Kaireckstadt Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 8 hours ago, FME erk said: As previously mentioned on the first page, two defects on the wings, the Port upper side had a second Dinghy stowage hatch and the starboard underside has landing lights . . . After applying Mr. Surfacer some weeks ago I have now eliminated both issues and hopefully you will be able to see the results as I hold the pieces in the correct light to photograph them . . . The next thing that wants attention are the undercarriage legs. In the photo you can see the 'hole' in the vertical strut. It would probably support the kit no problem but there shouldn't be such a hole therefore I shall be sinking some sprue glue in there to make good. Also, the 'Non-retracting bar needs removing for I have not seen any photos of this in place on a wartime aircraft, I suspect its used on todays flying examples . . . More to come best regards Ian Well done, Ian. This is really a must. I can’t understand why HK made this mistake. You mentioned before that you have to shorten the legs. Where do you have to shorten them and how much? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 I haven't shortened the legs yet so cant give details but if you look at the actual aircraft and see where this is compared to the bottom of the cowling then compare to kits that have been made you will see that it does need to be shortened . . . . Note the central brace, you cannot see the horizontal cross bar at the top of that brace . . . I hope that helps ?? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 6 hours ago, FME erk said: I haven't shortened the legs yet so cant give details but if you look at the actual aircraft and see where this is compared to the bottom of the cowling then compare to kits that have been made you will see that it does need to be shortened . . . . Note the central brace, you cannot see the horizontal cross bar at the top of that brace . . . I hope that helps ?? For sure it helps Ian. It‘s over for mine but now I understand what you mean! Thanks! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Another mod that is a personal choice is the opening of the bottom cowling on the engines so that you can see the radiator from the rear. The flap fits onto the kit with no issue but I think it just looks better to have it open as per the real aircraft . . . Here is my take on the modification, pretty straight forward Ian 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Can anybody help who might have done this ? I am trying to work out how to mount the radiator in the engine nacelle without the engine . . . HK have provided the 'dummy' fitting, which they dont mention, but a great idea for fitting the exhausts out of the cowling but I think they forgot about fitting the radiator at the bottom. The rad is fitted with two pins that secure into the bottom of the engine, Y8, but there is no location/slot for the rad to fit into securely by itself within the bottom cowling itself . . . Ian 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 20 minutes ago, FME erk said: Can anybody help who might have done this ? I am trying to work out how to mount the radiator in the engine nacelle without the engine . . . HK have provided the 'dummy' fitting, which they dont mention, for the exhausts out of the cowling but I think they totally forgot about fitting the radiator at the bottom. The rad is fitted with two pins that secure into the bottom of the engine but there is no location/slot for the rad to fit into securely by itself . . . what were they thinking ??? Ian I had to build all engines for my Lanc due to rotating props. But if I look at mine, the front face of the radiator is exactly at the rear of the intake. No space in between. Hope this helps a little... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 15 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said: For sure it helps Ian. It‘s over for mine but now I understand what you mean! Thanks! Here’s another picture showing clearly the need for shortening the MLG: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 10 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said: I had to build all engines for my Lanc due to rotating props. But if I look at mine, the front face of the radiator is exactly at the rear of the intake. No space in between. Hope this helps a little... Forgot to say: I would just glue it to the back of the intake... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 2 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said: Here’s another picture showing clearly the need for shortening the MLG: That clearly shows that when you build the model you should NOT be able to see the crossbar on the central brace . . . thanks for sharing that photo . . . 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlrwestSiR Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Nice idea on the cowling flaps. I may have to do the same. I have some pics of VR-A when she was getting her engines serviced but oddly enough, missed the gear. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 Great photo Carl, thanks for sharing those . . . Certainly a lot of pipes and wiring to try and incorporate into the model Ian 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 The next small change I have attempted are the engine rads that sit at the bottom of the engine and are viewable through front engine intake . . . The photos that Carl has posted show what looks to be a wartime pattern of radiator type. The kit radiator is a post-war type and that type only has two halves ie a single divide. Carls photo show THREE sections and the second photo shows the example taken from the film 'Night Bombers' Third photo shows the rad off 'Just Jane' with its two sections and the type molded in the kit . . . My attempts to replicate the 3 section radiator, probably a first for this kit . . . I didnt use the part No 3 from the kit and originally the bottom section of the rad was curved as in the wartime photo but It would not fit into the front cowl from the kit so was therefore cut at angles to fit in . . . Moving onto the next modification . . . hey ho Ian 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Great attention to detail Ian, those engines look so small against the mass of the Lanc. It would be interesting to do a Hercules engined Lanc next........ 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 3 hours ago, Bomber_County said: Great attention to detail Ian, those engines look so small against the mass of the Lanc. It would be interesting to do a Hercules engined Lanc next........ If only somebody was brave enough to create a 3D render and produce one for production . . . