lawman56

Never would have thought to use orange. I think I learn something everytime I log in.

Fascinating. I thought, but didn't want to say 'wing warper' because I wasn't sure. The fact that anybody would conceive of such an idea is mind-numbing!

I usually pride myself on paying attention to detail, however I have a habit of being humbled once in awhile. Which is good, since it keeps my head from becoming "Zepplin-like". While admiring all the great Eindeckers since the build started, I just now realized I see no flaps! No flaps, no ailerons, no elevators. Not even a trim tab! What I did notice, is an interesting looking curve to the wing, an odd place to locate a pulley, and what appears to be a major pivot point where the wing would normally be attached to the fuselage. Am I correct in assuming that the wings themselves were the control surfaces? That by moving the stick, the commands would travel via wire, through that oddly located pulley, and pitching the entire wing into the proper degree of inclination or declination?

Welcome to the forums Carl! And what a great way to say hello! Your work is not only fantastic, but fascinating as well. It's always interesting to see how others work in various mediums. I especially like the creativity used in creating the Vickers cooling jackets! I'm also a firm believer in clearing the mind before working. It helps me to stay focused once I start. I'm looking forward to see how this progresses.

I think you'll be pleased with it. I found the trigger set up to be less taxing on my hands than the top button, but I've been using sidearms my whole life, between my military service, my work, and recreation, so I'm used to that type of hand posture.

Even though I'm not building one, nor do I have plans to, my inquisitive mind will not rest until I figure this out! Although, if you look at the picture, the track links seem to curve properly around both sprocket and idler, but on the idler side, it almost appears as if the lowest link is at 90 degrees to the one above it. Is it possible that the tracks were run onto some sort of flat support? Something akin to PSP or Marsden matting, that would have pre-corresponding holes for the turnbuckles? I can understand, (mechanically), how the road wheels could have tension or slack added or removed, This could be either hydraulic or through the use of grease, or even air. That 90 degree track link, though, that I'm curious about......

I love how you replicated the aluminum on the cowl!

Very nice work!

Beautiful work! I have to agree with you about the OD/NG finish, Tom. It just "looks right". I have yet to start mine, but at least I've got the display part taken care of. My garage is in the construction stages of becomiing my "man cave". Besides housing my workbench and various shelves, it will also house my HO model railroad. While planning the layout, I've designed an area under it that will be display shelves for my aircraft. They'll be deep enough to house this beast and the B-25H. I agree with the weathering. I think it looks just right. Used, yet well maintained. Love the subtle color shifts in your OD!

I use enamels only. Humbrol and Model Master. I've had no problems at all in my Grex. Actually, less than I had with my Badger.

I know the feeling. I made it my birthday present, and promised her the same amount in clothing. That worked for me.

I was mistaken. I have the Grex Tritium TG, not the XT. The TG is top fed, as opposed to side. The plus, for me, is when you remove the paint cup, the feed port is exposed, which allows you to put a few drops of paint in it for a quick color burst. I use that feature when painting propeller blade tips. 2-3 drops of yellow is all I need and I don't dirty a cup. It also has magnetic tips, so you can do a quick change from wide to fine. The XT was one I had considered, until shown the Tritium. http://www.dickblick.com/products/grex-tritium-airbrush-sets/

Hi, I used a Badger 150, until it finally wore out 2 years ago. Instead of rebuilding it, I did a little shopping and ended up purchasing the Grex XT for $250. I absolutely love it! Not only is it great for all work, to include fine line detail, but the cleaning is remarkably simple. Unless you plan to store it, you run thinner through it until it comes out clear. That's it. I've only tore mine down to clean it once since I've owned it, and I use it at least weekly. I've found, by practicing with trigger pull, I can do exactly what I used to do with my Badger, but without changing needles or adjusting air flow. Everyone has there own opinion, but to pick up one for just over $100 is hard to turn down.

