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Das Kamel - Hansa Brandenburg W.12


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3 hours ago, Bill_S said:

Outstanding wood grain effects, Rob. The IP looks much better than that decal!

Thanks Bill, I got it a little better, but still with the decal on. I was a little afraid of removing the decal, so I only modified it with some oils and a wash and finally the decals.

I have to admit, I start to really enjoy to emulate wood with oils on Acrylics. It's not so difficult and very rewarding. I start to get the feeling, I bought a lot of woodgrain decals out of pure Angst.

1 hour ago, harv said:

Noice !......harv :popcorn:

Muchas Gracias Señhor :thumbsup2:.

Cheers Rob

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After a lot of masking and airbrushing, I finished the basic woodwork and painting stage for the inner fuselage. Now it's time to get in some detail painting, wear and grime.

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Loosely fit, it seems that the fuselage halves will close properly, but still a long way to go before gluing. 

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Cheers Rob

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1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Really nice interior Rob. I need more practice with my woodgrain painting. 

Thanks Carl, specially the woodgraining is pure fun, wouldn't have thought so half a year ago and bought lots of wood emulating decals. Since my SSW twins, where I first used woodgraining with oils, I feel more and more confident to do so. The only decal I used for the Kamel, was for the IP and it was a total mess and that happens a lot to me with decals for various reasons. In the future it will be more and more oils on acrylics.
I don't know, if the quality of the oil colours has a lot of influence, I'm using Abteilung 502 oils and find them perfect to work with, very fine spreadable and removable with turpentine dampened flat brushes and with a silky smooth finish. The drying time isn't that bad either.

25 minutes ago, Bomber_County said:

Rob, just catching up, blooming lovely, wow, you’ve nailed the wood grain. Got to add some of that on the exterior of my Camel, that’s probably the reason for stalling...........love the floats....

Thanks Phil, there is no reason to fear wood painting. train it once or twice on an old scrap piece, using some cream colour as a base and with two or three different oil colours you are on your way. When you seal everything with a coat of clear yellow or clear orange, the wood will really radiate warmth and gleam. I used matted Pledge, because my Kamel will be a well used workhorse.

P:S. I have a woodgrain decal for the back of my Camel, but I doubt, that I will use it, with my experiences made with HGW decals with this build.

Cheers Rob

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Hi Rob,

    I didn't realize you had this one going.  Love the dinged floats and the IP.  Your work on the wood grain is exemplary.   I will remember to look in on this and watch your progress.

I have this kit, too but am not overly in love with it due to the limited marking options.   I'm still hoping to find that rare photo that will inspire me to build it.

 

GAz

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3 hours ago, harv said:

Good work ol'chap ! I like your work....harv :popcorn:

Gracias Harv, very pleased to hear. Until now it's a pure fun project, except the decals and that I shattered a jar of Tamiya Xf-22 and salvaged a tiny rest out of the shards, because I have no substitute in the moment and sprayed these last drops on with a sputtering airbrush. While cleaning the airbrush, I noticed, that there were two tiny fragments of glass in the nozzle, make my day :D

1 hour ago, GazzaS said:

I didn't realize you had this one going.  Love the dinged floats and the IP.  Your work on the wood grain is exemplary.   I will remember to look in on this and watch your progress.

I have this kit, too but am not overly in love with it due to the limited marking options.   I'm still hoping to find that rare photo that will inspire me to build it.

The Kamel was on my schedule, since I bought the kit some years ago, but needed some time to learn the necessary skills. I absolutely love the Hansa Brandenburg, despite the dull grey appearance. To me it represents an airframe which was made for the rough surroundings of the Northern Sea and my personal recollections of these northern parts of Germany and specially the island of Sylt are part of the nostalgia.

To find more interesting schemes will not be too easy, I guess. There were some Dutch planes and I guess, Danmark had some too, but as far as I know these birds were grey sans the appealing naval lozenge.

Cheers Rob

P.S.
The island of Sylt looks very much like the Outer Banks in North Carolina, with the dunes. The Polansky movie The Ghostwriter was filmed mainly on the island Sylt.

Cheers Rob

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7 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Would you know offhand how many of these were issued in Wood and CDL. before the lozenge came into effect?

Sorry Gaz, I've no idea. With the W.12 it's interesting to see, how felt 80% of the articles you find with google are about the kit in one way or another. 
Do you actually have proof of any W.12's in that wood/CDL finish. As I understand it, three prototypes were planned to be built in Brandenburg, near Berlin.
When ready, the lakes around Brandenburg were frozen and they had to move one plane (#1014) to Warnemünde (Balticum) for rushed tests. 
I have no evidence of the looks of that (these) prototypes, but they might be in your mentioned finish.

Anyway, who cares about history, If I would built a second one, it might be in a fictive civilian scheme.

