JeroenPeters

1:32 DH.9a ‘Ninak’ Post War Wingnut Wings Catalogue # 32061 Available from Wingnut Wings for $119.00 with FREE worldwide delivery With this Post War Ninak the DH9 line is complete: Starting with the rather underpowered and somewhat ungainly AMC DH9 and followed by it’s impressive Liberty-engined DH.9a offspring. Actually the line-up would be even more complete if Wingnut Wings would release the earlier DH.4 as well. After all: many components (like the wings, fuselage structure, tail, etc..) comes from this predecessor. With it’s Rolls Royce engine and square nosejob it even looks more like the Dh.9a than the DH.9. One of the changes made between the DH.4 and DH.9 is moving the pilot more aft to enhance communication between the gunner and pilot. This was done by placing the oil tank in front of the pilot, giving the Ninak it’s long nose in the process. By the way: The word ‘Ninak’ comes from Nin = 9 and Ack = A. I can recommend the Windsock datafile 141, volume 2 which features a lot of inspirational interwar photographs. (Windsock Datafile 139 also offers some nice Post War Ninak photo's) In my reviews I like to compare releases when different versions of the same type are available, so when you are contemplating buying a DH.9, you’ll know where the differences can be found. Off course the differences between the DH.9 and DH.9a are obvious, but between the Wartime Ninak and Post War Ninak they are not. What I won’t do in this review is marvel at the quality of the injection moulded parts and detail. We all know what to expect of these kits and are never let down. First of all let’s take a look at the different release dates: • AMC DH.9 (kit number 32035): December 5th 2013 • DH.9a ‘Ninak’ (kit number 32007): December 2010 • DH.9a ‘Ninak’ Post war (kit number 32061): November 27th 2016 All 3 years apart. So who knows? By 2019 we’ll see the DH.4? J Check this link to see this (the only) restored flying DH.4. The kit As always we get a rather small box cramped with sprues. No space is wasted. While laying them out it becomes apparent that many parts won’t be used or that we get a lot of options here. Different engine covers, radiators, fuselage sides, exhaust stacks, etc… And then there’s a huge sheet with decals and ofcourse some PE. I will cover the assembly of this kit step by step and compare it to the earlier DH.9a. This will help you decide (apart from the schemes) which version to choose. Since I have already built the wartime version, I know what’s coming and where to be cautious. Sprue A (tail, fuselage frame, cockpit floor) Step 1 (Cockpit) Here we construct the basic cockpit elements. Control column, rudder bar, firewall, cockpit sidewalls… This step shows the exact same parts as the early version. Check this page from the Windsock Datafile 139 with a comparison of the Post war (top photo) and early Ninak cockpit arrangements: Step 2 (Cockpit continued) This is where we spot the first differences. The wartime version had older compass type 5/17 installed in the middle of the control panel. The post war version has several different options. The later compass pattern 253 mounted horizontally on the right side and the engine ignition switch for the Liberty engine on the left (instead of the right with the wartime version). This is also the part that lets you install the PE seatbelts. I always recommend using the HGW version. As they are the same for both versions I guess you could get the set for the wartime version for this kit. The next page shows a collection of walkaround photo’s from the cockpit and this page is the same for both versions. The rigging diagram for the cockpit is what follows and yes, this is also identical for both versions. Step 4 (Liberty V12 engine) Since both versions were powered by the same engine, it’s no surprise that these steps and parts are again identical. What does strike is that the post war version instructions do not carry photo’s of the real engine. The wartime version does. So if you want to see these, check the WNW website for them. Find them on page 8. Sprue E (Liberty Engine) Step 5 (fuselage) Here we go! What we see is that the post war version had upgraded stitchings on the side of the fuselage where linen is connected to the forward fuselage. Also: the footsteps on the right side of the fuselage need to be removed with a scalpel and are placed on the right side in the form of PE pieces. Sprue G (Fuselage): Optional creased or smooth linen sides. Above and below. Step 6 (fuselage continued) A few subtle changes can be found here. The first being the option for a few schemes to cut a hole in the upper rear deck for a storage locker, covered with PE. Another small detail is the option for the Aldis gunsight to be placed on the left side. This may have been on personal request by the pilot at hand. And last we see external cable fairings on the left side of the fuselage, whereas they run naked along the side on the wartime version. Step 7 (Radiator & Engine cowlings) There are a lot of different versions of the DH.9a cowlings. Those built by Mann and AMC on the early versions with their own small differences on the bulges on the radiator sides. And the ones’ built by Vulcan and Westland on the post war version. With the Vulcan built version showing black painted brackets, hinges and fairings. You can really tell a lot about the Ninak by just looking at it’s nose! When studying a Ninak photo, this is what to look at. Step 8 (Tailplane) Where the early version instruction really point out small differences in wire arrangements on the Mann and AMC version, the Post War version does not offer any options and keeps things simple! Step 