Just a brief update. I've figured out what and how to re-start my Alby, so tomorrow, (after picking up some supplies), I should be back on it. In the meantime, I've been trying my hand at carving my own props. After 4 failed attempts, I think I've got it. Not well enough to put one on my own bird, mind you, but well enough to use as background fodder in my diorama. I have built a small workshop facade to pose my Albatros in front of, and up until my prop carving, I had no idea what kind of repairs would be done at said shop. Problem solved! For the record, when attempting to carve the graded twist in a laminated block, it's best NOT to use a chisel blade....

Looks very well done. Not sure why, but I've always thought the Stuka was an interesting looking bird. You've done it real justice, especially your weathering. Used, but not abused.

I might be wrong, but I believe I read somewhere that in transport, or travelling, mode, the tracks are slackened and then raised off the ground by using turnbuckles attached to the hull.I would assume that's after it's been attached to it's rail bogies to keep the track from dragging.

Thanks Tom, I'll search the net at work today as well. Especially now that you gave me so much info to play with. For some strange reason, I seem to recall the name "Reluctant Dragon", but it may be either a B-24 or B-25 I've seen wearing it. Although it is possible the name went with the pilot, if he had been re-assigned from another group. Then again, I look at so many period aircraft pictures, there's no telling what I may have seen it on!

Thanks for the tips. I'll check the block numbers tomorrow and see what pops up. 234, eh? I had no idea that many were made with both features. If I recall, you posted once that, with a few exceptions, most of the interior of the NMF birds had painted internal framework, but the interior skin was NMF, so I've been thinking of playing with some foil in and around the nose area. I've heard the same thing about Alclad, and since I already know how to airbrush, the learniing curve will be less steep.

I don't think they make an AM metal barrel. Just go down to a gun store and purchase a barrel for a .22 cal rifle!

I was aware, but only because I was reading your answers on the "other forum", before it got crazy. I've been following Tom's fantastic work with Skipper, which I had thought about doing as well, but he beat me to it! Do you happen to know, off-hand, what the other OD tail number or name was? I may take a look at that one as well. Again, I still haven't made a decision yet as to what I plan to do. I might be wrong, but I believe if I was to re-align the waist windows, as Nigel has done, wouldn't I also have to rebuild the tail turret? I thought all the staggared window birds were also equipped with the "Cheyenne" type turret. That would also open Pandora's box, as then the tail gunners windows would have to be rebuilt, as would the tail under the rudder, etc.... Of course, if I decide to stick with NMF, then my next conundrum will be Alclad vs foil!

Addition? Don't you mean a scale rail spur to park it on??? I've always wanted to see one built, now I'll get to!

Thanks guys, @Nigel, I've been floating around different sites, looking to see what's available. I also have a young lady co-worker who is a fantastic artist, and it just so happens she loves to draw pin-ups. If need be, I can have her draw me something real, or ficticious and have it printed. Thanks to your simple re-fit of the waist window, I have even more options now! @Tim, I wish it was simple as narrowing it down to a particular BG! My question was less about the quality or quantity of decals, but more of a curiousity as to whether or not anyone is actually doing Milk Wagon. I'm caught as to do the B-17 in NMF and make her "Milk Wagen", or modify the window and do any number of OD aircraft. Since I like to do the unique, I may just stick with Milk Wagon.

I'm about to start doing my research leading up to the build of my HK B-17G, and have been gleaning as much info as I can from all the other B-17 builds here. I'm curious though, has anyone decided to actually use the kit decals and build "Milk Wagon"? Personally, I like unique nose art, and it certainly fits the bill. That being said, I still don't know which scheme I'll end up doing, and probably won't until just before I get ready to start the build.

Question for you Kevin, did you know your workbench is featured on Pintrest under "Rocketfin Hobbies"? I saw it yesterday while scrolling through. I knew it was yours, not only because of the type of bench, but the "Top Secret" green splotches....lol

Honestly, I like to lean towards the somewhat obscure and different. The subdued look to the mouth in the G9/JM bird catches my eye. Subtle, yet mean looking.