efrick

Thanks Guys!

Hey Folks, This is my first completion of 2015. I started this kit in October of last year. I found this one a bit of a mixed bag. The overall fit is quite good, although the fit of the clear parts (especially the nose glazing) left a bit to be desired. The actual quality of the clear bits is less than stellar, but a dip in Future makes them passable. Finally, the decals were nothing short of awful. Quite honestly, I am amazed that there was no silvering, especially on the national insignia. I suspect that the "final assault" with "Mr. Mark Softer" is what turned the tide, finally making the decals a bit "melty" and allowing them to adhere and snuggle down. Micro-Sol had little, if any, effect on them. The only markings that defeated me were the spinner spirals. No amount of effort or solvent would get them in place. I would suggest one of the after-market decal sets if you are going to do one of these. Some of the attachment points on the smaller parts are a bit fiddly, but in 1/72 that is to be expected. The "Fritz X" missiles are quite nice, being little kits unto themselves. I made a tremendous capitol investment ($0.50!) in some white poster board, but am still using my somewhat awful phone camera to take pics. Let me know what you think!

Another brilliant piece of work Ralph. Your work, as always, both inspires and humbles.

Happy, Happy Birthday!!!!

Many Happy Returns Ralph!!

I honestly believe that this is one of the most convincing winter whitewash schemes I have ever seen.

Hi Rick, I recently had a similar problem, though not with EagleCal. I suspect the offending spots may disappear under a subsequent glosscoat. Barring that, if you have some Gunze "Mr. Mark Softer" laying about, you could try putting down a small puddle of it on the surface of the kit, then float the decal onto the puddle. After a moment, tamp the decal down gently, THEN slather on some Micro-Sol. The "Mr. Mark Softer" seems to make tougher, noncompliant decals slightly "melty" without having them turn a shapeless puddle of wrinkled ooze. It also seems to break the will, so to speak, of a defiant decal, and allow the Micro-Sol to actually melt the decal onto the surface. I normally am not a big fan of "Mr. Mark Softer" as I have had a couple of "Decal Armageddon" events with it. However for tougher decals that dont seem to want to adhere of "snuggle down" into panel lines, it seems to do the trick. Oddly (for me at least) it is Hasegawa decals that "Mr. Mark Softer" seems to obliterate. Regards, Ed

That is just a knockout Bevan! I love Doras, and you really did this one justice.

Thanks Paul! I'll give the degreaser a try.

Amazing build Jeroen! (I really love that Chesterfield piece you have in the photo above as well! )

Beautiful work! The tracks are truly amazing!

Nice! Great wood grain effect on the floor!

Hey Paul! Let me know how the Magnasonic cleaner works out for you! I'll try the degreaser you mentioned! I always use the Iwata lube after cleaning. I tried another brand called "RegDab" (I think) but I didn't care for it; it tended to get sticky and "gunky" after application. Regards, Ed

That is just excellent! Your weathering around the wing roots, and the underside, is superb.

Very, very nicely done! Bravo!

Thanks Trigger! Unfortunately Tikopur seems to be available "only in the EU". I am doing a bit of sleuthing, though, to see if there is an equivalent product here on this side of the pond.

After a further bit of research/Googling it does indeed seem the general consensus is that soaking an airbrush in an ammonia-based cleaner of any sort is NOT a good idea, as Paulster pointed out. It seems something such as Medea airbrush cleaner concentrate would be a better choice.

Hmmm...I'll rethink using Windex. Perhaps just a water/alcohol mix...or just warm soapy water.

I only use acrylics, so Windex did the trick for me!

Morning all, After noticing a gradual deterioration in airbrush performance (even after total disassembly/cleaning) I decided to give an ultrasonic cleaner a whirl. A couple of very good videos on Youtube helped convince me that this was the best way to truly "deep-clean" an airbrush. I ordered the "Magnasonic" cleaner from Amazon (quite a deal at $39.99) and it arrived yesterday. I mixed a 50/50 solution of Windex and warm water, disassembled my Iwata HP-CS, and threw it all in for an 8 minute high-frequency bath. Even though the airbrush was "clean" (I thought), I was astonished at the result. A couple of minutes in, numerous "mounds" of fine, sedimentary debris began gathering on the floor of the tank. A good deal of this appeared to have come from the nozzle (which, again, I thought was squeaky clean to begin with). After rinsing the airbrush parts in water, I lubed up the needle and reassembled the airbrush. The whole "feel" of the trigger is noticably different; it's no longer "mushy" and "sticky" but instead smooth. I haven't actually tried running paint through it yet but I am pretty certain there will be a noticeable improvement. I then threw my old single-action Paasche in the tank. I'm not sure where it was all hiding, but a big clump of gunk and sediment came out of it's nozzle as well. The model that I purchased is shown. A cheaper version (which doesn't have time settings) is also available, and likely works just as well. If you don't have one of these babies, GET ONE!!!

Amazing as always James! Great to see the 335 next to the 234, not only for dimensional comparison but a fascinating "what-if" scenario as well!

WOW! This is all just amazing, Jan! The overall effect is superb; the engine and cockpit work are inspiring!

Nice work Ralph! The wood grain is completely convincing, and the rigging is excellent!

John, I know little or nothing of aircraft from this era but that is a stunner!

Beautifully done! You have captured the sun-beaten look of a desert 109 to perfection! Those seat harnesses are REALLY nice as well. Regards, Ed