade, with some of the most attractive British colours I've seen on an aircraft of this period. How about a red machine, with a Nazi swastika on the tail? I'm serious! The subject of colour is always a contentious one for any WW1 modeller. Anyone who knows anything about the subject will tell you that trying to decipher the colour spectrum from old period photos isn't an exact science. Some colour frequencies are so close as to be indeterminable, and some historians still argue over this subject. If this wasn't enough, 'Coloured Thinking', focusing on the minutiae of aircraft appearance from castor staining and repairs, to the divots, dents and scratches which can be seen in period images, and how the applied colours have suffered whilst in service. For the purist, this subject is a seriously contentious subject, and it's interesting to read an insight into this world. Enter at your peril, but don't ever stop trying to achieve your own version of perfection. A show report for the IPMS convention in Colorado is given, with some model images, and Kitbag Classics looks at a classic Fokker D.VII kit from Renwal, first tooled in 1966. Of course, it would be positively rude not to look at the cover aircraft in more detail, and this is exactly what we have here with some close-ups and in-construction images. A link is also given to the WW1 Aircraft Modelling forum, so you can see the build log for yourself. Since this model was started, and indeed finished, WNW have already now shown that they will eventually release a post-war Ninak. Don't you just hate it when you convert a model, and that happens! On the Transfer List looks at the latest decal releases for our hobby, and Kitbag takes a look at the latest kit releases, unsurprisingly. Accessories aren't forgotten too, with new releases from Taurus and Modelkasten looked at. The Figuratively Speaking section takes a quick peek into the world of figure accessories for your dioramas and vignettes. Again, Modelkasten is the company releasing items this month. Whilst we don't have a letters section this month, you can console yourself with the rather amazing images on the rear cover. These depict a reproduction Rumpler C.IV under construction. I hope that Windsock bring us more images of this as it progresses. The work looks gorgeous. Conclusion There is never a disappointment when the latest Windsock magazine arrives. Without exception, they are, for me, the single most interesting publication for our hobby. Ray Rimell is one of our most knowledgeable figures in the WW1 aviation genre, and a great modeller too. His professionalism and enthusiasm is written through each journal as clearly as any project within. Again, another issue you simply have to go and buy. Even better, treat yourself to a subscription. NB. From 2014, Windsock is becoming a quarterly publication again, with of course, a reduced annual subscription charge. Go treat yourself... Very highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to Ray Rimell at Albatros Productions for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link.

Hi! Despite the world conspiring against me this last couple of weeks, I finally managed to lay paint for the cockpit parts, and get to the point where I'm almost ready to seal this baby up. THAT is my favourite part. The cockpit floor is done with Uschi wood grain decal, with the trap doors layered twice to give a richer appearance. Everything has been washed, matted and dry-brushed etc. For the first time, I got the hairspray technique to work too, and did the fuel tank with this. You won't see any of this when sealed up, but at least I did it! The interior walls were given a mottle effect with Tamiya pastels, and castor staining with Mig Oil & Grease wash. To apply to the proper area, I marked the location of the the frame vertical posts, and added the oil up against this, as you see in photos. I toned the oil/grease down with more pastel. I've already rigged the interior, but those shots, along with installed seatbelts, will be next.

I've seen some pretty horrific WW1 era diorama images, with skeletons in mud etc. What offends one may not necessarily offend another. Offense is of course subjective, but this one, to me at least, looks quite tasteful and just depicts the horror of what confronted these soldiers, having seen a new weapon of war.

Francisco, those are just beautiful, and your review is extremely good. Thanks for taking time out to do this, and sharing your thoughts. I wish I could figure paint...

...a group build of '1'.

I think January 1st 2014. I need to finish up a couple of things before then.

I promise more images tomorrow. See...now I have to.

I likes...I do. I have that chipping solution, but fund out the hard way that you need to spray onto a matt surface, so I resorted to actual hairspray for the E.IV fuel tank.

I wish this could be downloaded properly. It's a great resource.

I knew that pit was small, but for it to do that, it must be great on long missions.