ScottsGT

Here’s the front of the Seaview after filling and sanding. You can see the gap that was filled.

Let me preface this with NOT MY IDEA! But I saw this on a YouTube video build sometime back. My bottle of Tamiya thin cement was getting low and cloudy so I figured “why not”? Started shaving down some sprues, nipping off small pieces and started dumping them in the cement. Let soak overnight and shake up next day. Had to add a bit more plastic since it was still too thin. But wow! This stuff is amazing to have around for filling in gaps. I just attached the window section of my Seaview sub on the front of it. Bottom gap was pretty wide and nasty. Filled in with the sprue goo, let it sit a few hours to dry and sanded it down. Gap was so big I had to apply two more layers and I’m sure I’ll need more. But I can almost guarantee if I filled this gap with putty, it would have shrank over time revealing the glue seam under the paint. Get it shallow enough, finish off with Tamiya putty. Why not use CA and kicker you say? Because it gets brittle and once it hardens all the way, it sands harder than plastic. Using goo, you can come back another day or another week and the seam will sand down just like the plastic around it. if you haven’t tried it yet, give it a shot. It’s almost free! You just have to sacrifice about 1/3 of a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement.

Ok, I bought the quart of pre-thinned clear lacquer the other day along with some glass bottles like MRP use to come in. Also went with Mr. Color flattening agent that will be here tomorrow. Once I get to a good stopping point on the Seaview build I’ll do some experiments using the clear over dried model lacquers, wet lacquers and mixing up matt and semi-gloss clears using the Mr. Color flattening agent vs. plain old talcum powder.

OK, my mind is blown over this.

Also have the Connie parts, well, most of them. Cannot believe what the radomes and nose correction is selling for on eBay.

Well, no secret weapon. Just acrylic rod mounts instead of the short plastic mounts in the kit. But I think I’m going to need a bigger bench.

I made a hole. Wait!? Could it be???….A secret weapon getting up fitted for a modern Seaview?

Looking forward to this build. Got one in the stash as well. Not sure if I want to build it as a yellow wing or what?

I think it was a guy over on LSP. Just checked, it was. User wrbrdmech/ Shane Pulliam. I brought the thread back to life and asked if he has any updates.

I’d rather have a Speedmaster moon watch than a Rolex. Now keep in mind, if someone was to offer me a Rolex, I wouldn’t turn it down!

Happy New Year Clunk! …All I got was beer and crabs.

Well after the wife burned it my retinas this morning….. Seriously, I got up when her alarm went off at 5:20 to use bathroom. I was getting a drink of water afterwards and as I was looking towards the lights that were off over my vanity, she says “Bright lights!” And flips on the light switch. We have two other sets of lights that are indirect in the bathroom. But nooooooo…. I have photophobia. Extremely painful and brought on a great morning headache. It was almost like Todd falling down the stairs when Clark’s lights came on. So I got up and started on the sub. Yep, the actual sub today! Broke out the lighting kit and started at the back…. First I had to open up the provided wiring channel for the LED. Dremel to the rescue! Epoxy in the LED and a few spots to hold the wire in place. All done and glued up! I’ll airbrush black base coat around the lights before the final color to kill the light bleed through on the plastic. Probably should have done that internally. But it does have glass lenses to glue on after painting is done. Now off to get out of my pajamas and get some yard work done since we’re possibly hitting 70 degrees today.

I’ve got a weak spot for Seiko automatic dive watches. Seems I found my niche with the Turtles. Also have a few SKX models but just never seem to wear them.

Patience! White base primer with 6-10 coats slowly built up. Well thinned lacquer that is.

Anyone know what ever came of the modeler that was going to slowly revive the Fisher line with Paul’s blessings? He was starting with the P-51 racer if I recall correctly.

But come on Harv, at the end of the night, you’re still drinking Natty Light. 🤮 Just a little stronger. We use to do a weekend camping trip to a friends shack down on the marsh in Charleston. We would all bring beer but this guy would drink everyone else’s until we ran out then he would get his cooler out of his truck. Cheap bastard would show up with natty light to ruin our evening after drinking our slightly more expensive, but still low on the food chain beer.

Ditto!

Yellow on! I’m off to lunch with the wife and shop granite for the kitchen. She seems to put the cart before the horse and shove hay up it’s ass to feed it. We can’t even get the cooktop we ordered nor does she know how she wants to handle the riser we have Glad we have 6 months for the group build now. 🤪

Seems like that one needs a little more than the tail? From BB instructions: PBY-5 to a PBN; major changes to the nose are required, including a different turret, and references are very sketchy. I just want to go with a 5A correction. Thanks though!

Check out Tena Controls or Madman Lighting. Nothing specific, but I’m sure they have a generic board you can use.

Ohhh lights…

It does have the forward interior. I bought the decals and pe to really make it pop.

Chris, cut the “Pro-Modeler” and “Invisa-clear” and see how they react when wet. My F-16 I finished last month was a 40 year old kit and the decals worked fine. FWIW, I have the regular version of the kit but I did pick up some black cat decals and I lucked up and found brass landing gear. Now I need to get that corrected tail section.

Well, bottom half has all the tools that use to clutter my work area, bulk supplies like bare metal foil, pipettes, mixing cups and cotton balls, etc.. Paint rack sits on top.