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Clunkmeister

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Everything posted by Clunkmeister

  1. Yep. I made the huge mistake of attempting to cut and lower the center flap on my -5 kit. I was going for the full meal deal: opened aux intake doors, ALL flaps dropped, and the canopy slid back for the spooled jp on the cat look. I found the Mother of All Air Bubbles in there. A bit, no, ALOT of creative reassembly followed. No muss, no fuss, but after that, it still sits on the SOD.
  2. That’s a nice touch. All in all, the kit looks like a gem with a few VERY minor issues easily fixed by someone experienced enough to tackle a ZM kit.
  3. Nice parking job. It sure would free up a lot of room on the ramp.
  4. I believe that we all just need to bear in mind the limitations of plastic injection molding. I understand exactly what they were trying to do, and it makes perfect sense, but it fell slightly short. Not badly, just a bit. The good news being that’s an easy clean up and fix. I doubt Tamiya will do any better than this, to be honest. They may simplify stuff, but theirs will miss the mark in a spot or two as well.
  5. I wish everyone could get one, but LSM ain’t that flush yet. 🤣
  6. Determining the winner was extremely scientific. I had all the kids on our street over yesterday afternoon, and showed them the pictures. The results were: KevinM’s ICM 111 with 2 votes. Dick Clark’s Zvesda BTR with 2 votes. PeterPools Embraer with 1 vote Martin’s MiG-29 with 1 vote Carl’s ICM Cobra with 1 vote. So a tie, on to round 2….. By a vote of 4-3, KevinM is the winner, as chosen by pre teen Texas kids. KevinM wins his choice of: ZM Bf-109, or the limited edition ZM F-4 Kai. Either version of the F-4 Kai can be chosen. Model will come direct from SB, or if out of stock, from an alternate source. We’ll do it again in a month, guys, and thanks for participating.
  7. It is, but it’s a kit you need to be careful with. If you can build a wooden ship, you can build the Walrus. It’s a gorgeous model.
  8. That’s an interesting way of putting it but oh so true and spoken like a true Brit and I LOVE IT! I blew coffee out all over my keyboard
  9. Carl, the little nubbie hanging off the landing gear attach point looks like an injector nubbie that needs to be rubbed out by judicial use of force, Semtex, or sprue nippers, your choice. 😎😚
  10. I can go back for you I’d you wish, but then my name will be tagged at the bottom and I’d prefer not to look like I was messing with your text. That’s how rumors get started.
  11. Great start, Bill. Gaz’s trailblazing will certainly help all of us. I’ll be following along with this as well
  12. Gas, I built two Ta-152s of theirs, and learned much in the first build. The first one had been started when I got it, and I had multitudes of issues with the wing roots not fitting correctly aLong with exaggerated wing root detail, etc,.. much like you’re seeing here. So this one can be chalked up to styrene molding tech limitations? I’m inclined to say so here. Those tailplane fillets could have looked gorgeous in thin brass sheet, but no kitmakers could ever do that. Resin? Maybe, but it’d be crazy fragile. As for the engine and cowl fit, I had the same issues on my first 152, but worse. All previous builds pointed out a small filler piece behind the prop that wasn’t angled correctly and I concentrated on getting that absolutely perfect. Which meant cutting out the engine and reimagining the engine mounts. It got pretty ugly under that hood, exacerbated by having to remember that the rear engine and accessory drive protrude into the gear wells and are plainly visible for all to see. The surface repairs and describing took longer than the majority of the build. Forewarned and forearmed, the second built was dry fitted so many times I probably “built” it 20 times, and in the end, lo and behold, it fit perfectly. The thing that grated on me was fit the life of me, I couldn’t figure out what I did wrong. Maybe, if you’re going to close the thing up anyway, refrain from engine paint? Nevertheless, you’re doing a fabulous job here, showcasing what we need to watch for a d plan ahead go to. Great build thread so far.
  13. Hmmm. Im an unqualified observer here simply because I know so very little about the type. I have great respect for Radu’s talent not only as a researcher and model designer, but also as a genuinely decent, respectful, and all around good guy. He’s the best there is, folks. And I’m pretty good at some stuff too and tend to hold my own when questioned, just like Radu. My personal opinion is that there are serious limits to what even the most careful IM procedures can achieve, and ZM has done some seriously brilliant kits throughout their relatively short life. Maybe a bridge too far here? Who knows. But what I DO know is that Radu is correct, as the stabilizer needs to change incidence as the pilot adjusts his trim wheel, but Martin is also right in that the pictures show no gap, because at the distances we view from, the gap would be invisible to the human eye. Let’s face it, the designers at Messerschmitt were, by that time, trying to eke every last knot they could out of an obsolete airframe, and extra tight tolerances would be expected. Maybe tighter as the war dragged on and Germany was harder pressed to produce much needed equipment? Who knows. Messerschmitt engineers have long since passed away so we can’t ask. But an untouched original Czech built 109 variant doesn’t lie, and neither do period photos at exact angles to showcase any gap. Personally, I’m just happy to have a 109 that’s had Radu do the design work. We all knew months ahead of time that no matter how good it was, a 109 will always come out of the box with SOME perceived error. Never has there been a more closely studied aircraft. In watching the various builds take place on here and elsewhere, I’ll be inclined to figure out some way of eliminating the complete engine from inside the cowl, IF it continues to be an issue with all builds. My .02 only. Marring is one of the most gifted model builders I know, and by far, the most in depth research guy I know, and Radu matches Martin in research and is simply put the reigning King of kit designers in my opinion.
