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Lancaster ND644 in 32nd scale


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8 hours ago, FME erk said:

As previously mentioned on the first page, two defects on the wings, the Port upper side had a second Dinghy stowage hatch and the starboard underside has landing lights . . . 

After applying Mr. Surfacer some weeks ago I have now eliminated both issues and hopefully you will be able to see the results as I hold the pieces in the correct light to photograph them  . . . 

The next thing that wants attention are the undercarriage legs. In the photo you can see the 'hole' in the vertical strut. It would probably support the kit no problem but there shouldn't be such a hole therefore I shall be sinking some sprue glue in there to make good. Also, the 'Non-retracting bar needs removing for I have not seen any photos of this in place on a wartime aircraft, I suspect its used on todays flying examples  . . .

More to come 

best regards

Ian

 

HK Dinghy 2.JPG

HK Dinghy Wing.JPG

HK Star landing lights .JPG

HK Undercarriage .JPG

Well done, Ian. This is really a must. I can’t understand why HK made this mistake. 

You mentioned before that you have to shorten the legs. Where do you have to shorten them and how much? 

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I haven't shortened the legs yet so cant give details but if you look at the actual aircraft and see where this is compared to the bottom of the cowling then compare to kits that have been made you will see that it does need to be shortened . . . . Note the central brace, you cannot see the horizontal cross bar at the top of that brace . . . 

I hope that helps ??

Avro_Lancaster_FM213_undercarriage_CWHM_p14.jpg

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6 hours ago, FME erk said:

I haven't shortened the legs yet so cant give details but if you look at the actual aircraft and see where this is compared to the bottom of the cowling then compare to kits that have been made you will see that it does need to be shortened . . . . Note the central brace, you cannot see the horizontal cross bar at the top of that brace . . . 

I hope that helps ??

Avro_Lancaster_FM213_undercarriage_CWHM_p14.jpg

For sure it helps Ian. It‘s over for mine but now I understand what you mean!

Thanks!

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Another mod that is a personal choice is the opening of the bottom cowling on the engines so that you can see the radiator from the rear. The flap fits onto the kit with no issue but I think it just looks better to have it open as per the real aircraft  . . .

Here is my take on the modification, pretty straight forward

HK-Lanc-rad-vents.jpg

Ian

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Can anybody help who might have done this ?

I am trying to work out how to mount the radiator in the engine nacelle without the engine  . . .

HK have provided the 'dummy' fitting, which they dont mention, but a great idea for fitting the exhausts out of the cowling but I think they  forgot about fitting the radiator at the bottom. The rad is fitted with two pins that secure into the bottom of the engine, Y8,  but there is no location/slot for the rad to fit into securely by itself within the bottom cowling itself  . . . 

Ian

 

HK Radiators fixing  (2).JPG

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20 minutes ago, FME erk said:

Can anybody help who might have done this ?

I am trying to work out how to mount the radiator in the engine nacelle without the engine  . . .

HK have provided the 'dummy' fitting, which they dont mention, for the exhausts out of the cowling but I think they totally forgot about fitting the radiator at the bottom. The rad is fitted with two pins that secure into the bottom of the engine but there is no location/slot for the rad to fit into securely by itself  . . . what were they thinking  ???

Ian

 

HK Radiators fixing  (2).JPG

I had to build all engines for my Lanc due to rotating props.

But if I look at mine, the front face of the radiator is exactly at the rear of the intake. No space in between. 
Hope this helps a little...

128828BC-8F7C-4370-9BE8-47B6BFAD32ED.jpeg

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10 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

I had to build all engines for my Lanc due to rotating props.

But if I look at mine, the front face of the radiator is exactly at the rear of the intake. No space in between. 
Hope this helps a little...

128828BC-8F7C-4370-9BE8-47B6BFAD32ED.jpeg

Forgot to say: I would just glue it to the back of the intake...

