efrick

Oh, the miracle that is the internet. From the Wikipedia article on the Do 335: "French ace Pierre Clostermann claimed the first Allied combat encounter with a Pfeil in April 1945. In his book The Big Show (pages 273-274) he describes leading a flight of four Hawker Tempests from No. 3 Squadron RAF over northern Germany, when he intercepted a lone Do 335 flying at maximum speed at treetop level. Detecting the British aircraft, the German pilot reversed course to evade. Despite the Tempest's considerable low altitude speed, the RAF fighters were not able to catch up or even get into firing position". I still believe that I have read a slightly different (perhaps embellished) version of this encounter that involved the German pilot giving the Allied pilots a friendly wave before pulling away.

Erik, I am not sure of any confirmed combat encounters. I do however seem to remember once reading of an encounter between an Alled pilot (flying either a Tempest or Typhoon, can't remember which) who flew close to a 335 because he wanted to identify just what it was he was looking at. The German pilot waved at him...and easily pulled away. With the 335 having a top speed of nearly 475 mph, I suppose this tale is quite plausible.

Great review! I am all in on this one. I've been fascinated by the 335 since I was a child. If I am performing my calculations correctly, it will fit into my largest display cabinet (just). From the review pics, there is a LOT to like about the kit and the engineering HK put into it. On first glance, the best thing to my eye is the instrument panel. Apparently, it is one of those affairs in which you sandwich a clear film and instrument decal behind the panel. I (personally) find that arrangement to be very convincing, especially in 32nd scale kits. Regards, Ed

Hi Steve, The sum of my knowledge of modern armored vehicles is near zero (and mostly based on the M-1s and lighter vehicles I see roll through here via railroad flatcar a few times a year), but the finish on this is just stunning. Beautifully done!

Superb detail work on the engine plumbing (and everything else!)

BEAUTIFUL work!

Beautiful camo and weathering, and I love all the plumbing/wiring on the engines and in the wheel wells. I have always been fascinated by the 262, and your build of it is a pleasure to look at!

Looking good Arno! All the plumbing on the engine is convincing! The cockpit is lovely as well...I really like the leather effect you achieved on the headrest and cushion on the seat.

Very nice work, Arno! I love the mottling and weathering. I am still looking for the cockpit fit issue but I have not as yet spotted it.

Just stunning...museum-quality!

"Attended the Atlanta Model Show 2014 today and had a super time and only spent $20.00!!" Whenever I attend a show, I usually put 20 or 30 dollars in my wallet, and leave the debit/credit cards in the car or at home. It is a technique that protects me from myself (since myself has an unfortunate tendency toward impulse purchases). Great photos Ralph! Thanks for posting...very inspirational stuff!

Hi Gus, Here is a YouTube review of the paint booth that I bought a few years back. I have been very happy with it. You can also by two and set them up side-by-side for larger projects. Best of all, it is comparatively inexpensive; I have seen them priced as low as $65.00 US; the reviewer mentions that he has seen them on Amazon for as low as $45.00. The filters are also easy to find but you can also find the same filter material at your local hardware store and cut it to fit. For a bit of perspective, here is the link to a photo of mine in my closet, er, I mean workshop: http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/efrick12/20130728_184247_zpsf15fa70d.jpg Regards, Ed

Beautiful work!

Hey Ralph! I really, really love Tamiya acrylics (and Gunze aqueous, if you can find it). I have recently discovered that Tamiya acrylics spray beautifully when thinned with Gunze "Mr. Color Levelling Thinner". Some find the odor of the Gunze thinner a bit much though; Tamiya sprays well with their own thinner as well. In a pinch, I have also used 91% alcohol with a drop or two of acrylic retarder added in. The biggest problem with Tamiya acrylics, IMHO, is that they (usually) are not direct matches for RLM colors and require a bit of mixing. One exception seems to be their "German Grey", which appears to be a close match to RLM 66. On the other hand, their "RLM Grey" is NOT a particularly close match to RLM 02 (by itself, anyway...it needs mixing). Many folks simply use XF-23 straight from the bottle as a match for RLM 65, but this seems a bit too blue to me; I use the mix below. As for specific mixes, I snagged this from "another site". I have used a number of the mixes delineated here, and they certainly look the part (to my eye): RLM 02 Grau Interior colour, also used as overall colour on prototypes XF22:1 + XF49:1 RLM 61 Dunkelbraun Pre-war splinter scheme X09+black RLM 62 Grün Pre-war splinter scheme XF65 RLM 63 Hellgrau Pre-war splinter scheme. Also used for overall schemes. Some sources claim that this and RLM 02 are the same colour XF25 RLM 65 Hellblau Lower surfaces XF23:1 + XF2:1 RLM 70 Schwartzgrun Wartime splinter scheme XF62:1 + XF49:1 (XF27, XF13) RLM 71 Dunkelgrun Wartime splinter scheme XF62:1 + XF49:1 RLM 74 Graugrün Top camouflage on fighter aircraft from 1941. Also referred to as Dunkelgrau. XF24:3 + XF27:2 RLM 75 Grauviolett Top camouflage on fighter aircraft from 1941. Also referred to as Mittelgrau. XF24:5 + XF50:1 RLM 76 Lichtblau Lower surfaces on fighter a/c. Also used extensively for night fighters. XF2:7 + XF23:1 + XF66:2 RLM 79 Sandbraun Mediterranean scheme XF59:3 + XF64:1 RLM 80 Olivegrün Blotches in mediterranean scheme XF58 RLM 81 Braunviolett Late-war topside camouflage XF51:1 + XF64:2 RLM 82 Lichtgrün Late-war topside camouflage. Often confused with 83 XF5 or XF5:1 + XF2:1 or XF5:1 +XF3:1 RLM 83 Dunkelgrün Late-war topside camouflage. Often confused with 82 XF61 or XF24:1 + XF51:1 Light Green-Grey Used towards end of the war on lower surfaces of fighter a/c XF21 The RLM color match discussion is ongoing...and legendary I just go with what "looks right". Regards and good luck with the new airbrush! Ed

