James H

Lookin' good. Near the finish post with an Eindecker. Fat Bastard? (The wine, I'm talking about )

Erik, I never knew you had it in you Great article. Some excellent photos there too.

Cheers Bertl, That will come in very useful

1:32 Jasta 5 Albatros D.V Lt. Wolf (2nd Edition) Pheon Decals Catalogue # 32016 Available from Pheon Decals Use website contact detail for further info As the included manual will tell you, there isn't very much known about Lt. Wolf. Even his Christian name is lost to history. He seems to have popped briefly in the history of Jasta 5, with his 2 victories recorded, then he disappears as mysteriously as he appeared, leaving only the legacy of his highly decorated aircraft as a testimony to his life. The aircraft scheme is also subject to a little supposition too, as we have the aircraft shown only in a Jasta line-up, and some verbal testimony to certain aspects of its appearance. Not a great lot to go on, but a scheme which really couldn't be ignored nonetheless. Yes, you read that title correctly. SECOND edition. The original, and much sought after release of this rather beautiful, and to me, the most beautiful Albatros scheme, is now finally available again. This set as I infer, concentrates on a single Albatros flown by Lt. Wolf. If recreating the wooden fuselage of the Albatros is a little daunting to you, then this set could be just what you're after. The fuselage on this aircraft is entirely resplendent in beautiful Bavarian blue and white diamonds, with a dark green tail and a doped silver/grey centre fuselage panel. More on that soon. This decal set is packaged into a large A4 ziplock wallet, as with all Pheon releases, and unlike regular multi-aircraft sets, this doesn't contain a cover sheet as it's not really required. Inside we have two glossy A4 laser printed sheets, and instruction manual, and an A5-size decal sheet. Looking at the first colour sheet, you gain a real sense of just how beautiful this aircraft was. Another way of describing it would be 'striking'. As well as the aforementioned blue and white diamonds and silver-grey panel, a golden yellow band wrapped around the fuselage at this juncture, both fore and aft of this panel. The dark, emerald green tail was trimmed with red, and this trim also existed as the border between the rear diamond pattern and the tail itself. Forward engine cowls, wheel hubs and struts were also painted in silver-grey, whilst the spinner was painted red, providing a beautiful contrast to the scheme, and a little affinity to the tail trim colour. Lower wings were light blue with 'W' on each lower wing panel, inboard of the cross marking, and the upper wings were in a mauve and green camouflage pattern. No lozenge to be seen on this machine. Pheon have gone to great pains when it comes to breaking down this diamond scheme so that a mere mortal can apply it in decal form. I can almost imagine Rowan spitting feathers with his first attempts as he was perfecting the panel shapes. Thankfully his pain has paid off and we can already see a number of beautifully finished Wolf Albatros aircraft on the internet. Pop to the Wingnut Wings site and take a look on there too. At this point, I do need to tell you that this set is designed ONLY for the WNW kit, due to the complex panel shapes. The second laser-printed sheet shows the scheme in a broken down format, and explains exactly how the various panels must be placed. These diamond panels are not placed edge to edge either. You line them up with the starting datum points, and then a central panel is placed equidistantly between them. The gaps between are filled with single strips of diamond. These diamond panels are blue printed on clear, meaning you need a gloss white background onto which you assemble the pattern. This sheet clearly shows the sequence you MUST under undertake in order to successfully fit the various panels. The diamond section just in front of the tail section is supplied as one part per side, and there is a cut out position into which you will apply the fuselage crosses. These panels of course will line up on the centre-lines of the fuselage. By some accounts, the wolf emblem on the starboard side of the fuselage, was done in a different, rougher style to the Royal lion crest on the port side. This isn't confirmed, nor is there any evidence to really support the theory. As a result, Pheon have supplied this in the same style as the lion crest, which looks quite superb. These specific decals are printed as the main body colours, with a fine black lined overlay which will give the various elements their edges. The red and yellow/gold trim lines are also supplied in decal format. As for that decal sheet, is does look daunting when you first look at it, but when you tie this into the instruction sheet, it is straightforward. Printed by Fantasy Printshop, the decals are thin, contain minimal carrier film, and very importantly, are in perfect register. The only national markings supplied are the fuselage crosses, as the kit ones will do perfectly for the remainder. Various edge trimmings etc are easily identifiable with the colour sheet. Pheon's instruction manual is again a hive of information, with the origins of German fighter units being explained, as well as the creation of Jasta 5, and the colours used for their machines. Two passages on Wolf and his machine are also supplied, as well as some brief notes on decal application, and information of the reference used for the production of this set. Conclusion I've been waiting a long time for this one, and I'm certainly not disappointed. I have a sort of affinity with all things Bavarian, possibly due to many misspent hours in Munich beer halls, and I find the lure of the Bavarian colours on an aircraft, just a little too much to resist. This one has to be the ultimate for folks like me. You'll need to ensure a flawless gloss white surface onto which to apply the main pattern, and that will be your biggest challenge. I actually think the decals should be a breeze to apply, and any compound curves there are should be quite simple to overcome with Fantasy Printshop decals. I've had excellent success with getting them to conform, even without setting solutions (which I don't recommend on these multi-part patterns). Simply the most beautiful Albatros ever, and perhaps even the most attractive bird to take to the skies in the Great War. Very highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Pheon Decals for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

