MDC Typhoon Mk.1b

[rkranias]

I have had this kit in my stash for a few years and I have decided begin this build.  The Tiffy is one of my favorite WWII Allied aircraft further, this build will give me some practice on a complete resin kit before I start on my HpH Me410.  I am fully aware of all the challenges of this kit and my hopes are to address each one with positive results with little use of colorful metaphors.

 

Not sure which scheme.  However, be assured there will be some black and white stripes.

 

About this kit.  At first glance everything looks fine.  Some of the panel lines are weak and will need some attention.  Several warping issues will need to be tended to, especially along the wing root. 

 

By all means this is a well manufactured kit and will build into a very nice bird.  Not taking anything away from MDC.

 

 

 

 

Aftermarket items include:

• Aviaeology Typhoon stencils
• Eduard fabric RAF Seatbelts
• RB Productions Radiator Mesh (for screen in front of radiator)
• BarracudaCast Main wheels
• BarracudaCast Typhoon, Tempest Seat
• Paul Fisher Sea Fury Canopy

The cockpit detail is spartan so I will use Valiant Wings' "Airframe & Miniature No.2 The Hawker Typhoon" for reference.  This book is full of details which will certainly come in handy during this build. 

 

The control stick got some attention with lead wire, Waspi Fly stretch tubing and styrene card.

 

The port side of the cockpit tube frame got some lead wire, stretch tubing and styrene enhancement.

 

 

To date this effort to detail the cockpit is truly time consuming.  Slick Chick and Mistel 2 FW190 are somewhat angry at me and may shove some karma my way at a later date.

[Fran]

Great start!!  

[Wingco57]

Looking forward to see this one shaping up.

Cees

[James H]

Yay! The MDC Tiffie!

 

I love this kit. Builds great and is every bit gorgeous when built (well, as about as gorgeous as a brute can look)

 

This was my first ever resin kit, and a joy to build. If the canopy isn't your thing, I believe the Fisher Sea Fury one will fit nicely.

[One-Oh-Four]

Great to see you tackle this one, Rick!! Be advised that the only stabilizers are the "non-Tempest" early ones, so be careful which bird you model. One of the earlier bubble-tops seem appropriate like PR o M with it's 3-blade prop.

[JeroenPeters]

I've got this kit too. What a great start you;ve made!

Be aware of the gear. It's modelled with leak oleos i believe. Raise the beast!

[rkranias]

Yay! The MDC Tiffie!

 

I love this kit. Builds great and is every bit gorgeous when built (well, as about as gorgeous as a brute can look)

 

This was my first ever resin kit, and a joy to build. If the canopy isn't your thing, I believe the Fisher Sea Fury one will fit nicely.

I have the Fisher Sea Fury canopy.  The lack of detail with the instructions is driving me crazy. 

[rkranias]

Great to see you tackle this one, Rick!! Be advised that the only stabilizers are the "non-Tempest" early ones, so be careful which bird you model. One of the earlier bubble-tops seem appropriate like PR o M with it's 3-blade prop.

"watcha talkin' bout WIllis?" 

 

So the stabilizers are not the right shape/size?  Assumption "non-Tempest" stabilizers is ok since I am building a Typhoon.  More details please.

[rkranias]

I've got this kit too. What a great start you;ve made!

Be aware of the gear. It's modelled with leak oleos i believe. Raise the beast!

I am chill to that tip Jeroen.  Thanks!

 

Already have a plan achieve proper rake and height.

[Wingco57]

Rick,

The early Typhoons had tailplanes of smaller area compare of later production types. This was also because of the use of the four blade prop. The later ones are called Tempest tailplanes as these are used on the Tempest. And as you know the Tempest is a developed Tiffy. So actually the Tempest tailplane is an improved Typhoon tailplane.

Does this make sense?

Cheers

Cees

[rkranias]

Thanks Cees.

 

Using the 4 bladed prop with kit supplied tailplane.  Our secret, ok? 

[Wingco57]

Rick,

Ok, although that combination did occur in service too.

Cheers

Cees

[rkranias]

Rick,

Ok, although that combination did occur in service too.

Cheers

Cees

well alrighty then. 

 

thanks Cees

[One-Oh-Four]

well alrighty then. 

 

thanks Cees

 

 

But the specific aircraft you model had to have this odd combination of 4-blade prop and early stabilizers or: 

 

 

The Scale Modeling Inquisition, when you least expect them!!!

[Wingco57]

Erik,

You know Scarlett doesn't suit you.

Cees

[rkranias]

Erik,

You know Scarlett doesn't suit you.

Cees

Oh, I have seen him in scarlett.....

[Paulster]

Oh, I have seen him in scarlett.....

His clothes or skin tone?

 

[One-Oh-Four]

His clothes or skin tone?