I somehow mangaged to miss following this build until now. You have outdone yourself yet again...and once more I thank you for sharing your painting techniques/ mix ratios, etc. I am (shamelessly) copying your techniques on my own current build. Just...superb! My collection of "How to Build the ______________" books are gathering more and more dust on the shelves...who needs 'em with this sort of material/inspiration? Regards, Ed

Hi John, You have chosen an incredibly interesting subject! I REALLY like what you have done with the cockpit so far. I don't have the Revell 109 yet but am looking forward to building it. Regards, Ed

Hey Folks! Thanks for all the kind words! As is often the case, life intervened over the weekend but I did get some of the decals on last night. I was rather pleasantly surprised by the kit decals (so far). The upper wing crosses were thin, almost to the point of fragility. I did have a minor nervous fit (a "come apart" as we say here in the South) when appling Micro-Sol; the crosses drew themselves up into wrinkled messes that I thought could not POSSIBLY settle back down onto the surface. But, rather remarkably, they did snuggle down beautifully, to the point that the carrier film is now (almost) invisible, having quite literally melted into the Future gloss coat. To address a few previous comments... "Nice painting skills there. Was the tail wheel strut that tall on that model 109?" Yes, a very rare field modification, never photographed but alleged for years. With steel in short supply but toothpicks plentiful and classified as a non-strategic material, this seemed a logical solution at the time. However, the toothpicks were unable to withstand the rigors of improvised Eastern front airffields and this modification soon fell into disfavor. "Good looking paintwork!! Love the bit of patchiness in the colors. Brings life to those drab camouflage colors!" I (shamelessly) copied the brilliant technique delineated at the link below. It does indeed make the camo much, much more visually interesting and also captures the inconsistent application of paint captured in many photos of Luftwaffe aircraft, particularly mid - to - late war. Many many thanks to Rieser for sharing the technique via the build- in - progress tutorial! http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/1215-fw190-a8r2black-8-11jg3/page-2 I (plan) to get a bit more decaling done this week. Regards, Ed

Beautiful work, and an absolutely ingenious use of putty for the wiring harnesses. Bravo!

Evening All, I have 'edited" the mottling, and I think it now bears a much closer resemblance to the reference profile. I have also applied a bit of Tamiya "Smoke" around the exhaust/wing root, although I will need to enhance that a bit more, perhaps with a mix of thinned black and brown Tamiya paint. I have also done a bit of post-shading on the panel lines. I have also laid down a coat of Future. A wash in the panel lines and decals are next up on the agenda, hopefully tomorrow night or Friday. Thanks for looking,and of course as always comments welcome!!

You have absolutely nailed the reverse mottling. This is just stunning overall. AND I'll add another 'thank you" for sharing your paint formulas/mixes! Regards, Ed

"The hub swirl was a pain to apply. Buckets of Micro Sol needed to get it half right". I ALWAYS have trouble with those, and always have to slather on setting solution. GREAT build so far...can't wait to see the finished product! Ed

Wow Guy! Amazing work so far! You have made the interior look convincingly "busy", and the paint work/weathering is top notch! The cockpit is my favorite part of an aircraft build. Keep 'em coming! Ed

Hi Ralph, Yet another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin. I generally use good ol' Elmer's White Glue for clear parts, and "Super Glue"-type cyanoacrylates for PE (Paulster mentioned Future to affix PE, which I want to try as well). I also use Tenax on occasion, but to be honest I only use it on nice days when I can go outside to apply it...the vapors give me a raging headache, and even my spray booth doesn't pull all the odor of it out. For applying the Tamiya cement along long seams, I use a "Touch-n-Flow" applicator. If I was ever told I could only keep one tool in my workshop, this would likely be it. http://www.micromark.com/touch-n-flow-applicator,7841.html Regards, Ed

Hi Aaron, Exceptional work on the cockpit! My vote would be for "+ 4", the tulip-nosed (possibly) JG 52 machine with the "RLM 84" fuselage. Regards, Ed

Amazing stuff Rick. The engine alone is a museum piece.