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James H

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  1. Awesome! I will be watching for tips. I don't have this kit, but I do have the BR86 Dampflokomotiv.
  2. 1:32 Dottie Mae (P-47D Thunderbolt) Limited Edition Eduard 'EduArt release' Catalogue # 11103 Available from Eduard and other good hobby retailers The P-47 Thunderbolt, designed by Russian expatriate Alexander Kartweli of Republic Aviation, and first flown in 1941 was quite an oddity among the sleek, lightweight fighters now possessed by both the Allied and Axis forces at that time. The ‘Jug’ as it became known, was the heaviest and largest single-engine fighter of its day, and with that came a price tag to match. Powered by the Pratt & Whitney R-2800 ‘Double Wasp’ engine, rated at 2000BHP, any disadvantages borne from the P-47’s physical attributes were overcome in order to make the P-47 Thunderbolt the most numerous fighter built in American history. After some initial technical difficulties and compromises, the ‘Jug’ was eventually fitted with a universal wing, allowing it to carry external fuel stores and bombs simultaneously. The high backed ‘razor’ spine of the earlier machines was also cut down to produce a fuselage allowing a bubble-canopy, giving the pilots a much better field of view. To counter resulting stability problems with the modified fuselage, a dorsal fin was added, fore of the vertical tail-plane. Carrying a powerful battery of eight Browning .50 calibre MG’s, the Jug could also carry those bombs and rockets, making it a deadly adversary late in WW2, when they roamed free, at low level, over occupied territory, destroying ground based targets. Serving with distinction both in European and Pacific theatres of war, the Thunderbolt served with the US until the late 1940’s. Other countries to use the type included the Soviet Union, United Kingdom, France, Republic of China, with the Peruvian Air Force using the type, up until its ultimate retirement from service in 1966. Whilst I haven’t built much Hasegawa over the last 10 years, there have been a couple of releases that I either missed, or had them and subsequently gave them away in a moment of weakness. One of these was the P-47D in its ‘Tarheel Hal’ incarnation, and I’ve regretted it ever since. When it leaked out that Eduard would release this as a limited edition, complete with their own resin and photo-etch, then I knew I had to take a look at this one again. I’ve long been a fan of Romain Hugault’s gorgeous aviation artwork, so for Eduard to ask him to collaborate on this release was a stroke of genius. If you’ve never seen Romain’s work before, check it out on his FaceBook page at https://www.facebook.com/romainhugault . To cap it off, a poster of the box art is supplied in the kit, carefully rolled up. The original kit was released in 2007 (08077) and has now seen four more subsequent releases (08174, 08187, 08202 and 08218 ) prior to this one. Packaged into a sumptuous, but slightly oversize box with Romain’s quite sexy Dottie Mae painting adorning the box, this kit comprises TWENTY sprues of light grey plastic, ONE clear sprue and THREE flexible sprues of polythene caps. FOUR of the smaller grey plastic sprues aren’t actually used for this release, comprising alternate props and undercarriage bay sections for the wing. A number of these sprues are fairly small and it’s common to see a number of them lined together on the same runner. A small number of other parts won’t be required for this release, with additional parts being supplied in both resin and photo-etch. Eduard purchases the sprues directly from Japan, and as a result, they are packaged all together in one single bag. I do find this a little frustrating with such a high value kit, but Eduard aren’t entirely to blame for that. The polycaps are packed into another, small packet. Thankfully, this kit exhibits no damage from being packaged this way. The outward appearance of this kit is very typical of Hasegawa releases in both style and execution, the exterior being devoid of rivets, with the exception of a small number of beautifully reproduced slotted fasteners where appropriate. Panel lines, access ports and other engraved details are of the highest standard in being crisp, even and of scale appearance. The control surfaces of this kit are moulded in situ meaning you will need to do a little surgery if you want to pose them dynamically. Their representation is very good, with them actually appearing to be separate despite the integral moulding. Rivet detail, where applicable in these areas, is recessed and very subtle. The cockpit is very well appointed, straight out of box, but this is an area of course where Eduard intervenes with their photo-etch expertise. This area is constructed as a module, complete with excellent side wall detail, suitably detailed instrument panel with raised instrument detail, rudder pedal assembly and other equipment. Of course, this doesn’t mean that things can’t be improved upon, and Eduard’s colour-printed PE parts come to the fore here, helping elevate the detail stakes further. Some kit parts are augmented further with colour PE, such as the throttle quadrant. Whilst the kit seat has no belts, Eduard has fixed this by not only the inclusion of a set of colour photo-etch belts, but also with the addition of a much more refined PE seat itself. Full colour reference is also provided for the cockpit, helping you with the painting stage. It goes without saying that there will be a certain amount of surgery needed to fit Eduard’s parts, including some destruction for things like the instrument panel. Here, all raised detail needs to be removed before the multi-layer colour PE instrument panel is fitted. This cockpit module fits into an innovative wing spar which both helps place the cockpit at the right altitude and position, and also gives the wings themselves a positive location with the correct dihedral and rigidity needed for a kit of this size. The design here is excellent. An