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2 minutes ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Here’s another picture showing clearly the need for shortening the MLG:

08C3BB53-5B2B-4A77-A767-690529F8287A.jpeg

That clearly shows that when you build the model you should NOT be able to see the crossbar on the central brace . . . thanks for sharing that photo  . . .

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The next small change I have attempted are the engine rads that sit at the bottom of the engine and are viewable through front engine intake  . . .

The photos that Carl has posted show what looks to be a wartime pattern of radiator type. The kit radiator is a post-war type and that type only has two halves ie a single divide. Carls photo show THREE sections and the second photo shows the example taken from the film 'Night Bombers'

Third photo shows the rad off 'Just Jane' with its two sections and the type molded in the kit  . . .

My attempts to replicate the 3 section radiator, probably a first for this kit  . . .

I didnt use the part No 3 from the kit and originally the bottom section of the rad was curved as in the wartime photo but It would not fit into the front cowl from the kit so was therefore cut at angles to fit in . . .  

Moving onto the next modification  . . . hey ho 

Ian

 

 

HK engine panel .JPG

Radiator wartime pattern .JPG

Engine detail exposed.jpg

IMG_2317.JPG

IMG_2318.JPG

IMG_2319.JPG

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3 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Great attention to detail Ian, those engines look so small against the mass of the Lanc. It would be interesting to do a Hercules engined Lanc next........:D

If only somebody was brave enough to create a 3D render and produce one for production  . . . :secret:

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5 hours ago, FME erk said:

The next small change I have attempted are the engine rads that sit at the bottom of the engine and are viewable through front engine intake  . . .

The photos that Carl has posted show what looks to be a wartime pattern of radiator type. The kit radiator is a post-war type and that type only has two halves ie a single divide. Carls photo show THREE sections and the second photo shows the example taken from the film 'Night Bombers'

Third photo shows the rad off 'Just Jane' with its two sections and the type molded in the kit  . . .

My attempts to replicate the 3 section radiator, probably a first for this kit  . . .

I didnt use the part No 3 from the kit and originally the bottom section of the rad was curved as in the wartime photo but It would not fit into the front cowl from the kit so was therefore cut at angles to fit in . . .  

Moving onto the next modification  . . . hey ho 

Ian

 

 

HK engine panel .JPG

Radiator wartime pattern .JPG

Engine detail exposed.jpg

IMG_2317.JPG

IMG_2318.JPG

IMG_2319.JPG

When you want to correct the radiators it is also important not to only change the radiator shape but also the intake. NX611 and PA474 are FE-Lancasters with corresponding radiators. 
All Lancs of the European Theatre had the normal radiators with angled intake. 
HK did both wrong. See attached picture. BTW: I didn’t correct that neither...

 

ADC10222-63BF-4C87-9E0C-BC2A332FBA8E.jpeg

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HK's main undercarriage legs have two 'holes' in the verticals yet on the real aircraft they are a solid cast. Why HK molded these like this is anybodys guess . . . 

After applying HK sprue glue to the undercarriage legs last Friday, I finally rubbed them down, still on the sprue, to obtain the end result . . . 

Thanks for looking in, more to come sooon :D

Ian

HK Undercarriage .JPG

HK Undercarriage filled .JPG

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Nice job on improving the gear legs Ian. 

I'm wondering anyone has compared the length of the recent brass gear legs that Aerocraft came out with to see if they're shorter. They filled in the voids in the HK legs. 

Kai, I believe the Canadian built Mk X Lancs had the square rad openings and corresponding rad shape depicted in the kit.

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1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said:

 

I'm wondering anyone has compared the length of the recent brass gear legs that Aerocraft came out with to see if they're shorter. They filled in the voids in the HK legs. 

 

You make a good point Carl, if they just simply copied the kit legs then they too will be to tall . . . 

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Another error in the kit that could have been avoided if better care had been taken when doing the research . . 

The tailplanes: probably best described on Nigels Modelling bench, I think the only video that is still available,

He states that he was not the one to discover the issue but he certainly was the one to rectify it so all credit to Nige. Basically HK molded the same to tailplanes Isometrically, there are two top pieces that fit on the port side, creating a top and bottom, which glue together and two bottom pieces that fit the starb'd side in the same manner.

