Administrators Clunkmeister Posted June 25, 2023 Administrators Posted June 25, 2023 Gaz, are you using the kit gun covers, or the Eagle Editions part? Somewhere, I KNOW I have Henri Dahne prop for this kit. I can’t believe that after all these years, the only 190s I ever built were the long with 152H’s. 🤡 2
GazzaS Posted June 26, 2023 Author Posted June 26, 2023 All OOB Ernie except for gun barrels and seat belts... and a tailwheel winging it's way to me from Michigan. 2
GazzaS Posted June 26, 2023 Author Posted June 26, 2023 Alright... after the first round of HGW rivets. All I can say about HGW rivets is that I am unable to get consistent results with them. One panel will come out perfectly... and it's mirror image will have floaties... rivets that have drifted away from their allotted position. But they are so fine... that if you don't sand to make them show... they won't be seen. Here are some pics: I still prefer them to the rivet wheel. 6 2
GazzaS Posted June 26, 2023 Author Posted June 26, 2023 Alright... after the first round of HGW rivets. All I can say about HGW rivets is that I am unable to get consistent results with them. One panel will come out perfectly... and it's mirror image will have floaties... rivets that have drifted away from their allotted position. But they are so fine... that if you don't sand to make them show... they won't be seen. Here are some pics: I still prefer them to the rivet wheel. 5
DocRob Posted June 26, 2023 Posted June 26, 2023 7 hours ago, GazzaS said: All I can say about HGW rivets is that I am unable to get consistent results with them. I amen that, to nearly all HGW products, I ever used. Wet transfers, masks and sometimes even the seatbelts need adjustment, special care and whatever it takes, but it's easy to bust with their products, like the wet transfers. I guess, the process is the same with the rivets, having a carrier film, later to be removed. To finish my rant about HGW-products, their masks rarely fit and some detail sets, I bought were partly unusable, like the paper wood inserts for the Hansa Brandenburg or their wood decals . The seatbelts, I do like mostly, but some needed extra trimming of the width for fiddling them through the buckles. I don't understand it with HGW, they do have a very interesting portfolio, but a bit more of testing would help to improve their quality. Sorry for the rant Gary, your riveting job looks absolutely fantastic and I can't wait to see it under paint and maybe slightly sanded. I have no idea, how the Eduard rivets behave, which I have for my P-38. They may be produced by HGW too. I will give them a try soon. Cheers Rob 4
Peterpools Posted June 26, 2023 Posted June 26, 2023 Gaz Absolutely completely agree, they blow away my Roise the Riveter rivets. Your rivet work looks mighty good. 2
GazzaS Posted June 26, 2023 Author Posted June 26, 2023 8 hours ago, DocRob said: I amen that, to nearly all HGW products, I ever used. Wet transfers, masks and sometimes even the seatbelts need adjustment, special care and whatever it takes, but it's easy to bust with their products, like the wet transfers. I guess, the process is the same with the rivets, having a carrier film, later to be removed. To finish my rant about HGW-products, their masks rarely fit and some detail sets, I bought were partly unusable, like the paper wood inserts for the Hansa Brandenburg or their wood decals . The seatbelts, I do like mostly, but some needed extra trimming of the width for fiddling them through the buckles. I don't understand it with HGW, they do have a very interesting portfolio, but a bit more of testing would help to improve their quality. Sorry for the rant Gary, your riveting job looks absolutely fantastic and I can't wait to see it under paint and maybe slightly sanded. I have no idea, how the Eduard rivets behave, which I have for my P-38. They may be produced by HGW too. I will give them a try soon. Cheers Rob Thanks, Rob. The worst thing about the rivets is they sometimes just float off. It is even more likely to happen if you trim close to the rivet. As a consequence, I leave at least 5mm between the rivets and the trimmed edge of the carrier film. It's not like a decal where you want to get rid of the carrier film. But it really makes it difficult to get the sheets to lay correctly if your extended edge happens to lay over a raised detail. Removing the carrier film is a tedious process as well with this batch. On the 109, the carrier film came off pretty easily. But on this 190 it is a struggle. 4
BlrwestSiR Posted June 27, 2023 Posted June 27, 2023 Great rivet work Gary. Interesting to hear from you and Rob the inconsistencies you've both experienced. I have the 109 set they included with their re-boxing of the Dragon kit but haven't built it yet. 2
GazzaS Posted June 27, 2023 Author Posted June 27, 2023 4 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said: Great rivet work Gary. Interesting to hear from you and Rob the inconsistencies you've both experienced. I have the 109 set they included with their re-boxing of the Dragon kit but haven't built it yet. One of those things we have to remember is that decals and transfers all have a shelf life. Ten years down the road, I'll bet any of these sitting in the stash won't be usable. 2
Martinnfb Posted June 28, 2023 Posted June 28, 2023 Beautiful surface detail Gary. I hate to say it, but Hasegawa made a mistake by positioning the gunsight too back, protruding through the edge of the IP panel cover. Sorry man I didn't see that sooner, thought you knew about that. 1
KevinM Posted June 28, 2023 Posted June 28, 2023 Gary ...Martian just luvs playing whack a mole with you 😂 2
