crazypoet

I've found some interesting period references on general construction and operation of WWI-era aircraft. If you have a Google Play account, each of these is available as a free/public domain eBook download: 1. "Rotary Engines" by The Office of the Chief of Air Corps, US War Department, August 1919 2. "Aeroplane Structure" by Alfred John Sutton Pippard and and John Laurence, 1919 3. "Aeroplane Construction and Assembly" by J. T. King and N. W. Leslie, 1918 Each of these has great detail (plus photos and illustrations) of the internal workings and structures of a representative sample of British and French airframes and engines.

Nice! This gives me an idea about what can be done with the all-resin kits. Thanks for sharing this, along with the in-process Blog.

I've made a bit of progress on the keel and bulkheads over the last few days. In this model the forward and aft bulkheads are mostly hidden, but require considerable work to give them the proper shape required for individual hull planks to lay "fair" along the hull. The bulkheads are laser-cut from 1/8" and 3/16" stock, but need to be cut/sanded to their final curves before being attached to the keel. This is where a good belt-sander would come in very, very handy! As it sits, I use a sanding stick and patience - it's taking about 40-50 minutes to shape the variable bevels on each bulkhead. This is also giving me time to make some decisions about enhancements to the final build. A particular enhancement is that I want to add a pair of hinged doors to provide access to the front compartment under the gun. This will require hinges, latches and other such fun bits, which have to be incorporated before the bulkhead is glued to the keel. I'll also configure the coal bunkers to make at least one of them openable, and I'll create deck planking from 3/8" stock, rather than drawing in the plank lines as suggested in the instructions.

There is at least the beginning of progress on this. I've been wrapping my brain around how to approach this from a finishing/presentation standpoint and the impact that those decisions will have on the build. The engine is the first major sub-component to be built. It is composed entirely of white metal castings (excepting the spark plug wires and a length of brass tubing that forms the central bearing). Cleaning up the castings - including 18 (!) individual spark plugs is the first hurdle. I've begun this process, along with doing additional research on existing Clerget engines in museum collections. I've determined that I'll present this as a museum display of a "used" airframe. This means that the engine, while clean, will not be "new". So the engine structure will show some wear and the effects of heat. If I can track down a second engine somewhere, I'll add that to the display on a separate stand. I know that Hasegawa has a 1/8 version of the engine, but I've not seen any others in 1/16. Does anyone know of a source (beyond buying a second kit)? Photos to follow as I clean the parts and begin actual assembly over the next day or so.

I love this bird! I look forward to your next updates.

Nicely done! Dare I ask which magazine?

Much respect! It's a lot of slow work - I'd love to see pics

I'm looking at the Albatross as well - if this comes out nicely, I'd like to to that one as well. I'll admit to being a bit intimidated by the fact that there's nowhere to hide with this kind of kit - but the only way to get past that is to just do it.

I'll be working back and forth between this and the Camel, as I can work on one while glue is drying on the other. I opened this over the weekend and got started laminating the keel last night... Wheee!

This is the kit I've been sort of building up to. 1/16 scale skeletonized Sopwith Camel with all the bones and nerves exposed. All flight controls operational, nicely detailed engine and full rigging. The model as designed does not include the engine or gun cowlings - I'll scratch build those from aluminum sheet (should be interesting as I've not done that particular kind of metalwork in the past!). I'll also build some of the cockpit components as the white metal castings just don't look right. I'll try my hand at replicating wicker using wire-on-wire framing for the seat and I'll use real leather and silk where needed for other details. I have some thin glass sheets I can use for instrument faces - I'll try that first, and go to film if that doesn't work out. The engine will be more of a challenge, as (despite the size) some of the detail is a bit soft. I'll figure that out as I go, and will make it as close to the original as I can. I just opened the box yesterday - so y'all get to be present for the entire journey...

I love watching these come together - it gives me inspiration, along with a lesson in what's possible. Thank you for sharing your progress!

This is an inspiration! What is the story behind the scene?

I've always had a soft spot for the F-106. I look forward to watching your progress

Yep - I learned when I was submitting work for gallery shows (waaaay back when) that the quality of a photograph can make or break your work. Back then, I sprung for a professional photog when I needed, because it wasn't something that I did that often. Now, I'm going to be doing a good bit of WIP shots as well as finished work, so I guess it's time. So let me see... Airbrush, camera, lathe, milling machine, vac-form kit, home photo-etch supplies... Mrs Poet must never, ever, ever see the price tag for my "cheap" hobby! 80

I've shied away from buying a decent camera since there's just not that much that I want to take pictures of. Now that I'm back to building, though, I can see that I'll need something a bit more advanced than my iPhone camera... Thanks for all the info - time to raid the piggy bank and get something decent!

This is extraordinary - beautifully done!

This is great information - thank you! I have a related question. I'm going to need to form the cowling for my Camel build, as that part is not included in the "skeleton" kit that I'm building. Absent a lathe, is there a decent approach for converting sheet stock (or soda cans) into deep concave shapes? Enquiring minds!

The truly adventurous can go for 1/64 birch plywood sheets for interior pieces, with just an oil or lacquer overcoat for texture

Sold! I work from home one day a week - we'll have to catch up and compare notes

I just saw that - very, very cool! I live off of Bells Ferry and Towne Lake - across from Hobgood Park. It's a small world... My office, though, is down in Chamblee - making for a 70 mile RT daily commute (which is part of why my projects take so long... )

This is the model that got me back into the hobby after a multi-decade hiatus. It took about 18 months, start to finish, mostly due to scheduling difficulties. Some of the time was taken by my fumbling with new techniques and materials - experience with plastic didn't translate into wood, brass and cloth... I'm happy with the results, and look forward to the next project, where I get to integrate everything I leaned here, along with more work in Photo-Etch and metal forming.