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Everything posted by James H
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British WW1 fighter / trainer - Bristol M1C
James H replied to petr@specialhobby's topic in Special Hobby
Petr, this looks amazing. Perhaps we can see this one when released? Do you have any more future projects to share with us? -
REXx Model Accessories Model exhaust sets, various scales
James H replied to Grant's topic in Aircraft Reviews
Those look just superb! Check your email....I've placed an 'order' -
AND....we have THREE more upgrade/detail sets being reviewed in the next 2 weeks.
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1/32nd scale Halifax: *project complete*
James H replied to ThomasProbert's topic in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
This is just amazing. Now I want someone to release an injection mould kit so my soft-ass person doesn't have to replicate all your hard work. -
Things must be going well at this speed you're working? You nailed that worn green paint, and your skin, it's so soft.
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HK Meteor F.4
James H replied to benjaminsummerfield's topic in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
That is awesome! You can do mine -
Bi-Plane build: Double Rumpler!
James H replied to JeroenPeters's topic in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
You know I hide my mistakes well- 20 replies
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I use regular Loctite CA, but if you want a little extra time to move things, try CA gel as it gives a few seconds before bonding.
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1:32 Junkers Ju 88 bomb bay Profimodeller Catalogue # 32070 Available from Profimodeller for 1 490,00 CZK It's been quite a while since we looked at our last Profimodeller sets, designed for Revell's 1:32 Ju 88 kit, and we're pleased to have several more, more recent sets here that have been sent onto SP&R HQ. The first one up is designed to create an entire bomb bay for this model. When you bear in mind that the Revell kit supplies nothing in the way of this in plastic form, you'll see that this is both an ambitious and complicated undertaking. However, Profimodeller have done just that, and produced the detail-laden set we are about to look at here. The box for this release is a fairly reasonable size, and pretty packed out with both resin and photo etch parts. I warn you that this detail set isn't for the faint-hearted, and I advise both patience and care when it comes to planning and installing it. That rather sturdy, top-lid opening box has a glossy label on it depicting an exploded view of the bay, and inside, two zip-lock bags are chock full of creamy yellow colour resin. There is a distinct whiff of some sort of solvent/chemical too, indicating the presence of mould release agent. Whilst the bags are dry internally, the parts do seem to have a slight slippery residue which you'll need to carefully clean away before assembly. A large sheet of photo etch is also included, as is a series of instruction sheets with a LOT of constructional stages. More on that soon, but we'll look at the resin parts first, starting with the bag with the largest components. Same bulkheads, opposite side Revell designed their kit to incorporate two bulkheads from which wing spars protrude. One of these forms the rear cockpit wall, without any detail to the rear of it, where the bomb bay would be. Ironically, the rear bulkhead whose internals are completely hidden, includes some rudimentary detail as if Revell perhaps did originally intend to produce a bomb bay? What perhaps also gives this away is its location, which is in exactly the correct position for the middle bulkhead in the bomb bay. It's with this great start that Profimodeller have designed this new set. Interior side walls This kit contains brand new, highly detailed bulkheads and protruding spars to replace the kit parts. You still need to remove the hollow spars from the Revell parts and fit them over the resin spars, as a sort of sleeve. This is done so that the wings still hang onto something both plastic and rigid, unlike resin which can be more brittle. With these installed, you still have an entirely plastic to plastic contact surface on the outside. There is actually a third spar-less bulkhead which fits at the rearmost position of the bay, produced in high detailed resin. You now have, effectively, two bomb bay chambers. Some bulkheads have what looks like connectors for pipes/conduits in the roof area, but nothing here is mentioned. I'll have to check references to clarify whether they need, and indeed can be piped up. These bulkheads will be detailed further with a combination of PE wiring loom and other PE parts, resin parts and also lead wire, of which you need to avail yourself. Work begins by dry-fitting the newly plastic-sheathed bulkhead/spar parts into the fuselage slots, and then marking their inner wall positions with a pencil. You now remove these until work on them is complete and the bay is assembled externally. In between these pencilled areas you will fit the interior walls, complete with former and stringer detail, as well as a little wiring and piping which will again be supplemented by wire and photo etch parts, as well as some secondary