Das Kamel - Hansa Brandenburg W.12

[DocRob]

3 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

I've yet to have a bottle that I couldn't open with this tool. Provided it's compatible of course.

Thanks Carl, together with that flexible glass holder, all makes sense. Seems to be the way to go and not having any more glass shards in the nozzle of my AB

1 hour ago, Bill_S said:

When I have that stuck lid issue, I turn the bottle upside down and put about 4 or 5 drops of lacquer thinner in the gap between the lid and the jar. Give it about 10 minutes, and the paint lid unscrews by hand.

Some chemical warfare against these dammed lids . But why not, sounds perfectly logical. Thanks for the tip, Bill.

Now I got three ideas and feel a little like an idiot with my shattered glass, but that's the way, we got out of the swamps, learning from each other. Thanks guys.

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

The interior is almost complete now except for wiring, steering column and some touch ups. I added some details to the foldable table, like a ruler and pencils.
Again I was not very impressed with a HGW product, the seatbelts look not to good, and didn't take a wash, to pop the detail like other of the same company did. It was a set for a W.29, guess I couldn't get one by the time. Tomorrow I will decide, if I use the WNW ones or leave it at that..

 

 

Cheers Rob

[BlrwestSiR]

The table in the back looks great with your additions. 

There so much warmth to your interior, it feels like I'm looking at a library or wood paneled smoking room instead of a plane. 

 

[DocRob]

54 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

The table in the back looks great with your additions. 

There so much warmth to your interior, it feels like I'm looking at a library or wood paneled smoking room instead of a plane. 

Thanks Carl, I was tempted to put an ashtray in and a glass of brandy , but instead went with my ruler and triangle made of spare PE, mainly because I managed to break the folding table, and the triangle covers the crack.
I added some pigments to the wood, to add depth in the corners and some tear in the areas, where the usage wood show and went strictly matte with the varnish this time.
I'll have the cigar and the old brandy after dinner on the terrace and contemplate how I will tackle the already started engine.

Cheers Rob

[Bomber_County]

Spectacular Rob......

[Jeff]

2 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Spectacular Rob......

Agree, and even the pencils !!

[DocRob]

2 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Spectacular Rob......

 

25 minutes ago, Jeff said:

Agree, and even the pencils !!

Gracias Señhores, the pencils were made of 0,2 mm nickel silver rod, which I cut too short for the folding mechanism of the table, so I decided to make something good out of it.

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

I start the preparations to finish the interior. There's a lot of detail work involved, most of it will be for the 'I know it's there' thing .
I dry fitted a lot with the frames and engine mount, to guarantee, that the fuselage will close properly, a critical point of a WNW build and this is no exception.
I pre-fiddled in the steering cables, using fishing line, which has a natural stiffness, but have no idea, if I will be able to connect them with the steering column, when the framing is closed.

The backside of the IP was finished and glued to the hairspray chipped engine mount. I may chip a little bit more, but will definitely add oil stains, some pigments and some salt residues, when the engine is finished to get a matching look.

 

You have too be very concerned of the process of the build and not forget a certain step at a certain time. A last minute thought was, that I have to paint the leather cushion better before closing the fuselage, so I did with oils. When everything is dried, I will age the white inside areas and give the leather a dark wash.

The fuel pump was added, along with a copper wire fuel line. I managed to break that fragile frame some days ago and repaired it today

 

Cheers Rob

[Bill_S]

Great stuff here, Rob. I manage to break the frames on my W.29 build, too. I find it easier to attach cable to rudders and control column first, then pass it through where it's supposed to go.

[BlrwestSiR]

Fantastic work on the interior. How do you mask the leather pads around the cockpit openings?

[DocRob]

1 hour ago, Bill_S said:

Great stuff here, Rob. I manage to break the frames on my W.29 build, too. I find it easier to attach cable to rudders and control column first, then pass it through where it's supposed to go.

Thanks Bill, it's so easy to break these frames and on the W.12 there is a strut protruding from the frame to support the upper wing, guess what happened... .
About the wiring, I thought the same way until I saw, how tiny the horns on the steering column are. I seem not to be able to drill a 0,2 mm hole into it for fixing the fishing line. How did you solve that problem?

45 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Fantastic work on the interior. How do you mask the leather pads around the cockpit openings?

Thanks Carl, in the moment the leather padding is only painted to have it done for the inside. I think for the outside, I will use liquid mask and if there are irritations after peeling the mask, I will redo it, easy with oils.

Cheers Rob 

[GazzaS]

Fantastic work, Rob!  Map and pencils!  Amazing.  Something I'll have to consider when I do mine.

 

Good show!

[DocRob]

13 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Fantastic work, Rob!  Map and pencils!  Amazing.  Something I'll have to consider when I do mine.

Thanks Gaz, they should know where to go . That was done spontaneus, because I cracked the table. I looked at my bench in a slight horror, to see the rest of the silver PE- sheet lying there. The first good thing I had out of my HGW stuff with this build .

Cheers Rob

[Bill_S]

16 hours ago, DocRob said:

Thanks Bill, it's so easy to break these frames and on the W.12 there is a strut protruding from the frame to support the upper wing, guess what happened... .
About the wiring, I thought the same way until I saw, how tiny the horns on the steering column are. I seem not to be able to drill a 0,2 mm hole into it for fixing the fishing line. How did you solve that problem?

