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JeroenPeters

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  1. Hi Wumm! Great idea! Just drew up a ww2 era leather soccer ball and sent it out for 3D printing.
  2. Used panel line was all over and sealed it all in wirh a flat coat. I used different shades if green to show these rockets were often transported in sections on trains and then trucks. They were hidden in the woods and assembled in the field. Started using variaous shades of pencils for highlights and light chipping. also ordered a nameplate to show tge location this V2 was discovered by the young boy.
  3. Change of plans! The Mig colours were waaaay of... so i turned to a late war scheme as they would have been fired from the Netherlands. All green. It’s going to be a challenge to make this look interesting but it’s getting there...
  4. Cheers guys! not enough time for modelling these days, but this is where i’m at. Started painting the cradle.
  5. Lovely! Interesting technique with the drill. Need to try that some time. keep m coming!
  6. 1/32 Paint Mask Set for Avro Lancaster B Mk.I (Canopy and Windows) DN Models Catalogue #32/827-028 Available from DN Models for $21,99 Introduction Here’s a look at a must have, if you are planning to build the Hong Kong Models Lancaster. This is an easy statement to make, since nobody takes pleasure in hand cutting the masks for this huge greenhouse. This set is the second set that is available for this kit. The other being the insignia and numbers mask set: available hereand our review here. In my opinion the full insignia and numbers mask set is a must have too, since using decals on a model this size is something you should try to avoid. The set I’m sure brands like Montex, Maketar and Eduard will release their own mask sets for this kit, but I doubt they will include masking for the inside of the glazing. This however is a necessity since the inside of the canopy framing (for instance) is a different colour than the outside. HK Models tells you to mask the outside of the canopy, spray the interior colour (black or interior green) and then spray your camo over that, so when looking inside your model, you’ll see the first sprayed colour (black or interior green). Yes, this is one way to go about it, BUT there are two reasons not to follow this road. First: you’ll end up with a shiny interior colour. Second: you’ll lack the idea of the interior canopy framing. Mind you: this already is a weakness with the HK Models kit! The Wingnut Wings kit will offer an interior frame, but (as far as I could spot at Telford) this will all be square framing. The real thing had three different framing materials. Casted, Round (middle section) and square (wood, rear section). Conclusion: masking the inside of the canopy, spraying a thick layer of black is a pretty neat solution for creating the illusion of an internal canopy frame. The vinyl is easy to lift by bending the paper slightly and using a scalpel and sharp pair of tweezers: I use a wooden toothpick to rub the vinyl down properly: Excellent fit: If you’re curious to see the construction of the Lancaster canopy frame, check this. Below you can see a section of mask on a curved surface. Three of these sections make up the entire contour. Fill the mid section yourself: Another thing I like is the material. In my review on the insignia and numbers mask set I wrote about the differences between kabuki paper masks and vinyl masks (like this). For very rounded surfaces I prefer kabuki paper. However: if the technique is used for strong rounded surfaces to break the mask up in several contour sections, where the modeler needs to apply the mid section himself with fluid mask of masking paper, I prefer vinyl. Montex mostly supplies black vinyl masks. This has a big disadvantage: you are not able to see through the mask. This sucks, because it’s more difficult to tell whether the mask is positioned well, AND you are not able to tell whether it’s down well. In other words: whether it will allow paint to creep under it. I usually use a wooden toothpick to rub the mask down into the corners. The wooden toochpick won’t damage the mask. Here's a look at the Cc and Dd sprue with all HK's transparent parts: To sum it up - This set covers ALL transparent parts in the kit. Gun turrents, fuselage windows, canopy, nose dome, lights. - This set includes both internal and external masks for canopy and turrets. - This is a matted transparent vinyl set. - The accuracy and fit is excellent. Verdict You’d have to be a masochist not to get this set if you plan to build the HK Models Lancaster. I’m sure this set won’t fit the future Wingnut Wings kit, but at the same time I’m sure DN Models will release a special set for that kit when it arrives. If you just finished hand masking your canopy… I’m sorry. PS: check whether your fuselage windows are supposed to be clear, or painted over, like some were. Very Highly recommended. Jeroen Peters Our sincere thanks to DN Models providing this mask set for review.
  7. I believe all these sets have the same flaws. I’ve eyeballed two different sets. Both were warped...
  8. Yes there was. Check the reference photo’s a few posts back. These things were quickly built with light and easy to obtain materials.