photo etch cap strips for the vertical formers. All in all, very impressive. Two wall pieces, at first, looked to have been thinly cast from the rear, but investigation shows that these thin areas need to be removed, as it coincides with the blisters in the external skin. As far as the interior walls go, there was a little damage to some cast wiring detail, but nothing that can't be fixed within a few minutes with some 0.2mm lead wire. Of course, the inner ceiling needs some detail, and two parts are designed to fit onto the underside of the upper spine. Details here coincide with that on the plastic exterior, and is very good indeed. The various structures within the bay are constructed from a combination of photo etch and resin, such as the ceiling gantries, bomb racks and other devices within the bays. You have to know at this point that there are no bombs supplied in this kit, but I think to include them would detract, and most definitely hide, all that detail which you'll work hard to install. Some surgery will be needed in order to cut the lower fuselage belly so that the bomb bay can be displayed. This is perhaps one area which is a little unclear on the instructions. Whilst you can see where the cut needs to be made, no reference is made to any curvature which needs to be induced in the photo etch bomb bay doors. These doors are connected by tabs, and also have the operating rods which will need to be attached, using styrene rod (described as wire in the instructions). As well as those doors needing to be curved, the outer ones also don't appear to sit exactly on the junction from where the old plastic belly used to sit. This you will need to carefully measure up when it comes to installing the bay, and preferably before you cut that belly apart to use this bay. You might need to use the curved outer edges of the belly, alongside the metal bay doors, if a gap results between the doors and fuselage sides. A large, bare brass PE fret is included which contains many key parts of this structure, such as former cap rips, wiring, bay doors, gantry parts and bomb rack fixing plates etc. Production quality is excellent. An ELEVEN page construction manual is supplied, with 36 sequences to follow, and I do warn you that you really need to concentrate on this and acquaint yourself with the construction before you glue anything together. It's also advisable to get some photographic reference of this area too. I'll try to do this for you too, and publish on Large Scale Modeller's walkaround area. All drawings are in line drawing format, with most stages and areas being relatively straightforward after some study. Other areas are perhaps a little more ambiguous, but may well become more relevant during construction itself. Colour call-outs are given in general word terms, with the interior seeming to be grey. I need to check this again, as I believed that it could well have been a metallic-looking yellow colour which was the result of the electrolytic process the metal underwent to protect it from corrosion. Conclusion Well, what a set! This is probably the ultimate, and certainly most complicated detail set that I have ever seen for the Ju 88, but the finished result should look simply amazing. There is a lot of work to undertake here, and it's not going to be a walk in the park when it comes to getting everything to fit together, but patience should be extremely rewarding. Highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Profimodeller for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. Watch out for more Ju 88 sets from Profimodeller, to be reviewed here soon James H
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Bi-Plane build: Double Rumpler!
James H replied to JeroenPeters's topic in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
Bits are being snipped now and cleaned up. Photos in the next days...- 20 replies
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1/35 Academy Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer
James H replied to Dave J's topic in LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress
Cool looking vehicle. Got to be easier than the Matila I chose for the Eastern Front GB. -
Are you feeling alright Jeroen? Time to insert that thermo up the ass and see if you're ok? You are working far faster than normal. I'm worried. Apart from that....great stuff as usual
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Aviation/Military artefacts So what have you got?
James H replied to James H's topic in General Discussion
Seriously nice piece! -
I thought the LSM team should share with you a recent article published in SAMI magazine, and relating to the first UK IPMS show at Bolton, this January. Large Scale Modeller was the sponsor for this show, and we had the HK Models Meteor sprues on show. As far as I know, we were the first to do this publicly. Here is the scan of the article for you. We hope you enjoy it. (Also, lookout for Tamiya Model Magazine International this coming Monday, issue #222, for another LSM mention)
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Looking real good Danny, and that engine is sweet. You may or may not be pleased to know that the Benz engine in the new D.VIb kit has moulded ignition wiring! You sure did a great job adding yours. I know how tedious it is to get it to look right.
