Clunkmeister

Phil I think it’s just a fluke of the exchange rate. But it certainly works out in our favour

Carl, and I always heard English was har to learn! Yikes!

Awesome news Rog! Here in the USA, we need to order ours from Hannants or similar, as Squadron somehow set the domestic price Nationwide at $250.00. Hannants allows us to land them at our door for about $175.00. Iain’s wing fix is brilliant, and once I’ve finished the Lancastrian and B-36, I’ll certainly give it a go. There have been several truly monumental builds from the box stock kit, which gives me hope.

Shouldn’t that depression continue right to the rear cockpit bulkhead in some form? I’m no Hellcat expert, but it seems to me if you sanded the bulge down to soften that bulge, then combine it with judicious use of paint shading, it would go a long, long way toward eliminating it.

Truly brilliant work so far. Looking great, Ron. Just amazing!

I finally pulled out the carpet from my building area and laid down some wood flooring. Then, I affixed a clear plexi office mat over the wood so my chair would roll. All mighty high tech, but... plastic shavings and bits of ends of sprues seem to magically sneak under the clear plexi, helping camouflage and wayward small part. It’s an evil plot against my waning bit of remaining sanity, I fear.

Dale did you try multiple applications of Micro Sol? Personally, I’m scared stiff of Mark softener. I’ve had great success with multiple applications of Micro Sol. Especially if you can get the stuff under the decal as well. It’s all I use these days.

But back to the serious topic at hand. For those who know, is there any reason why Huihuang keeps two separate trade names? I see little to no real differentiation between the two. The B-24 was a Grail kit of mine, so with the obvious let down, it just seems so “Trumpeter” to me, if that makes sense. But I’m going to build one or two, guaranteed, and take a stab at Iain Ogilvie’s brilliant repair if it pans out.

If it wasn’t for the very real fear of wrecking a promising build at the last second, performing the multitude of little details necessary to bring the model to the next level is extremely enjoyable. Thanks for looking.

Just found some of the little things that need doing. A dorsal rotating beacon carved to shape and painted. And running some some brake lines so the darn thing can stop.

Despite the obvious comedy here, my question was semi serious, because I didn't honestly know. We have all the stuff in the news these days about “Wah Way” and it spells nothing like it sounds to a halfwit Yank like me. Im now just nicely understanding Korean pronunciations...

Hehehe. I know. I asked it in all seriousness, but with a wee bit of biting my lower lip to keep the incipient smile at bay. But remember Rog, we can’t benupright and serious 100% of the time.

Dennis, that’s pretty darn close to what we have in the pic, isn’t it.

OK, is that name read “Wee Wang”? I’m not up on my Chinese pronunciation.

In 100% agreement. From the first cut it starts. Doesn’t stop till it’s on the shelf. My first attempt wasn’t pretty. Livable, but the road was full of potholes and ruts

I have them both. They’re both decent enough kits, and I’d rate them similarly with the SH getting the edge due to surface detail. The SH has much more AM available thanks to the Czechs, but until the SH kit arrived, everyone raved about the PCM. It was the hottest ticket in town and perpetually sold out. I’ve had plenty of opportunity to sell my PCM kit, and for some decent money too, and won’t ever do so. My opinion, and this is an opinion only, is that the PCM kit is less fiddly to build, because it’s simpler with less resin, etc. plenty of people have had fit issues with the SH kit But, if you throw the full bucket of skill and AM at the SH kit, you’ll end up with a slightly more accurate and detailed model. Along with the Czech resin available, remember that Barracuda makes stuff that’ll work on either kit. This is a personal opinion only.

Agreed. You know if they’re doing the Dr.1, they’ll be doing it correctly, with differences between batches that we had no idea existed.

KC’s ok. But Little Feat, that’s what it’s all about.

Eastern, Western, Braniff, just to name three

Yeah, I hit you where it hurt, you nail me to the wall. As long as it’s not Santa Ana or my ex Wife’s urine, I’m good with it. L M A O!

Phil, look on the bright side. At least it’s not cancelled due to the airline going broke. That’s happened to more than a few folks over the years.

This is shaping up into a righteous build. I’m watching as well. The kit calls out to me at times, but I banished it to the barn. For now.

Oooh tools in the house! YESS!!! Last week I was caught red handed building an old Carter WCFB on the kitchen table. Wife walked it two hours into a supposed day long trip, claiming she felt crappy. Her juices started flowing right there and then, I’ll admit. I have a big flat board with Emory cloth attached to it that I use for planing the mating surfaces on the old castings, and she caught me right at the worst time. It’d have been less severe if I had been caught airbrushing there

Thanks Phil, and will do. What I NEED to do is figure out those cheek arrays. They’re not correct for this ship and so for neith Jeff or I have found decent useable pics of them. There’s plenty of pics, but the problem I that they throw shadows onto the surface and confuse the person trying to model them. It’s semi irritating. Some RCAF Daks used the same style