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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

1/16 "she's real fine my 359" big Pete


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What do I think??...................... hhhmmm..................... first off the rendering is very cool, I always LOVE a short hood Pete, and I LOVE the color scheme, the stripes, look everything Peterbilt.............. yup looks great to me.... I'd drive that

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Hey guys 

  Here are some more pictures for yous to look at.

20210623_175935.jpgthis view shows the 3D printed air cleaners.

20210623_180129.jpganother view of the air cleaners.

20210623_180307.jpgthis view shows the engine, I modified the turbo intake and exhaust manifold and custom made air intake rubber elbows to look more like a big cam set up.

20210623_180242.jpgthis view shows the fan belts that I made from 1.5mm diameter rubber tubing.

20210623_180728.jpgthis view shows the wires from the starter to the alternator l.

20210623_180708.jpgthis view shows the wires from the alternator to the starter.

20210623_180810.jpgthis view shows Mr. Bruder working on the engine...lol. well that's it for now be back soon with more.

Ron G 

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Hey guys 

  I've been working on the big Pete. I've started on plumbing the brakes and the air bags, I also added the missing panard/sway bars and brackets to tge rear axles.

20210625_174227.jpgthis view shows the scratch  built front quick release valve for the front brakes, also you can see the passenger front brake line.

20210625_174325.jpgthis view shows the front drive side brake line. These are braided stainless steel lines.

20210625_174828.jpgthis view shows the scratch built front rear wheel lock control modulator valve. You can also see the scratch built front rear axle panard bar.

20210625_175148.jpgthis view shows the scratch built rear wheel lock control modulator valve and rear panard bar.

20210625_175122.jpganother view of the rear panard bar setup.

20210625_175101.jpgthis view shows the scratch built combination quick release/double check valve and front axle panard bar setup.

20210625_175036.jpgthis view shows both of the panard bars. All of the valves are for the air brake system and need to be plumbed.

20210625_174252.jpgthis view shows the shift control lines and valves that I added to the transmission.

20210625_174347.jpgthis view shows the transmission lines and you can just see the start I made on the power steering lines I added to the power steering reservoir (I need to paint it black)

20210625_173630.jpgthis view shows the 3D printed air cleaners temporarily mounted. I had to shorten them 3 scale inches, they were 36" long and should have been 33" long.

20210625_173711.jpgthis view shows the cut out to the sleeper (this is closed up in the kit).  You can also see the air cleaners.

20210625_173809.jpgview from the top showing the air cleaners. Well that's it for now be back with more updates soon.

Ron G 

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Hey guys 

  Small update, I did some work on the big Pete's grill shell. I carved out the cast in grill detail and added a screen mesh to the rear.

20210626_161143.jpgthis view shows the grill after I modified it and added the stainless steel mesh. I will be painting this like dull polished aluminum. (It's a work truck)

20210626_161126.jpgclose up view of the stainless steel mesh grill. This is temporarily assembled, I will be refining it later.

Ron G 

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The caging bolts should be removed from each brake pot, as caging bolts are for 'caging' the brakes, meaning they will compress the spring inside the brake pot ( actual technical term is 'spring brake ) Caging bolts are ONLY used to release the brakes manually when  they cannot be released by the air system.... as in for towing etc, when the engine and compressor are not functional... so in short, NO caging bolts should be used unless the air brake system is needed to be used manually to release the brakes, IF the caging bolts are used, the brake on that wheel is 'out of service' and that is not permissible due to DOT regulations. As I'm sure you and others are aware, the diaphragm inside the spring brake pot is what holds the brakes OFF, and it is the spring inside the pot that engages the brakes, so if there is a low air or no air, the spring takes over and locks the brakes up, in order to release the brake in that scenario, the spring must be compressed, and that is what the caging bolt does, one must manually insert the caging bolt into the center of the spring brake pot and crank it dwn with a 3/4 inch wrench, once that is done the brake is no longer operable, and needs to be taken to the shop.  So , if it were me, I would snip all the extending bolts off all spring brake pots.....

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Hey all 

  I have the brakes plumbed, But I still have a few lines left to do. I made air pressure gauges for the rear air tanks. I used some gauge decals and photo etch bezels from Airscale to create them. I also painted the shocks yellow and added some Monroe logos to them.

20210627_181541.jpgthis view shows the line from the front brakes to the right rear air tank.

20210627_181518.jpgthis view shows the air line, on the left, from the drivers side wet tank to the passenger side supply tank.

20210627_181234.jpgthis view shows the air lines from the passenger side front air tank to the left side rear air tank.

20210627_181247.jpgthis view shows the air line from the air chambers to the control valves.

20210627_181422.jpgview from the other side.

20210627_181352.jpganother view of the air lines.

20210627_151527.jpgthis view shows the air gauge for the rear air tanks on the top and the items I used to create them. There's one for each rear air tank.

20210627_132501.jpgthis view shows the front and rear shocks painted with logos added.

20210627_132435.jpg

this view shows a closer view of the logo. I made these from printed images scaled to fit and covered with clear tape, then I individually cut out each one then added them to the shocks. I wish I had decals but I couldn't find any anywhere. I also added some bolts to the top and bottom of the shocks, but I didn't get pictures of them.

  Well that's it for now be back with more updates soon.

Ron G 

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Thanks guys 

 OK! the brakes and air bag plumbing is DONE! The brakes went pretty good, but the air bags were a real f#%*n pain in the but! I had to drill out some Meng 1.8mm bolt heads so I could use them as fittings (I ran out of my Detail Masters aluminum ones). I only needed 17 of them, but I end up drilling out twice as many because I was a real fumble finger modeller today! I guess I'm getting old, because I kept dropping my nuts...lol. I bet I dropped at least 20 of them lost and gone to the carpet monster.:censored::wallbash:

  I think the chassis is ready for paint. I'll have to check tomorrow and make sure I have everything done that needs to be done on the frame before I paint.

20210628_164054.jpgthis view shows the rear height control valve and some of the plumbing for the air suspension.

20210628_163847.jpgthis view shows the front height control valve and some more plumbing.

20210628_164011.jpgview from the bottom showing the brake lines.

20210628_163946.jpgbottom view of the front.

20210628_170427.jpgthis view shows the air suspension plumbing.

20210628_170433.jpgthis view shows some more plumbing.

20210628_170514.jpghey, it's almost a rolling chassis!

20210628_165812.jpgjust a picture of what it will look like. I'm making custom fuel tanks for it. They will be made from 1 1/4" PVC pipe with PVC dome caps for the ends, I'll show pictures tomorrow.

20210628_165934.jpgview from the front. Well that's it for now be back with more soon.

Ron G 

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