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Bf 110D of II./NJG3 (1/32 Dragon)


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The final pieces to this puzzle arrived today. So, I thought I should reserve the space for my very first build on LSM, now, even though it will probably be a couple weeks before I can start it.

 

My initial intention was to have an early Bf 110 in my collection, but I was fairly certain that it would be a day fighter. The C variant seemed to be the obvious choice, so that's the kit that I picked up. I found a few promising schemes (something I'm very picky about when it's going to be in my own collection. It has to have "the look" and be "the one".), but when I came across this photo of an early nightfighter, I knew that it was indeed "the one" and it happens to be a D.

 

Me110C1-NJG3-Schleswig%20ONE_zpsynohty3k

 

So, since I had only the C kit, I ended up doing some trading of parts, in order to obtain the proper tail and tail wheel pieces that would be required to do a D variant. On top of that, I managed to pick up the following parts that I thought would help complete this build and make some improvements over what comes in the box (which is already pretty darn nice, from what I can see!).

 

Dragon Bf 110C kit (with swapped out parts to make it a D)

Eagle Cals decals (probably only be using the stencils)

Montex masks

HGW seatbelts (will be my first time using them)

Eduard Zoom PE set

Eduard canopy masks (but may just use the Montex, not sure yet)

Quickboost exhaust pipes

Aber brass barrel set for the 110C/D (these look amazing!)

Some spare squadron crest decals donated from a fellow member at the LSP forum.

 

20151013_142309_zpskmk46tie.jpg

 

I'm not a 110 fanatic, but I've always liked the look of the plane and it has a pretty rich history. In my lifetime, I have built a couple of the Monogram 1/72 kits, the Promodeler 1/48 G-2, as well as Revell's 1/32 G-4. However, only one of the little 1/72 builds survived over the years and the Dragon kit, along with all this aftermarket support and my improved patience and skills over the last twenty years (since I built my last 110), should be able to produce something that will blow all the previous builds clean out of the water. So, I am really looking forward to this one. I also have a pretty good stash of other Luftwaffe twin engines to build, so I figured this would be a great place to start with that lineup.

 

I hope you all enjoy it and I want to say that I'm not opposed to constructive criticism and helpful information. So, feel free to add anything that you may feel is helpful. I may not implement every single thing, but the information is appreciated, nonetheless. ;)

 

John

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Thanks, Mike. I'll be on the watch for that. I'm fortunate, in that there are now several good builds of this kit online and quite a few WIP threads to look through that will point out some of the trouble spots. I've already been studying a few of them, including yours, which was fantastic, by the way.

 

Thanks again,

 

John

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Great scheme John - love that pic.  Topside day colours and black undersides should make for an eye-catching combination.  I found the cabin area of the fuselage to be somewhat flexible once the wings were attached.  I think that's why mine has no main wing dihedral at all.  Looking forward to watching this one come to life.  Cheers, Ralph.

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Nice one John. Be following along with this. That pic is cracking as well. The JU88 in the foreground with the nice weathering on the wing. Perfect for me and the NJG 88 I'm doing over on the 1940 group build. Never can have enough reference pics.

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Nice one John. Be following along with this. That pic is cracking as well. The JU88 in the foreground with the nice weathering on the wing. Perfect for me and the NJG 88 I'm doing over on the 1940 group build. Never can have enough reference pics.

What's the go with the mass balances on the top of the wing, thought they were always underneath?

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Thanks, everyone!

 

The aircraft in the foreground left me scratching my head, as well. I've even been through a few of my books trying to place it and haven't had any luck, yet. The engine/cowl does almost look like a Do 17, but the wing doesn't match. Even looked at some Italian, British and French types, but still nothing that confirms it. The photo was supposedly taken at Schleswig, in the latter part of 1940, or early 1941, if that would help to narrow it down.

 

Thanks again,

 

John

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Hi John, cool subject and an impressive AM list. Dragon's 110 is a top notch kit, as long as you keep

in mind the skimpy instructions and the errors in the manual.

There's some more reference pics about BF nightfighters in Walkarounds: Bf 110 early types (nightfighters) in Holland 1941.