I seriously have to use that green on my next Eindecker. Lovely looking job. It's a pity you don't see much of the pit when the cowls are in place.

Hi Paul, I sent you a PM. Saying we have a narrow field of modelling interest is correct. We can't argue with that. This site is for large scale armour and aircraft. Many other sites cater to other genres and scales. LSP caters only to large scale model builds (albeit with a non-LSP forum area), whereas we also accept large scale armour. We can't be be all things to all people. We try our best. Sorry if that doesn't fit in with what you perceive LSM should be about. This is what LSM caters to, and there's nothing more I can add to that.

Another Roland is released!! The C.IIa Late!!

Great build. That kit sure still does hold up even today. An impressive wingspan too.

Is it me, or do the wheels look too big? I love the SPAD. Maybe someday.......

It's the chance to have a nifty window box and flowers next to those curtained windows

It's a Walfisch!!!!! FRICKIN YES!!!!

This one is on it's way to you Mike

SP&R is a reviews-based site only, with no public registrations.

1:32 Bf 109G-6 engine Eduard Brassin Catalogue # 632025 Available from Eduard for 44,95 € Bunny Fighter Club price: 38,21 € That time has begun. In the months now proceeding the release of Revell's highly anticipated Bf 109G-6 kit, we are starting to see a whole swathe of aftermarket accessories arrive for this superb kit. It started with a correction set from Alley Cat which took into hand certain accuracy aspects of the base kit, such as the rather anaemic looking bueles, amongst other things. Now we have Eduard weighing in and adding their super-detailing expertise to this model, making it more than a viable proposition for the hardcore 109 nut. Today we look at possibly the most impressive detail set for this so far, namely the Daimler Benz DB605 engine. This release is packaged into the neat, top-opening Brassin box that Eduard uses for many of its more complex and parts-numerous releases. Finished in satin black, a label is affixed to the top to indicate the set within, complete with a CAD rendering of the two assemblies supplied within. Yes, two assemblies. Not only does this set provide the engine itself, but it also supplies the MG mount/tray system to the rear of the engine. Oh, did I not say? There's also a set of engine and MG mount cowls, incorporating that correct size buele too. One cowl part not in this kit is the lower radiator cowl. This set is designed to be used with the forward fuselage moulding still intact. We'll look more closely at this soon. This is a rather heavy box, hinting that it's chock-full of Eduard resin goodness within. That assumption certainly wasn't wrong. If you like lots of parts to your projects, then there's no element of disappointment to be found here. In fact, this set contains SEVERTY-THREE parts cast in a combination of both light and dark grey resin, plus TWO photo etch frets containing over THIRTY parts more. Six zip-lock bags have been used to bag up the resin parts, whilst a large casting block containing both engine cowl halves, is provided un-bagged. Protective layers of foam are used to cushion the parts within the box, and the instruction manual is provided folded over the contents. Tackling the first and most obvious packets that catch my eye provide some data for your use. Firstly, the engine isn't designed to be displayed without the lower engine tray/cowl in place. It is specifically designed to be used with this kit part in situ. This is because below the engine exhaust level, there is no detail provided, such as the shape of the cylinder banks, the plumbing or the fuel injector assembly. This is by no means a criticism, as this is designed to be seen from the level of the exhausts, upwards, and the detail provided here is just mouth-watering. Eduard has done an amazing job with the DB605's ignition leads, cast complete with their connector detail, and the conduit through which the leads run. The forward hub is cast separately, as is the rear ancillary equipment, but the main body is cast with a lot of sharp and very accurate looking detail, such as the breather which sits atop the crankcase, and various plumbing connectors and equipment mounting points. A large casting block needs to be removed from below the engine, but as this is the 'dead zone', there's no concern about hitting any detail by accident. One other part is given in this pack, and that's the rear cowl for the weapons area, complete with