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1:32 Roland D.VIb Wingnut Wings Catalogue # 32107 Available from Wingnut Wings for $69.00 with FREE worldwide shipping The Roland D.VI first entered service in early 1918, just before the use of 5 colour lozenge was phased out (see notes later), and with its Daimler- Mercedes D.III engine, it was a designed to restore Roland's credibility as a producer of fighter planes, in the face of the earlier, poor performing D.I, D.II and D.III types. Pfalz was also becoming a strong competitor to Roland, with the success of its D.III aircraft. In early 1918, the Roland D.VI and the Fokker D.VII were in direct competition to each other to win a fighter contract, and the D.VII won. The excellent performance of the Roland D.VI with its Klinkerrumpf (clinker-built) fuselage and pylon mounted lower wing, ensured a contract was still awarded, just in case Fokker couldn't fulfill its obligations. The D.VIa entered service in February 1918, and by April 1018, a Benz Bz.III powered machine was entering service, replacing the older Mercedes engines. Balanced, moveable control surfaces were eventually introduced to the 'b' type, which improved maneuverability. A total of around 200 D.VIb machines were built, slightly outstripping the production of the previous variant. After the Armistice, some D.VI machines could be seen in service with the Freikorp. Well, we really weren't expecting this one! Now and again, Wingnut Wings gives us something a little unexpected, and this falls into that category. Ok, we have had a Roland D.VIa reviewed here back in 2011, so it was always possible that the D.VIb could be released at some point, but certainly for me this still fell way under radar, as I imagine it did for just about every other WNW fan. The clues were on the original kit I suppose, when you look at the nomenclature of the sprues themselves. Some are labeled D.VIa, whilst others were simply classed as D.VI. It's always interesting looking at this aspect of Wingnut Wings kits, and trying to work out what they might be doing behind the scenes. With this kit being the latter Benz Bz.IIIa powered machine, you now get an entirely new sprue to cater to this engine. There are other differences in this kit, of course, and we'll look at those in the course of this review. In total, there are only two sprues which are new to this version of Roland's dainty fighter, with both of these being newly tooled for the purpose. Wingnut Wings artwork is always the first thing that strikes you about these kits, with another superb Steve Anderson artwork depicting a colourful Jasta 59machine, framed with a silver edged border. The box sides depict the remaining schemes on offer in this release. All in all, a sumptuous package, as always. That's only the start, as we now take a look at what's on offer within. This release contains FIVE light grey sprues, ONE clear sprue, a single PE fret, and THREE A4 size decal sheets from Cartograf. All sprues are individually packaged, as is the PE fret. Sprue's E and F are supplied co-joined in the same packet. The PE is sealed in a larger sleeve containing the decal sheets. As you'll have seen from recent Wingnut Wings releases, the instruction manual is no longer packaged in a sleeve. SPRUE A Most sprues in this release are not new, and this first one we saw in the original D.VIa release. Mostly concerning the cockpit, this sprue contains the framework sidewalls, but not the bulkheads. Those are on a newly tooled sprue. For that pilot's office, here you will find moulded the control column with separate grip and throttle control, starting magneto, ammunition magazine and empty belt box, three-part fuel tank, rear fabric bulkhead, pilot seat and cushion, rudder bar, grease pump, spark advance lever, and also the footboards with integral lower bulkhead. You will need to make a small but simple modification to the latter due to the changes within the D.VIb type. Cockpit detail is superb throughout with perhaps only the MG trigger cables worthy of being added extra. Of course you will ideally need to rig the interior using EZ-Line or similar, and a full diagram is given for this purpose. A back plate to the rear of the rear bulkhead contains a series of holes which are placed so that your rigging points terminate in the correct place. Of special note are the extremely fine but fragile looking internal cockpit side frames. Be careful when you come to clean the sprue gate location plastic from these. As with many WNW kits, the gates are actually quite short and there can be minimal space between the sprue and part. I find it good practice to use a razor saw to remove parts, and to leave the sprue cutters well away! Many key non-cockpit parts are also moulded here, and these include the undercarriage V-struts and spreader bar, propeller and spinner/back-plate, single piece cabane struts, externally mounted fuel gauge, empty belt chutes, radiator and control horns. SPRUE B Again, this is identical to the Sprue B supplied in the previous incarnation of this kit, and contains all of the Roland's flying surfaces. It's pretty obvious that the airframe of the D.VIa, as we