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rieser

Fw190 A8/R2"Black 8", 11./JG.3

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The fit there is what killed my A-8 sadly.  I ended up tearing it off completely and am now trying to repair the damage for a second attempt.  Looks like you are on the right track with it now!

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 Awesome! I will keep an eye on that area when I hit it.

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I thought this might be of interest, I found this the other day and nabbed it ... 

 

 

2943c63f-7a6f-4d23-a75f-d24304e249f0_zps

 

 

Plus 3 others .. I thought they might look good mounted on a model base.

 

 

95caed3e-0a7b-47dc-b233-70d77f66a0cd_zps

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Great pins Grant - not seen such things before.

 

Some Tamiya XF-80 Royal Light Grey undercoat to hide the construction sins, followed by a few "RLM76" shades mixed from of Gunze's H417 RLM76, Tamiya's XF1 Flat White and XF-23 Light Blue.  All cut with lacquer thinner but left to dry for 2 weeks to be safe. 

 

1AS_zpsebb429af.jpg

"RLM75" started with squiggles of XF-77 IJN Grey (Sasebo Arsenal)...

 

2AS_zpsff799a6e.jpg

 

3AS_zpsf6a73630.jpg

 

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... then filled lightly with a 9:1 mix of Gunze H69 RLM75 and H49 Purple...

 

5AS_zpsf43c28c3.jpg

 

6AS_zps975c3691.jpg

 

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... and finished with a 1:3 mix of XF-77 and H69/H49.

 

8AS_zps3d73366f.jpg

Underside insignia painted using a couple of shades of faded black based on Tamiya's XF-85 Rubber Black and XF-63 German Grey, masks from Mal Mayfield.

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Hi Ralph.

I really like the way you did the start of the camo, that's just amazing.

What Airbrush do you use?

Thank you for the answer.

Cheers,

Jamme

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Jamme:  I'm using an AZTEK A470 fitted with their 0.3mm tip.  By current airbrush standards, it is like trying to control a fire hose!

 

cheers repeater - hope to have some more colour on very shortly.

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Simply beautiful work Ralph.

 

I too would be interested to know what setup you use and, also (if it's not a trade secret) what air pressure you're using to get such fine control...

 

EDIT - in line with your answer above, that's pretty impressive and is a clear example of craftsman getting the most out of a tool....

 

Matt

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Another Masterpiece in the works!! Can't wait to see the next update!

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Matt:  not secrets.  Prefer to use Tamiya acrylics and depending on the application, cut anywhere between 70 and 90% with their lacquer thinner.  Pressure gauge reads about 20psi most of the time.  The control really is average at best - I simply can't get smooth freehand lines without at least 2mm of overspray with the AZTEK.   Have to try to hide it all under the weathering.  I have played with a Tamiya HG SuperFine AB, but just can't get the hang of it.

 

Dave:  update as ordered...

 

Similar approach.  XF-74 Olive Drab (JGSDF) squiggle and XF-65 Field Grey infill...

1AS_zps15cac981.jpg

 

2AS_zps6d15d89d.jpg

 

... 4:1 mix of XF-24 Dark Grey and XF-85 Rubber Black for the "RLM75"...

http://s260.photobucket.com/user/rhiese/media/Fw190%20A8R2%20Black%208/3AS_zps5ae55d14.jpg.html'>3AS_zps5ae55d14.jpg

 

69424.jpg.html]4AS_zps60369424.jpg]

 

[url=http://s260.photobucket.com/user/rhiese/media/Fw190%20A8R2%20Black%208/5AS_zps2737a8d7.jpg.html]5AS_zps2737a8d7.jpg

 

6AS_zpsc39340f1.jpg

... fuselage mottle was toned down with some of the underside colour mix.  Matt:  the demarcation between the upper colours and the fuselage colour shows the overspray issue.

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Really impressive, Ralph.  I had an Aztec way back when and never could do anything with it!

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cheers mikestar - yes...  they can be a bear!

 

7AS_zps9a2ac2a2.jpg

... red outline painted using 3:1 mix of XF-7 Flat red and XF-9 Hull Red...

 

8AS_zps65c194cc.jpg

... exhaust area painted XF-85 Rubber Black and streaked with 1:1 XF-68 NATO Brown and XF-69 NATO Black...