partial buele. This has full internal detail too, and it designed to be posed 'off the model'. The second pack also provides some useful information for the builder. Eduard has designed this set to be used with both the 109G-6 and 109G-6/U4 variants. There are quite a lot of differences internally, and both options are provided here in amazing detail. Optional parts include two full rear engine bulkheads, two different style weapons trays and a number of other ancillary parts. The bulkheads and weapons trays just have to be seen to be believed. I think this is probably some of the most detailed resin upgrade stuff that I've ever seen. Dripping in detail such as plumbing and wiring valves, connectors and other avionics. The various sections are also designed to be modular, with the completed engine locating positively to the MG sheath which protrudes through the bulkhead. It's pointless detailing every single part within each bag without this article becoming increasingly irrelevant and dull, so let's take time out here and look at just a few key pointers when it comes to detail, and follow with some images of what to expect when you open this substantial box of resin components. Exhausts: all individually cast, and with hollow ends Engine hub is cast with engine shaft in situ. Shaft is keyed for fitting the propeller Highly detailed spent ammunition chutes. Highly detailed glycol header tank supplemented by photo etch parts. Each MG built from two parts, with forward section incorporating MG mount. MG's have semi-hollow muzzles Superbly detailed multi-part engine mounts Separate oil tank and external engine plumbing Separately cast external air intake which neatly sites into rivet edged recess on cowl side Of special note are the cowl sides. These were actually damaged in my sample, but Eduard's customer service saw them send out a replacement immediately. This is the same level of service I've come to expect off these guys since I've been dealing with them. The cowls themselves are quite exquisite, with finely riveted external detail and neatly defined gun troughs. You will need to remove a small lip at the barrel side of the channel. This is simply a small web from the casting process. Each top edge has a finely reproduced set of hinges which were quite obvious on these machines. Internally, the detail is every bit as thorough, with excellent constructional elements all sharply defined. All resin parts are connected to their blocks either by means of an easy to saw-through stub, or in the case of some of the finer parts, via a thin wall which could easily be removed with either a saw or a fresh knife blade. Some areas, such as the gaps in the engine mounts, are flashed over and this will of course require removal before assembly. All resin is superbly cast, with absolutely no flaws on our sample, and no with seams which are nigh on negligible. TWO PE frets are included, produced in bare brass. The parts on these include rear glycol tank strip, lifting lugs, linkages and connectors, exhaust flame deflector plates, intake grille etc. All parts are superbly manufactured, and tags are minimal. A small amount of folding will be required, but nothing onerous. A comprehensive detail set will require comprehensive instructions, and the ones for this set are printed over four double-sided A4 sheets, containing a total of 37 constructional sequences. The drawings are line based, and are easy to follow. Coloured ink is used throughout to highlight newly assembled areas and those kit parts that need to be modified. You will need a little plastic strut and lead wire to complete the assembly of this set, and all this is clearly shown on the instructions. Some surgery to the base kit will of course be required, but nothing too complicated. Colour call-outs are also supplied by means of GSI/Mr Hobby codes. Conclusion Another winner of a set, which is chock full of detail and surely cannot fail to impress. This is no five minute project, as both the respective cost and parts count should tell you, but when installed to Revell's new kit, must surely go the best part of the way to producing the most impressive Gustav there is to be found anywhere. A mini project, all in itself. Very highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to Eduard for the review sample used here. To purchase directly, click this link. Consider joining Eduard's Bunny Fighter Clubprogramme for further discounts on your purchases.

Oh sweet Jesus! Let it be Halberstadt CL.II, Roland C.II Walfisch, or a Rumpler Taube!