know it, carried on over to the Benz-powered D.VIb type, for a period, and in this kit, those earlier traits are known as 'Early Production', with the 'Late Production' parts being found on a new-tool sprue we'll look at soon. Both upper and lower wings are moulded as single, full span pieces. Of course, the lower fuselage wing mounting pylon makes this very easy for this type. All control surfaces are superbly detailed with excellent rib and taught fabric detail throughout, exhibiting just that right amount of sag. Rigging points are clearly defined, but I would perhaps just drill them out a little further with a micro-drill bit. Strut location points are very clean and deep too, with the various points being shaped to fit the specific strut required to fit there, making assembly trouble-free. SPRUE C As always, this is the clear parts sprue, and it's identical to that in the previous incarnation of this kit, containing two windscreen options. Clarity is excellent. SPRUE D This is the last grey sprue which is common to the previous release, and that sleek looking clinker-built fuselage is presented here. Whilst this is the same as the previous variant, there are of course some changes to be made to this relating to the position of the various engine services access ports moulded on its exterior. This will require some parts which are supplied on a newly tooled sprue. As far as I can see, this is the only variation that needs to be made to the fuselage. Wingnut Wings did a great job in recreating that clinker fuselage, with nice, sharp strakes and nail pattern lines. The rear stabilizer is designed to slot into the rear fuselage as a single piece. Internally, that clinker construction is carried through, creating a most unusual cockpit interior. Unlike some other WW1 German types, such as the Pfalz machines which were painted grey/green within, the Roland was natural wood, so you will need to master that oil-drag technique, or similar. Wing struts are to be found here, and there are two sets, with one of them marked as not for use. Don't get these mixed up. Two versions of Spandau MG are supplied too. One of these is the standard plastic moulded one, whilst one is classed as 'high detail', and is moulded without the jacket. This particular option will be fitted with photo etch jackets which are also supplied. I know there can be a tendency for modellers to use the MASTER barrels with many of these kits, but the PE parts supplied by WNW are actually very good and fit superbly. They perhaps are more authentic due to being thinner, but of course the MASTER barrels and muzzles are first rate. Wheels are supplied as a single piece inner hub and wheel, and a separate external hub which is fitted after the wheel locking washer is fitted. Other parts on this sprue are tachometer, Spandau cocking levers, and control horns. SPRUE E I love busy looking engines, and the Benz Bz.IIIa is one of those. This model allows also for the high altitude Bz.IIIau also, but of course you'll need to check your specific scheme to see which type you should fit. The main difference between the two types is the intake manifold. All parts on this sprue are slated for use except for two parts which form a different cylinder head block. Whilst you are quite at liberty to paint the red bands on the cylinders which indicate over-compression, decals are supplied to do this, as they were in the D.VII releases. Having spent hours masking these up previously to paint them, I know which path I'll be taking here! Serial numbers are also supplied for the forward cylinder, with options being given dependent on which machine you are modeling. This engine comprises around 20 parts, and some images, both period and contemporary, are supplied in the manual, to help you detail your masterpiece. Pushrods are integrally moulded, but there are alternative parts, should you wish to add your own detail. Another 'first' with this engine is the moulded ignition and magneto wiring detail!!! It' actually quite nice. Take a look. SPRUE F This is the second newly tooled sprue supplied with this release, and provides you with all those Late Production tail surfaces and ailerons for three schemes which warrant their use. Those internal bulkheads are also moulded here, as is an entirely new upper, forward coaming to suit this variant. There is another which is moulded on sprue D, but DO NOT USE that particular one. The instructions clearly show it's not for use, do don't get them mixed up as they are very similar. A new engine needs new cowls, and here is where you'll find them, as well as the forward nose cowl too. Other parts are the engine bearers, oil tank radiator, instrument board, water coolant pipe, exhaust manifold, new engine access ports for exterior, and control horns. Just a quick note about the exhaust manifold. This is moulded so the outlet is a formed from an extra part which fits to the main manifold, creating a hollow structure which looks quite authentic. I would perhaps thin this a little further before assembly, but the lion's share of the work is done for you already. Decals are supplied for the instrument board. The Roland D.VIb had quite a sparse