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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Dragon Stug III Ausf F, 142/1


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Hello friends!

Past May 25/2019 I started my new Project:  Dragon Stug III Ausf F, Sdk. Fz. 142/1.

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I will started to cleaning the drive wheels and idler wheels

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The instructions indicate that it is necessary to remove the simulated hatch line and fill a hole (in both sides).

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Ready, I filled the hole using Putty de Vallejo

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If you ir a beginner, you must be careful with the assembly of suspension arms because in the instruction sheet is inverted. Some pieces have an imperfections, but they were resolved using Putty of Vallejo.

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I added holes to the exhaust pipe with silencer.

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The rear part did not fit correctly, in order to arrange this, I used styrene into the chassis and filled with Putty of Vallejo on the out part

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The plate of air intake grid it came too big, for adjust into the rear it was necessary to cut the sides.

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The work with the chassis is ready. The plastic is a bit brittle, at the moment of sandering you must nedd more careful of the normal.

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Next step: The tracks, here you can see that it came with 2 marks of pin in each link. After of this tedious work I will return with more updates.

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 I will use the old technic of the cutter, but finally I decided to continue the work with the hull and wait almost to final with the tracks.

Regards!
Rodolfo

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You certainly have plenty of patience Rodolfo. As Jeff says, I think I'd be looking for Friul or R-Model options.

You do wonder what the kit designers are thinking when they put the injector pins in these locations.

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Thanks for your kind comments friends!.   I would like to know also what the designers thought for add many pins :rtfm:

Mounted the Air-intake Covers, the plate of vent oppening (compartment roof), driver vision port and headlights.

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Making holes to the Periscope gun sight and ready!.

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Regards!
Rodolfo

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Treating the tracks: 1) - cut the horizontal bars in order to give more space for the following step. 2) - Using a medium round (or round) tool file and filing along the tracks.

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Ready 1 sheet of 76 tracks in less than 3 minutes!, after of this photo only I retouched 3 tracks, really useful and quick!!

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Regards!
Rodolfo

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Well, that turned out much better than I would have thought............ I had in my mind that you were going to 'fill' each one and then sand..................... THAT would have been tedious at best...............they look really good, even gave them some texture.....

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Thanks for your kind comments friends!.   Yes, this is a good shortcut for treating the tracks.

More updates!

The Photoetched are very rigid (hard), but can be worked without probems.

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Tracks ready!, In the pic 4 I saw a desaligned track, but after of take the photo was arrenged.

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Regards!
Rodolfo

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Nice work so far Rodolfo, I like your shortcut with the tracks. If you find the PE parts to hard to bend you can anneal them by heating the sheet with a flame. afterwards the material is much softer.

You mastered the tracks your own way, but i might suggest another white metal product with very easy assembly. They are made by Easy Metal Links and are constructed without needing pins.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLvv8ld_km0

Cheers Rob

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Thanks for the tips about the PE and tracks,  In the past I worked with Friulmodel and are an excellent tracks too.  Regarding the Easy Metal Tracks, maybe I will try in future!

More updates!

Finished the build work!. (the sides are not glued yet, first I will treat the tracks). Next step: I will apply a coat of Primer before to paint.

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Regards!
Rodolfo

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:D  hello frieds!

Thanks for your comments!.   Really is easy, the arms of assemble it coming with great definition in order to glue to the hull. I need space for paint the tracks, with the plates added is not possible in a 90% (above) because the space is reduce.     I can also comfortably paint the tools on the back, do it with the assembled plates is possible, but a bit uncomfortable.

Regards!
Rodolfo

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More updates:

Before to airbrush the tracks and wheels I used Parafilm for cover the sides. Paint used: Vallejo #71056, black-grey.

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Now, airbrushed the rest of the armor with no protection on the tracks and wheel, the effect will be natural when I start the weathering, (only a small retouch in the wheels and track sides). Paint used: Vallejo #71028, sand-yellow; and the interior of hatches were painted with: AMMO MIG Interior Color, #A.MIG017, cremeweiss.

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Next step: Camo.  Add the decals. Paint the tools and treat the tracks continuing the weathering assambling the side plates.

Regards!
Rodolfo

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More updates!

Tools are ready!. Paints used Vallejo and Humbrl: cleaning rods, V-Model Color- #984, flat-brown, V-MC#70912,tan-yellow and H- #56, metallic. Cutting pliers, V-Model Color #70818 red-leather mixed with V-MC#981 orange- brown (50-50), and the rest with V-MC#984, flat-brown and H-#56 metallic.

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Mud on the tracks using: Vallejo, acrylic-resin (paste), brown-earth

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Retouching the tracks with Humbrol #27002, Metalcote polished Aluminium.

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Regards!
Rodolfo

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Looks great, Rodolfo!  I'm not sure about the white metal on the tools:

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Although there are many arguments about colors for the jack and other tools, there had to have been some protective finish to combat rust.

 

HTH

 

Gaz

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