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17 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

Right with the guys ...  your building speed and gorgeous work is exceptional. Masking looks perfect.

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

Thank you, sir!

 

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Quick update for tonight.  

Got a little bleed where I didn't want it on the spinner.  I'll ruminate on the best way to rid myself of it. 

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In the past, I've made masks for the wood laminations and never been satisfied because the masks just don't like to wrap around the blade.  So...  instead of buying a prettier, nay perfect propeller from somewhere else, I drew and painted by hand.  I also played mad scientist.  I used clear yellow at first, and it was too yellow.  Then I sprayed clear orange...  didn't like that either.  So, I decided to make clear brown.  To do this, you add clear blue to the clear orange.  But it is too easy to go to a ugly green.  So...  What to do?  Added clear red and got this lovely shade.  Now...  you may notice some scratches.  In all of my test painting, the color got ugly and too thick.  So I tried to gently sand some off...  with 2000 grit wet/dry and water.  Too much too fast...  you can still see the scratches.  But...I decided to keep them.  I think they add character.   The Axial decals are the roden decals.  On second thought, I should have grabbed something from my WNW boxes.

 

I also unmasked the fuselage skulls:

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I'm feeling lazy, and have put the plane in it's dustproof container.

 

Happy modelling!

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Noice Gaz, if I would be a wood worm, I would choose your prop for dinner. I have to try this hand painting technique of yours, it looks great. BTW. do you use acrylics or/and pencils for the job?

Cheers Rob

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Realistic looking prop Gaz! I will keep your method in mind when I do the prop for my D VII. The Skull on the spinner is THE eyecatcher!

Also nice result with the skulls on the fuselage.

Don‘t put it aside Gaz. Please continue. Will be an awesome bird when finished!

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18 hours ago, DocRob said:

Noice Gaz, if I would be a wood worm, I would choose your prop for dinner. I have to try this hand painting technique of yours, it looks great. BTW. do you use acrylics or/and pencils for the job?

Cheers Rob

Thank you, Rob.  I used both, actually.  I drew it with the Mig dark rust pencil, then painted the dark segments with Mig Orange brown.  I did some streaking with the pencils, but is didn't survive well.

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17 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Realistic looking prop Gaz! I will keep your method in mind when I do the prop for my D VII. The Skull on the spinner is THE eyecatcher!

Also nice result with the skulls on the fuselage.

Don‘t put it aside Gaz. Please continue. Will be an awesome bird when finished!

Thank you,Kai.  I haven't put it aside for any other reason that I was tired, and I like to let the paint harden before I mask over it.

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12 hours ago, Jeff said:

The prop is outstanding.............. and I am in for all ideas and techniques for prop painting.....

 

Thank you!  I'm at the point where I'll try anything.  I just refuse to buy a prop that somebody has done with laminated wood and machine tools. 

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5 minutes ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

Gorgeous prop and thanks for sharing your technique - spot on and looking so good

Keep ‘em comin

Peter

Thank you!

 

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5 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you!  I'm at the point where I'll try anything.  I just refuse to buy a prop that somebody has done with laminated wood and machine tools. 

I had the same thought, but thought about trying to carve one myself next time. I could steel some planks from my wooden ship model and laminate them, before carving. But I try your method first, because I didn't like my last try with masks too much.

Cheers Rob

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2 minutes ago, DocRob said:

I had the same thought, but thought about trying to carve one myself next time. I could steel some planks from my wooden ship model and laminate them, before carving. But I try your method first, because I didn't like my last try with masks too much.

Cheers Rob

I did a little research about doing my own that way...  with real wood.   Even tried it.  ....and watched other guys doing it.  Laminating the layers....  waiting for them to dry...   Trying to pare it down evenly.  ...and thin enough and still get the right shape.  Stopping to look and measure after each whittling or grinding session.   But it's never thin enough...  until it's too thin.  Failure after failure.  Life is too short.  If I had a programmable mill...   maybe.

