CANicoll

Your dioramas are like still-life's. Very cool looking like a moment-in-time snapshot. Kind of eerie without any people in the picture, but I think that is what I like about them - they capture a moment in time. Excellent work!

739 plastic parts, yep. 3 Springs, ok. 35 screws um, sure. Wait, what? 10 CHAINS???

Brilliant!! Wish I had thought of that on many previous builds....

Jeff, Congratulations on your daughter's promotion! That is amazing. Thanks for sharing!!

I'll second that!!

Wow, no kidding! I wonder how many they had in stock at the beginning of the sale. Out of stock now...

Gents, thank you! I have been using the Medea cleaner for the acrylics like Vallejo, a bit of Model Master acryl thinner and cleaner that I use for the MM Acryl, but the Medea works fine for that, too. Like Peter, I try and stay within the manufacturers range. Simple lacquer thinner from the DIY store for all of the lacquers such as MRP, Alclad, and Model Master Metalizers. I usually do strip down my airbrush after every paint session - the Iwata HP-C is so easy, the GREX is a bit more of a challenge as the needle comes out, but I prefer not to pull it back through the body, I do the 'reverse flush' as recommended, but that does not remove all of the paint residue. The GREX nozzle is a bit harder to remove than the Iwata so I find myself not doing it as often as I should. I do have some of the Iwata Blue airbrush lube that I gingerly apply to the needles that I slip back into the airbrush body.

From the BNA Website: Take flight with our latest flash sale! For a limited time, enjoy a massive 50% off on the iconic 1/32 Consolidated B-24D Liberator by Hobby Boss. This is your chance to own a piece of aviation history at an exceptional value. Link here. $77.81 Please note: To allow as many enthusiasts as possible to enjoy this offer, purchases are limited to one kit per customer. Hurry, this offer is only available while stocks last!

Ernie, Just saw this... whoa. SO CLOSE, but glad to hear you and all are ok. Wow...

OMG! How many pieces are in this kit???? Looks fantastic!

Very cool to see the progress! Thanks for sharing.

Freed the weapons pylons from their 3D printed frames. I found three tools very useful in separating the part from the 3D printer links: Xuron 9180 PE sheers (right side of photo), nippers, and a knife with an #11 blade. Where the Xuron scissors don't fit, the #11 blade does a nice job on the thin connections. The #11 blade does a good job of cutting off any nubs (shaving) and then a final smoothing with a medium/fine grit sanding board. So far so good!

Made some progress test fitting the wings to the fuselage. The cool thing about the Tamiya set up is they use screws to hold the wing bottom to the fuselage and the wing top to the wing bottom. Looks like there will be a little bit of a seam to deal with on both sides of the fuselage, but nothing extreme. Also the two scoops on the side of the nose needed some filler but may still need a bit more blending. Right side: Left side: From the top: Added the two scoops on the sides of the nose. These will be painted the camo color in the final scheme. Taped up and ready for the primer coat and underside color.

OMG. OK, I just figured out (from what you said) that if I attach the tubes to the burner cans the entire assembly can slip in afterwards. Doh!!!! THIS is exactly why I appreciate your comments and suggestions so much. And I am EXACTLY at this point so your advice is incredibly timely - thank you!

THANK YOU Martin!!!!!

Kevin, that is beautiful wood - I turn pens but have not used Padauk yet. You definitely have good taste in wood. I blew about $100 of Canarywood trying to get a cribbage board cut properly on a CNC machine. The 3D cuts were beyond the ability of the machine to consistently cut. FINALLY got it to work. Your model work is terrific, too!

John, that is interesting. I don't recall having this specific problem with my two Revell P-51D builds (but I also bookmarked your 'More Revell Fixes' Thread which is wonderfully helpful). I usually use the Aerocraft canopies to address the narrow windscreen and the wavy canopy problem, with the AMUR resin flaps to solve the 'valley' effect Revell flaps suffer from. Trying to find my build threads of those Revell Mustangs.

Carl, The work you are doing is awesome! What a cool subject and you are killing it. Wow! Nice work on the replacement flaps - definitely a better profile and fit. Excellent.

Peter, still amazed at the amount of detail you are able to pull out of the Eduard kit. I agree that their 1/48 efforts are terrific but you continue to make the best of a terrific kit. Excellent shading on the fuselage fuel tank - nice work! I've gone through the same canopy challenge. Especially in 1/48 the differences are so small.

The only 1/32 Revell kit I think is good is the new P-51D. That one is a pleasure to build with some AM bits. But it has a really nice cockpit.

Carl, VERY helpful, as usual, thanks! Definitely appreciate the tips. I was thinking I needed to add the coaming to the fit and this is perfect timing. I do have some flat styrene to add. The challenge I have with the burner cans is that I'm not sure where to anchor the exhaust tubes the cans are attached to. The styrene pieces have a flat part which is attached with a screw, but the resin tubes do not have a ready attachment point. I just had the thought to cut off the resin tubes and attach the flat bit to the resin tubes. This will get the tube off the floor of the wing and should help with the can fitment. Lots to work on!

Martin, Love this work. What material did you make that bag out of? That is amazing. Very cool detail work, like dropping the armor plate. In the bottom photograph above, what is that liquid seeping out of the lefts side of the fuselage? Any ideas?

That Paudauk is nice wood but you finished it beautifully - a nice complement to your build!

Had similar problems on my Revell Me262 B-1a/U-1 Nachtjäger "Red 12". I think I actually glued the fuselage from the bottom first to try and minimize that top seam - it was brutal. The wing root gaps were pretty pronounced, too. Oh well, one to work on later. Good luck with the Corsair.

John, that cockpit is beautifully done. Wow. Your dry brushing is top notch.