ScottsGT

Mr. Primer and leveling thinner is the stuff!! edit: Mr. Finishing surface 1500 gray.

Starting to get there. Sanded out the filler this am and now I’m laying down more primer. Looks like I caught the majority of the sink holes. I did pull the gear doors out of the sprue drawer and primed them as well. Front doors have some nasty sink hole I don’t think I can ignore.

Chicken!

I did! I posted the link to Hyper Scale over on the X Wing thread. What’s cool is how they mounted it on a microphone goose neck of the era. I have a couple of them from my old job at a University where I did A/V work. My long 18” one is mounted on a plywood base I use for airbrush work. Somewhere I have a short 6” or 8” like they used. I’m thinking I might recreate the Roddenberry display for my plastic model.

Not trying to turn this model into a career project! There’s probably a 100 ways to skin a cat with this thing, but I just want to get along with my life and put a dent in those 300 other kits in the garage. As far as the doors fitting, pretty darned close. I had a few obvious gaps that I taped off and then loaded up with sprue goo to fill them in.

Looks like the original 3’ model of the Enterprise has been found after years of wondering who took it. Story on Hyperscale

It’s been a while since I’ve been at my bench due to the wife having a 9 day stretch off from work. Trips everywhere and then has me wrapped up in her little projects. But got a few good primer coats laid down and the low spots from sink marks started showing up everywhere. I got the ResKit wheels and tires painted as well. I’m starting to see why this kit wasn’t a big seller even though it was the only game in town forever. The weapons bay doors are horrible. And almost impossible to fill due to the raised edging. Only way I could see doing them is sand off all the detail, flatten out the low spots and use Evergreen stock to rebuild them. Those are a lot deeper than they look in the pic.

I’m honestly not sure. I bought it off another syfi forum and it was simply listed as a resin 1/350 D-7 from what I can remember.

Just assembled this one. A South Carolina gun manufacturer put out their own version of the Glock 19 since the patent times out on the Glock design. I bought the complete lower frame for $50. Shopped for the options I wanted on my slide and ordered it last week. Of course they had the same on the red dot and I had to get that one too. All in about $550

FYI, $103 shipped to a USA address. I’m gonna defer on this one. Saving for the new version of the A-20

Someone wake me up when an airfoil correction for the 1/32 comes out. So disappointed.

Yea, looked closer. But at almost $800, gonna give it a hard pass. ….Unless they want to provide one to a website moderator that’s willing to write up a review. 😇

Lookin’ great Peter!

Neat! It’s a Diecast metal kit.

1/32 F-14 Tomcat. 🤪

Blasphemy! Someone drag this heretic to the dungeon for a proper torture!

Done!

I don’t trust anything coming from the Disney factory for the past few years. But they have had a couple of good ones here and there.

When I sent my son to auto tech school he was driving a 20 yo Mustang (1995) that you had to use a timing light on it. They were working on it in class and I asked him if they set the timing. He chuckled and said they don’t teach that anymore. Haven’t had to adjust timing on a car since before Y2K. Amazed they didn’t discuss theory and what it encompasses. Hell, I went to electronics school and had to learn tube technology. But you’re very right. A skilled craftsman mechanic is hard to find because everyone is trained on OEM new stuff that pays the bills. One reason I’m so proud of my son landing his job of building classics with modern flair and highly detailed.

On my way!

Damn. I just ate and I’m hungry again.

And sadly finding schools that teach it are far and few in between. I went to Trident Tech in N. Charleston back in 1981-82. They closed the program down instead of investing in new equipment required for repairing newer model cars. When I went the instructor was an old school guy already in his 70’s. He taught me how to apply lead instead of plastic fillers. All I can say is if anyone brags about how their car is done in lead and no plastic fillers, I just ask “But why?” I’ve seen very few justifications for lead over the years with polyester fillers made now.

In a related story, my son had a 2017 Mustang GT for a short while. He got hit sitting at a red light. Bent the left front frame just a tiny bit. He took it to a shop that was not updated and kept up with technology and new requirements. He was more of an old school restoration shop. He repaired the frame the old school way using heat and pulling it back into place. GEICO adjuster signed off on the repair. Fast forward 6 months. Son hits a buzzard as it took off from a dead carcass on the side of the road. Took the car back to a real collision center. They took one look and would not touch the car. GEICO told him he was on his own. I told my son to remind his adjuster that GEICO signed off on that last repair and we can get nasty lawyers involved if they wanted to. They promptly totaled the car.

It certainly has run the cost of cars up. As mentioned before, I was a bodyman back in the ‘80’s. I kind of ignored the past profession as I worked on my retirement plans in my new career. When the “new” S550 Mustang came out in 2015 I was seeing internet postings of new Mustangs heading to the boneyard with what looked like minor damage because of the cost to repair exceeded the value. Of..A..New…Car. WTH? So I started looking into it. S550 “cage” built for safety is 13 different types of metals. Let’s say the A pillar or B pillar (door opening) gets damaged. Back in my day we could easily cut out the damaged area and splice in the new repair panel. Not anymore. Requirements now are the entire panel must be replaced and ANY associated damage it’s welded to has to be replaced and not straightened because it’s already done it’s job and probably won’t work again if needed. Ok, to get to that A/B pillar panel you have to get a few things out of the way. 1). Front, rear and side glass. And these always break coming out because they’re no longer just glass, but bonded strength of the chassis. 2). Roof skin 3). Quarter panel- has to come off, new QP required because they don’t unbolt 4). fender which means the front bumper cover assembly comes off. 5). trunk lid and hood. At least they bolt on. EDIT: 6). Also have to pull off the door and associated wiring harness that goes through the A pillar When Ford brought out the all aluminum trucks, the first one documented with major repairs was a team effort between the bodyshop, Ford engineers and a welding machine company and suppliers like 3M. Total cost for the repair exceeded the cost of the truck. If I remember correctly, it was $80,000 plus to repair, but written off as research by Ford. New welding equipment was designed for these repairs as was bonding agents. The truck spent over a year in the shop. Ford gave the owner another truck to drive in the meantime. Of course all above I’d paraphrased because it was an article I read many years ago.

Yea, mine is a bit tight at the bottom at the wing root area. I had to force it down to fit. When I get serious I’m going to put it in some hot water to try and relax the resin in place.