 

Or, click this link to see my Flickr album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/94246283@N02/albums/72157633074018019

 

8590674290_f1a777e3ef.jpg

 

 

Have fun

George

George,

 

Thanks for the link. That's a great collection of photos, all around. I'm sure I'll put them to good use along the way. It also leads me to one of the first decisions I'll have to make on this build, which is the cockpit color. It's my understanding that the transition from RLM 02 to 66 probably happened somewhere in this timeframe and I've even seen reference to the idea that it could be both! I can't say for sure, only from the one photo of this aircraft (even though there are several versions of the photo, all of varying contrast). Some people have suggested that the upper portions of the pit could be 66, while leaving the lower walls and floor in 02, but I'm not sure. Also, given that this appears to be a fairly hasty application of night camouflage, I question whether they would have had/taken the time to paint in the cockpit, at all.

 

John

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Thanks, George!

 

I'm kind of leaning towards a well used 02 at this point. If the plane was the overall, nice, even, black finish then I would probably be leaning more towards 66, at least on some parts of the interior. I'm also probably going to shoot for a fairly well worn top surface. There's a couple of techniques that I've been wanting to try out and this might be the perfect project to do it with (incorporating salt chips in the paint fading, etc. ).

 

However, I shouldn't get too far ahead of myself, since I haven't even started, yet! I have 1/48 scale PZL 23 Karas on the bench, right now, which is a build for a friend. I need to get that finished before I can get rolling on this Nachtjager. So, it's back to the bench, today! :piliot: 

 

Cheers,

 

John

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  • 1 month later...

Okay, as a friend of mine likes to say, "Let's kick this pig!". :o:lol:

 

I started by searching out a bunch of online discussions surrounding the instructions on this kit and making notes of the corrections and areas of caution. From there, I started cutting out and cleaning up parts for the cockpit, as well as taking notes on some other things I will likely change or enhance. Here are some of the things I plan on doing:

 

1. Adding a bit more wiring/plumbing to the cockpit. Probably not a ton, but just a bit to liven it up.

2. Adding the release cable for the dinghy in the tail, which was a feature of the D model, but not included in this C kit.

3. Adding tubing to the front of the prop hubs so that they look more like the originals, instead of just the dimples on the kit parts.

4. Cutting out the wings' leading edge slats and positioning them open, as they should be on the ground.

5. Whatever else I think I can add to it without getting too crazy. Items 1-4 are the most critical, in my mind.

 

Not a ton of progress so far, but I am already getting close to priming and painting the main interior parts. Most of the smaller details will either be painted separately, or after the main portions are done.

 

20151118_104723_zpsktv6lkca.jpg

 

I also noted another issue in the instructions that I didn't see in any of the online builds (unless I missed it). Step one would have you attach the brace (spar? Part E22), on which the center seat is mounted, to the rear of the MG/FF weapons tray. This won't work, since the spar needs to sit on top of the floor and the tray is attached from beneath and level with the floor at the rear, where they tell you to put it. But, if you look at the floor, there are two slots for the tabs at either side of part E22, so it's fairly obvious....so long as you're looking at all the parts and not the instructions.

 

Still plenty to add to the instrument panel, but I think it looks pretty good compared to a lot of the other Eduard colored sets I have used. The RLM66 is a touch on the light side, but at least it doesn't have that blue look to it they they (Eduard) are famous for. Also, I'll be representing a cockpit that is partially over-painted 02, with MM enamel 66, which is also a bit light. So, it should turn out fairly well, if all goes as planned.

 

Not much of a start, yet, but progress is progress and at least I'm finally working on this!

 

John

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Thanks, George!

 

I actually came across your build last night. Great job, by the way! With you, Mike, Ralph and a couple others who have gone before me, I feel better equipped to tackle this one and am fortunate to have that luxury. When I got to the spar and saw what the instructions were telling me to do, it was certainly a "what the..." moment. So far, however, the fit has been excellent, even if the part locations are wrong or just vague in some spots. I just came in from shooting an undercoat of sliver and painting the guns/magazines. Hoping to have most of the cockpit base colors on tonight.

 

Thanks again,

 

John

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Well, here's where I'm at for the moment. I only got the belts done for the pilot's seat and that took me nearly 2.5 hours. HGW belts are a major pain, but they do look great. I also added some air lines to the cannon tray's compressed air bottles and painted the radio rack. The interior is quite weathered. I figured that a plane that had been used for this long, both as a day and a night fighter, would probably show a pretty high level of wear.