 

I have tried painting by hand before.  But I had never drawn it on first.  That really helped with brush control.  I made one mistake, but I have a spare brush on hand with a big cup of water.  So, I just hit the error with water and washed it away before it could dry.  The joy of regular acrylic paints.  The base was a Tamiya very light brown...  almost pink.

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Thanks for your thoughts Gaz, reading them, makes me even more sure about painting the prop like you did, next time and maybe when time comes, I mean like having the deep desire to build an Italeri Mirage, then  skip that for a self made wooden prop ;).

Cheers Rob

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Hello friends,

Wing paint on...  Wing masks off.

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No paint lift yet!  Let's keep our fingers crossed.

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Great progress Gaz. 
Nice looking camouflage and the painted on markings are really much better than any decal.
Did you mix the camo-colors by yourself? Colorful bird!

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1 hour ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Great progress Gaz. 
Nice looking camouflage and the painted on markings are really much better than any decal.
Did you mix the camo-colors by yourself? Colorful bird!

Thank you Kai.  The camo colors are all either RAL or a mixture of RLM, gray and white.  The underside is RLM 65 with a little blue added.  Prior to the green and lavender, German planes (as far as I understand it) were red-brown, green, and light gray with blue undersides.  Because there will be a lot of use of oils, I'm not overly worried about the original colors.

 

One thing I've learned over time is to check the online wargaming community.  There are some great aircraft skins, usually done after a lot of research saving the modeller a lot of time if he wants to use them.D2_top.jpg.5d5c4b37eeeb05ffaa4ebaae6e55052e.jpg

 

 

 

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At some places, the creator of the skin has to submit it for approval amongst his peers who vote upon his ability to interpret the historical images correctly in accordance with what they know.

 

 

 

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Today's modelling ends after I pull off the masks from all of the markings.

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Funnily, there still parts I need to use which I haven't even removed from the sprue.

 

Happy modelling!

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Splendid looking paintjob Gaz, the Alb will look great with some oils, blending everything together.

Cheers Rob

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4 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Splendid looking paintjob Gaz, the Alb will look great with some oils, blending everything together.

Cheers Rob

Thank you, Rob!

 

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I’m joining this watch party a bit late, so I’m way, way up in the nosebleed section where the air is rare. Got my oxygen mask on though, so I’m good. 
 

Stunning build so far, Gazz, especially the strengthening of the struts. My one Roden Albatros D.l resulted in me scratching struts from brass and aluminum tubes and wire.  It worked well, especially after bracing with mono line. 
 

I’m going to try your method though. It looks much less tedious. 

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12 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

The skull on the fuselage and the spinner will be an eyecatcher in addition to the camo!

Thank you, Kai.  I still haven't resolved how to clean up the spinner.

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5 hours ago, Clunkmeister said:

I’m joining this watch party a bit late, so I’m way, way up in the nosebleed section where the air is rare. Got my oxygen mask on though, so I’m good. 
 

Stunning build so far, Gazz, especially the strengthening of the struts. My one Roden Albatros D.l resulted in me scratching struts from brass and aluminum tubes and wire.  It worked well, especially after bracing with mono line. 
 

I’m going to try your method though. It looks much less tedious. 

Thanks for coming by, Ern.  I've noticed you seem rather busy lately.  No big deal.

 

The wing struts are relatively thick and lacking in details.  So I used .5mm rod.   But I think it will be tougher on thinner struts.   For instance, I don't think the cabanes on the D.II-D.Va would be thick enough to even mess with.  I do have some .2mm copper wire which can be straightened by twisting.  So, I'll try it on my other Roden kits when I can.  I have a Roden D.III OAW built kit in the stash, and I'm going to save the D.III struts included in this kit for spares.

 

Re:  The prop...   this was probably the quickest one I had ever done if you subtract the time I spent mixing the Tamiya clears.

 

Full scratch is cool...  but like you I don't want to spend too much time on it.

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