No, there's plastic too. I know, as I added the categories

We have a sister site, Model Ship World for you guys and gals that like nautical stuff. www.modelshipworld.com

EVOLUTION AL plus 0.2 Harder & Steenbeck Catalogue # 126255 Available from Air-Craft.net for £154.99 It's been a while since we took a look at an airbrush here on LSM, so when Air-Craft.net told us they were sending a new version of Harder & Steenbeck's excellent Evolution airbrush, I really could wait to see this one. Unlike the regular airbrushes which are chrome plated metal (or nickel plated), this one is constructed mostly from Aluminium, with an anodised surface. Of course, that's going to feel differently in the hand, but just how different? I received this airbrush a few weeks ago but wanted to actually chuck some paint through it in anger of course. How else can I actually evaluate such a tool and report on how I found it? Exactly. I knew I had an opportunity coming up with a 1:32 Bf 110E from Dragon, so I would be able to try a little cellulose and acrylic paint. My paint of choice is Gunze/Mr Hobby and Tamiya, so this is what I'll be atomising today. Due to the needle size, I wouldn't expect an airbrush this size to really be used for applying primer to large surfaces, so I will spare it that task. The Evolution AL plus 0.2 is packaged into a very sturdy, lockable plastic case with the interior shaped to hold the airbrush. Externally, a cardboard sleeve encases the box, and within the sleeve is a stock Harder & Steenbeck instruction manual for the Evolution range of airbrushes. As the product title suggests, this airbrush has a 0.2mm needle, which is the finer end of what modellers would readily buy, being designed for finer detail work. The colour cup on this model is also very small, having a capacity of 2ml only. Don't let this put you off. This is pretty much stock for the smaller needle size brushes. The shape of the removable colour cup means that it's also very easy to clean out, and of course, removing it makes things real easy during a main strip down and clean at the end of a session. I've heard one remark from a well-known modeller about how the airbrush actually feels in the hand, with its reduced weight. The spiel for this type does say that this model is 50% lighter than similar non-aluminium airbrushes. Well, that reviewer found it too light due to the aluminium construction, but I would tend to disagree with him. I find the airbrush feels very comfortable and as natural in the hand as my regular Iwata weapons of choice. Yes, it is much lighter, but it still feels substantial and balanced. That fear, for me, is allayed. This is a very attractive airbrush. The aluminium parts are beautifully and evenly anodised in black. Anodising isn't a coating, but instead, it's a process whereby the natural oxide layer of the aluminium is dyed, through an electrolytic treatment. The anodised parts benefit from corrosion resistance, and offers some general protection to the metal itself. I still advise that you don't treat the airbrush roughly (and why would you with such an investment?), as you wouldn't want to scuff the very attractive appearance which it has. The name 'EVOLUTION AL plus' is emblazoned on the side of the airbrush too. Here are a few general details regarding this airbrush. Black anodised aluminium body and tail 0.2mm needle/nozzle (optional 0.15mm and 0.4mm needle/nozzle sets available) 2ml colour cup (other sizes up to a massive 50ml are available) Stainless steel needle Self-centering Nickel Silver nozzle Quick connection fitting as standard (removeable) Solvent resistant PTFE triple needle seal. If you are familiar with Harder and Steenbeck's CRPlus range of airbrushes, then the AL plus will be very familiar for you in appearance and parts breakdown. Even for me, who uses Iwata normally, there is nothing about this airbrush which strikes you as being too different, apart from the fact that, of course, these airbrushes require no tools to strip them down. Always a bonus! Strip-down is remarkably simple and very quick to perform, taking only a few moments, and making it a real bonus if you need to do a little quick maintenance whilst part way through a paint job. The 'self-centering nozzle' is essentially a tube with a nozzle end and a PTFE seal at the other. This inserts, like a barrel, into the sleeve of the air head. The air head seals to the airbrush body via a small O-ring. As this is a fine detail brush, the needle cap (crown cap) is mostly designed to just protect the needle with a couple of 'v' protrusions, instead of the whole or crenelated air caps we see on airbrushes with less-fine needles. The air cap and air head are chrome plated, and you can remove the needle cap by simply twisting it away from the air head. This is a little fiddly, but it does come off. There is nothing remarkably different in the body of the airbrush as compared to other types, and you will be wholly familiar with how to disassemble and reassemble this model. Removing the tail (end piece, in the manual), you can of course slacken the needle securing nut and