 

Sorry for the crappy focus in the pics. I'll try to do better on the next round.

 

20151119_212125_zpsvvf0eni9.jpg

20151119_212055_zpsy2lds333.jpg

20151119_105157_zpsotzddmvq.jpg

 

I'm hoping that I can get the rest of the belts installed, touch-ups done and then a flat coat shot, tomorrow (oh, and I need to paint/install the stick, too!). Then, I'll be moving on the to the sidewalls.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

John

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Thanks, George.

 

Actually, I think I had braced myself better when taking the pic of the IP, so it's not as blurry.

 

I couldn't sleep last night, so I stayed up working on this some more. I managed to get the rest of the belts attached, the stick painted/installed and also shot my flat coat and put the IP and throttle quadrant in place. I also noticed, from looking at another build, that I had put the cross-member that attaches to the rear gunner's magazine racks, in the wrong position. It should be underneath the mags, not at the ends of the racks. So, I moved that and painted it, as well. Once I get the sidewalls ready, I'll take some more pics.

 

Thanks again!

 

John

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Thanks, Jim.

 

This is the first of Dragon's newer generation of kits that I've built. Back in the 90s and early 2000s, I built several of their 1/48 aircraft kits and at least a couple of their armor kits. I know that, back then, they were considered among the best available. From what I've read and can see in the box, this kit seems to fall into that category, even by today's standards. If they could only get their instruction issues sorted out....

 

In any case, this should be a fairly straightforward build, which I welcome. In the past several years, it seems like the vast majority of stuff that I've done has been limited run injection molded, or complete resin kits, as well as a lot of conversions. This should be a nice break from that (before I dive into another crazy resin kit/conversion!).

 

Thanks again,

 

John

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I snapped a few pics. A little better than the last, but I've been playing with the focus settings on my phone and haven't really settled on one that I like yet for really good close ups (in combination with how close I am to the subject when I take the shot).

 

Anyway, here we are....

 

Pit%201_zpsgdkvg41j.jpg

Pit%203_zpsrug8vurc.jpg

Pit%205_zpsfqzxyman.jpg

 

I coated the canopy parts in Future, this morning. Also working on the upper deck and sidewalls and figuring out exactly what combination of 02/66 I want them to be. Also, does anyone here have any experience/opinions on painting the INSIDE of a canopy? I've never done the inside of a greenhouse like this, but can see where it would really have it's advantages, in terms of effect. The Montex set has masks for the inside, as well, so I'm thinking about giving it a try, if it's not too much hassle.

 

Thanks for checking in,

 

John

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George,

 

Since I have the pre-cut masks for the interior and exterior, I think I'm going to try them. If I do the exterior first, it should give me a better idea on alignment? If it looks to be too risky, I'll just pull them and only mask the exterior, painting the interior color, first.

 

Thanks for commenting. Much appreciated!

 

John

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Hi John,

 

You may have the right thought doing the exterior and matching the interior ones to them.

 

The main risk in masking the interior is obviously making sure the internal alignment eventually matches the exterior. I just had a thought to use thin strips of Tamiya tape to mark out the frames on the interior so they match the exterior. Then fill in the voids with the vinyl masks? Remove the Tamiya tape and your alignment should be good. Literally just a random thought and not tried it myself. It will be more work and maybe more than it's worth though.

 

The critical masks are the first couple to set your alignment. I think once you get a couple of mask positioned on the interior and are happy with them, the old MK.1 eyeball can be brought into play. Maybe even a couple of check photos as we all know the camera doesn't lie?

 

Just random ramblings and not based in fact or proven.

 

Regards,

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Thanks, guys!

 

Great pics, Jim. Really like that 109!

 

I think I'm going to try the interior masks, at least on the most prominent parts (the ones that will be open and exposed), such as the pilots canopy/windscreen and the gunner's hatch, which also appear to be the easiest to mask. If that goes smoothly, I will try to take it further and see how it goes. My only experience with Montex canopy masks is on a recently completed Ju 188 in 1/48 scale. However, I didn't use the interior set. It turned out quite well, but it's a smaller model, a vac canopy and none of it was opened up.

 

20150910_214744_zpsbpb1zsn6.jpg

 

Thanks again,

 

John

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