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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Fw190 A8/R2"Black 8", 11./JG.3


rieser

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Mr. Ralph, I've always been an admirer of your paint jobs, like the astounding French Spitfire IX 1/32, and this is no exception. So I ask, not to criticize, but to learn: How to remove the leaks in the paint that appeared under the masks as the "8" and the swastika? By retouching the paint with a brush, I suppose. Or masking and retouching with the airbrush?

 

My question is because I will use paint masks in my Dora for the 1st time, and I wish to know how to obtain a perfect paint job.

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cheers Jamme.

 

Brad:  now there's one I've been missing for years.  Will certainly attend to that faux pas on the next 190 build.

 

Paulo:  the French one seems a long time ago now.  I try to avoid the leaks by doing the following:

Handle the masks gently and try to apply them with a light touch until they are in position.

Burnish down the edges and if possible use a fingernail to squeeze them into any panel lines.

I prefer to use flat acrylic paints thinned with around 70% with lacquer thinner.

Check the edges again before starting to spray.

I spray at about 20psi pressure because my airbrush doesn't work well below that (too much spatter), and from directly in front of the mask as much as possible.

 

One of the most important things is to be gentle when handling the masks.  Try to get them onto the model "relaxed"  - so they lie naturally.  l always find somewhere that needs small touchups.  These are usually done with Vallejo acrylic paints.  Leakage into the panel lines is the most common.  I think this is due to the relatively high air pressure.  The other challenge comes when removing/replacing mask segments - especially ones like the circles in the "8".  This can require some patience, and there are no guarentees.  I can offer is take your time and be prepared for some minor touchups at the end.  It gets easier the more times you use them.  Cheers!  Ralph.

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Thanks a lot for your lessons. This Dora will be my first try to made a complex assembly. I wish to do a good job, and with your comments, it will be a lot easier.

I will continue to follow your topic, so I think that I will learn a lot more.

Thanks, again, Paulo.

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You're most welcome paulo - yell any time.

 

Dave:; i understand that Middle Middel Earth is a challenging language.  Stunning Bledesloe show yesterday!

 

Cheers, repeater - hope there was something useful in the pics.

 

Dry-fitted the undercarriage this morning and noticed something odd about the fit of the retraction mechanism arm that attaches to the wheel well.  Too short.  Anyoine else noticed this before?

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Playing around with Maru Technics "Easy Mud", thinned Vallejo acrylics, and a 2B graphite pencil...

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Thansk for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Ralph, just checked my D9 build again (in daylight) and has the same problem, but there is no hole for them to locate into anyway!!

Im guessing this is the same for all Hasegawa 190's. Pretty sure my A8 is the same also.

 

Looks like a positive start to the weathering process to follow. I like the muddy filth so far. Did you apply it by sponge or brush? The cowl looks ok as well.

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Yep...

Ralph, just checked my D9 build again (in daylight) and has the same problem, but there is no hole for them to locate into anyway!!
Im guessing this is the same for all Hasegawa 190's. Pretty sure my A8 is the same also.

'Fraid it is Fellas.

 

The Aires correction set shown is a little more detailed, and better highlights the area concerned. The Aires-supplied Jack arm is the same length as Hasegawa's, but is a separate piece and fits to the undercarriage a little bit closer to the aircraft centre, and slots into the attachment point in the corner. But the Hasegawa error isn't too visible though.

 

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j437/Wumm/Fw190_wells4_zpsa1a055c7.jpg

 

S

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Ralph, I have studied the hasegawa parts and some drawings and photos of the gear strut. And I wish to suggest one thing to you. And if you create the link in the edge of the actuator(the "u" piece), who conects them to the gear housing, who are missing in the hasegawa part, you could fill the gap and even made the piece to be more accurate.

 

30b.jpg

 

30c.jpg

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Beven, Steve, Paulo:  many thanks for the feedback/info.  Very much appreciated.

 

Erik:  sorry - don't know enough about the undercarriage length.  I have seen a build where the modeller revised the tail wheel so that it sat deeper in the fuselage.  Again - don't know enough about that mod either.

 

Cheers, Ralph.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Some underside weathering...

 

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... with one of AK Interacitve's marine greys - thinking that it might work with lightish underside aircraft colours...

 

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... a bit slower to apply when compared with the sludge wash styles...

 

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... left for 20 minutes...

 

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... buffed off with cotton buds and paper towel - no signs of staining...

 

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... colour might be a tad strong straight from the bottle...

 

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... tried adding some depth here and there with these guys...

 

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.. certainly can take a while - could go on for days doing this stuff.

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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A lovely underside wash there Ralph...

 

Thought I might add a reference shot for the 30mm cannon fairings. This is from the first production A6/R2, but as the majority if not all R2 variants through to the A8 were manufactured by Fieseler this is probably typical.

 

Fw190_R24_zps068ff648.jpg

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Cheers Gents.  Steve:  many thanks for the pic - much apppreciated.  Will help to add the MK 103 bits when the time comes.

 

Tried adding the AK enamel washes to the topside colours.  The Engine Grime to the cowl and grey-violet bits, and the marine grey to the grey-green bits - followed by a lighty misting fo Testors Dullcote.  The Engine Grime on the colw bits and the grey on the grey-green bits pretty-much disappeared.  No real idea why - never happens in the magazine builds or on the marketing DVDs - must be operator error.  Then tried drybrushing Vallejo's Light grey over the grey-green bits as a quick way to move on. 

 

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Thanks again for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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  • 2 weeks later...

She's done...

 

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First GB for me - very enjoyable experience.  Thanks for all the interest, tips and info along the way - very much appreciated.  Looking forward to seeing how the other 190's turn out.  Cheers, Ralph.

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