Peterpools Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Nick Thank you for the detailing the chipping process as the weathering effects are spot on. Keep ‘em comin Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 Chipping! so hairspray and everything above was done Sunday, and chipping done Monday afternoon. I have found that when I left it 24hrs or so I got better control - you can of course chip pretty much straight after the MRP goes down but the delay helps (I have found) go from micro chips up, rather than having the odd larger one suddenly appear. MRP **will** chip many weeks after btw the brushes I use are just snipped off knackered old ones; I have also used a fibre pen thingy but find they can be too abrasive so be careful key is patience and good light, and keep turning you head / the model to check what is happening because even under magnification you mag find you have actually started chipping - sometimes even larger ones - without them catching the light anyway the pictures are presented in order to show some progression I suggest doing some one side, step back and see what you think , and then do the other side, and if you want more then return to the first etc, but of course there’s no ‘right’ way to do this 9 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazzaS Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Very nice results from your hairspray chipping. Thank you for the tutorial. It is very useful to know that MRP will continue to chip days later. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Nick Chipping looks so realistic - way to go Keep ‘em comin Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 30, 2021 Author Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) Not sure how well these pics show it as the iPhone struggles with the extreme brightness of my lamps but I revisited the port side chipping with the aim of increasing coverage and size of chips I also did some leading edge chipping - outboard of the guns I purposely chipped a very large (unrealistic) section as this will go under the yellow strip ie be chipped again. Edited June 30, 2021 by nmayhew Removed blurry pic 8 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Nick Weathering and chipping on the wing walks look spot on the money Keep 'em comin Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 10, 2021 Author Share Posted July 10, 2021 Progress has been slow recently but here is where we are at the moment… To recap these are the main colours used topside, where I did some extra blending so it looks like this - I must learn to take pics with my iPad because the phone ones make the colours look a bit funky / erratic… And then did some work on the undersides which, if you recall were not Azure but painted in the US as their version of Sky RLM76 *very* rough marbling first, and then some template work with RLM02… the areas of more solid blue / grey on wing leading edges and around the gun bay doors (which hinged and dropped down on the real thing) were given a quick shot of hairspray and to give me the option of doing some chipping later (not sure if I will). that’s all for now. cheers, Nick 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazzaS Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 I really like how your preshading adds interest to the surfaces. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 Aces on the weathering - looking so good Keep ‘em comin Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harv Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 Oh I love this !!.....harv 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Great preshading technique and camo scheme Nick! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 So the underside is pretty much done - at least pre weathering! - and it was achieved by successive mottling with these 2 colours: It looks a bit too marbled for some people’s tastes, but I quite like it, and it provides enough interest that further weathering with oils is not imperative if one is looking for a less complicated finish. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 And just quickly before I go ‘up the wooden hill to Bedfordshire’, here’s the first markings masked… all sooo simple with MRP! I tried something new here by providing a dark but not black base of grey with some NATO black through an airbrush template also I find it more interesting to use an off white (or even light grey) instead of a pure white… All this done back to back to back with only the time it takes to clear the airbrush and change paints between colours… I’ll show how I did the roundels tomorrow, as I know some people think the full 4 colour roundel can be a bit daunting. 8 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinM Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 How do you lay down your paint ?I mentioned before it looks like the technique of many individual dots and most of the paint jobs I like are in that method.I have tried it but it works the finger and hand for me. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 6 hours ago, KevinM said: How do you lay down your paint ?I mentioned before it looks like the technique of many individual dots and most of the paint jobs I like are in that method.I have tried it but it works the finger and hand for me. hi Kevin, it depends what i am doing... for priming I use MS1500 (for all other airbrushing i use MRP exclusively), i try to make long strokes that finish off the model - rather than do a 180 on the edge where that part essentially ends up getting more paint for large priming areas i use my PS-290 trigger action with 0.5mm needle - it's a f*cking beast! for quick jobs where i am priming add-on parts, cockpit etc, i will use my H&S Evolution with 0.2mm needle (it's a good decent all round brush); primer is usually thinned 1 primer to 3(ish) Mr Levelling Thinner ('MLT') and sprayed at about 18psi - i don't have a digital read out and just eyeball the gauge. i am spraying from no more than 2 inches away - i see videos where stuff is being hosed on from the next village away and cringe! for initial marble coat, i am not too 'careful', and although this stage might be tedious it can also be used as 'free practice' for mottling and the like - if you goof and put too much paint down and get a spider, it's no biggie etc when using the airbrush template again it's just point and shoot basic blend coat / coverage i often thin the paint even more (it comes ready to paint) with some MLT, but this is in no way a prerequisite; pressure is usually a bit lower - say 15 psi; spraying closer now - maybe an inch or so? for mottling or fine detail work, i will usually thin; Mr Rapid Thinner ('MRT') can be helpful here, but i have also used MLT; pressure is somewhere towards 10-12psi maybe, and i am VERY close to the surface for all my blend and mottling i use the PS-771 with 0.18mm needle - it is head and shoulders the best brush i have used, and as a benchmark, is a significant upgrade on my Evolution, which previously i thought was very very good hope this helps Nick 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 So here is how I did the fuselage roundels… First up (and sorry no pic of this) I use a couple of strips to criss cross