I have now carried out the modification . . . 

You can see the part numbers on the instruction sheet but when you alter the pieces you end up with the parts allocated thus . . . (see third photo)

258256834_HKTailplaneconstruct(1).thumb.JPG.59e63e3ee5ef580cfed326162c00bd82.JPG

HK Tailplane construct  (2).JPG

You will note the part numbers . . . differing from the instruction sheet

HK Tailplane construction  (4).JPG

 . . . and finally we have a tailplane where there are inspection panels beneath both the starboard and port tailplanes

144285002_HKTailplaneconstruction(3).thumb.JPG.787c098a6a43a13f554c0770ab27697d.JPG

I hope that its all as clear as mud  . . .

till the next time 

cheers 

Ian

 

 

 

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32 minutes ago, FME erk said:

Another error in the kit that could have been avoided if better care had been taken when doing the research . . 

The tailplanes: probably best described on Nigels Modelling bench, I think the only video that is still available,

He states that he was not the one to discover the issue but he certainly was the one to rectify it so all credit to Nige. Basically HK molded the same to tailplanes Isometrically, there are two top pieces that fit on the port side, creating a top and bottom, which glue together and two bottom pieces that fit the starb'd side in the same manner.

I have now carried out the modification . . . 

You can see the part numbers on the instruction sheet but when you alter the pieces you end up with the parts allocated thus . . . (see third photo)

258256834_HKTailplaneconstruct(1).thumb.JPG.59e63e3ee5ef580cfed326162c00bd82.JPG

HK Tailplane construct  (2).JPG

You will note the part numbers . . . differing from the instruction sheet

HK Tailplane construction  (4).JPG

 . . . and finally we have a tailplane where there are inspection panels beneath both the starboard and port tailplanes

144285002_HKTailplaneconstruction(3).thumb.JPG.787c098a6a43a13f554c0770ab27697d.JPG

I hope that its all as clear as mud  . . .

till the next time 

cheers 

Ian

 

 

 

Thanks for the clarification, Ian. The way Nigel corrected this is really simple! 

For those who have the HK Dambuster in stock or on the bench:

HK corrected this fault so no extra work necessary here... (but in many other places :angry:)

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As I intend to have my rear entry door open -  it only seems right to have the step correct  . . . its only a small issue but needs correcting

First pic shows the kit step and in particular the shape, I have seen this in 'Just Jane', NX611

2103345932_HKrearStep(2).thumb.JPG.50d260ba3b70a68996e8835bd3b2d3f4.JPG

Quick fix . . . 

704104683_HKrearStep(1).thumb.JPG.ef64988dddac4d48aab823e585058789.JPG

  . . . and the fact that I shall have the crew ladder in place will only draw attention to the entrance

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On 1/17/2021 at 4:02 PM, Kaireckstadt said:

When you want to correct the radiators it is also important not to only change the radiator shape but also the intake. NX611 and PA474 are FE-Lancasters with corresponding radiators. 
All Lancs of the European Theatre had the normal radiators with angled intake. 
HK did both wrong. See attached picture. BTW: I didn’t correct that neither...

 

ADC10222-63BF-4C87-9E0C-BC2A332FBA8E.jpeg

Kai

You could glue the very front section that covers the radiator opening, once dried apply Mr. Surfacer, rub flat and IF all goes well one could scribe the 'new' angled vertical line(s)  . . . .

Just a micro-second thought :huh:

Ian

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2 hours ago, FME erk said:

Kai

You could glue the very front section that covers the radiator opening, once dried apply Mr. Surfacer, rub flat and IF all goes well one could scribe the 'new' angled vertical line(s)  . . . .

Just a micro-second thought :huh:

Ian

That’s a very good idea, Ian!

Can‘t wait to see how it turned out! 
 

I didn’t realize that the step is also wrong! Is there anything HK did right?...:wallbash:

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