SOD Trumpter P-47 "Sigma Nu Girl"-Finished

[KevinM]

I started this one some years ago have lost the front windscreen 2/3 times and found it again(thought I would graph the Hase).This will be my first time using mask for the letter code and insignia provided by Montex.I usually keep my fighters clean but this girl gets the full layout 500lb bombs with rocket launchers(Hasegawa).I have only three unfinished kits after this from the SOD.

[GusMac]

You'll probably be fine as you've done an OD scheme but I did a NMF earlier this year and the Montex masks ruined the build by leaving residue all over the Extreme Metals. I was doing the Black Panther scheme and there was no way of removing the glue residue without stripping everything right back and the enthusiasm didn't extend that far. I did the stars n bars before the metals so it was the fuselage and tail codes that caused the problem, The masks were only on for just over 24 hrs, so I didn't expect the problems I had.

[KevinM]

Thanks for the tip Gus do you think it be wise to coat with a future clear maybe?

[GusMac]

9 hours ago, KevinM said:

Thanks for the tip Gus do you think it be wise to coat with a future clear maybe?

Would probably help as I didn't do it on mine as it was the first NMF I'd done and wasn't sure about the best option. I think the problem was mainly the reaction with the Extreme Metals so hopefully because you've gone OD it won't be an issue.

[Peterpools]

Kev

Always awesome to see SOD builds back on the bench, finished and across the line. You Jug looks mighty good in her OD paint and best to get the windscreen on before any relatives of the carpet monster grab it again.

I'm terrible with SOD stalled builds and a good portion make the turn towards the bin and never return, while there are a few I do need to revisit. 

 

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Nice subject Kevin!  Good rescue from the SOD.  

I used Montex masks for the insignia and letter codes on my Buffalo build, and they worked great.  I'm a big fan.

[KevinM]

So here's my first attempt at using production mask and by Montex.The event is a bit time consuming for me but give it that it's my first rodeo.The "P" was positioned about 1/8" to low and the "stars/bars" about a 1/4" to high got to redo it no bigee.Gary the mask pulled off some OD over some grey I call it my mistake it had been painted literally 45 mins earlier me impatient I say.I do not know if anybody has used this Mr.Color re-conditioner but the stuff is excellente. I brought back some MM Insignia Blue tonight that just about ready for the trash can.I am off tomorrow night will give it another crack I do like the effect!

[JohnB]

Looking good so far Kevin. I've used masks a few times but the thing about them is if it's a little off and you don't see it until after painting then you have to go back and re-paint everything. The beauty of using decals IMHO is they can be "adjusted" in place so, usually, there's no going back to re-paint, etc. Easier process for this lazy old man! LOL

[KevinM]

4 hours ago, JohnB said:

Looking good so far Kevin. I've used masks a few times but the thing about them is if it's a little off and you don't see it until after painting then you have to go back and re-paint everything. The beauty of using decals IMHO is they can be "adjusted" in place so, usually, there's no going back to re-paint, etc. Easier process for this lazy old man! LOL

I have to agree with you on that one John but it could be one of those things were practice makes perfect the ole eyeball learning the trade?I may give it a shot a few times but if I get no better............

[Spitfire]

I use masks on all of my builds with varying success rates as I am pretty useless at decal taming, they always silver and never lay down for me whereas paint works (for me).

It can be very tricky at times working out the sequence of painting, a lot of times I paint the markings area first then apply the mask and paint the overall colours over it, sort of reverse masking.

Here is my Revell Spitfire ready for the masks, the Sky band has been painted and masked off.

Cheers

Dennis

[KevinM]

The mask are complete though not perfect I think it will function well enough for my first Rodeo it's all decals from here on out.I can pic it apart this here and that there so if I am grading myself I go 80/C,I'll take it.I also do not think this is the end of my Rodeo career. Well here's the pics warts and all.

[Peterpools]

Kev

Nice work on using the masks - the results look terrific.

Guess I'm so very old school, but my preference is still using decals. When I built my ZM 109, I did use some masks and was very pleased with the results. Compared to decaling, way more time consuming and for me at least, way too many more chances of missing the mark. But for numbers and codes, absolutely full proof and no worries about silvering.

[KevinM]

Decal and stenciling has begun I think the "Girl" might fit quite well into the cabinet.

[KevinM]

8 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Compared to decaling, way more time consuming and for me at least

That I understand Peter but their may be a place for me atleast down the road?

