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Group Build/Review Revell 1/32 Bf 109G-6 (Stage 3 Complete)

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Welcome to our first ever Group/Build Review here at Large Scale Modeller. For our initial installment we'll be doing the new Revell Bf 109G-6 in 1/32 scale. We've assembled a crack team of builders aka "The Knights of the 109 Round Table" including myself (Mike/mikester), Dave J., Matt M. (DoogsATX), Matt L. (Matt_) and Rick. We'll be bringing you a step by step analysis of how the kit goes together, our likes and dislikes and some hints and tips that might you help you out a bit if you decide to tackle this kit in the future. Please feel free to chime in with comments and questions, without further ado let's get this thing rolling!


The cockpit:


- Overall nice level of detail
- Smooth IP faces makes using replacement decals much easier
- Separate clear fuel line easy to paint and detail
- Parts fit together into a nice little "cocoon" which fits nicely into fuselage halves


-Molded on seat belts
- Incorrect joystick
- Fuselage sidewall detail a little sparse

Not much to report here as far as hints and tips other than if you "hypothetically" forgot to put to put the fuel line in you can still squeeze it in with the cockpit assembled, hypothetically! ;)

The cockpit deck looks pretty nice with paint applied (Mr. Color RLM 66), I've used HGW seat belts and some lead foil for the straps on the rudder pedals. I've also replaced the kit joystick with a Quickboost part.




Port fuselage sidewall:

I've added some Airscale and Mike Grant placards for a little more visual interest.


Starboard fuselage sidewall:

Prior to installation of the fuel line. The gauges for the oxygen panel are from a Mike Grant sheet, the Revell sheet does not include these. I made a cursory attempt at adding some wiring to the fuse panel but I didn't go overboard.


Instrument Panel:

The gauge decals were cut out individually and applied. The decals are extremely resistant to softeners and solvents. They shrugged off repeated applications of Mr. Mark Softer and Micro-sol.


Overall I liked the level of detail and the setup, the completed assembly fits nicely into the fuselage halves. I might spend some more time adding a few details next time around but this looks pretty good right out of the box.


Stage Rating 7


Here is my thoughts from early on -

Pro's -

  • Cockpit parts fit together pretty well. Its' not a Tamiya or Wingnut fit, but I have seen worst from other manufactures.
  • I like the way Revell has provided the parts in a workable sub-assemblies that you can easily handle during painting & detail stages..
  • An extra point for Revell moulding the Fuel Line in Clear Plastic.... But then that point marked off as they have placed one of the sprue attachment points to the only part of the line that needs to be clear.
  • Love the Instutment Panel, as Revell have left all the dial faces blank. I used Airscale & MDC Dials on my IP's.

Con's -

  • I don't know what Revell where thinking with the moulded on Harness on the seat parts. If they were to do this again, I rather them not to do it at all, or give you optional parts with harness or without. I filed mine off and replaced them with RB Production Harness.
  • The Revi gun sights are very poor and undersized compaired to the Hasegawa part. Will replace with Quickboost parts.
  • Control Stick is missing a couple of small details.... I have used the part, but I would replace with a Quickboost part if I built this kit again.
  • Revell could have added more details like wiring looms etc.. to some of the parts. I have added some looms to one of my cockpits using .3mm wire and fine wire striped from an small R/C toy car.
  • Parts Layout on Sprues. There is no order to it, they are just laid out everywhere... Revell have added letter codes to their sprues eg (A, B & C...etc) but they don't use the call outs on the intrustion sheet. eg sprue A part 114.
  • I don't like the huge tabs that have been included to fit the canopy... I will address this later in the build when I have to fit them.

Stage Rating 6.5





Matt M:


  • Revell deserves props for attention to detail - the cockpit is a step up from Hasegawa's effort. Providing the fuel line as a clear part was inspired.
  • Instrument panel is rather well done for injection molding, and Revell thankfully leaves the gauge faces blank so gauge decals can be used.
  • Some may list it as a con, but the general lack of molded wiring detail. If it's not there, I don't have to sand it away to add my own.
  • The full tub cockpit subassembly is a welcome change from the typical molded-sidewall approach.


  • Well, the cockpit's not THAT much better than Hasegawa's effort. Some areas are noticeably better (the fuel line) while others feel like backsteps (cargo compartment door)
  • Several of the details are clunky. Knobs. Molded-on seatbelts.
  • The full-tub assembly could lead to some pain down the road, with seams riding the cockpit sills.

