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This idea has been percolating in the back of my mind for a few years now. As many folks know, the Ikea Detolf glass case is a great value for displaying our finished models. It just has a couple problems. First is the lack of shelves. It only comes with three and there's a fourth counting the base.  There's lots of room to double the number of shelves so that's an easy mod.

Looking at the way the case goes together, I figured it wouldn't be too difficult to join two of them together on a custom base and top. Famous last words....

 

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First I did was practice using my router to cut a straight line. 

IMG_20200606_135939.thumb.jpg.37f8857f7a1c6903f80831bc874ae099.jpg

No, I wasn't drunk. Just not used to the router. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. :D

For the new base and top, I used some 2x10 pine that I had around. This in hindsight wasn't the best idea as we'll get to later. 

I cut the boards down to 32" in length and then ran them through a thickness planer to smooth them out and make them thinner. I then rip cut the boards to get a total width of 16". They were then glued together. The original base is at the top of the pic 

1591914454892-L.jpg

IMG_20200610_131046.jpg

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7 minutes ago, krow113 said:

clamp a straight edge to the work to run the router up against for cutting your 'troughs'.

I picked up a router fence from Lee Valley. That made things much easier so the only screaming was the sound of the router itself.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-accessories/110562-veritas-fence-and-center-kit-for-compact-routers

The one the router came with wasn't up to the job. 

 

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4 minutes ago, [CAT]CplSlade said:

As you 'get used' to the router it will demonstrate just how much wood it loves to eat if you don't have a firm guide to follow.

Yup, which is why I practiced on a scrap piece of wood first. Had my woodworking instructor teach us that. 

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1 minute ago, krow113 said:

I use extruded aluminum mostly , as long as it doesnt flex under the workload. I use a router almost everyday , either cnc controlled or human input.

I think the last time I used one was about 10 years ago. Made a hallway table for my folks. 

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Based on the thickness of the glass, I picked up a 3/16" router straight bit for the cutting. With the fence on, everything went well.

IMG_20200610_135540.thumb.jpg.a5712d626299ba6c2421ecc5bae660eb.jpg

I then measured for the placement of the holes and drilled those in the corresponding locations. Some of the holes have a countersink in them. To make sure I didn't go too deep, I marked the drill bit with some tape at the correct depth.

IMG_20200610_134941.thumb.jpg.6d6d8a6b10943eeaca4dba929c427083.jpg

Edited by BlrwestSiR
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To maximize the space, I had some additional shelves cut from acrylic sheet. These matched the glass shelves in their dimensions. To act as mounts, I used 5mm (3/16") wire anchors. I had some left over from a previous Detolf and they were a bit rough cast. The new ones I picked up have a much nicer finish.

IMG_20200610_154329.thumb.jpg.dc5921bfcd23682b3338feef04fce722.jpg

These were mounted 7 1/2" from each cross brace facing inwards. 

IMG_20200610_160659.thumb.jpg.6e5eb017fe4936b7fd6280e2f7d2ad75.jpg

With that done, I assembled the case as per the instructions.

IMG_20200610_174858.thumb.jpg.f23c585e323fa738e3cc4410e651baff.jpg

 

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Guest DannyVM

Great idea Carl, but you still have the same depth and wide. Even when you add extra bases, the height is minimized with enough room to house a W.W.1 or W.W.2 model. Diorama's would not be possible when tree's or houses are involved. I like your idea but is it worth the extra work????

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6 hours ago, DannyVM said:

Great idea Carl, but you still have the same depth and wide. Even when you add extra bases, the height is minimized with enough room to house a W.W.1 or W.W.2 model. Diorama's would not be possible when tree's or houses are involved. I like your idea but is it worth the extra work????

Thanks Danny! 

I usually don't build dioramas so the height between the shelves isn't a problem.  If it was, I could just pull the extra shelf out I suppose or re-space them as the wire anchors give you some flexibility in where the shelves go.

As for width, although it's only twice as wide as a single unit, I can maximize some of the dead space around the wings for example and fit more in the case. Here's  what I mean. 

IMG_20200612_160938.thumb.jpg.0772ded6c08fe5c6c2691e8aae3ba927.jpg

All the aircraft except for the VF-19 ( the white forward swept wing one) are 1/32. 

I think I may be able to get a second  F-104 in next to the one already in there. Depends on whether I use wing tip tanks or not. 

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Back to the build, in my attempts to make the top panel fit I managed to mess it up. The issue was that the boards I was using were way too thick even after planing almost 1/2" off them. The holes for mounting the wire braces are stepped. There's three different diameters to the hole as you go down. This is where a plunge router would have been handy. In trying to make the holes deeper and keeping the different  required diameters, I chewed up the boards. 

This meant I had to do new a new top and base. 

Learning from my first attempt, I decided to start with 3/4" nominal thick pine boards. At the same time, I decided to make their dimensions match the original boards for depth. I used the original base to set the fence at the correct depth on my table saw and ripped the boards.

IMG_20200611_141012.thumb.jpg.ef73c6f40cdd29874246ee9bc5f5ab55.jpg

For the width, I went with 32" wide. 

IMG_20200611_182723.thumb.jpg.4004855e55121d94910b602247addfe2.jpg

I then used the original base as a template to drill the holes. IMG_20200611_144147.thumb.jpg.ad6814fd0bf17dd601aaeb889bf6dde8.jpg

Doing it this way saved time on measuring and marking each hole individually.