Thanks Carl, in the moment the leather padding is only painted to have it done for the inside. I think for the outside, I will use liquid mask and if there are irritations after peeling the mask, I will redo it, easy with oils.

Cheers Rob 

Rob, years ago, they were throwing away a box of these drills at work - they were used for drilling precise fuel metering holes in carburetors.  You can ones used for drilling holes in printed circuit boards in even smaller sizes (this one is about 0.25mm). I use good magnification, too!

[DocRob]

1 hour ago, Bill_S said:

Rob, years ago, they were throwing away a box of these drills at work - they were used for drilling precise fuel metering holes in carburetors.  You can ones used for drilling holes in printed circuit boards in even smaller sizes (this one is about 0.25mm). I use good magnification, too!

Thanks Bill, these drills look good, they are so short, they won't bend a lot. I use a 0,2mm drill in a pin vise. The drill bends a lot and it's difficult to start drilling, even  pinning the hole with a needle before. If you set the drill deep enough into the vise, there is no bending anymore, but you can't see where you drill.
I will look, if I can find your kind of drill somewhere.

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

Today I managed to do some little things, I didn't dare yesterday. After thinking about the attachment of the control wires, I decided to give it another try with drilling the horns. If that wouldn't have worked, I would have sliced the ends of the horns to glue the wire in. I got sthem drilled somehow with my 0,2mm bit and glued the fishing line in with CA and left it to cure.

The rudder pedals got tiny holes then and I drilled the return rollers in the frame part as you can see for putting around the rudder wire.

Then I dirtied up the white parts of the interior with olive green and light gray oils.

 

Cheers Rob

[BlrwestSiR]

5 hours ago, DocRob said:

Thanks Bill, these drills look good, they are so short, they won't bend a lot. I use a 0,2mm drill in a pin vise. The drill bends a lot and it's difficult to start drilling, even  pinning the hole with a needle before. If you set the drill deep enough into the vise, there is no bending anymore, but you can't see where you drill.
I will look, if I can find your kind of drill somewhere.

Cheers Rob

Rob, Tamiya makes some drill bits that might be what you're looking for. 

Carl

[DocRob]

Thanks Carl, perfect, I will try to get those.

Cheers Rob

[Norman L]

I am enjoying this a lot !!

[DocRob]

Thanks Norman, and welcome to the forum . I'm pleased, that you like the Kamel build, as I enjoy it a lot.

Cheers Rob

[Bomber_County]

8 hours ago, Norman L said:

I am enjoying this a lot !!

Welcome aboard Norman, the friendliest and laid back corner of the modelling web thingy.......

[DocRob]

The internal rigging was a fiddly affair, but now everything is taut and glued. The steering column is not in it's final position, that will be glued in place with the steering wheel added.

That's about what shows of all the interior work after closing the fuselage. Luckily it seems, that everything fits here, the small gap can be closed with only a slight amount of pressure, a crucial step in WNW builds.

 

Next step will be the engine, which will be modified, as the stock one has it's noticeable simplifications. 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

It's about time to start with the engine now. WNW provides a plastic half of the cylinders with the push rods casted in. That part is highly prominent on the engine and utterly gruesome. The good news is, that there is an 'unused' spare part of the same cylinder block half without the rods, so you do not have to do a lot of surgery.
The main part of the engine was sprayed with Xtreme Metallics Aluminum, the bank of cylinders is Tamiya's semi gloss black.

 

I drilled 0,5 mm holes into the housing to install the pre cut (13,3mm length) nickel silver tubes, wich will look perfect, with their high sheen finish. I also cut two strips of 0,5 mm styrene for the wiring harness. These are not present in the kit, but are shown in the b&w pics in the manual.
Because it will be more difficult to weather the engine, with all details attached, I dusted different types of pigments on, namely track brown, smoke, old aluminum and steel. This will be refined later. I also painted the spark plugs for a little contrast.

The springs or more the missing representation of the valve springs, I will try to address in a simplified way. As you can see on the upper left side of the pic, these are only cylinders without any spring detail, again, highly visible. I thought about cutting these away and make my own springs out of wire, but cutting these parts would make them very fragile, so I decided to try to fake paint the springs, either with a very thin marker or a pencil onto the already applied stainless steel paint.

 

Last but not least and to finish the interior, I painted the spare drums for the observers Parabellum MG. After painting and some wash and pigments, I applied a 0,5 mm strip of Kabuki tape, as a canvas strip, holding the rounds. this was then painted and dirtied up.

 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

Today there is only a little update due to heavy swimming and watering the garden in the heat, but to me it's an important one, as I didn't like the WNW solution for the valve springs not at all, and these are on top of the engine in undisturbed eyesight on the finished kit.
I took my engraving needle and scratched fine lines into the plastic cylinders and rubbed some steel pigments on and then a black panel liner.
To my eye this looks more than a spring, than the WNW attempt and I hope the next ones will be a little finer engraved. Five minutes of work per one valve set, voila.

Left WNW kit supplied, right as mentioned above.

Cheers Rob

[BlrwestSiR]

That bit of work on the springs does make a difference. 

Do you know what the diameter is for that part? I may have some springs that small.