Aftermarket Used:

  • Scratched wiring loom with 0.2mm lead wire
  • Replaced control stick with Quickboost
  • Replaced gunsight with Quickboost Revi gunsight
  • Replaced molded belts with RB Productions microtextile belts.
  • Used Airscale Luftwaffe gauge decals on instrument panel (NOTE: I found I needed 1/48 scale)

Built Notes

  • The instructions and the parts layout are just awful. Sprue letters aren't called out in the instructions, but that doesn't matter because the part numbers are completely randomly placed. Like...part 19 next to part 83 next to 41 next to 16 next to 133. HUH?
  • My go-to solvent glue, Tenax 7R, has had problems with the Revell plastic. Others using Tamiya Extra Thin have been in the clear.
  • I found it most useful to start by mounting the wing spar to the cockpit floor, then use the fuselage as a jig for fitting the seat/rear bulkhead and sloping cargo compartment parts together. The sidewalls were added later.
  • Install the clear fuel line to the floor/bulkhead first. When you install the sidewall, a dab of PVA glue and a quick push will seat the fuel line right into place.

Overall, at the cockpit stage, Revell's 109 does a lot of things right, but makes a few head-smackingly ridiculous choices that detract somewhat from the otherwise really solid effort. The cockpit definitely rates an improvement over Hasegawa's G-6, but not so much of an improvement that I'd recommend the Revell on that factor alone.






Matt L:
Overall for me a big thumbs up for this part of the kit.

  • Excellent basis for super detailing, whilst being pretty good looking OOB and will satisfy most;
  • Nice instrument panel which looks good after kit decals or Airscale additions;
  • Clear fuel line - inspired and effective...
  • Cockpit-module (like most resin replacements) is a good approach (though needs care fitting into fuselage);
  • Good enough spar, seems like it'll do the job, not quite as elegant as Hasegawa's
  • I like the fact Revell left off most wiring, saves removing it to do more realistic job of one's own


  • Moulded on seatbelts;
  • Instrument decal too thick and solvent resistant to use as a single piece over panel without removing all surface detail;
  • misplaced left hand air vent (minor pick really);
  • Gun sights (along with 99% of other IM attempts) are pretty poor.

Overall stage 1 rating 7.5


Aftermarket used:

  • Radu Brinzan's fabulous harness set


  • Removed and replaced in correct position the left side cockpit air vent;
  • Straps on rudder pedals;
  • Beefed up throttle with slice of rod;
  • Flattened lead wire to represent the chain linked to hand wheels;
  • Brake line from rudder pedals;
  • Wiring loom from lead wire;
  • Revell dials punched from panel decal and placed into bezels.
  • Removed canopy attachment 'lumps', scratch hinges later.

Build notes
I also used the fuselage to set up the correct angles for the rear bulkheads. Spar is a useful handle once you've started painting. Whilst I like the modular design of the cockpit, It will leave a seam to be filled once the fuselage has been closed up.
Matt Low
I have yet to build a Trumpy or Hasegawa Bf109G so my benchmark is limited.
That said, overall the real issue is the "Instruction Call Outs", bad, really bad.  Stage 1 worked well for me.  So far an enjoyable build.  I will give a RATING OF: 7



  • Nice sidewall detail parts
  • Sidewall construction allows for easy scratchbuilding, wiring looms, etc
  • Pit tub assembly allows stand alone upgrade construction before insert into fuselage


  • IP is chunky
  • Not too great molded seatbelts
  • Cockpit tub construction can be tricky and should use fuselage as a jig (thank you Matt)
  • Canopy hinge is huge
  • Gun sights poor shape
  • Instruction call outs.  Incomplete reference to sprue letter with part number.  Always an epic search for a part
  • Random placement of part numbers

Aftermarket Used:

  • Eduard 109G10 cockpit for IP and sidewall detail.  Center console must be removed
  • HGW Luftwaffe textile belts
  • Quickboost Revi 12 gunsight
  • Quickboost control stick
  • Scratchbuilt wiring looms and cannon cover/detail with 0.2mm and 0.3mm lead wire
  • Scratchbuilt pedal straps with 0.3mm flat lead wire