9 + 10 (Wings and Struts) Where the lower wings and struts show no differences, the upper wings do. Scheme D (Berwick built Australian machine) features leading edge slats. These really add something to look at to the rather big, plain wings. Another interesting post war feature we see here is the auxiliary petrol tank. This would be a reason to opt for scheme A or B that wereflown over Iraq and had to cover great distances. Sprue B (Ailerons, wings) Sprue F (lower wings, fuselage bottom and prop) Step 11 (undercarriage) When looking at these parts the Post War version clearly had a reinforced undercarriage with added metal brackets and a split axle, possibly for extra suspension during take off and landings. Some Westland machines even had extra rigging wires, so again: check your references carefully! There are a couple of wheel cover options. When I go through the Windsock book I see a couple of schemes without wheel covers, revealing the spokes. These are not included, so when you want to show them, you’ll have to contact Steven Robson. Actually I see many photo’s of post war machines without covers… Sprue D x2 (wheels, struts, radiator) Don't forget to hollow out the exhaust stacks! Sprue J (Gear legs and wheels, instrument panel) These curly parts below are also not present on the early version. The are called 'screw down' and are connected to the wing end brackets. Step 12 (Details) Another striking addition to the post war machines is the huge auxiliary radiator. These were especially fitted on the middle eastern stationed machines and add a lot of character. Sprue C (Clear parts) Step 13 (Propellor and bombs) The post war machines offer a bigger choice of ordnance. Where the early machines lets you choice between 4 x 20lb Cooper bombs or 1 x 112lb bombs, the post war version gives you: • 4 x 20lb Cooper bombs • 1 x 112lb bomb • 2 x 112lb bombs • 1 x 230lb Mk.1 bomb • 2 x 230lb bombs Most of the DH.9a’s had covered propeller blades in a mid grey color. This saves you buying a real wooden prop for replacement or getting artistic with oil paints. J Sprue R x2 (Payload): Step 14 (Lewis Gun & Scarff Ring) This being a post war machine, mainly used in a ground attack role, the post war version offers the choice between a single Lewis gun. This can be assembled with or without the cooling jacket as reference dictates. The early war time machine however has the option of installing the cool double Lewis arrangement. The photo etch with the Scarff Ring and additional fuselage stitching: Step 15 (Final Assembly) The one detail I’d like to focus on here is the spare wheel. Where most (to no) early war time machines do not feature this, most post war machines (especially those operating in the middle east) do. You see them installed on the side of the nose or fuselage, on the underside (below the pilot or further to the rear). Like so: Or so: The decals look sweet and superbly registered as always. The only thing WNW decals need is enough Micro Sol: Schemes: A: DH.9a E9939, 8 Sqn RAF, Iraq, mid 1920s. This would be my choice! The auxiliary fuel tank and radiator and spare wheel slung under the fuselage with a lot of scope for wear and weathering. B: DH.9a H3510 'L', AC Jones-Williams & Benson, B flight, 8 Sqn RAF, Iraq, 1923 to 1924. Another cool option with a red tail, and like scheme A operated over Iraq, so with the same addition of cool details. C: DH.9a H3552, 39 Sqn RAF, UK, June-July 1923 This machine was used for flight training over Hendon. D = DH.9a A1-17, E Flight, 1 FTS RAAF, Australia, 1922 Black struts and optional leading edge slats. Flown for flight instructions over Australia by the Australian Flight Corps. This plane suffered a crash, so if that’s the diorama you have in mind, this might be your choice! E: Polikarpov R-1 'AMYPA', 19th Special Aviation Group, USSR, 1929 This is the Russian license built version of the DH.9a which saw action in the Soviet-Chinese conflict. Where the paintjob might be a bit un-interesting to the eye, the decals make up for it. Again a lot of opportunity for weathering. The Polikarpov machine also differs in the unique gun synchronizing system and the addition of an empty belt chute on the side of the forward firing gun. Verdict Post war (or interbellum) machines tend to be viewed as less sexy by modelers and I usually tend to agree. The schemes became more colorful, the weapons became less and the weathering options are narrow. However, in the case of the post war Ninak I think the machine became cooler. The middle eastern operations that demanded the most of the men and machines, the additions for long flights (radiator, fuel tank, reinforcements, bigger payload and extra fuel tank) add more character to the Ninak. Weathering may include the effects of superfluous sunlight, sand and drought. Having already built the earlier Ninak I can tell you that this seemingly complicated model is a breeze to build and stands on sturdy legs (not something you can say about every WW1 plane in 32nd scale). Yes, the quality of this kit is super, but this is no news. The RAF PC10 color has been replaced by Silver Dope, protecting the linen from sunlight. This is combination with the unpainted silver cowlings and black trimmings, make for quite an impressive plane that will stand out between the wartime subjects on your shelf. I love it. The finished article: A solid 9 out of 10. (This could have been a 10 if the Photo Etch included spoked discs for wheels without fabric cover.) My sincere thanks to Wingnut Wings for expanding the DH.9 family and for providing the review sample. Get your Post War Ninak here, before it too is sold out! Kind regards, Jeroen Peters

