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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Fw190 A8/R2"Black 8", 11./JG.3


rieser

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Great pins Grant - not seen such things before.

 

Some Tamiya XF-80 Royal Light Grey undercoat to hide the construction sins, followed by a few "RLM76" shades mixed from of Gunze's H417 RLM76, Tamiya's XF1 Flat White and XF-23 Light Blue.  All cut with lacquer thinner but left to dry for 2 weeks to be safe. 

 

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"RLM75" started with squiggles of XF-77 IJN Grey (Sasebo Arsenal)...

 

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... then filled lightly with a 9:1 mix of Gunze H69 RLM75 and H49 Purple...

 

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... and finished with a 1:3 mix of XF-77 and H69/H49.

 

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Underside insignia painted using a couple of shades of faded black based on Tamiya's XF-85 Rubber Black and XF-63 German Grey, masks from Mal Mayfield.

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Simply beautiful work Ralph.

 

I too would be interested to know what setup you use and, also (if it's not a trade secret) what air pressure you're using to get such fine control...

 

EDIT - in line with your answer above, that's pretty impressive and is a clear example of craftsman getting the most out of a tool....

 

Matt

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Matt:  not secrets.  Prefer to use Tamiya acrylics and depending on the application, cut anywhere between 70 and 90% with their lacquer thinner.  Pressure gauge reads about 20psi most of the time.  The control really is average at best - I simply can't get smooth freehand lines without at least 2mm of overspray with the AZTEK.   Have to try to hide it all under the weathering.  I have played with a Tamiya HG SuperFine AB, but just can't get the hang of it.

 

Dave:  update as ordered...

 

Similar approach.  XF-74 Olive Drab (JGSDF) squiggle and XF-65 Field Grey infill...

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... 4:1 mix of XF-24 Dark Grey and XF-85 Rubber Black for the "RLM75"...

http://s260.photobucket.com/user/rhiese/media/Fw190%20A8R2%20Black%208/3AS_zps5ae55d14.jpg.html'>3AS_zps5ae55d14.jpg

 

69424.jpg.html]4AS_zps60369424.jpg]

 

[url=http://s260.photobucket.com/user/rhiese/media/Fw190%20A8R2%20Black%208/5AS_zps2737a8d7.jpg.html]5AS_zps2737a8d7.jpg

 

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... fuselage mottle was toned down with some of the underside colour mix.  Matt:  the demarcation between the upper colours and the fuselage colour shows the overspray issue.

 

Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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cheers mikestar - yes...  they can be a bear!

 

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... red outline painted using 3:1 mix of XF-7 Flat red and XF-9 Hull Red...

 

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... exhaust area painted XF-85 Rubber Black and streaked with 1:1 XF-68 NATO Brown and XF-69 NATO Black...

 

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... cowl painted 3:1 XF-8 Flat Blue and X-18 Semigloss Black.  Rick:  too blue perhaps?

 

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Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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I don't see anything wrong with your paint work, it looks great although I can see where you are not happy with it, but the real aircraft probably had those issues. I use the 470 as well and love it to pieces but find if it starts to give spatter overspray there are two reasons; you need to get a new nossle or the body has gunked up pretty good, not allowing the needle adjustment mechanism to function properly.

 

If anyone is interested I can post a photo essay on how to disassemble and clean the inside body of the A470. I also presume you take apart the nossle after you use it and clean it out? If not, do that too.

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Thanks for the comments Gents.  Feedback/critisism always welcomed.

 

Bevan:  I'm not sophisticated enough to know what the colours for "Black 8" at the time of the photos would look like in scale so I'm going for "in the ball park".  That said, the colour chips in Ken Merrick's books would suggest that - for factory fresh paint at least - the shades could be quite a lot darker.  Will see what the model colours look like after some weathering.

 

I try not to look at the cowl!  Will take some pics once the area's be disguised with some weathering.

 

Brad:  yes, I agree - and I do the tip cleaning.  I use a new tip for each new model.  Makes for a very expensive airbrush over time.  Will be keen to read your photo essay as the trigger action has got somewhat doughy - feels like it may well be gunked-up inside.

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Brad:  yes, I agree - and I do the tip cleaning.  I use a new tip for each new model.  Makes for a very expensive airbrush over time.  Will be keen to read your photo essay as the trigger action has got somewhat doughy - feels like it may well be gunked-up inside.

 

Tutorial posted.

 

You don't need a new tip for every model. I've been using the tip I have currently for over 5 years. They will wear out eventually, but if you are popping the spring and needle out the back of it and cleaning it each time you use it, they should last ages. I fill the tip with thinner and leave it for 5 minutes, then run a pipe cleaner up the end and all the crap goes flying out the nozzle.

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Thanks for the tutorial Brad - always something new to learn.

 

Masks by Mal Mayfield from Miracle paint Masks in the UK and some masking tape on the way to the landfill...

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... mask centres weeded out.  Wanted to try adding some variation to the black markings, similar to that seen in the reference pic...

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... Hakenkreus in 1:1 XF-85 and XF-24; Balkenkreuz in XF-24; and "8" in 1:1 XF-1 and XF85...

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...mask centres back in; other bits out...

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... tried for solid white on the "8", and a mottled white on the Hackenkreuz...

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... something odd about the "8"...

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... no... the "8" 's fine...

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... can be difficult reading the colour/density in such small areas - could have varied the Hackenkreus colours a tad more...

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... the XF-80 Royal Light Grey for the dotted lines worked a little better.

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Suggestions/critisism always welcomed.  Thanks for looking.  Cheers, Ralph.

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