Going with the 3/4" nominal also saved me having to create one of those steps in the holes. I just had one to do on each and that went much easier.  

IMG_20200611_145741.thumb.jpg.4f746a2d6c0f8ec217079528ac88310d.jpg

Then it was back to the instructions and assembling everything as before. Only this time it all went together properly! :thumbsup2:

Last step is to add the doors. Which I sort of skipped over and started filling it with my finished models. . 

In the end, was it worth it? Definitely! I don't have any aircraft not in a display case at the moment and with the space saved, I have room in my other two display cases for future builds. 

IMG_20200611_144644.jpg

IMG_20200611_145736.jpg

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7 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

A master class carl, I also had the idea for the extra shelves, took me forever to find the anchors in the correct size. Now i have to order the acrylic......

Phil, that's almost the hardest part. The anchors weren't the easiest thing to find, especially when you don't know what they're called.  

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Guest DannyVM
16 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Thanks Danny! 

I usually don't build dioramas so the height between the shelves isn't a problem.  If it was, I could just pull the extra shelf out I suppose or re-space them as the wire anchors give you some flexibility in where the shelves go.

As for width, although it's only twice as wide as a single unit, I can maximize some of the dead space around the wings for example and fit more in the case. Here's  what I mean. 

IMG_20200612_160938.thumb.jpg.0772ded6c08fe5c6c2691e8aae3ba927.jpg

All the aircraft except for the VF-19 ( the white forward swept wing one) are 1/32. 

I think I may be able to get a second  F-104 in next to the one already in there. Depends on whether I use wing tip tanks or not. 

oohh ok i see, there's no glass anymore in the middle. Thank's for the head's up Carl.

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17 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Back to the build, in my attempts to make the top panel fit I managed to mess it up. The issue was that the boards I was using were way too thick even after planing almost 1/2" off them. The holes for mounting the wire braces are stepped. There's three different diameters to the hole as you go down. This is where a plunge router would have been handy. In trying to make the holes deeper and keeping the different  required diameters, I chewed up the boards. 

This meant I had to do new a new top and base. 

Learning from my first attempt, I decided to start with 3/4" nominal thick pine boards. At the same time, I decided to make their dimensions match the original boards for depth. I used the original base to set the fence at the correct depth on my table saw and ripped the boards.

IMG_20200611_141012.thumb.jpg.ef73c6f40cdd29874246ee9bc5f5ab55.jpg

For the width, I went with 32" wide. 

IMG_20200611_182723.thumb.jpg.4004855e55121d94910b602247addfe2.jpg

I then used the original base as a template to drill the holes. IMG_20200611_144147.thumb.jpg.ad6814fd0bf17dd601aaeb889bf6dde8.jpg

Doing it this way saved time on measuring and marking each hole individually.

Going with the 3/4" nominal also saved me having to create one of those steps in the holes. I just had one to do on each and that went much easier.  

IMG_20200611_145741.thumb.jpg.4f746a2d6c0f8ec217079528ac88310d.jpg

Then it was back to the instructions and assembling everything as before. Only this time it all went together properly! :thumbsup2:

Last step is to add the doors. Which I sort of skipped over and started filling it with my finished models. . 

In the end, was it worth it? Definitely! I don't have any aircraft not in a display case at the moment and with the space saved, I have room in my other two display cases for future builds. 

IMG_20200611_144644.jpg

IMG_20200611_145736.jpg

Love the work you are doing. Can I give you one piece of advice? Get yourself a cheap set of foresner bits, they make much nicer holes in soft wood, and even nicer in hard wood.

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1 hour ago, DannyVM said:

oohh ok i see, there's no glass anymore in the middle. Thank's for the head's up Carl.

There you go. NOW you see why he did this and why I plan to follow suit. Except I am saving for 6 of them (shipping to me is the same if I get 1 or 6, so may as well wait until I can get the most for my costs) and will end with 3 double units. It will practically add the equivalent of 3 more singles depending on the size/wingspan of the kits I put in them which would potentially hold all my kits minus the 2- and 4-engine bombers. 

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1 hour ago, 1to1scale said:

Love the work you are doing. Can I give you one piece of advice? Get yourself a cheap set of foresner bits, they make much nicer holes in soft wood, and even nicer in hard wood.

Thanks! I'll have to get some of those. Thankfully Lee Valley has a store near us so it's easy to find these things. 

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29 minutes ago, Jeff said:

Carl, looks to me that the fourth shelf has room for ooooonnnneeee  more Spitfire.... love what you are doing, and masterful job.................. instructions? What are instructions?? :rolleyes:

Well, I've got 5 more (2 Tamiya, 3 PCM) in the stash so I'll be able to fill that gap and then some.:lol:

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1 hour ago, [CAT]CplSlade said:

There you go. NOW you see why he did this and why I plan to follow suit. Except I am saving for 6 of them (shipping to me is the same if I get 1 or 6, so may as well wait until I can get the most for my costs) and will end with 3 double units. It will practically add the equivalent of 3 more singles depending on the size/wingspan of the kits I put in them which would potentially hold all my kits minus the 2- and 4-engine bombers. 

A T-33 with tip tanks just fits but it pretty much takes up one half so I've put it in my original single Detolf. 

For the grooves, I used a 3/16" bit to match the thickness of the glass. Just in case anyone wanted to know the size. 

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