IP details sanded off for PE IP


Eduard 109G10 IP secured on original IP.  Center console will be removed, light sanding on PE near both notches of IP for tight fit.
Pedal straps made from flat lead wire.
Wiring looms from 0.02mm and 0.03mm lead wire.
0.03mm lead wire wrapped around cannon cover and 0.02mm lead wire for latch detail.
Following Mr. Surfacer 1500 primer the pit is painted Vallejo RLM 66.  Wiring looms and other detail picked out.
After balance of detail picked out and weathering the front and rear bulkheads are glued (not glued to fuselage).  Fuselage is used as a jig to assure correct position of bulkheads.  Thank you Matt for this tip.
Fuel line attached to side wall and rear bulkhead.  Thank you Matt for this tip.
Sidewalls ready for fit and glue.
The fuselage will once again be used as a jig.  Sidewalls taped just forward of IP is to assure tight fit.
Glue is cured pit tub complete.  Revi 12 gunsight will be added later.

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Good idea !

One question  ?

Some pics show, what seem to be a triangular renforcement plate on the backrest of the seat ( M.D.C. and Eagle parts represent it ) but some other pics i also have  don't show that .

Have you an idea to what type of BF 109 G that applis ?

Sorry for my bad English language !

Gérard .

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Hi Gérard 


To be honest I'm not sure if this was a factory specific feature or that the Revell and Hasegawa (and Trumpeter?) kits just miss this feature..? I don't think it is specific to a particular mark of the Bf109G. It isn't a well photographed part in wartime photos...  If I find anything I'll mention it here.


OK, I've had a scan of a couple of books and I think that is part of a seat back that maybe wasn't always fitted to aircraft.  The triangular part is a pressed area which appears to be there to stop the back fouling the seat belt attachments...


Hope that helps.



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  • 2 weeks later...
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Stage 2:


Matt M:

  • Overall fuselage fit is excellent, with the exception of a locator pin just aft of the chin radiator that causes a slight misalignment. Easily removed.
  • The stub tail and optional upper tail parts are a great approach to the early and late-style tail/rudder options. Far easier to clean up than Hasegawa's tail-plug approach.
  • The clear part provided for the aerial lead insulator. Yes, you'll have to drill it out to install the aerial, but this is fairly easy once you've glued the part in place. I can't think of any other 109 kit that gets this small detail right.


  • The cowl. Everyone else seems to have skated through this, but I ran into seam problems galore, likely due to my solvent problems (see build notes below). The thing that gets me is that we've already been shown how to do this right. Trumpeter's G-6 and Zvezda's 1/48 F-2 and F-4 use the aircraft's actual hinged engine access panels to inform the engineering. Revell's arrangement feels like a step backward.
  • The exhausts. Unless you want to hack massive holes in the nose, the kit's design forces you to install the exhaust stacks before you join the fuselage halves. As one who generally prefers painting the exhausts separately and then installing them after painting the aircraft, this is frustrating.
  • The rudder. Revell would have you sandwich the rudder over two t-style mounts coming off the tail. Nope! I lopped off the verticals of those t-mounts so I can install the rudder after the fact.


  • Quickboost resin MG 131 machine guns replaced the oversized and poorly detailed kit barrels. Replacement was drop-in.

Build Notes:

  • Tenax 7R has been my solvent glue of choice ever since I came back to the hobby 3+ years ago. It's worked like a charm across probably thirty models now. So it was a bit of a surprise when it floundered here. It did a fine job of melting the Revell plastic, but that plastic took forever to cure back. I think this might be responsible for some of my cowl fit issues. I switched to straight MEK for the rest of the build and had no problems.
  • The instructions call out Part #69 for the tailwheel fairing. The opening on this part is too small to fit the oleo scissor, so you'll probably want to use #70 instead.

Overall Stage 2 Rating: 7 - Again, the Revell gets a lot of things right, and a few things just seem head-smackingly stupid.
Matt L:

  • Fuselage fit is pretty good, as others have noted part I34 didn't fit too well at the rear;
  • Tail upper was a good fit;


  • The notorious beule, under sized, though maybe a more accurate shape than Hasegawa. For this build I went with the Hasegawa parts.
  • I felt the locating mounts for the upper part of the tail wheel strut were a little vague, worked fine in the end but could have had a more positive fit.
  • Exhausts as everyone says could have been engineered for external fitting.
  • Quite a lot of seam work to do if wanting to leave canopy open and get a good smooth cockpit sill..

