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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Arado 234 Nachtigall on Speed

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Peterpools

Peterpools

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Rob

I'm still filling and re-scribing this morning and my weapons of choice are from UMM. What I'm learning the hard way, is that the Tamiya P Scriber, (I think this is the correct name) works well, it's way too easy to make the panel lines too wide and too deep. When I bought my set of UMM scribers it was only two scribers, now it's three. three. I'm quickly going back to them and making less and less goofs but still make a lot. here is the link:

  http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=8752&osCsid=562b4ec1473799b47b283c0c830f15ec

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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DocRob

DocRob

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4 hours ago, Peterpools said:

I'm still filling and re-scribing this morning and my weapons of choice are from UMM. What I'm learning the hard way, is that the Tamiya P Scriber, (I think this is the correct name) works well, it's way too easy to make the panel lines too wide and too deep. When I bought my set of UMM scribers it was only two scribers, now it's three. three. I'm quickly going back to them and making less and less goofs but still make a lot. here is the link:

  http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=8752&osCsid=562b4ec1473799b47b283c0c830f15ec

Muchas gracias Peter, I looked for the UMM and I can imagine, that these are good to work with. I think, the principle of dragging the cutting wedge, helps to get straight panel lines. I spent some time in the net looking for good solutions and decided, I will try the Tamiya engraving blades, which follow the same principle, but their cutting head is hardened tungsten steel and tiny, so it's possible to use them in confined spaces and on complicated shapes. They are not usable for working with templates, but for this, I have the needle type scriber.

Cheers Rob

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Peterpools

Peterpools

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Hi Rob

After another day at the ranch, scribing and playing with CCA, I think I finally have all the wing panel lines done🤞

I have the Tamiya scriber you are thinking of buying with a .2 tip and I only played around with it a bit. What you sat makes perfect sense and I'll do some testing with it this week on the fuselage panel lines. The UMM scriber I now use about 90% of the time: ESC-01.

Looking forward to you finding with the Tamiya scriber.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

 

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Peterpools

Peterpools

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14 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

The Tamiya scriber is nice and extremely sharp. However, it's also quite brittle so don't drop it or it'll shatter. I do like that they come in various thicknesses. I've also got some PE Scribner's but haven't tried those yet. 

Thanks Carl, good to know. Me big worry is droping it on my foot!

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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DocRob

DocRob

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10 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

The Tamiya scriber is nice and extremely sharp. However, it's also quite brittle so don't drop it or it'll shatter. I do like that they come in various thicknesses. I've also got some PE Scribner's but haven't tried those yet. 

 

3 hours ago, GazzaS said:

I a fan of the razor saw blade and the UMM scriber, too.  I'.ve used various methods to try to keep a straight line.  But, I always drift off course the other way. 

Good to know Carl, but I was expecting that, being made from hardened steel. What I like about the design is that it's small, to get into places, that are not accessible with other tools and that it is cutting dragged, so it's easier to get straight cuts.

Speaking of cuts, using my needle for scribing, which sometimes is necessary, leads to a half risen and half cut panel line, I do not like as much. You can sand down the rissen part or level it with some Tamiya Extra Thin, but it's not actually cutting the material, which I expect the Tamiya engraver to do.

I haven't used the UMM scribers and think they will be difficult to purchase for me, but they follow the same operational path, as I can see it, but I don't feel they are comfortable to handle with a blade for a grip.
The razor saw, I like very much, as it is easy to keep a straight line with it and it obviously cuts, which is a good thing, but they are only usable on convex surfaces.

Cheers Rob

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Peterpools

Peterpools

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Rob

This morning I scribed one last missing panel line using the Tamiya Craft Tool: #74139 Engraving Blade Holder with the Tamiya Craft Tool: #74136 Fine Engraving Blade 0.2mm.  I used Dymo tape for my guide and the results were excellent.

The blade is very sharp and tends to 'dig' into the Dymo Tape guide a bit more easily then when I use the UMM scriber, so in the future, I'll need to use a small metal ruler or guide taped in place. Of course, more practice will be needed.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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DocRob

DocRob

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6 hours ago, Peterpools said:

This morning I scribed one last missing panel line using the Tamiya Craft Tool: #74139 Engraving Blade Holder with the Tamiya Craft Tool: #74136 Fine Engraving Blade 0.2mm.  I used Dymo tape for my guide and the results were excellent.

The blade is very sharp and tends to 'dig' into the Dymo Tape guide a bit more easily then when I use the UMM scriber, so in the future, I'll need to use a small metal ruler or guide taped in place. Of course, more practice will be needed.

Thank you Peter for commenting so promptly on the Tamiya engraving blade. Guiding the blade can be a bit difficult as you say with Dymo tape. and sometimes a metal ruler doesn't bend enough. There is no perfect tool out there :D.

Cheers Rob

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DocRob

DocRob

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Decision time, I prepared the star shaped antenna, where I had to sand the clear lens conical to fit the base, but then opted for the tear shaped clear canopy with the Naxos radar under it.
I tried to collect more information, about how the Nachtigall's where equipped, but tend to say, as they were experimental, they were different antennas used, maybe for evaluating. Same goes for the bomb sight, which some seemed to have had and others not. 