I have never seen these in our scale... Sorry..

Very enjoyable so far. Adding washes to the engine gondola:

The secret to our success

This is true. You told me this.

Cheers Cees! Painting the engine now. Inserted the bearers and resin engine and adding decals now.

Wow! Nice kit. I'm sure Jose Brito could do magic with it!

Is it a love-shack?

Pretty amazing stuff! Hope to see one built soon. Awesome review too!

Managed to get some done. Almost finished the jigs. Just need to add some oil stains and more scratches to the edges and sorts. Sprayed my first ever Mr. Paint RLM 71 on the engine gondola. Wow..... A dream to work with.

Heads up guys! Schatton Modellbau has just informed LSM of their imminent release of this beast of a model. A huge amount of photo-etch makes up the dish. Just imagine the diorama possibilities with this subject. Here's a look at the box-art: And here's a look at the photo-etch: I know of one surviving example in the Liberty museum in the Netherlands (Overloon) which is undergoing restoration at the moment: Stay 'tuned' for more info!

Cool beans Ralph!

Nice one! Nice and dark. Cheers, Jeroen

Lovely! Love the stand too. Now go assemble a prop.

some good old scratching going on here! Nice work so far! Loving it!

Well anyhoooo .. i went from spraying the mat to smudging, chipping and oiling the rigs! Much more layers, pigments, etc.. to be added to the wood.

First paint! Looks smooth!

It's one of my special powers!

First paint on the jigs. First base with Matt black. Then Freshly cut wood by AK. This will be further built up with several wood colors from the AK range.

Saw it on his FB page. Super cool... He dropped the model during construction but managed to whip it back into shape! Respect..

Nice! Have this in tge stash and will have it pull a Captured Rumpler fuselage. Very nice!

Wow! Another stock of Green card going to a good cause!