then retract the needle a little before you attempt to remove the nozzle for cleaning. The locking nut is actually bevelled inwards from the rear, lessening any risk of damaging the needle when re-inserting it after cleaning. Removing the colour cup via its screw fitting, reveals a PTFE ring which is inserted into the body of the airbrush. As this is just a seal, and providing that you ensure the colour cup is firmly screwed in, then you should have no problems with any solvents attacking this. In fact, the statistics for this model do say that the PTFE seals within the AL plus are indeed solvent resistant. I tend to use Premi-Air Liquid Reamer, which is a pretty ferocious, toluene-based cleaner, and in the limited use I've so far given this brush, I've seen no deterioration or swelling of these. The rubber O-ring which seals the air head to the body is standard rubber, but the design of the airbrush should mean that this never actually sees any solvent. My tests have shown this area to be both clean and dry when I stripped it down to clean things up. How does it perform though? To be honest, it performs beautifully, and no differently to the already high expectations I'd set for it. It's more than a match for my 0.3mm Iwata airbrush, which I use with the crown cap removed, when I am doing fine detailing. As this airbrush is specifically designed for that fine work, I found that I wasn't straining my trigger finger in trying to hold back a flood of paint that could come as a result of pushing my Iwata HP-C Plus to the limit with fine detail work. Alclad Alclad is by nature, a very thin product, and is sprayed without thinner. After airbrushing a test piece of plastic in gloss black, I used an Alclad lacquer to cover this, opening up the throttle a little. Spraying pressure was about 12PSI, and the airbrush was moved around the surface from about an inch away, at a speed which ensured the freshly laid colour was slightly wet as I progressed. Flawless. Gunze Aqueous/Cellulose/Metallics I like to thin both of these types of paint by at least 50%, using Mr Levelling Thinner; even the Aqueous one. I find it helps paint flow, and certainly stops me having to think twice when I move between the two types of paint. Again, I am spraying these at around 12PSI. I rarely increase pressure unless absolutely necessary, and if applying a heavily thinned mottle paint scheme, I lower the pressure even further in order to stop the paint spidering on me, and welling up. Both types of paint handled beautifully with this airbrush, with no clogging or spraying issues. It's unlikely you're going to want to spray Mr Metal Color in fine patterns, but I thought I'd try it anyway. Again, this medium is sprayed un-thinned, but this time, I simply could get no paint flow, presumably due to pigment size. I soon overcame this by loosening the needle locking nut, and retracting the needle by a very small fraction. This allowed paint flow, albeit a flow which you really couldn't describe as being fine. I don't recommend Mr Metal Color with this airbrush, unless you're not after a particularly fine spray pattern, which to be honest, isn't what you normally use the stuff for anyway. Tamiya paint For pre-shading, I tend to use Tamiya Matt Black. This is thinned by 50%, again using Mr Levelling Thinner. Pressure again is 12PSI. The pre-shading control on the surfaces of my 1:32 Bf 110E showed a beautiful level of consistent control which I find perfect for this task. Although I don't spray fine lines for this task, I still want them to be fairly even and not too broad. Just keeping the pressure at around 12PSI and opening up the throttle a little on the airbrush, brought just the results that I strive for. A couple of times whilst pre-shading this model, bearing in mind some of the angles and curvatures of the subject, I almost tipped the airbrush over a little too far and deposited the paint onto the floor. Those were lucky escapes. I suggest that you perhaps invest in a lid for the colour cup. It could prevent some arguments between you and your better half. Conclusion This airbrush handles beautifully. Whilst I've only tested the a small number of brands, and not touched those such as Lifecolor, Vallejo, AK etc, those that I did use were handled perfectly. I also didn't use enamels in my test as I simply don't use that type of paint any more. In the hand, I feel this model balances perfectly, and the trigger has the same level of response and control as that of my Iwata airbrushes. The trigger spring isn't too weak, and adjusting paint flow was effortless. Strip-down and cleaning was also a joy, and being tool-less, much easier than having to root for my small Iwata nozzle spanner. For such a high quality airbrush with such a fine needle, the price for this one is perfectly pitched, and if you are a 1:48 modeller, you could probably get away with using this airbrush for most of your work. I know it will get some serious use on my 1:32 projects. Very highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Air-Craft.net for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