set of instruments, but what there is, is authentically reproduced here. Of particular note is the forward nose cowl, moulded with fine, open louvres. When it comes to finesse and detail like this, Wingnut Wings never lets us modellers down. Plastic Overview Sometimes it seems pretty pointless doing this section for a WNW kit as all I can really say again is that the kit is flash free and seams are minimal. There are no issues with ejector pin marks as these are either on tags external to the parts, or they are hidden after assembly. There aren't any sink marks either. It's pretty much as good as it can possibly get. PHOTO ETCH The single bare brass fret in this release contains a full set of seatbelts, ejector chutes, Spandau jackets and sight reticules. Still no idea why an elephant is used to indicate PE part gluing. If WNW's Richard Alexander is reading this, please explain and put me out of my misery! Etch quality is excellent as always, and tags holding parts in situ are minimal and thin. DECALS THREE sheets of decals are included with this release. Two of them contain lozenge fabric and rib tapes, exclusively. Lozenge is supplied in both four and five colour types, and as none of these are 'cookie-cut' types, it's intended that you cut the required panels yourself. Hardly any sort of hardship. The last sheet contains all the individual machine national markings and personal emblems, as well as a full suite of stencils and instrument decals. There are also a set of linen rib tapes supplied, as an alternative to the 4 and 5 colour ones on the main lozenge sheets. Where a marking crosses over an aileron, it is presented in parts for your ease. All sheets are printed by Cartograf, and are in perfect register. Colours are authentic, and decals are thin, and with minimal carrier film. In my experience with WNW decals, they adhere well without setting solutions, but can also be used with Mr Mark Setter. There is a tutorial on Large Scale Modeller which shows you how to apply WNW decals using a hairdryer, for an even more effective method of compliance and adhesion. The five schemes supplied in this kit are: Roland D.VIb, 'Berg Wappen', mid 1918 Roland D.VIb, Jasta 59, mid to late 1918 Roland D.VIb, 7502/18 "P132", McCook Field, Dayton Ohio USA, May to June 1920 Roland D.VIb, 7504/18, November 1918 Roland D.VIb, 7535/18 "Marie", Oskar Freiherr von Boenigk, Freikorps, late 1918- 1919 (26 victories) Hang on, did I say FIVE schemes? Sorry, I meant SIX! There is a bonus scheme available in this kit. This one is: Roland D.VIb, 2225/18, currently in Krakow Museum, Poland. This last machine was restored in the 1990's and the manual says to use optional parts for scheme 'A' in order to build this one as it would looked when fresh off the production line. Instruction manual This A4 sized publication stretches to 26 pages, all printed in a satin finish, with beautiful constructional sequence images within. These images are coloured in grey, with newly added parts being highlighted in blue for clarity. These drawings are interspersed with colour drawings which show assembled sections, with an even clearer colour call-out being given. Paint reference codes are given for Tamiya and Humbrol with FS codes also supplied. A number of period and contemporary images are also supplied, and the various schemes have images to back up the artworks which have been ably produced by the talented Ronny Bar. Full rigging drawings have been supplied, but some study of this is perhaps required, along with looking at the period images, if you want things to become all the more clearer in relation to what needs doing. Conclusion The Roland is certainly an attractive little fighter plane, and WNW have captured its essence perfectly. This highly detailed model is detailed throughout, with clever engineering and high quality parts. Again, the schemes selected for this release are nice and varied, and will perhaps cause you a little headache in finally choosing what machine you want to build. For me, I've narrowed it down to three schemes, and now I'm stuck. The inclusion of the experimental low-visibility scheme which the Americans used on their evaluation aircraft, is a very nice touch. For more information on this, there is a detailed description in the Windsock Worldwide issue which we reviewed here. Very highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Wingnut Wings for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link . James H