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 5 hours ago, FME erk said: The next small change I have attempted are the engine rads that sit at the bottom of the engine and are viewable through front engine intake . . . The photos that Carl has posted show what looks to be a wartime pattern of radiator type. The kit radiator is a post-war type and that type only has two halves ie a single divide. Carls photo show THREE sections and the second photo shows the example taken from the film 'Night Bombers' Third photo shows the rad off 'Just Jane' with its two sections and the type molded in the kit . . . My attempts to replicate the 3 section radiator, probably a first for this kit . . . I didnt use the part No 3 from the kit and originally the bottom section of the rad was curved as in the wartime photo but It would not fit into the front cowl from the kit so was therefore cut at angles to fit in . . . Moving onto the next modification . . . hey ho Ian When you want to correct the radiators it is also important not to only change the radiator shape but also the intake. NX611 and PA474 are FE-Lancasters with corresponding radiators. All Lancs of the European Theatre had the normal radiators with angled intake. HK did both wrong. See attached picture. BTW: I didn’t correct that neither... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 HK's main undercarriage legs have two 'holes' in the verticals yet on the real aircraft they are a solid cast. Why HK molded these like this is anybodys guess . . . After applying HK sprue glue to the undercarriage legs last Friday, I finally rubbed them down, still on the sprue, to obtain the end result . . . Thanks for looking in, more to come sooon Ian 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlrwestSiR Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Nice job on improving the gear legs Ian. I'm wondering anyone has compared the length of the recent brass gear legs that Aerocraft came out with to see if they're shorter. They filled in the voids in the HK legs. Kai, I believe the Canadian built Mk X Lancs had the square rad openings and corresponding rad shape depicted in the kit. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said: I'm wondering anyone has compared the length of the recent brass gear legs that Aerocraft came out with to see if they're shorter. They filled in the voids in the HK legs. You make a good point Carl, if they just simply copied the kit legs then they too will be to tall . . . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Another error in the kit that could have been avoided if better care had been taken when doing the research . . The tailplanes: probably best described on Nigels Modelling bench, I think the only video that is still available, He states that he was not the one to discover the issue but he certainly was the one to rectify it so all credit to Nige. Basically HK molded the same to tailplanes Isometrically, there are two top pieces that fit on the port side, creating a top and bottom, which glue together and two bottom pieces that fit the starb'd side in the same manner. I have now carried out the modification . . . You can see the part numbers on the instruction sheet but when you alter the pieces you end up with the parts allocated thus . . . (see third photo) You will note the part numbers . . . differing from the instruction sheet . . . and finally we have a tailplane where there are inspection panels beneath both the starboard and port tailplanes I hope that its all as clear as mud . . . till the next time cheers Ian 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 32 minutes ago, FME erk said: Another error in the kit that could have been avoided if better care had been taken when doing the research . . The tailplanes: probably best described on Nigels Modelling bench, I think the only video that is still available, He states that he was not the one to discover the issue but he certainly was the one to rectify it so all credit to Nige. Basically HK molded the same to tailplanes Isometrically, there are two top pieces that fit on the port side, creating a top and bottom, which glue together and two bottom pieces that fit the starb'd side in the same manner. I have now carried out the modification . . . You can see the part numbers on the instruction sheet but when you alter the pieces you end up with the parts allocated thus . . . (see third photo) You will note the part numbers . . . differing from the instruction sheet . . . and finally we have a tailplane where there are inspection panels beneath both the starboard and port tailplanes I hope that its all as clear as mud . . . till the next time cheers Ian Thanks for the clarification, Ian. The way Nigel corrected this is really simple! For those who have the HK Dambuster in stock or on the bench: HK corrected this fault so no extra work necessary here... (but in many other places ) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Thanks for the update, its nice to know they did change something . . . . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 As I intend to have my rear entry door open - it only seems right to have the step correct . . . its only a small issue but needs correcting First pic shows the kit step and in particular the shape, I have seen this in 'Just Jane', NX611 Quick fix . . . . . . and the fact that I shall have the crew ladder in place will only draw attention to the entrance 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FME erk Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 On 1/17/2021 at 4:02 PM, Kaireckstadt said: When you want to correct the radiators it is also important not to only change the radiator shape but also the intake. NX611 and PA474 are FE-Lancasters with corresponding radiators. All Lancs of the European Theatre had the normal radiators with angled intake. HK did both wrong. See attached picture. BTW: I didn’t correct that neither... Kai You could glue the very front section that covers the radiator opening, once dried apply Mr. Surfacer, rub flat and IF all goes well one could scribe the 'new' angled vertical line(s) . . . . Just a micro-second thought Ian 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaireckstadt Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 2 hours ago, FME erk said: Kai You could glue the very front section that covers the radiator opening, once dried apply Mr. Surfacer, rub flat and IF all goes well one could scribe the 'new' angled vertical line(s) . . . . Just a micro-second thought Ian That’s a very good idea, Ian! Can‘t wait to see how it turned out! I didn’t realize that the step is also wrong! Is there anything HK did right?... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Just wish we had a crystal ball to be able to look over the full WnW kit of their Lanc...... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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