 

 

Hey!! Think of my reputation!! What must my wife think of this?! I've NEVER been in Scarlett. I may've wanted to, but it did never happen...

[rkranias]

The starboard side of the cockpit tube frame got some lead wire, stretch tubing and styrene enhancement.

 

 

Gun sight is a lesson of model building by braille.  Instructions are non existent.  After some dry fitting I figured it out.  This wil be a common practice with this build.

Added a brass wire for a locator pin.

 

 

Lots of cleaning.

 

Seat armor plate was so warped I decided to cut out of styrene card and add some Mr. Surfacer for texture.

 

Seat is Barracudas offering with original mounting frame, oxygen parts grafted in.

Hand brake?  Original replaced with styrene rod and brass wire.

 

All put together

 

Port side is oxygen hose removed from original seat.  Brass wire locating pin added.

 

Dry fit is ok.

 

Seat and armor ready for painting

[rkranias]

After an overall cover of Alclad Silver I broke out the Vallejo Model paints and got to work.  After a coat of gloss varnish to seal everything the weathering process will begin.

Port side painted.  After paint a coat of gloss varnish to seal everything then the weathering/shading process will begin.

 

Starboard side gets some love.  Some cleaning needed.

 

 

Seat, IP and Joy Stick.

 

 

Much to learn on fine detail painting.  Happy to get through this with no disaster.

[wackyracer]

Lovely work Rick, keep it going.

[James H]

Beautiful work!

 

For me, this was one of my most fun builds.

[rkranias]

Some more scratch work for the pit.  This portion of the build has been extremely time consuming.  Pure enjoyment though.

 

What are these?

 

After a little trimming, paint and detail we have: Ordnance switches, T handle for IP,  Canopy retract wheel.

[rkranias]

Putting it all together.  Initial weathering complete.  Not sure about pigments.

 

I recommend test fit, test fit and test fit for these parts.  Also use 5 minute epoxy.  You need some flexibility with construction and fitting in the fuselage.

 

IT'S ALL ABOUT CONTROLS

HEEL BOARD with RUDDER PEDALS glued, TUBULAR FLOOR and JOY STICK ready for construction.

 

HEEL BOARD with RUDDER PEDALS in position.

 

HEEL BOARD with RUDDER PEDALS glued with 5 min epoxy.

 

HEEL BOARD with RUDDER PEDALS and JOY STICK glued to TUBULAR FLOOR.

[rkranias]

A PLACE TO SIT

 

The tubular cockpit is tricky.  Once all the parts are in place the fit is relatively good.  First are the tubular PORT and STARBOARD FUSELAGE glued to the FIREWALL BULKHEAD.  5 minute epoxy is a must.  CA glue could not hold up to the stress from bending to fit.  After the second "pop" I switched to epoxy.  Everything stayed in place.

 

Also critical to follow the sequence outlined in instructions.

 

The MAIN SPAR (center piece) needs to have the nubs trimmed off as the HEEL BOARD rests on this portion.  Parts noted are PORT and STARBOARD FUSELAGE, FIREWALL BULKHEAD, MAIN SPAR and AFT FUSELAGE MOUNT.

 

 

PORT FUSELAGE mounted to FIREWALL BULKHEAD.

 

STARBOARD FUSELAGE mounted to FIREWALL BULKHEAD.

 

Carefully spread the PORT and STARBOARD FUSELAGE to accept the "floor".  Align the MAIN SPAR lugs to the holes and secure.  When spreading the fuselage to accept the "floor" if you used CA glue the fuselage side will pop off the FIREWALL BULKHEAD.  5 minute epoxy solves this problem. 

 

Then spread fuselage to accept the SEAT, DO NOT GLUE at this time.  Next add the LOWER ARMOUR PLATE.

 

Use the AFT FUSELAGE MOUNT as dry fit to act as a jig.  Position in fuselage to ensure final good fit.  After cure glue the UPPER ARMOR PLATE with a spot of white acrylic glue insert pit to fuselage and close up with tape.  Adjust position of UPPER ARMOR PLATE.  After dry remove pit form fuselage and revisit the UPPER ARMOUR PLATE with epoxy.

 

Finally apply white acrylic glue to the SEAT U-lugs, place pit in fuselage and close up.  Adjust seat position and allow to try.  After dry remove pit from fuselage and revisit with epoxy at the U-lugs, be sure to address U-lugs from inside pit frame.

 

Hope these pics will be helpful.  PM me with any questions.

 

 

All in all this pit build was nothing short of crazed angst.  Lots of problem solving and creative engineering.  Like a marathon, it one step at a time.

 

Please note I did not use the REAR SPAR.  This caused fit issues into the fuselage and would interfere with the RECOGNITION LIGHT installation.  The REAR SPAR will never be visible after the fuselage is buttoned up.

 

Instrument Panes with completed scratch items and additional (unpainted will be split into 2 switch panels) scratch item.