GazzaS Posted June 28, 2023 Author Posted June 28, 2023 On 6/28/2023 at 2:37 AM, KevinM said: Well it looks quite Nice Gary!! 7 hours ago, Martinnfb said: Beautiful surface detail Gary. I hate to say it, but Hasegawa made a mistake by positioning the gunsight too back, protruding through the edge of the IP panel cover. Sorry man I didn't see that sooner, thought you knew about that. Thanks guys. I should have known it. But I forgot. Because the pit of the 190 is so simple, I rarely even look at pics any more. But now you put a bug up my a55. I might have to do something about it. 1
GazzaS Posted June 28, 2023 Author Posted June 28, 2023 9 hours ago, Martinnfb said: Beautiful surface detail Gary. I hate to say it, but Hasegawa made a mistake by positioning the gunsight too back, protruding through the edge of the IP panel cover. Sorry man I didn't see that sooner, thought you knew about that. Eh... gonna leave it alone. 3
KevinM Posted June 28, 2023 Posted June 28, 2023 58 minutes ago, GazzaS said: Eh... gonna leave it alone. Smart and if our Boy Martin hadn't said anything I never would of known. 2
GazzaS Posted June 29, 2023 Author Posted June 29, 2023 More HGW Rivets... There's nothing else... no cool painting tricks or fancy construction. So, if ya don't like HGW rivets or the patterns on the 190... have a great day! Anyway... .....about HGW rivets.... ....Working with them is like dating two women at once. You don't want them accidentally bumping into each other. So you have to work in segments. The other day, I laid down the outer upper wing panels and 1/2 of the dorsal fuselage panel aft of the cockpit, as well as the port horizontal stabilizer panel. So, that enabled me to do flanking panels over the guns and the flaps today. There are a couple lessons learned here... This panel over the MG's will have a lot of rivets showing when I am done. It was a panel that was moved often, so beat-up, it will be. If you follow the yellow lines you'll see rivets that look a bit rough. This is what happens if you don't get them down fast enough. They were on a narrow piece of carrier film, and ended up not looking so neat. Another point you may have to deal with is working with a close, but not exact version of the aircraft you're building. The rivet set if for the A8... so, here at the blast troughs, some fixing will be required. Speaking of fixing... you'll notice the yellow dashed lines. They are where an accident occurred. After putting on a panel of rivets, I set the cowling down, and the carrier film must have been jarred, slightly moving the panel and pushing the rivet lines up a tiny fraction. So, the remedy was to wet sand the out-of-place rivet line with 6k grit micro mesh. Easy. I'll just use a free line of rivets later. I'll have to do the same process around the blast troughs. Anyway... thanks for looking! 6 1
KevinM Posted June 29, 2023 Posted June 29, 2023 1 hour ago, GazzaS said: More HGW Rivets... There's nothing else... no cool painting tricks or fancy construction. So, if ya don't like HGW rivets or the patterns on the 190... have a great day! 😂 it's looking good Gary even if you are no longer of any sanity. 2 1
GazzaS Posted July 2, 2023 Author Posted July 2, 2023 Spent most of my time at the club meet painting this guy's uniform with acrylics yesterday. Will do a pinwash later. 5
Peterpools Posted July 2, 2023 Posted July 2, 2023 Gaz Awesome work on the rivets - going to look brilliant under the color coats of paint. As always, some mighty nice figure painting. 1 1
GazzaS Posted July 7, 2023 Author Posted July 7, 2023 Thank you, Peter! He was a good figure to paint. But the more I look at him, I think he is greatly out of proportion. A smallish head on a giant body with extra long legs. 1
GazzaS Posted July 7, 2023 Author Posted July 7, 2023 Welcome back. I'm ready to call the riveting done. I probably could have omitted many of the rivet decals. I don't want them all to show, and I did skip some. The ones that will show will be in areas where the crew have frequented. But I thought I would use a lot of the set anyway. You'll notice a few spots where the paint has been removed in dots and odd places. I reckon this comes from two causes. A: I sand it smooth and the paint may have been very thin. And B: The acids in Mr. Mark Softer ate through the thinned paint. Of course, decals don't stay attached to places where paint has been removed. Luckily it mostly happened on the underside. Thanks for looking! 5 1
DocRob Posted July 7, 2023 Posted July 7, 2023 Seeing your progress with the rivets makes me wonder, if I should go that tedious route with my P-38. Anyway, the result is looking great and I cant wait to see them under paint. The figure looks fantastic, I especially like the slight gloss on the leather jacket. Cheers Rob 2
GazzaS Posted July 7, 2023 Author Posted July 7, 2023 27 minutes ago, DocRob said: Seeing your progress with the rivets makes me wonder, if I should go that tedious route with my P-38. Anyway, the result is looking great and I cant wait to see them under paint. The figure looks fantastic, I especially like the slight gloss on the leather jacket. Cheers Rob It really depends on what your goals are, Rob. I intend to only show the rivets in areas highly frequented by pilot and crew. If they all show, it won't look right. I'm leaning toward a Schlachtgruppen on the Ost Front. I read a book by a pilot who was in such a unit, and he flew multiple missions every day, dawn till dark trying to provide support for the ground troops. It sounded like their machines had little time for intense cleaning. 4
Peterpools Posted July 7, 2023 Posted July 7, 2023 Gaz Awesome work on the riveting and congrats on finally competing a very tedious part of the detail/build. 1 1
GazzaS Posted July 7, 2023 Author Posted July 7, 2023 Thank you, Peter. If it weren't for the extended drying times, it would be a breeze. 1
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