Jump to content
The Great LSM Twins Group Build ends July 3, 2024 ×

ZM Bf 109G Hartmann


Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Rob

Thaks so much as the biopsy results for myself and my wife were truly a gift as I still remained cancer free and in full remission.

Can only blame myself and will exercise more care in both ordering and using paints and assuming nothing. To add insult to injury, I have a dedicated AB for acrylics and it sat there, watching the fiasco take place. 🙃 

Right now, I'm still trying to figure out; is the wing and upper fuselage cammo hard edge or free hand - always something.

 

  

Thats great news Peter , I'm glad for you both.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Rob

Thaks so much as the biopsy results for myself and my wife were truly a gift as I still remained cancer free and in full remission.

Can only blame myself and will exercise more care in both ordering and using paints and assuming nothing. To add insult to injury, I have a dedicated AB for acrylics and it sat there, watching the fiasco take place. 🙃 

Right now, I'm still trying to figure out; is the wing and upper fuselage cammo hard edge or free hand - always something.

 

  

My 2 cents is the camo is soft edge sprayed like I did mine and most all mid to late war German a/c. Early war saw a lot of hard edge.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10cm overspray , everything till the very end of the war was running on RLM orders. Differences were given by the manufactured Erla,  MTT-Regensburg or the  Wiener-Neustadt (WNF) and visible mostly on the fuselage. Subcontractors played major role as well, that's why you can observe a slight differences for instance in tail sections or cowlings etc.

SJMKgER.thumb.jpeg.cd99e20d98c7d198a398cceddafa423b.jpeg  

2Y21Hsc.jpeg

920ydHf.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
On 4/15/2023 at 4:47 PM, GazzaS said:

I know how you feel.  I hate to wait on things to do a model.  My Spitfire is at a standstill because I won't be doing an in-box scheme.  So many ppl wanna do DW-K that there is no way I'll do it.   So, since I am waiting, I can't paint because I don't know whether it'll be A or B.  Night-White, or sky(or whatever it's called), Dehavilland or Rotol.  Patience is not my thing. 

Eagle and Barracuda both make nice Spitfire l decals, FYI 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Kev

Learning as I'm going and you are so right about the black primer- what a pain it has caused. Anyway, this morning I finished the cammo free hand and I'm close, but I could have feathered the edges even more for a much softer, blended look. need to take a mulligan on this one as it's the first German Cammo I've ever done.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks John

Followed your advice as close as possible and the cammo is all free handed and done. I'm in the ballpark but looking at the 109 drying, it's as good as I can get without masking or using worms. I'll see how it looks when the paint is thoroughly dry and then do an update. Have to admit, it's harder then I originally thought.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Thanks John

Followed your advice as close as possible and the cammo is all free handed and done. I'm in the ballpark but looking at the 109 drying, it's as good as I can get without masking or using worms. I'll see how it looks when the paint is thoroughly dry and then do an update. Have to admit, it's harder then I originally thought.

 

I look forward to seeing it!!! :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Thanks John

Followed your advice as close as possible and the cammo is all free handed and done. I'm in the ballpark but looking at the 109 drying, it's as good as I can get without masking or using worms. I'll see how it looks when the paint is thoroughly dry and then do an update. Have to admit, it's harder then I originally thought.

 

You really need to use paper and worms.  This will give you a more realistic finish with no 1/1 scale overspray.  Even for 'late war'.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gaz

After getting back to the bench when I finished chemo, I needed to use paper and worms for doing cammo as my hands weren't steady enough when air brushing. With a lot of practice, I finally reached the point of being able to freehand cammo again. Worms or paper wouldn't have resulted in a more feathered edge then what I have now. Looking at the cammo, there isn't any overspray at all, I was just hoping for a little softer color demarcation between the colors.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

After getting back to the bench when I finished chemo, I needed to use paper and worms for doing cammo as my hands weren't steady enough when air brushing. With a lot of practice, I finally reached the point of being able to freehand cammo again. Worms or paper wouldn't have resulted in a more feathered edge then what I have now. Looking at the cammo, there isn't any overspray at all, I was just hoping for a little softer color demarcation between the colors.

 

 

 

If you want to soften demarcation, you can lightly spray the area with a little self-levelling thinner or apply a filter. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

IT’S CAMMO TIME

When it comes to understanding the colors and application of Luftwaffe cammo on its WWII aircraft, I’m a rank newbie, as the 109 is first attempt after all these years. I seem to spend way too much time on paint and color decisions and the 109 was even more, totally new ground. I went with what I read, the classical trifecta of: RLM 74, 75 & 76. With RLM 76 and RLM 75 applied in one long day, it was time to face the music and figure out how RLM 74 is applied. John B came to the rescue as how to apply the cammo, late the night before and I had my road map – for Hartmann’s 109, it was going to be freehand, soft edges. I saw Martin’s post a bit too late as I had already finished airbrushing very early that morning. Food for thought for future projects.

Weapons of choice: MRP paints and my H&S Infinity Plus with a .2 tip at about 10-12 psi working pressure. Starting at the horizontal stabilizers, I worked my way forward and a few hours later and the air brush work was done for the day.

Looking at the finished freehand cammo, I thought the edges could be a bit softer.

Lastly the RLM 04 Gelb Yellow for the fuselage stripe and the bottom of the wing tips. Careful masking and all was good.

I had already primed and painted the spinner, prop, the canopy (inside and outside), gear doors, tires, wheels and the drop tank, earlier in the build and all the components are now ready for glossing and decals. The spinner was shot with Tamiya Gloss Black Lacquer and when dry, the white spiral decal was applied – had to be the hardest part of the build! I’ve purchased numerous bottles of my ‘go to’ gloss clears, so I wouldn’t run into the same situation as on my last build.

 3nyM3H.jpg

ww7Rc9.jpg

xcEbLH.jpg

XU9uU7.jpg

 

 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Thanks Kev, feels good to have finished the major air brush work and decaling is just around the corner. 

 

 

23 hours ago, GazzaS said:

You really need to use paper and worms.  This will give you a more realistic finish with no 1/1 scale overspray.  Even for 'late war'.

 

No matter what anyone else says Peter I think the paint looks just fine.😐

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...