Just way too smooth. You'll finish this soon. That scheme is absolutely NAILED! Love it

1:32 Junkers Ju 88 main gear bay Profimodeller Catalogue # 32158 Available from Profimodeller for 499,00 CZK We recently reviewed the new Ju 88 bomb bay detail set which allowed the modeller to create a highly detailed weapons bay within the belly of their kit, and today we take a look at our second upgrade set the 1:32 Revell Junkers Ju 88A model kit. This set can be safely used with both the A-1 and newer A-4 releases. The main gear bays (we reviewed the tail gear bay HERE) are quite cavernous on such a large model, and this is one area where Revell have really omitted to detail to the standard they achieved on the rest of the kit. Again, this set comes in quite a large and sturdy, top-opening box, but the reason for this is primarily due to the size of the photo etch sheet, which makes up the majority of components in this release. This photo etch sheet is packed into a zip-lock wallet with a card stiffener, and on the other side of the card is a smaller, secondary photo etch sheet. A small wallet of creamy pale yellow resin parts is also included, as well as an eight page A5 instruction booklet. What this set doesn't deal with is the undercarriage legs themselves. The kit parts are actually very good, and if you can get the much sought-after G-Factor legs, then even better. This detail in this set starts with the bracket onto which each gear leg sits. Revell have got the shape of this more or less correct, but it is totally devoid of detail. With the aid of this set, these brackets are sheathed in riveted metal plate detail as well as a number of extra parts added which add a forward bulkhead ahead of this bracket. Resin parts are included for gas cylinders which sit within the oleo brackets. Look into the gear bays of this model and you see a vast expanse of the wing underside area which is simply blank. Large PE parts included here are used to sheath this area, detailing it with stiffening plates and access ports. This is also added to with a little extra PE detail in order to make it less 2D in appearance. Nacelle interiors are to be fitted with structural elements which will require a little light surgery to the plastic parts, with the main gear nacelle area also have a structural frame to fit within and some small formers. The largest surgery to be carried out for this release, concerns this rear section of the gear nacelle. Revell have moulded these with the main undercarriage doors in a closed position, which isn't incorrect in itself, but what if you want to pose these in an open manner? This set allows this as it contains laminated panels which assemble to recreate the main gear doors. You will need to remove the plastic for the moulded version, and use this as a guide to bending the flat PE ones into this rather complex shape. I suggest you anneal these parts and form them individually before of course laminating them using CA gel or perhaps even white glue (providing you got the fit extremely good). These doors are using PE hinges and you will need some lengths of styrene rod for this, and other aspects of this upgrade/detail set. Something Revell missed with regard to the undercarriage doors, of course, was the actuator piston, which is provided here as a resin part. For the forward gear doors, you need to remove the moulded hinge and replace with a PE one which also incorporates the stiffening strip running along the door edge. Photo etch quality is excellent throughout with some wonderful relief detail, parts are held to the fret with thin, narrow tags. The parts also clearly numbered, with arrows to further help you identify the parts. Two small blocks of resin parts are supplied, and these are nicely detailed, with flaw-free casting. The instructions for this set need some careful study before assembly, especially with regard to the main gear doors. Illustration is by means of line drawings, spread over 28 constructional stages. Paint colours are given, but not with specific manufacturer codes, but for a release such as this, you can pretty much use the colours described on the main kit release. Conclusion This is another excellent detail set from Profimodeller, but again, not one to be used if you aren't used to a little hack and slash with kit parts. Some skill will be needed to shape those tricky main gear doors. I do suggest that if you can remove the main gear doors with a razor saw, and have them intact, that you perhaps use these and simply fit the internal PE detail skin to them. Another option is perhaps to still leave these rear doors closed, and just benefit from the detail in the forward gear area. There is a lot to be gained from adding this release to your project, even if your super-detail interest is only fleeting, as the cavernous bays really do call for a little something extra to be added. Highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Profimodeller for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

I've never sprayed any AK paint before. I'd be real interested in seeing how it performs. I have a Russian set coming that I'll try on my Matilda when the time comes.

Awesome! I just noticed RAISED rivets on the B-25 too

Looking sweet. Will you see any red primer chipped through the camo?

We'll have the official LSM banner for next year too.

Same here Assembly has already started though. Jeroen is known for being a slacker, so I hope to pique him for once...