Construction notes:
I had less trouble than Matt with the nose panels, but did have a little bit of alignment issue between side panels and top (I think this was my fault for trying a different approach I won't bore you with). Anyway,  a little filler and some sanding and it's almost sorted.
Hasegawa beule, not a perfect fit, especially at the front, but very do-able, hopefully someone will come out with a solution to this before my next..  The supercharger intake went on OK. I added the thicker rim missing from the kit with a ring of lead wire blended in with superglue. I still need to add the weld seam. You can just make out the hole I've cut in the nose to get the exhausts in later (hopefully some nice aftermarket ones with hollowed out ends - please...)


The most tiresome and tricky element of this stage for me has been tidying up the cockpit insert around the cockpit sill. On the real aircraft this 'shelf' is quite a feature and the way Revell engineered the cockpit insert leaves a sizeable seam running right around it.
Puttying and sanding around the previously detailed cockpit was not fun!  I also lost the rear luggage compartment door when sanding away the seam around the rear bulkhead (now replaced).
No aftermarket as such.
Hasegawa beule,
Added lead wire to supercharger intake to form lip,
Aluminium sheet to recreate lost luggage cpt cover..
Overall stage 2 rating 8 - Most of this Revell gets right (a couple of errors in instructions have been picked up by Matt above). It does have foibles, but I enjoy the build in itself and think the next will be easier. It also felt good assembling a dimensionally accurate fuselage...
Matt M:
So I wonder if the inevitable Eduard PE set will include a PE applique for the cockpit "shelf"? Seems like quite possibly the most obviously needed PE enhancement.
Also a note about the rear bulkhead (assuming you're talking the slanted part) - I've found the seam/slight protrusion does an excellent job locating the rear glass, and is in turn completely covered up by it. So I think it might have been intentional. Maybe.
Matt L:
Yep, a part covering the whole sill and the sloping bulkhead would be good. I shall try my own version of that solution on the next...
I don't know if Revell intended that lip...? It certainly does help locate the three part canopy's rear, but on the Erla Haube it shows up when there should be a flat surface all the way to the edge:
In fact the rear of the canopy slightly overlaps that bulkhead - that's what gives the distinctive worn area along the edges. That's why I put a lot of effort into getting it nice and smooth...  Just noticed in this image that the panel has a totally different hinge - little butt hinges at either end, rather than the piano hinge on the Revell kit (not saying Revell one is wrong, this is just a variation).
Like the wing spar that locates the cockpit into place in the Fuse.
Found the cowl pieces went together well and I didn't have any hassles of filling the seam many times on same area on the Hasegawa kits.
Love the tail stub to cover the diffenent Tail options
Overall fit of the Fuselage is pretty good.
Small about of Flash on some of the parts
Pins misalign lower fuselage just aft of the chin scoop.
Having to fit the exhausts so early
Don't the like the MG's provide in the kit, they look out of scale compared to other manufacturers. Replaced with Aber barrels.
Cowl bulges just don't look right...
No weld seam on the supercharger intake.
Stage 2 rating... 7 out of 10

  • Fuselage fit good, no alignment issues.
  • Nice to have choice of filler caps.
  • Love the wheel well construction, really nice detail.  Kinda tricky to align, I used inner wing panels as a jig.
  • Wing spars work well especially during wheel well assembly.


  • Exhaust assembly early and could be a pain to paint around.  I removed much of nose area to allow insertion of Quick Boost exhaust deep into final build.
  • Cowling panels are annoying to build.  Where is the DB-605?  After much test fitting I decided to eliminate braces for top cover to ensure tight alignment and fit.
  • MG's too bulky, replaced with QB 131 MG's.
  • One beule locator hole on each cowling panel not opened.  No instruction call out to open holes on cowling panel.  I removed beule locator pins to allow better flush fit to cowling panel.
  • Tail wheel part incorrectly called out, #69 does not allow oleo fit use #70 (thank you Matt M).
  • Rear cockpit bulkhead fit for Erla Hood.  Using the Erla Hood in open position you must make the bulkhead flush to fuselage.  A little surgery required not really a big deal with exception this could have been easier if done during earlier stages of cockpit assembly.
  • Instruction call outs.  Continue to be the only truly awful feature on this kit. 

Aftermarket Used:

  • Quick Boost exhaust along with some minor surgery on cowling side panels for good fit.
  • Quick Boost 131 MG's.
  • Plastic card used to scratch build rear cockpit bulkhead.