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1:32 Spitfire Mk.IX Stencils HGW 'Wet Transfer' series Catalogue # 232001 Available from HGW for 159,- Kč Today we have the first product from a brand new line by HGW; the Wet Transfer stencil series. Basically, this means they are water-slide decals, but this really is an area that HGW have never previously tapped, and what better a way to start than to release a set for the iconic Spitfire Mk.IX. This set is packaged into the same letterbox format sleeve as the seatbelt and detail sets which we see from HGW. To protect their product further, a stiff cardboard insert does the honours. Now, when I say these are water-slide decals, they do have a difference from the regular kit options, and that is that these leave NO CARRIER film in place when they are attached. These work in very much the same way as HGW's wood nail and rivet decals. In case you haven't seen an article on these, this is how they work. Cut out required decal Soak in warm water and slide from backing paper Apply to your model using a decal setting solution such as Mr Mark Setter Leave for two hours, then remove carrier film Use a wet cotton bud to remove any glue residue/marks Simple as that! This is almost the equivalent of having masks for your stencils, which of course is impossible due to the nature of the stencil size etc. These should look almost entirely sprayed on! The decal sheet itself is pretty comprehensive, including wing walkway lines, trestle points, etc, and of course the beauty of applying the walkway lines in this format is that they will be perfectly straight each time due to the application method, and only removing the carrier film once the decal is attached. Printing is excellent, and everything is in perfect register, despite there only being two ink colours in use. When all decals are in place, I would seal everything over with gloss varnish in order to protect the delicate inks. An A4 sheet is included which clearly shows all decal locations, with everything clearly numbered, and where a specific decal is only to be used with the early Mk.IX, this is clearly indicated. Conclusion That's it. Not a lot to say really, except this really is quite a ground-breaking product for the modeller. I have never seen stencils which come in this format before. Having used the rivet and wood nail decals, I just know these will be excellent. It makes me wonder whether whole national marking decals could be produced in this way, without the need for carrier film adding their thickness to the result. Very highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to HGW for this review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link.
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1:32 Fokker E.I and Fokker E.IV Super Detail Sets HGW Catalogue # and price: see article Available from HGW The old saying goes that there are only two certainties in life; death and taxes. However, there is a third and that is an HGW full detail set release for each Wingnut Wings kit release. Unlike the first two certainties, this one is something which we certainly won't complain about here at SP&R. The wonderful and highly innovative Jan Bobek from HGW has sent us the very latest sets for the Fokker E.I and E.IV kits. #132116, Fokker E.I Super Detail Set, 609 Kč #132117, Fokker E.IV Super Detail Set, 644 Kč Unlike some of the Fokker Eindecker types where some changes weren't as apparent as others, the biggest revisions in the airframes could clearly be seen between the first and last in the series. Whilst this sounds obvious, it was made more so by the fact that the E.IV was a seriously major revision in terms of appearance and power-plant. The E.IV retained the same wings as the E.II and E.III, but these were longer in span than the E.I. The E.IV fuselage was also a full bay longer in order to re-establish the centre of gravity, due to the installation of the heavier Oberursel U.III engine. Cockpit changes were also notable between these versions, so please know now that you really do need the specific set for the type you are building. You simply can't 'make do' with whatever you can find. Now, onto each set and what they offer the modeler. Fokker E.I Super Detail Set Each of these sets comprises a number of previous releases, but packaged into HGW's equivalent of Eduard's BIGED sets. This specific release includes the following items: 132536, Fokker E.I seatbelts 132114, Fokker E.I PE set 132118, Oberursel U.0 engine 632022, Fokker E.I mask Looking at the seatbelt sets on both the E.I and E.IV releases, they look identical except for the colour of the fabric parts, which look to be a darker beige on this specific release. They are also labeled differently, despite the similarities between the two. This isn't uncommon for HGW. The textile parts are manufactured from a plasticized micro-fibre textile sheet, and the individual parts are colour printed and laser cut. This means you only have some small tags to remove in order to free the parts. Unlike HGW's earlier sets, you also don't need to worry about the width of these not passing through the buckles due to cutting them too wide. Colour printing is also very neat, and the localized heat from the laser cutting has shaded the edges quite realistically. Whilst there is printed stitching, there is also laser etched stitching which comes out best when you apply a wash. All textile parts have a paper backing which must be peeled off first. A small Eduard-produced PE fret includes the various buckles and clasps requires, all beautifully produced to the high standard you expect from this manufacturer. The instructions card which is ensconced in the rear of the stiff cardboard backed re-sealable wallet, is dead easy to follow, and should give no worries. Use CA or similar to assemble. The PE set incorporates detail from both interior and