  14. I like to come unglue on people too, in my mind, but then I just start laughing when I can’t keep a straight face. I always start laughing when I say “twatwaffle”
  15. That HPH Walrus is a TOUGH build. I’d be careful of getting carried away in the wireless room, because after super detailing it, the lower wing support wire cuts right through the middle of it all. Drat! (OK, Ernie made a funny) hopefully SOMEBODY gets the joke There is also absolutely no jig included to align the engine and upper wing. The instructions give the angles, but you need to build a jig of your own design. Not tough for a ship modeler, but for someone who builds nothing but Trumpeter, Tamiya, and Hasegawa, they WILL have an issue
  16. Nice review, Carl! Exactly what I had in mind! Maybe check for a few typos in your text. It looks like you’re the victim of autocorrect. I started to, but after one, I figured I didn’t want to screw with your text.
  17. Nice finish, Jani! Beautiful! You’re the main reason I extended it until September end. Be sure to post it in already a for a inspection, and I’ll post it on our Facebook page! Thank You! Ernie
  18. One of the other reasons I like the occasional GB is because we’re a laid back, easy going, friendly place with little to absolutely no drama. And, due to that, we’re slowly growing. That’s an awesome thing. We’ve added a couple more Mods (the most boring job in the world, here) and with the extra help, we can better work through any editing y’all need done. I think an occasional GB we’ll help give us all a bit of friendly competition as we have fun. We all just keep on doing what we’re doing, and it’ll be great. This place is a labor of love for all of us, and I think the Wet GB will be fun. Refresh my memory… Dec 1 start, right? I’m an old man with a great, but short, memory
  19. Rob, when I put out the idea of the All of Ukrainian GB, one of the biggest complaints here was that they never ended. Matter of fact, there was an ongoing GB here for about 4 years that was long since null and void and I just took it upon myself to mercifully end it. I’ve extended the Ukraine GB because we had a couple latecomers, but it’s ending in 3 days and someone’s getting a new model out of it. I’m hoping to have one good GB per year. LSM is a well attended site now, and an interesting topic that gives everyone a chance to express themselves is important to me. I have to continually remind myself that we are not just an aircraft site. We have numerous armor builders as well, as well as a growing cadre of ship builders. The more the merrier, in my books. If you EVER feel a GB has lingered too long, please say something. In retrospect, maybe I should have closed Ukraine last month, but we did get two high quality finishes since, so it worked out.
  20. Awesome work, Carl! I bought out all the Voodoo Grey I could find when MM went down. Are there other sources for it now, or just the old MM? I’ve heard that some sell a grey called ADC Grey, which is supposedly close to the Voodoo Grey.
  21. A great build, Scott! Truly awesome. are you good with this going up on our FB Page?
  22. She looks gorgeous, Scott. Dang! It’s actually a decent little kit, as long as you pay attention to what you’re doing, and test fit everything first. It’s a kit that should have sold thousands more units, but just didn’t..
  23. No I haven’t actually. English Color is literally 3 blocks from my shop so PPG is right around the corner. I had a guy try to sell me on Tamco, especially their DTA primer, but I’ve always saw Tamco as marine paint. For a casual painter like me, it’s nice to have a product line that you know works. I’m to the point now where I really don’t want to beat myself up doing it, but again, if you want it done right, do it yourself. Running a buffer is just a bad byproduct of knowing it’s right, I guess.
  24. For white finishes, I’ve alwzys thought you can’t beat Tamiya white primer, or even white Gunze Mr.Surfacer 1000. Just apply 2 or three light coats, let it dry for a day, the rub buff it with a soft cotton cloth. IMHO, it’s 100x better than trying to deal with white paint, so unless you’re aiming for effects paint, primer is all you need.
  25. That’s exactly why I’m glad I wasn’t painting cars back in the old RM Miracryl enamel days. For part time hobby painters like myself, I just LOVE my PPG. DP90 might be stupid expensive, but to me, it’s the car equivalent of Mr Leveling Thinner. It’s saved my ass so many times it ain’t funny. Then PPG base/clear right over the sealer. I love the stuff. At any point when I get my inevitable once per job sag, I can just stop, let it flash, the feather it out and continue along as if nothing happened. Now my only real issues are cleanliness and guessing right for my reducer. I’m doing a color change on my 55 Sunliner, have it lifted off the frame and starting with the underbody, then jambs, floor, and inside engine compartment so I can remember and relearn my techniques. The less I need to use that bloody buffer, the happier I am. Love painting, but your wife is like mine. She comes to the shop, sees me head to toe in dust, looking like a chimney sweep, and says “what are you doing out here, it looks the same as it did last month”. It’s a good thing I really, really love her.
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