Just found that thread in a partner forum with a google picture search, maybe it helps.

https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=4749.0

Cheers Rob

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1 hour ago, Jeff said:

Rob, how did you shatter the bottle of paint?? Obviously it was a glass bottle.... jammed lid??

It was an old glass jar of Tamiya acrylic and not to open without the help of devices. In this hard case, I used a vice and juuuust a little bit too much force. I've done it before and the vice has aluminum tin for protection.
The worst beside the spilled colour and glas shards was, that I had no comparable colour at hand. So I tried to use the rest of what was in the jar...

Cheers Rob

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12 minutes ago, DocRob said:

It was an old glass jar of Tamiya acrylic and not to open without the help of devices. In this hard case, I used a vice and juuuust a little bit too much force. I've done it before and the vice has aluminum tin for protection.
The worst beside the spilled colour and glas shards was, that I had no comparable colour at hand. So I tried to use the rest of what was in the jar...

Cheers Rob

I had the same problem, and made a Hell of a mess, then I got smart and bought a small one of these strap wrenches and problem solved, as it puts a constant pressure all the way round the bottle, and doesn't break, I have put on some huge pressure, and it works every time... I wrap the strap on the glass part , and then with a set of channel lock pliers turn the cap....

https://www.amazon.ca/Craftsman-Rubber-Strap-Wrench-Set/dp/B00K92810A

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2 hours ago, Jeff said:

I had the same problem, and made a Hell of a mess, then I got smart and bought a small one of these strap wrenches and problem solved, as it puts a constant pressure all the way round the bottle, and doesn't break, I have put on some huge pressure, and it works every time... I wrap the strap on the glass part , and then with a set of channel lock pliers turn the cap....

Thanks Jeff, I will consider buying one of these, I have only a large one for diameters up to two meters. :D 

2 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Rob, Gunze makes a tool for opening their bottles. It works on Tamiya and AK Real Colors as well. 

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/10064123

I have yet to have a bottle of paint I couldn't open using that tool. 

I think my LHS has them in stock if you want me to grab you one the next time I'm there. 

Thanks Carl, I know these tools, but do not have one, because, when the jar is so hard to open, the problem is not to get hold of the lid, it's the glass part, which is difficult to hold. Therefore I go with Jeffs option and use my pliers, like I did before, but with that band tool around the glass.

Cheers Rob

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12 minutes ago, DocRob said:

 

Thanks Carl, I know these tools, but do not have one, because, when the jar is so hard to open, the problem is not to get hold of the lid, it's the glass part, which is difficult to hold. Therefore I go with Jeffs option and use my pliers, like I did before, but with that band tool around the glass.

Cheers Rob

Rob, the Gunze opener set includes a silicone rubber cup that holds the glass jar so that it doesn't slip. You put the jar in that and it not only holds the jar from slipping but increases the diameter so it's easier to hold. 

I'll try to grab of pic of mine when I'm home later from work. 

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Time for some rants now, but first, I have started giving the interior a used, worn look, but there is more to follow. With the storage bag, I tried to replicate rubberized canvas, like the old Klepper coats of the Marine.

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Now to the rants, the clear parts by WNW are among the worst, I have seen in a while and it's just straight panes. They do llook wobbly and a coat of Pledge, didn't help :icon_eek:

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HGW provided not enough etch frames nor are there enough masks provided, normally, I like the products of HGW, but this set is a total waste. You have exactly three of the C2 window panes and at least one of it needs a frame and mask on both sides. This combined with the unusable paper wood insert for the fuselage and the hyper fragile wood decals, let me wonder what these guys are smoking :censored:.

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Cheers Rob

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That's a bit disappointing about the HGW set. Especially when we're used to their stuff being top quality.

Here's the pics of the bottle opener. Here's the two part tool. Mine are covered in overspray so aren't as clean as they could be. 

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With a bottle of paint in the holder. 

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Gunze includes two different styles of serrations to grab the lids.IMG_20200831_152451.thumb.jpg.9626c650429fb37a20d5a44cf904ad5d.jpg

There's even the rectangular slit for the older Gunze bottles with the big tab on top. I have a bunch of those so I found that particularly handy. 

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I've yet to have a bottle that I couldn't open with this tool. Provided it's compatible of course. 

One other thing I do is save the empty bottles. Once I have a few, I'll take the kids off and soak them in a container with some water and laundry detergent. After a couple days, the paint has usually dissolved and after a quick scrub with a toothbrush I have clean jars for mixing custom colours in. This works on both Mr Color and Tamiya paints. 

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When I have that stuck lid issue, I turn the bottle upside down and put about 4 or 5 drops of lacquer thinner in the gap between the lid and the jar. Give it about 10 minutes, and the paint lid unscrews by hand.

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