The really bad "Instruction Call Outs" are driving me crazy.  Still enjoying this build and the problem solving opportunities.  Stage 2 RATING OF: 7  Instruction format is a 2.
With a little work QB exhausts will fit.  Carefully remove the kit exhaust mount.
Sanding complete, now on to the cowling panel.
Carefully scrape/shave (like scraping a seam) the top and bottom openings to make room for the QB Exhaust.  Not much is needed, just a little smoothing.
Nose cut out and will add exhaust after paint.
Cowling side panels added before fuselage fit.
After fuselage buttoned up balance of cowling mount braces are removed.  Test fit showed these braces helped with challenging fit.
Top panel added and beules installed.
Rear bulkhead of the Erla Hood is flush with fuselage.  I want canopy displayed open and a little surgery is needed.
Extra windscreen taped on and pit opening masked to protect during surgery.
Carefully cut at base of rear bulkhead and remove bulkhead.  Then...
using .05mm stryne card I traced shape of bulkhead.  After sanding fuselage where new bulkhead would nest to accomodate the thickness of the stryne card I glued the new bulkhead in place.
After glue cure I trimmed and sanded flush to fuselage.  Battery cover and canopy opening rods will be added
Cockpit sidewall and rear bulkhead seams filled with putty.  Care not to damage pit is critical.
Wings and tail are next then sand and scribe.
- Overall fit was very good, the spars for the wing root ensure just about a perfect joint

- Wheel well design is excellent with great details




- Multi-variant design/engineering causes some additional work

- Anemic Beule

- I think I'm alone in not liking the tail design I would have much preferred a fuselage plug ala Hasegawa rather than gluing the upper portion of the tail on




As you can see I've already departed from OOB by adding some Beule from a Hasegawa kit.  The fit was pretty good with some filler being required on the forward edge.  I've opened up the front of the fuselage with a Dremel to install after-market exhausts after painting is complete.  I've also decided the the kit MG 131's must go so I've used some Quickboost replacements.  After reading about Matt's fit issues I elected to glue the cowl panels to the fuselage halves before I joined the fuselage together.  This seemed to work pretty well but induced another problem, but that's a story for another update.




The cowl panels extending all the way back to the cockpit area create a panel line which was not present on the real thing.  The incorrect position of the cockpit fresh air vents needs to be addressed as well.  The interior wings panels mated up perfectly with the fuselage.




I'm a big fan of the wheels well arrangement.


Overall things went as expected, as I noted earlier the tail and the cowl panels require some filling and sanding that I think could have been avoided with a dfferent design, but you win some, you lose some.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Stage 3:


 Things are strarting to take shape, literally and figuratively!


Matt M.:

  • Despite an anxiety-inducing number of parts in play, the wings go together without any real issue and fit very well.
  • The gear bay detail is miles ahead of Hasegawa's efforts, and the lightening holes throughout are appreciated (but be sure to get paint into areas that will be visible!)
  • The molded-in mainwheel bulges are a nice touch.
  • The flap and radiator flap arrangements are quite well executed, and allow for positioning at basically any angle.


  • Control surface detail is overdone


  • The clear parts for the wingtip lights incorporate the framing around the lens housing. Which is annoying since this has to be masked and painted. I prefer the Hasegawa "just the clear part" approach in this regard.
  • The radiator grilles gave me a mild fit, as I at first only painted one face, not realizing that these parts have detail on both sides, and are to be flipped around depending on the wing they're going into.
  • There is no reason for the wings to take up six parts. They could easily be produced in four, or even three, parts. The biggest annoyance here is the split upper wings. Why are they split? I'm guessing it has to do with plans for multiple versions, but producing different inner upper wing parts doesn't seem like it would be substantially more cost-effective than just going ahead and doing one-piece upper wings. Whatever the case, this sets up the need to blow a lot of time cleaning, filling and rescribing the panel line. The lowers could also easily be a single-span part, but fit well enough that this isn't really an issue, and the way they also mate to the lower fuselage already establishes a firm dihedral. Really, it's the uppers that annoy.
  • For the ailerons and elevators, the requirement to build them "onto" the wings and stabs feels silly.

Overall Take:
The wings/control surfaces are, in my opinion, probably the best part of the kit from a buildability perspective.
Matt L:

  • Good positive fit for all components. As Matt (Doogs) says this is probably the best area of the kit in terms of fit and buildability..
  • radiator baths and radiators work well, radiator flaps close to prototypical in attachment
  • Separate moveable surfaces, all fit well in closed/full up position (as I've done mine).
  • Fit or two upper wing panels could have been a real hassle area - but fit is very good. I think my second could avoid need to fill/scribe...?