  9. Sprayed the inside of the compartment light wood. Now adding wood grain decals.
  10. Nice!! Looks like quality stuff. You going on a bend?
  11. 1/32 Paint Mask Set for Avro Lancaster B Mk.I (Numbers and Insignia) DN Models Catalogue #32/827-027 Available from DN Modelsfor $21,99 Introduction Today we take a look at a ‘complete’ mask set for the HK Models Lancaster, which ofcourse will also be applicable for the future Wingnut Wings Lancaster. The brand behind this mask set is new to me, but as the logo states has been around since 2013. Founder and owner Mitko Nikitov sent us these masks after we came into contact through his HK Models Lancaster review. His website shows an extensive range of mask sets for all scales. We being Large Scale Modeller ofcourse only look at the 1/32 and 1/35 sets, which include masks for the B-24, Do-335, Me-262B, A-4 Skyhawk, Starfighter, etc… The branding, look and feel and product looks very professional. Therefor we’d like to welcome Mitko with his DN Models product range to Large Scale Modeller! The set When comparing the quality of this product to other suppliers of masks sets, I’m tempted to look at Montex or Maketar, because the same kind of material is used. There are people that prefer the Kabuki paper (like is almost always used by Eduard and is also offered by Masketar) and there are people that prefer this rubbery, plastic adhesive like we have here. To me it definitely depends on the type of curved surface we’re working with. Plastic tends to have a sharper edge but is more difficult to work with on rounded and strongly curved areas. In this case, the case of the Lancaster, I would definitely prefer this material over Kabuki. The complete set: When people ask me whether I have started my Lancaster build I answer with a strong ‘No’. The reason is that I think using decals for the roundels on a kit this size is a no go. No matter how good you are in getting rid of silvering with setting solution, you will always see a decal was used. Besides: on roundels this big I love to play with contrast and shade insides the large red and blue areas. Fading, chipping… all things that are near impossible with decals. Here's my recent finished Wellington (48th scale) on which I used only masks. The roundels bland in with the model and are sprayed very thinly. Alongside this full mask set for the numbers and insignia DN Models has released a canopy mask set for the Lancaster, which we will look at in a separate review. This is a first for them in this scale and we’ve seen them do the same for the B-24 kit. The mask set includes three sheets with all insignia and numbers to build any of the three options included in the HK Models kit: AR-G B.MkI, W4783, No.460 Squadron, RAAF, Binbrook, United Kingdom, May 1944 The ‘G’ for George is a WW2 survivor with 90 operational flights and can be seen today at the Australian War Memorial in the Anzac Hall. What I like is that the serial number W4783 in reality shows small interuptions in the letter W and numbers 4 and 8. This is because masks were used in reality as well. These small interuptions are also present in the paint mask. PO-S B Mk.I, R5868, No.467 Squadron, RAAF, Waddington, United Kingdom, May 1944 ‘S’ for Sugar. When looking at reference photo’s of this aircraft (I’m talking about photo’s of the RAF Museum in Hendon) you’ll things like a large ‘S’ above the flash on the tail. This ‘S’ does not show up in earlier wartime photographs. Make sure you use wartime photographs of this plane and be sure to pick a certain time period, since this plane was altered in many areas. Think of needle props vs. paddle props for instance. The Cookie bomb carried by PO-S features hand written text: 100 NOT OUT. Even this artwork is included in the mask set. This hand chalked marking was done to indicate the 100thmission of this plane. OL-Q B Mk.I, R5868, No. 83 Squadron. RAF, Wyton, United Kingdom, June 1943 ‘Q’ for Queen. You might notice the same serial number on this plane. This is because this plane started out as OL-Q where it flew with the RAF, and was transferred in September 1943 to the Australian RAAF and received codes PO-S. This set does not replace all the decals provided with the HK Models kit. Only the larger ones’ you really want to spray. The mission nose art of PO-S, ground crew instructions, etc.. are not included. The large square you’ll find on one of the sheets is not mentioned in the instructions. This is ofcourse the marking for the life raft on the top side of the right wing. Verdict This set is (in my eyes) a must have for anyone building a large scale Lancaster. It’s complete, easy to use (easier than Kabuki in my honest opinion. Especially in this large size), and it’s well produced. No small corner inaccuracies that can cause masks to tear were spotted. Mitko was quite critical on the absence of colours in the HK Models kit instructions. We can say that he makes up for this in his own way by adding colour in his own instruction sheet. Well done Mitko! The only thing that I would have maybe added is an instruction on how to use these kind of masks. Many modelers lack experience in this craft. Make sure you use a marker to draw a large X over the roundels. This makes it easier to reposition the removed sections. And use masking tape to holy the letters, roundels and numerals in place while transferring them to your model. When in doubt: ask a fellow modeler on the forum! Highly recommended. Our sincere thanks to DN Modelsproviding this mask set for review. Jeroen Peters
  12. Hi Iain, I use a dremel with a sanding boll for the first rough work. Then I use a round scalpel to smoothen the dent out and then I smooth it further with really fine wet sanding paper. Takes a lot of time and patience. More to do.
  13. Thnx guys, bought a book today on V weapons in the Netherlands. The pic on the cover shows another clear example of oil canning on a V2. Pretty dramatic.
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