the roundel and overlap on to the masking surround - this enables you to lift the surround and the roundel *in one go* and place on to the model. This is probably the most tricky bit - it can be fiddly to get it all to come up together, but with a little patience and practice you will come to master it very quickly I think. Placing the mask and surround on the model can also be tricky - and this is why vinyl based masks are better (for this) than Tamika tape type masks where you just can’t see through enough to know where it’s going with any accuracy Once the mask and surround is down, mask around the area as you see fit to avoid overspray, then using your criss-cross bits of tape remove the entire mask from the surround and place on its original backing i then put down a mid grey base - in this case RAF Extra Dark Sea Grey - and then airbrush template with some NATO Black; a sort of half way house black base if you will, and one that’s useful if painting a marking which overlaps camo demarcations Then i put the entire mask back on the kit…the reason for this is that when it comes to removing and putting back various sections, if the whole mask is on the kit you have a natural way to line everything up; if you try to eyeball putting sections in and taking them off one by one it will be a nightmare First up was the blue ring - this was removed and placed on the backing… then RAF Marking Blue mottled in for a gradual build up of colour; the pic below is just before i started spraying the blue (i forgot to take one immediately after)… Then put the blue ring back on, and remove the white one… i wanted to make sure the white looked uneven / had some variation to it… if you lay down too much paint you lose that white ring goes back on so it looked like this… then it was the red centre dot which if did it again i might do first just to get it out of the way - at this point i was itching to finish! and finally i removed the yellow ring and laid down some MRP Marking Yellow i took some in progress shots of this because I wanted to show you how i am specifically *not* trying to get even coverage / even colour outcomes… After first mottling passes… Then some more… And the finished article… Next up will be to replicate the Middlestone overspray - that will be tomorrow i think 7 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazzaS Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Holy moley... that's some awesome roundel painting! Great lesson. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Beautiful and consistent paintjob. I specially like, how you integrated the roundels. I used marbling techniques as well on some projects, but did the marbling, spraying through a metallic sponge for pot cleaning, randomly. With the sponge, there is no risk, of color running under the mask and the pattern is very random, when you move the sponge while spraying. Cheers Rob 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 2 hours ago, GazzaS said: Holy moley... that's some awesome roundel painting! Great lesson. thank you - my pleasure i did the step by step thing also to show people how easy it is with decent masks and decent paint, there is no reason why anyone couldn't do this (or better) to emphasize, it's done one colour after the other with no breaks at all - i'm only pausing to change colours in the airbrush - that gives you more than enough time for the MRP to dry N 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 Nick Terrific masking and paint work. Thank you for the tutorial Keep ‘em comin Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 On holiday at moment so not modelling but i do have a few updates on what i did just before i left… In summary, it was make some changes, and then finding out about 2 seconds later that i had done it wrong! firstly, i did the middlestone overspray which i had thought was clearly visible on the port side, and i also did some educated guesswork for the starboard side Hopefully the pics are fairly self explanatory at this stage i was quite pleased with how it looked 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinM Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 Had to go back to post#1 but got it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 So pretty much as soon as I had finished spraying the middlestone, i received an email from a researcher and expert and desert P-40s who confirmed that the Barracuda analysis / take on things was actually incorrect - isn’t that always the way?! after analysing better copies of the existing photos and with some modern picture editing wizardry, i was able to clearly see that there was in fact no overspray but there was a different portion of the roundel (on both sides) which was painted when the aircraft was still in pieces that was covered up by the wing fillet after re-assembly. so…luckily i kept the masks and their surrounds so a little re-touching was required Without seeing the surrounding colours sometimes it is difficult to get a proper feel for how much paint you have laid down and unfortunately i think i will have to do another pass when i get back from hols here is where we are at the moment 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterpools Posted July 24, 2021 Share Posted July 24, 2021 NIck WOW, Correcting the corrections but in the end, your cammo and markings are right on the money and look terrific.- so very well done. Keep 'em comin Peter 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 sorry for the lack of updates over the last week or so - been away on hols and also waiting for some masks to be re-cut for the shark mouth and upper wing roundels anyway, there has been some progress... underwing roundels now on - I haven't done a step by step simply because there's nothing inherently new from the fuselage roundel process and then fuselage codes - these are in white which i think offers a nice contrast on desert schemes once again dark colour applied first to help get some depth and variation... and then using MRP Clear Doped Linen - it's a subtle creamy off white so after a few passes and some squiggling, here is what we have and as you may have noticed in the above i also retouched the yellow in the roundels (same done on both sides) - i wasn't happy that i had enough coverage on the part the i resprayed whether this is correcting the correction to the correction to the correction, I will let Peter confirm once the fuselage codes were done, it was time to add the serial which on the port side was left on the original dark green, so this needed to be added first i used the decal to get a feel for how much i would need to mask off - it's just resting there in the pic below then used blu tack worms for the surround... and sprayed some dark green in the box... i goofed up the A a bit - my fault in not taking care of the transfer of the mask in the same way that i normally would with roundels - very sloppy! and here is the other side which is over the dark earth so no repaint needed next update will be the yellow wing leading edges which will have some very light chipping - I'll do that later / tomorrow hopefully thanks for looking Nick 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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