  • Some sink marks in upper and lower wings (similar in fact to the ones on the Hasegawa kit)
  • Nav light, like Matt (Doogs) says - would have been better as a clear part only, especially as it has quite sizeable (for the part's size) sink marks..
  • Overdone details on the elevators, not the easiest to remove if you don't want to wreck adjacent details.
  • Lack of MG 151 gondolas (they would have been in this stage if Revell had supplied any)...
  • Instructions which miss a couple of items that should be fitted and aren't the clearest.

I like the way the wing builds and don't mind the parts breakdown. Biggest single gripe is that overdone detail on the elevators. I did each wing as a sub assembly and then attached them to the fuselage and this worked well, especially as it allowed me to glue the upper wing parts on a solid flat surface to maximise the fit quality.  Fit to fuselage is also very good, the bottom halves being held tight together and at correct dihedral by the system of lugs and locating slots..
So, best stage yet 9/10




  • Overall fit was good, despite being (IMO) over-engineered everything goes together well
  • Molded in wheel bump and correspondingly realistic indent on lower side is a nice touch
  • Design of control surfaces allows for posing in any desired position


  • Two part upper wings is just a needless complication, might have saved Revell a few sheckles but not modeler friendly
  • Overdone detail (discs) on control surfaces
  • I had issues with windscreen fit, this may be due to my deviating fom the instructions to get the cowl panels to fit better...damned if you do, damned if you dont

I had issues with the strength of the joint where the two upper wings sections meet.  After the joint coming apart for the second fill and sand event I resorted to gap filling super glue.  There is not a lot of plastic for the outboard section of the wing to adhere to.  A one piece upper wing would have been much easier to deal with.
I've used a dust filter from a 21st CT kit for the supercharger intake.
Raiding the spares box again for some MG 151 gondolas.
The rear control surfaces after removing the discs.
At this point of the build I was a little frustrated with the wings and my windscreen beeing too narrow.  I'm beginning to miss my Hasegawa Gustavs.






  • Despite the multiple wing segment construction, the fit was surprisingly good.
  • Option for control surface and radiator flap position.
  • Gobally very little seam work needed, issues cured with Mr Surfacer 500.
  • Windscreen fit very well.  I removed my cowling frames and had a nice fit on cowling panels.  Played a role in good windscreen fit.


  • Armor windscreen paced in proper position (inside) for late G6 created fit issues with the Revi.
  • Multi position control surface and radiator flap (ok, I do like 'em but for me it was labor intensive).
  • Landing flap "assemble to wing" attachment assembly.
  • Trim Tab on stabilizers.
  • Stabilizer detail a little heavy.
  • Navigation lights.  Frame on the clear part, sigh.
  • Instruction call out still driving me crazy, sigh x2.

Aftermarket Used:

  • Plastic card used to scratch build stabilizer trim tabs.
  • Plastic channel and brass rod to extend Revi to accommodate armor windscreen.
  • Eduard masks for windsceen and canopy.

The really bad "Instruction Call Outs" are driving me crazy.  Stabilizer detail OD, stabilizer trim tabs and armor windscreen fit issues gave me some slight angst.  Continue to enjoy this build problem solving opportunities.   RATING OF: 7  Instruction format is a 2.
Nice wheel well detail.  Multipart wing assembly required care.  I built up my wings to get nice tight fit before attaching to fuselage.  Once wings attached to fuselage I carefully ran tape wing tip to wing tip over fuselage top to assure dihedral.
Heavy stabilizer detail sanded down and trim tabs removed and replaced with plastic card.
Quick Boost Revi mount had to be extended using plastic channel, brass rod and CA glue to make room for armored windscreen.
All primed up.  Prop boss painted RLM 70.  WIndscreen fit well.  FYI, windscreen got a shot of black before gray primer.  Pre shade next.
Undersides ready for pre-shade.
Stabilizer trim tabs need slight tidy up work and we're good to go with pre-shade.






  • Love how the gear bay has been designed, and really dig they included the lighting holes.
  • The molded-in mainwheel bulges are fantastic inclusion. I have headaches trying to fill the bugle in the Hasegawa kits when not required.
  • The flap and radiator flap are cleverly designed, they just slot into place with out any issues.