exterior of the model. Internally, detail is supplied for the internal framework wires/turnbuckles, instrument panel (bezels, wiring and toggle switches), control column firing trigger, and fuel mixture control. A little surgery will be required to fit a number of these parts, but nothing major. Externally, there are PE replacements for the under-fuselage stitching, pylon cable pulley and bracket, and also for the strap which fits to the rear of the engine cowl. Again, a little surgery will be required for some of these additions. HGW have also supplied a PE ammunition belt feed. Consider pepping this up a little with some dilute white glue, so that it doesn't look as flat. PE cable grommets for control wires are also included. A single fret is included for the Oberursel U.0 engine. Looking at this, it looks identical to that given in the E.IV set for the Oberursel U.III, except the latter obviously has two of these due to its dual engine format. The parts included here replace the kit armatures, ignition cables and prop hub. For the armatures, you will need to supplement this with a little plastic rod. Of course, surgery is needed again for this, but in my opinion, it is very much worth the effort. Depending on which prop you use on your specific model, 3 hub options are provided. As this fret is identical to the U.III ones, the ignition wires will need to be trimmed to the correct length for this single rotary unit. Of course, the double U.III would have longer wires to reach to the forward-most rotary section. The masks for this kit are provided on a cleanly cut piece of kabuki masking sheet, and include inner and outer parts for the various windscreen options provided by Wingnut Wings. As is customary with HGW, they have also provided a small sampler of decal, and this time it's wood grain. The printing of this is on a transparent base, meaning you will need to lay down either a white or tinted paint job in order for this to look realistic. The transparency of these does leave a lot of flexibility for the modeler to create his/her own specific tailored finish. The various instruction sheets and cards in these are included in the rear of the packaging. For the PE sets, you'll immediately notice these are produced by Eduard, in their familiar, easy to follow style. Fokker E.IV Super Detail set This set comprises the following individual components: 132537, Fokker E.IV seatbelts 132115, Fokker E.IV PE set 132119, Oberursel U.III engine 632023, Fokker E.IV masks As discussed earlier, the seatbelt and engine parts here are identical, and of course don't need describing again. However, the PE set is subtly different. Apart from the lack of instrument panel in the E.IV, this fret is too almost an identical item, with only perhaps an instrument here and there, plus a bezel for the wing mounted compass. Again, the kabuki mask sheet includes interior and exterior parts for the various windshield options that WNW provides. The decal sheet in this release is again another transparent base item, but has a fabric texture on it. This could be quite useful for overlaying onto a green painted interior. Don't quote me that it would perfectly. I would test a very small piece first. You could perhaps mist some thinned green over it to give it a more suited appearance. Conclusion These sets are pretty much the only game in town when it comes to PE for your WNW kits, and they rarely disappoint. These particular sets don't disappoint in the slightest, and provide some excellent upgraded detail of which I think all parts are worthy of being included in your project. Great news is that none of the parts here are beyond the scope of most modellers either. Very highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to HGW for the review samples seen here. To buy direct, click the links in the article.
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Is Graham sending this one to you Cees?
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In a mirror topic to the one we have going about what new model-related stuff we have, how about one for what military relic stuff do you have? This would be rather cool to update as we get new stuff. I'll start the ball rolling with my entire port-side window frame for a Ju 88C-0. This one is from the actual machine on an AIMS decal sheet, so I suppose I should really build it. This one suffered engine failure and belly-landed on a Norwegian mountain side.
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Holy crap! What do you use for the worn effect, and how did you produce the tones on the olive drab paint?
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Something's wrong here. You're working far faster than normal. SLOW DOWN! I know what a great kit this is, and you're doing it more than enough justice.
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- fokker
- fokker E.IV
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Great work. I beat myself up over the swirls, yet you seem to do it effortlessly.
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- fokker
- fokker E.IV
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Review coming next week. I can't wait