So it will be the FuG 350 with Naxos antenna , but in the position of the star shaped radar.
IMG_9413.thumb.JPG.67611872e4e3ffc86e875f92a3715793.JPG

Next was the operators cabin, which I wanted to show open. In another forum was a build thread, which mentioned, that the engraved opening in the clear part is not orientated in the middle and inspecting mine it isn't by far :icon_eek:

IMG_9414.thumb.JPG.d9e7771e501477d76e179fddab78f83a.JPG

So I decided to make my own opening and as the shape and size of the original are not very clear either, I masked a rounded rectangle on the clear part, mainly because I felt that the engraved opening wood have been very narrow anyway.
I added Dymo tape as a cutting guide.
IMG_9415.thumb.JPG.87a120096efe733fb3ad5ed8900cfc55.JPG

Then I drilled first 1mm holes near the edges, which then were widened with a 4mm drill bit and then cut along the straight lines with a Dremel and different PE saws, razor saws and scalpel blades. That was done very carefully, with only light pressure, as the remaining plastic is very narrow..

IMG_9416.thumb.JPG.50ad3da0190d92656c5b4dcf71599932.JPG

... and finally, that's how the opening looks. The part will be painted in RLM 66 on the inside and then glued in place.

IMG_9417.thumb.JPG.b9d05ef4e2f4f2ce0bccd22ee3a14416.JPG

Along the way, I glued the nacelles to the wings and filled the gaps with black CA and Perfect Putty, and sanded everything to shape.

IMG_9418.thumb.JPG.708a11104a33025abfa3de7cc63d3a94.JPG

Cheers Rob

 

 

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Peterpools

Peterpools

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51 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Thank you Peter for commenting so promptly on the Tamiya engraving blade. Guiding the blade can be a bit difficult as you say with Dymo tape. and sometimes a metal ruler doesn't bend enough. There is no perfect tool out there :D.

Cheers Rob

Rob

I found, the flexible metal templates for scribing seems to work well when taped down into place. I've yet to tackle circles and the lot.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

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DocRob

DocRob

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12 minutes ago, Peterpools said:

I found, the flexible metal templates for scribing seems to work well when taped down into place. I've yet to tackle circles and the lot.

I have some PE templates too, which are thinner than my steel ruler and will be fit for the job. Circles are another breed, I think, you cant use the Tamiya engraving tool for that. I think this is only possible with a pointed tool like a needle.

Cheers Rob

 

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DocRob

DocRob

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14 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Nice progress there Rob. I believe I have that clear hatch still if you want a second one to make the window from.

Let me know if you do and I'll search for it.

You make me curious Carl, as you seemed to have built a Fly Arado, but no pics. Thank you for the generous offering concerning the clear part. For now, I think, I will make a clear hatch from some other material, as I think this would be a removable hatch without hinges, that wouldn't be too challenging. The FLy part has the misaligned engravings, which had to be removed and polished out.
I let you know for sure though, when ran out of options with that part.

Cheers Rob

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DocRob

DocRob

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17 minutes ago, Peterpools said:

Nice going on cutting open the operators cabin - looks perfect. Some mighty fine progress.

Thank you Peter, I'm not very eager about cutting clear parts, but somehow managed to not break the part, thankfully. This kit is really a mixed bag, with so so plastic and absolutely marvelous resin parts, but hey, I really love the 234 and thought about buying another one to build a single seater with winter camo, which would ease the build by far.

Cheers Rob

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BlrwestSiR

BlrwestSiR

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4 hours ago, DocRob said:

You make me curious Carl, as you seemed to have built a Fly Arado, but no pics. Thank you for the generous offering concerning the clear part. For now, I think, I will make a clear hatch from some other material, as I think this would be a removable hatch without hinges, that wouldn't be too challenging. The FLy part has the misaligned engravings, which had to be removed and polished out.
I let you know for sure though, when ran out of options with that part.

Cheers Rob

Hi Rob, I built one a few years ago. Really enjoyed the build. The only big thing I did was modify the nose gear to better reflect the real thing. 

IMG_20160620_180851-600x449.jpg IMG_20160620_181102-600x449.jpg IMG_20160415_204719-600x450.jpg IMG_20160514_163813-600x450.jpg

 

 

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DocRob

DocRob

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9 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Hi Rob, I built one a few years ago. Really enjoyed the build. The only big thing I did was modify the nose gear to better reflect the real thing. 

Absolutely fantastic build Carl, thanks for the pics. I love the cockpit and the camo painting. It seems like you haven't used the riveted decals for the cockpit framing. I'm not sure about that and will ponder it a bit.

Cheers Rob

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DocRob

DocRob

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3 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great to see your progress Rob.

It‘s not an easy build but you will manage all challenges. 


I still have the resin-kit of the Arado from Radu Brinzan in my stash. Was the only available kit at that time.

Thanks Kai, lets hope for the best with the Arado, there are still some areas of concern, like the multi part cockpit glazing and some others.
I've never seen the resin kit of the 234, it must be a quite heavy thing.

Cheers Rob

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