  • Don't like the way that Revell have included the framing on the wing tip lamps, could of been easily include on the wing parts
  • Overdone discs on control surfaces, I can understand what they are tried to do, but way over scaled. I opted to remove with a fine flat chisel.
  • Trim Tab on stabilizers... WTF was Revell thinking of, when they slotted them into two pieces. I removed them and replaced them was some Brass sheet.
  • The spring on the Antenna mast.. They are so tiny, they are going to brake! I have managed to brake two of them, even with adding some protection to them.

The Hasegawa under Wing Gondola's fit onto the Revell wings very nicely, since two of the schemes I am doing has them this was my only option... and they fit pretty much out the box! I just had to sand down front point just a tad.



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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

hey John,


welcome to LSM.


Here is my complete WIP Hartmann Bf109G6 and finished pics Revell Bf109G6, Eric Hartmann I./JG53, February 1945.


Here is LSM's Matt Low's review of Alley Cat's upgrade/corrections for Revell Bf109G6:  1/32 Bf 109G-6 Upgrade Set for Revell kit from Alley Cat.


Barracuda Studios has a slew of Bf109G6 and G10 upgrades, scroll to bottom of this page..   Be sure to check out their Bf109 Wheel series, many options here.


Good luck with your G6, G10 or G14.  Ask questions on this forum.  You will get lots of help and recommendations.

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Rick, thank you!  Nice job on Hartmann's a/c!  I'm aware of all the "goodies" available, but for this first one, I think I'm going to go OOB, including decals.  I also have another G-6 as well as the G-10 in the stash and will probably get some of Roy's toys (can I trademark that?....haha) for them.

I'm still removing parts from the sprues, so nothing to report yet, but I'll already echo everyone's comments that whoever decided to leave the sprue letters off the instructions should be working in a sweat shop on some bug infested tropical island.  :censored:


Thanks again!

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Rick, thank you!  Nice job on Hartmann's a/c!  I'm aware of all the "goodies" available, but for this first one, I think I'm going to go OOB, including decals.  I also have another G-6 as well as the G-10 in the stash and will probably get some of Roy's toys (can I trademark that?....haha) for them.

I'm still removing parts from the sprues, so nothing to report yet, but I'll already echo everyone's comments that whoever decided to leave the sprue letters off the instructions should be working in a sweat shop on some bug infested tropical island.  :censored:


Thanks again!


They probably already are.

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Looking forward to seeing some progress on yours John...


Here is one of my finished ones from the build... I need to finish the other too sometime! - http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/1823-revell-bf-109g-6-emil-hecker-yellow-9-9jg54/?hl=moeggo


I think they are great kits, in fact I have a couple of G-10s on the way to me.

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They probably already are.


And justly so, Paul! 


Looking forward to seeing some progress on yours John...


Here is one of my finished ones from the build... I need to finish the other too sometime! - http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/1823-revell-bf-109g-6-emil-hecker-yellow-9-9jg54/?hl=moeggo


I think they are great kits, in fact I have a couple of G-10s on the way to me.


Dave, excellent stuff!  Yes, I'll take some pics once I actually start it, but first I have to carefully clean everything up, because I just removed all of the needed parts with my sprue-cutters and have some huge "nubs" to sand down, etc.

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Unfortunately we didn't finish this one up as planned, keeping these guys on track is like herding cats! :D  Watch your windscreen fit, I had issues on this one and the G-10 as well.


Here's my contribution form this effort:







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strange markings (any 109 not in Luftwaffe garb is strange in my book!), but beautiful finish


what a shame you guys didn't get round to finishing this


still, what you have done combined with the review tells most people more than enough I reckon


bookmarked for when I get round to building one of these


cheers guys

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Hello Mike.  Agree with Nick's sentiments about the very useful information that you guys provided.  Have to differ with him on the scheme though - love those Italian repaints!  Lovely work on a lovely scheme.  Great stuff.


I've noticed your prop tip wear a few times now.  Can I as how you do it?


Cheers, Ralph.

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Steve, I did miss the hole for the starter crank, been meaning to correct that!  Hopefully that's what you're referring to or it's two gaffs! :wallbash:


Ralph, I'm a big fan of Italian 109's too.  A lot of late war Luftwaffe 109's were rather plain but the Italians seemed to apply the unit livery and personal symbols right up until the end.

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Actually that was a conscious decision on my part, I was under the impression the pod was not manufactured for left or right wing use, the ejection port would be on the same side on both wings.  Oh well, live and learn!

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