 

9AS_zpsfc8f9e42.jpg

 

10AS_zps422c512f.jpg

... cowl painted 3:1 XF-8 Flat Blue and X-18 Semigloss Black.  Rick:  too blue perhaps?

 

11AS_zps9cb73b2b.jpg

 

12AS_zps1e991ef0.jpg

 

13AS_zps1e7d0077.jpg

 

14AS_zps6f22b36c.jpg

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Bonjour Ralph, Hello Ralph.

Your camo is..... :wub:  :wub:

Your painting skills are fantastic.

I find the cowl color is just great.

Congrats,

Jamme

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Hey Ralph, what are you using as reference for the RLM shades or are you just guestamating. How does the cowl look under some paint.

 

Very nice by the way!!

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I don't see anything wrong with your paint work, it looks great although I can see where you are not happy with it, but the real aircraft probably had those issues. I use the 470 as well and love it to pieces but find if it starts to give spatter overspray there are two reasons; you need to get a new nossle or the body has gunked up pretty good, not allowing the needle adjustment mechanism to function properly.

 

If anyone is interested I can post a photo essay on how to disassemble and clean the inside body of the A470. I also presume you take apart the nossle after you use it and clean it out? If not, do that too.

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Hi Brad.

Maybe an interesting new "Tips" topic to start with?

Cheers,

Jamme

 

Done.

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Thanks for the comments Gents.  Feedback/critisism always welcomed.

 

Bevan:  I'm not sophisticated enough to know what the colours for "Black 8" at the time of the photos would look like in scale so I'm going for "in the ball park".  That said, the colour chips in Ken Merrick's books would suggest that - for factory fresh paint at least - the shades could be quite a lot darker.  Will see what the model colours look like after some weathering.

 

I try not to look at the cowl!  Will take some pics once the area's be disguised with some weathering.

 

Brad:  yes, I agree - and I do the tip cleaning.  I use a new tip for each new model.  Makes for a very expensive airbrush over time.  Will be keen to read your photo essay as the trigger action has got somewhat doughy - feels like it may well be gunked-up inside.

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Brad:  yes, I agree - and I do the tip cleaning.  I use a new tip for each new model.  Makes for a very expensive airbrush over time.  Will be keen to read your photo essay as the trigger action has got somewhat doughy - feels like it may well be gunked-up inside.

 

Tutorial posted.

 

You don't need a new tip for every model. I've been using the tip I have currently for over 5 years. They will wear out eventually, but if you are popping the spring and needle out the back of it and cleaning it each time you use it, they should last ages. I fill the tip with thinner and leave it for 5 minutes, then run a pipe cleaner up the end and all the crap goes flying out the nozzle.

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Thanks for the tutorial Brad - always something new to learn.

 

Masks by Mal Mayfield from Miracle paint Masks in the UK and some masking tape on the way to the landfill...

1AS_zps74756d25.jpg

 

2AS_zps43b6aa66.jpg

 

3AS_zps8cecdda7.jpg

 

4AS_zpsf604d7d0.jpg

 

... mask centres weeded out.  Wanted to try adding some variation to the black markings, similar to that seen in the reference pic...

5AS_zps497872d2.jpg

 

... Hakenkreus in 1:1 XF-85 and XF-24; Balkenkreuz in XF-24; and "8" in 1:1 XF-1 and XF85...

6AS_zps39e19334.jpg

 

...mask centres back in; other bits out...

7AS_zpse32ffa9f.jpg

 

... tried for solid white on the "8", and a mottled white on the Hackenkreuz...

8AS_zps9b0a5929.jpg

 

... something odd about the "8"...

9AS_zps56764e88.jpg

 

... no... the "8" 's fine...

10AS_zpsf95becd3.jpg

 

... can be difficult reading the colour/density in such small areas - could have varied the Hackenkreus colours a tad more...

12AS_zps572c536f.jpg

 

... the XF-80 Royal Light Grey for the dotted lines worked a little better.

13AS_zpsa9c28f6c.jpg

 

14AS_zps2aa73a74.jpg

 

15AS_zpsf0745ef8.jpg

 

16AS_zps050a3b21.jpg

 

17AS_zps5299a52f.jpg

 

Suggestions/critisism always welcomed.  Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Looks fantastic. The only suggestion I have is to fill and sand smooth the wing to fuselage joint that runs through the cannon access hatch at the wing root.

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