[Peterpools]

Kev

Got ya 👍

 

[KevinM]

She might come out a good looking "Girl" after all?The canopy is not glued down and neither is the tank.The 250lb bombs are drying and need to be weathered .The whole model got covered with Tamiya brown wash with a 1/2" brush sit for thirty minutes and started the wipe.I then came back over that with Tamiya light dust on the upper surfaces and sand on the bottom.The flat clear went on very low pressure and light from a distance so as not to soak the pastels then you can lay it.The prop was painted silver way back and Nato Black very thin on top use a knife to chip.The wheels is the most I have ever gone after a set and think it will pass AK mud paint mixed with the Tamiya pastels from earlier thinking the mud was a waste here but needed to play with it.She's going to look the work horse when done!

[Peterpools]

Kev

Absolutely a stellar build and your Jug looks the part -beautiful work.

On my next supply order, I'm adding Mr.Color Re-Conditioner and going to give it a try. For what paints coast these days and who the solvents seem to evaporate so quickly, looks like it's just what the doctor ordered. Thanks for the tip.

 

[KevinM]

5 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Absolutely a stellar build and your Jug looks the part -beautiful work.

Thanks Peter teaching myself some here trying to whip that fear factor on weathering.

5 hours ago, Peterpools said:

looks like it's just what the doctor ordered.

The stuff has already brought back a few bottles Model Master already.

[PanzerWomble]

All good , those stencils turned out well . Shes' a cute girl  . 

Few thoughts if you reckon on stencilling more ....numbers 1 2 3 are easier to stencil  than 8, 9 or 0 if you get the choice of serials 😀

One of the joys is that you can sand/scratch through stencils !!

Can be hard to line up when you get started ...I use thin masking tape (5mm) to edge the bottom and one of the sides , means you can line it all up with the masking tape and.........then just plonk the stencil in place when its all peachy straight

I learnt in 1:1 painting that getting the tape off quickly helped with less ridging or paint tearing , I do the same with Masks, once its dry I take em off. Not sure if that helps with residue transfer or not , but not an issue i've had using Oramask 810

I took the plunge bought a Silhouette ...$200 ....never looked back . Dead decals , don't fancy the box option , CBA with silvering or decal soft ...20 mins on the cutter and off you go . 

 

 

[KevinM]

48 minutes ago, PanzerWomble said:

All good , those stencils turned out well . Shes' a cute girl

The stencils are decals on this one Guy this was my first attempt at mask.

48 minutes ago, PanzerWomble said:

Can be hard to line up when you get started ...I use thin masking tape (5mm) to edge the bottom and one of the sides , means you can line it all up with the masking tape and.........then just plonk the stencil in place when its all peachy straight

I will remember that for the future as a guide I had a hell of a time with the fuselage getting what I wanted and still not that good but hey it's the learning curve.I want to get more confident on the weathering side myself like you guys are in armor I smothered the girl in wash and played it back with the powders were I felt it was to strong it worked.I have another 1/32 started years ago in a box the Revell Me-110 Nachtfighter to which it seems I have about 50% pit done may be the next to hit the desk.

 

PS: You see the stars/bars upper wing were I forgot to cover with future I went aughhh FFFF...........then I went oh well might still work.

[PanzerWomble]

2 minutes ago, KevinM said:

The stencils are decals on this one Guy this was my first attempt at mask.

I will remember that for the future as a guide I had a hell of a time with the fuselage getting what I wanted and still not that good but hey it's the learning curve.I want to get more confident on the weathering side myself like you guys are in armor I smothered the girl in wash and played it back with the powders were I felt it was to strong it worked.I have another 1/32 started years ago in a box the Revell Me-110 Nachtfighter to which it seems I have about 50% pit done may be the next to hit the desk.

Sorry totally my bad, what you call "masks" correctly .....I think of as a "stencil" .

 

Whereas in our hobby context "stencils" means instructions painted on an aircraft ....probably through the use of masks IRL  LOL .

 

Have a think about using some artists oil paints for weathering maybe ? If you like don't like the effect a q tip in white spirit will take it all off . Lets you play around nearly infinatley with oil spills , fuel drips even paint fading . Or pastel chalks are popular for fading as well .

 

Either way that T/bird is mighty fine . 

[GazzaS]

Sweet looking jug!

[KevinM]

1 hour ago, PanzerWomble said:

Have a think about using some artists oil paints for weathering maybe ? If you like don't like the effect a q tip in white spirit will take it all off . Lets you play around nearly infinitely with oil spills , fuel drips even paint fading . Or pastel chalks are popular for fading as well

I always forget oils use them on WWI when I do those not often enough for an attempt at wood grain it's hit and miss.I like pastels that's why this go round once the pastels were laid I hit with MM Flat Clear low psi and from a distance so as not to saturate the layer build it up.

15 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

Sweet looking jug!

Thanks Gary then had a SNAFU tonight got some Nato black on the side in the OD/grey area not much just going to weather the spot over again many layers save the paint.

The bombs are on,windscreen glued in/gunsight,fuel tank and the landing lights.I should have her done buy next Friday.

[KevinM]

Finished efforts can be found here...........