Tanker Extra Armour Techniques Magazine Issue 02 Publisher: AK Interactive Chief Editor: Kristof Pulinckx Available here from AK Interactive for € 9,- What we have here is a mix between the typical modelling magazine and a ‘how-to’ book, bounded by a niche concept amongst armour modelling subjects: Added Armour. AK Interactive are really bringing these magazine technique titles to a higher level, by means of well known and respected authors that contribute, appealing topics and well executed design and printing quality. They’re easier to pull out when starting a certain project, instead of rummaging through a thick bible and trying to place it somewhere on the bench. Added Armour Exotic Armour Conversions are a thing of all times, but lately we see a rise in apocalyptic subjects, fluently blending in with WW2 and modern subjects. Perhaps spurred on by series like ‘The Walking Dead’ and movies like ‘Mad Max’. Figure brands like MAIM, Not-Yet-Dead and even Master Box are jumping on the wagon and provide us with half rotting plastic and resin figures. But zombie apocalypse field modified vehicles are not the only armour that apparently needed added armour. This title also features modern and WW2 vehicles with bolted and welded on plates of steel. This magazine teaches us how to work the surface of these plates in order to make it look rugged and life-like, how to paint and weather it and how to add some convincing battle damage. The magazine: Let’s take a look at this title article by article and see if it’s worth getting (and worth the 9 euro’s). The first thing I check when flipping through a magazine in the local hobby shop is how much of the paper is wasted by adverts… Well, these are kept to a bare minimum in this case. 8,5 out of 102 pages are used up with ads for mostly AK Interactive products. So all is fine in that department. Another thing to look at is the paper it’s printed on. This is a glossy, heavy paper magazine with a glue bound back. Definitely not something to shove in the kitty litter box when through with reading. And it will survive a couple of builds on the bench, which is a good thing, since that’s actually what it’s designed around. The introduction is written by well known modeller Kristof Pulinckx who has some wise words about the theme J. The next pages add a little more history to the topic and elaborates on the beginnings and development of added armour. This issue has no less than 18 articles varying from Mad Max, Zombie, Ukranian, modern and ww2 armour. All with one thing in common: Heavily used and battered and all upgraded with extra steel. The first article is written and modelled by Lukasz Orczyc-Musialek who build an Ukranian BMP-2 in diorama setting. This vehicle has added armour in the form of tree trunks and side impact armour covering the road wheels. Most of the modelling steps are covered. From primer, chipping medium, pigments, dry brush, oils, punch and die, and so on… Of course mostly AK products are shown in these steps, but I appreciate the fact that these are not used exclusively, as everyone knows modellers almost never use just one brand. Glad to see Lukasz in keeping it real . The same goes for 2 builds down the mag. Martin Red Kovac builds a very heavily up-armoured Jackson and paints and builds it with MIG, AK, Tamiya, Life Color and Wilder Pigments. Almost every step in his painting and building process is photographed elegantly and the result is hard to beat. I guess the best result a magazine like this can obtain is letting us use and experiment with new materials. Stepping out of our comfort zone. Contents: As said this magazine offers 18 articles: • Battlefield Taxi BMP-2 (by Lukasz Orczyc-Musialek) • Up Armored Krupp Protze (by Kristof Pulinckx) • Serbian Jackson (by Martin Red Kovac) • Lebanese M-113 Field mod during “Nahr El Bared” Battle (background info by Samer Kassis, model by Imad Bouantoun) • Zombie Slayer , diorama with Hummer and Zombies (by Kristof Pulinckx and Roberto Ramirez) • Buick Max Apocalypse (by Ricardo Chust Roig) • Marder on Steroids (by Sven Frisch) • Uparmoured Vehicles Refences. Photographic reference for modern US softskins (by Ralph Zwilling) • Painting Impact. A how-to tutorial on how to create convincing battle damage. • Sandbags with Magic Sculpt. Another tutorial on how to create your own sandbags. • School of techniques. This chapter continues to teach us how to create impact, cast turret textures, solder large pieces of brass and how to create your tool to replicate screws in the armour texture. But also how to modify your plastic cement in order to fill small gaps and create weld seams with putty. • Gallery: The magazine closes with a 5 page photo gallery with amazing up armoured models to spark the modellers mojo if that hasn’t happened already. Very cool stuff. Last but not least The final pages of the magazine are taken up by no other than David Parker. He shows us his bench and talks about his passion. A pretty neat insight into this skilled and prolific modeller. Verdict If you’re into armour or just dipping your toes into the ‘dark side’, then this might come in handy. As said before, these magazines tend to pull you out of your comfort zone and make you experiment with new materials. It’s not just a shopwindow for AK Products, and I think that’s a good thing. A magazine worth keeping at hand and it should proof a 9 euros well spent. A big thank you to AK Interactive for the review sample. Jeroen Peters

Very impressive work! Love the mix of 3D printed parts and total old school scratch building...

EXACTLY!