rieser Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Cheer Gents; comments much appreciated. Markings were knocked back with some some wet 6000 grade Micromesh to avoid the red staining the white, and an old No.11 scalpel blade. Model was then sealed with a 7:3 mix of Tamiya's X-22 Gloss and XF-86 Flat clears thinned with lacquer thinner - a sort of satin mix as I've had trouble getting enamel- and oil-based washes to stick to high gloss finishes. AK 303 enamel "Grey wash for Kriegsmarine ships" was applied to the kit panel lines and rivets. AK 045 enamel "Dark brown wash for green vehicles" was applied to the extra rivet detail added around the cowlings, and to the control surface hinge lines. This was then sealed with some Testors Dullcote lacquer. The AK 303 stripped the paint down to the plastic in seconds. No idea why. The wheel bay door decal wouldn't play nicely either. At times the paintwork seemed to repel the AK 303 wash. No such issues with the AK 045 though. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Looks great Ralph, Only think I just noticed... Have you painted the control surfaces silver? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BevanBrooks Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Such neat and tidy work....it is a credit to you mate. I guess you could sand back the wrinkles in the gear door and shoot some red? The landing flap I kinda like!! cheers Bevan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Hello Dave: yes - painted them XF-16 Flat Aluminium. Hasegawa calls out "flat silver", and after looking at period pics on jaircraft, I was happy to go with an NMF of sorts instead of the usual grey-green this time round. Bevan: have replacement decal coming. Apparently one of the Kagero Top Colours titles has profiles/decals for the aircraft. In their case the numbers are separate, so the background colours can be painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BevanBrooks Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Hello Dave: yes - painted them XF-16 Flat Aluminium. Hasegawa calls out "flat silver", and after looking at period pics on jaircraft, I was happy to go with an NMF of sorts instead of the usual grey-green this time round. Bevan: have replacement decal coming. Apparently one of the Kagero Top Colours titles has profiles/decals for the aircraft. In their case the numbers are separate, so the background colours can be painted. I'm a little miffed as to why the decals are one piece in the kit, makes more sense if they were separate. Ah well it is what it is, glad you've got a remedy. cheers Bevan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polsen Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Coming along nicely Ralph ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 absolutely eye poppingly stunning.. I want to paint like you when I grow up Ralph... truly you are a jedi master of the art of finish & realism and it leaves me slack-jawed every time I see it... Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahunaminor Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Great stuff Ralph, I like the tonal variation achieved on the NMF by just masking and changing paints. Thanks for sharing. Kent 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Couldn't work out how to weather this one so time to start putting it together... Some Vallejo acrylic earth tones applied by sponge... Thanks to Ron Cline for the replacement decal - much appreciated Ron. Ultracast's resin exhausts (item QB 32 072). Highly-thinned 1:1 mix of XF-68 NATO Brown and XF-69 NATO Black was misted around the engine area for some shadow. As I couldn't decide what to do about weathering, the landing flaps were fitted to cover up most of the inner wing detail. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Ralph. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingco57 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Masterpiece Ralph (again). Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beychevelle Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 a piece of art. painting bare metal still something I have to learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Beautiful work Cheers Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 She's done. Many thanks for watching along the way. Appreciate and enjoy the relaxed ambiance here. "Cheers!" Ralph. More here... http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/3515-132-hasegawa-ki4-ii-hei-shoki-246th-flight-regiment-item-08220/ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 beautiful Ralph, the NMF is spot on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ophthoidoug Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Although the picture of part; riveter & steel tape sort of tell the story, I'd love to watch a video of you riveting. Do you mark the lines first? Do you tape the steel guide down for each line? You specifically describe re-defining each rivet with a needle after using the riveting tool - do you sand these areas afterwards? Apologies if the questions seem pedantic but although I haven't tried riveting anything yet, I'm guessing its a lot more difficult than it looks to achieve the perfect finish I see here... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlgiaNick Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Becomes a tremedous model!!! Nice riveting!!! Can't wait to see it finished!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hello ophthoidoug. No - no lines first. I scale rivet plans to 1:32 and then use a pair of dividers to mark the start and endpoints of the lines. Then just align the flexible steel rule and emboss the rivets. The steel rule is just held in place with fingers - much easier and quicker. For NM/silver finishes I gently sand the rivet bumps with worn 1200 wet-and-dry emery paper under the tap. For camo schemes, I leave the bumps there and gently sand after the camo's been applied. That way you can expose some of the rivets and add a darker wash to contrast the "hole" against the paintwork/exposed rivet. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ralph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rieser Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hello AligaNick. The finished model is in the "Ready for inspection" forum. Cheers, Ralph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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