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Bf 109G-10 (Erla Production) Build-Off...Hasegawa/Revell


Mikester
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Well I've been suffering from an extreme mojo drought the last several months.  I really hadn't planned on doing any more 109s this year but couldn't really get motivated to do anything else so I took the advice of blues rocker Pat Travers and figured I'd "Go for what 'ya know"!  So I thought it would be (mildly) interesting to do a comparison build between a Hasegawa and Revell Bf 109G-10 Erla kits.  The Revell G-10 is pretty well documented and a fairly solid kit but I'll be throwing a fair amount of after-market at it to get it up to speed.  I'll be doing Hartmann's aircraft depicted on the box cover using Anders' excellent profile as my paint reference:

 

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For the Hasegawa build I'll be using the OOP EagleParts conversion set mastered by Steve Gallaci.  Shape wise more accurate than the Revell kit but grafting a resin nose on can be a pain sometimes and I suffered a major disaster trying this conversion with the old Cutting edge set so hopefully I'll get better results this time.  This one will "Red 5" of 2./JG 300.  A colorful aircraft that should look pretty cool when finished.

 

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I've already got some work done so look for an update soon!

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OK, first up is  the Revell kit.  I've used the Aries cockpit for this.  True to Aries some modification is needed even though it's designed for the Revell kit.  The wing spar runs beneath the cockpit but there is no channel molded into the cockpit tub to accomodate this so you'll need to Dremel this out yourself.  It's a little wide on the forward end too, but not real bad.  Dressed up with some Airscale Luftwaffe placards and HGW seatbelts.

 

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Fuselage together, I've used the forward portion of a Hasegawa upper cowl to correct the gun trough spacing issue, now the fun part, lots of sanding, yay!

 

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And now the Hasegawa, I've used an older Aries resin cockpit here also spruced up with Airscale Luftwaffe placards and HGW seatbelts.

 

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Fuselage together and resin nose installed.  Fit is pretty good, hopefully just a little sanding and blending to get it fared in.

 

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It's a little wide on the forward end too, but not real bad. 

 

My Aires cockpit for the Revel Bf 109g-10 is altogether to narrow and doesn't even touch the fuselage sides at all. :wtf:  Its almost like the set was designed for another kit. I'll be doing a lot of modifying to get mine to fit. Great detail, shocking fit !!!  :angry:

 

Good luck with your builds and have fun.

Cheers,

Peter

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My Aires cockpit for the Revel Bf 109g-10 is altogether to narrow and doesn't even touch the fuselage sides at all. :wtf:  Its almost like the set was designed for another kit. I'll be doing a lot of modifying to get mine to fit. Great detail, shocking fit !!!  :angry:

 

Good luck with your builds and have fun.

Cheers,

Peter

 

Funny that way, right?  Yeah, the Aries stuff looks stunning but getting it to fit is another matter entirely!

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Looking good Mike. Going through the motions on Revell's G10 pit at the moment (kit supplied) , pretty nice detail.

 

Looking forward to another update.

 

Cheers Bevan.

 

Thanks, Bevan.  I've got a three day weekend so I'll definitely have some more pics up soon.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Well a little later than I anticipated with the second installment but I wound up with more work than I bargained for!  First up the Revell:

 

The Aries cockpit really seemed to throw off the whole fuselage geometry.  I wound up with a step on the port side wing root that had to be filled and a considerable gap on the lower fuselage that had to be shimmed and filled.  This is my third Revell Gustav and all three have really poor windscreen fit, maybe it isn't me after all!  The BarracudaCast S/C intake, fresh air scoops and oil cooler are installed now too.  Few more hours and she's off to the paint shop!

 

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Next up the Hasegawa, resin after-market woes as well, this time more my fault than Master Details wheel bay inserts.  I wasn't real thorough with my dry fits so I wound up with some leading edge issues but I managed to tame them.  The EagleParts nose required a little work especially around the wing roots but wasn't too bad overall.

 

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Glad to see you back on these, Mike. Great work, as usual and I can't wait to see how you "catch up" with the Revell kit, as well.

 

John

 

Thanks, John!  The Revell kit isn't too far behind, it's already primered and I may get the paint on this weekend.

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Beaut progress Mike.  I like the look of the Mr Colour colours.  Pretty colourful scheme all round.  Almost ready for Messer-Monday??!!  Cheers, Ralph. 

 

Not at my glacial building pace, Ralph!

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Interesting to see them being built side by side. I know a lot of people think both kits have their pros and cons. I built the Hasegawa F earlier this year and have a Revell G-6 to get to...I'm by no means as versed in 109 kits as you clearly, but I think they are both great looking when finished. Great progess!

 

I'm going to do a summary at the end of all this but if you really a want good Erla G-10 then building the Revell kit OOB is not going to get you one.  The Revell kit has a lot of good things going for it but they just really didn't get the shape of the nose right at all.  AMUR Reaver does a resin replacement but it runs about $20, almost as much as the kit.  I'll probably pick one up though just because I'm stupid that way.

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On the home stretch now!  Jim sent me some Lifecolor acrylic washes a couple of years back which I tried and didn't like.  I was just using water to thin them though, I figured I'd give them another go thinned with alcohol this time and they behaved much better.  I've used Exhaust Oil and Dirty Grease for the oil cooler leaks.  I'm not sure I'm in love with it, feel free to let me know what you think of the effect:

 

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Quickboost Exhausts, painted Mr. Color Burnt Metal with a Lifecolor Burnt Rust wash and Tamiya weathering pastels:

 

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BarracudaCast wheels and G-Factor landing gear struts, the resin nose is really heavy and I was concerned about the plastic struts ability to hold up so I splurged on the metal gear.

 

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I didn't have a mask for the correct shape for the spinner spiral so I ended up using a decal, which I normally dread for this job.  Hair dryer to the rescue, although it's useless to me for it's intended task it works outstanding for getting decals to settle down, if you're not using this trick you need to!  BarracudaCast spinner and blades:

 

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