Jump to content
The Great LSM Twins Group Build ends July 3, 2024 ×

1:32nd scale Mosca-Bystritsky MB bis fighter


Recommended Posts

Hi all,
The basic tail unit is done.
I disregard the entire kit supplied parts, apart from the elevator halves.
Basically the resin was badly moulded and with no reinforcing rods.
Also short shots and the rudders were the wrong shape.

The tail skid and its support frame are made of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.8, 1.2 and 1.4 mm diameter Brass tube or rod.
T two rudder were cut and profiled from 0.8 mm plastic card.
The photo-etch control horns for the lower rudder and elevator are from the ‘Jadar’ WW1 1:48th scale control horns (S48087) set.
Most of the assembly is a loose fit at it all can't be fitted as a complete assembly until later in the build.

So, now it's onto some final details on the fuselage before construction starts,

Mike

taildone1.jpg

taildone2.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, HubertB said:

Impressive as usual, Mike. Can we say that the existence of a resin kit prompted you to scratch build a 1/32 version of this bird ?
 

Hubert

:D It feels like a total scratch build, but having built 'Omega Models' resin kits before, I knew what I was in for.

Basically I wanted to build one version of every WW1 aircraft type available in 1:32nd scale.

I've collected, and still do, a version of every aircraft type made in 1:32nd scale.

This includes top end manufacturers down to the bottom end of the market.

This is the last of those kits I have to build.

After this one, I should be able to build a resin or styrene model without so much scratch work.

 

Mike 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,
The last strut work is now finished.
This is the mounting frame for the machine gun.
One version of this aircraft carried a Colt machine gun, fixed to the forward fuselage and fired through the propeller arc.
The propeller was protected by Nieuport type deflector plates.
The version for this model had a early Lewis type machine gun that was fixed at an upward firing position of an inverted V frame.
This fired the weapon over the arc of the propeller.
This mounting was made from 0.7 mm diameter tube with 0.3 mm diameter internal and wrap around rod.
The replacement 'GasPatch' machine gun had it shoulder stock removed, as the weapon was most likely fired by operating a cable from inside the cockpit.

Now at last I can think about actually building this model!!

Mike

gunmount3.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,
The pre-shading has been applied to the fuselage, wings and flight surfaces.
I've attempted to represent the engine as best I could, given that the kit supplied moulding is the worst I've seen.
The single piece engine is misaligned so there is a step at each side of the cylinders.
Only 6 inlet manifolds were in the kit, there should be nine (replaced with spare 'Roden' manifolds).
No valve gear or push rods or spark plugs either.
The kit engine had to used as no other replacement engine would fit inside the engine cowl.
In fact I had to remove the top of four cylinders to get the kit engine to fit (the can't be seen in the cowl).
I've used the resin propeller in the kit but replaced the centre boss plate with a spare 'GasPatch' part.
I've discarded the kit supplied wheels and replaced them with 'GasPatch' spoked wheels.

Mike

preshade1.jpg

preshade2.jpg

engdone.jpg

propdone.jpg

wheelsdone.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,
The linen decals have now been applied.
White primed base coat, polished then pre-shaded with 'thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
The decals were cut from a sheet of the ‘Aviattic’ Clear Doped Linen (CDL) bleached (ATT32044).
The Russian cockard decals supplied in the kit are ink jet printed and not 'cookie' cut.
Typical of these type of decals, that are very easily surface damaged, before or after application.
If possible, I'll probably airbrush the cockards using templates - we'll see.

Mike

cdl1.jpg

cdl2.jpg

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,
I thought of replacing the Russian markings using masks and airbrushing the three colours.
However, aligning concentric circles accurately and without over spray was always going to be tricky.
Therefore I decide to print the decals instead, using an Inkjet printer, not Laser.

This is the process I used:

Create the decal in Photoshop Pro software or similar.
Test print on paper to check size.
NOTE:  As the centre of the Russian markings are white, I used Mr. Decal White decal paper, to avoid the surface below the applied decal showing through too much.
Place the decal paper into the printer feeder tray with the glossy side facing up.
Adjust the printer setting for the paper to ‘Premium Gloss Photo paper’ or equivalent and set the print resolution to high.
Print the decal sheet.
Leave the printed decal sheet for several hours to allow the ink to fully dry.
NOTE: During the following step, do not apply too much sealer over the decals, as it can flood the surface and when dry cause a ’fish eye’ effect. Also spray at a shallow angle to the decal sheet, not at 90  degrees and at a distance of 12 inches or more away. Wear a respirator and spray in a well ventilated area.
Apply a several light coats of sealer over the decals, using such as ’Krylon’ Acryli-Quik acrylic lacquer or similar.
Allow each coat to thoroughly dry before applying another coat.
Check decals are fully covered and sealed with the clear coat.
NOTE:  If using White decal paper, make sure you cut around the decals as close to the outline as possible, to avoid the white decal paper showing at the edges.
Carefully cut as close as possible around the decal to remove it from the backing sheet.
Make sure the model surface is smooth and has clear gloss acrylic coat, such as ’Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600 or similar.
NOTE:  Adding PVA adhesive (white glue) to the water, used to detach the decal from its backing paper, can improve adhesion of the decal to the model and help prevent ‘silvering’ (trapped air) under the decal. Also take care not to ‘stretch’ the decals when removing the water.
Apply the decals to the model as for standard water slide decals.

Mike

markings.jpg

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,
A bit of progress.
The carburettor air intakes, engine landing gear and wheels have been fitted.
Also the tail unit, consisting of upper and lower rudders, tail plane, control horns and rudder/elevator control lines.
Finally the tail skid assembly including the 'bungee' type suspension cords.

The next step is to pre-rig the wing warping control lines and bracing wires before the wings are fitted,

Mike

stage1.jpg

stage2.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amazing !

Can I ask a question, because it’s one I can’t find an answer anywhere. What diameter are the Gaspatch wheels ? I am looking for this type of wire wheels for a project I have.

Thanks in advance.

Hubert

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, HubertB said:

Amazing !

Can I ask a question, because it’s one I can’t find an answer anywhere. What diameter are the Gaspatch wheels ? I am looking for this type of wire wheels for a project I have.

Thanks in advance.

Hubert

Hi Hubert,

The wheels are 22 mm diameter (including the tyres).

They are from 'Gaspatch' and represent British made 'Palmer Cord' 700 x 75 tyres.

The wheels and tyres are separate parts.

For this model I sanded off the tyre lettering,

 

Mike

 

https://www.gaspatchmodels.com/spoked-wheels/

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,
I've pre-rigged the two wings with 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube, 'GasPatch 1:48th Type turnbuckles and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament.
A line is passed through a tube and turnbuckle then back through the tube and secured.
The free end of the line is then passed through a hole in the wing and a tube and turnbuckle added.
The end result if a free moving and double ended turnbuckle, which should self-align when the landing and wing warp lines are attached to the free end of the turnbuckles.
The two V struts are also fitted with wing warp control cables fitted to the rear strut.
Finally, I've added the tail plane control lever and cable to the fuselage underside.

Now onto fitting the wings and support frame,

Mike

wingprerig.jpg

vcables1.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...