insert fitting between the two fuselage halves is also included, complete with polycaps so that you may pug/un-plug the centre-line fuel tank. Should you wish to fit him, a pilot is also included, and this looks pretty reasonable, although it seems a shame to obscure much of the multimedia cockpit that is included. The Pratt & Whitney engine is moulded with the two rows of cylinders being separate parts. Each bank of cylinders is a single part too, with no unsightly seams needing to be exorcised around the circumference. A push rod ring and a small number of other parts complete this assembly. Eduard has included a PE ignition harness here. These are always a little tricky to fit, but when they are, brushing the PE with a little dilute white glue helps to make things look a little less flat. The supercharger fits to the engine bulkhead, and a four-piece cowl cover engine with a forward ring helping the alignment of the cowl parts. The radiator flap ring is supplied in both open and closed options. Four prop sets are included here, with two options being used for the three schemes included. The undercarriage is well presented with separate brake lines and excellent definition. No need to use the two-part, un-weighted plastic wheels either, and to remove the seams, thanks to the resin parts that come as standard in this new release. The undercarriage main bays are excellent, with crisp detail and some ancillary equipment in there. The outer, rear part of the well shape from the wing is separate, with their being two different types within the kit, despite only one of them being for this specific release. Inner undercarriage doors are also cleverly designed. These were quite chunky on the P-47, and Hasegawa have made these out of an inner and outer part so that no pin marks can be seen. Again, Eduard has included further PE detail to add to these, for further enhancement. Landing flaps can be modelled in either a raised or lowered position, with the hinges being individual parts and quite detailed and the placing of them being rigid and positive. More PE is used here for hinge plate detail, and to cover the flap ends which are moulded without any detail. Under-wing pylons are included so you may mount bombs or fuel tanks, and the latter are plugged onto these pylons by means of more polycaps. Check out the next review further down, for a Brassin alternative to the rocket launchers. External stores include an optional centreline drop tank, two wing mounted drop tanks and two bombs. All grey plastic parts are exceptionally moulded with no flash, poor seams or issues with ejector pin marks. The clear sprue holds two canopies. One of these is a single piece, closed option, while the two separate parts are for the open option. Landing and formation lights and gun-sight reflectors. Moulding is excellent with the parts being beautifully clear and well defined. Photo-etch parts Two frets are included here, with one of these being printed in colour. A number of parts here are for enhancing the cockpit, with a new seat, instrument panel, console detail, seatbelts rear canopy rail etc. whilst others are for the engine, wheel wells, and numerous small exterior details. As is typical of Eduard’s PE sets, these are beautifully made and the colour inking is very nice. Resin parts If you were expecting a wealth of resin in this release, then you might be disappointed. The only resin parts there are here are for the wheels. The main wheels have a separate outer hub, giving real depth to the inner details moulded on the main wheel. These parts, apart from replacing the crappy Hasegawa parts, are for me, a very nice addition to this kit. Tread detail is excellent, and thankfully, there is little clean-up to perform once you remove them from the casting block. Casting is also perfect, with no flaws. Masks A single, small sheet of kabuki masking is included, with parts for the canopy and the wheels. Simple, but a real time saver! As always, sharply cut. Eduard’s instruction manual is a 12 page A4 production with black and white drawings that have a little colour included to highlight where surgery is required, or where a resin/PE part is to be placed. All drawings are extremely clear and easy to follow, with good part notation and a sprue plan showing parts NOT to be used as shaded out portions. Paint codes are given for GSO Creos Aqueous paint, and Mr Color. The latter pages include full colour profiles for three schemes. These are: P-47D-28-RA, Lt. Larry A. Kuhl, 511th FS, 405th FG, 9th AF, Saint Dizier, December 1944 P-47D-26-RA, Lt. James R. Hopkins, 509th FS, 405th FG, 9th AF, Ophoven, Belgium, March 1945 P-47D-28-RA, Lt. Francis Norr, 510th FS, 405th FG, 9th AF, Saint Dizier, France, January 1945 A single sheet of decals is included for all three schemes. Printed by Cartograf, these are nice and thin, and printed in both solid and authentic colour with minimal carrier film. The decals also include a variety of stencils as well as several for the cockpit. Printing is in perfect register. Conclusion For Eduard, this was an inspired choice of collaborative release. In 1:32, this is simply the best, most accurate and P-47D kit that money can buy, and if you’ve never had the pleasure of seeing a Thunderbolt kit, then the size of this beast will surprise you. All of the Hasegawa P-47D releases are excellent, and Eduard’s new incarnation is no exception. Three great colour scheme on a fantastic kit, some lovely resin and PE parts and a Romain Hugault poster to adorn the man cave wall. Get this one whilst you can. I believe they are selling like the proverbial hot cakes at the moment! Highly recommended. My sincere thanks to Eduard for the review kit seen here. To buy this directly from Eduard, click THIS link.
  3. Hi all, My car-door Typhoon is now finished. As much as this kit can punish the senses, I really do like it very much. Watch out for it in the next reprint of the 'How to Build...' book from Doolittle Media:
  4. Unfortunately, the old photobucket account was killed before I could save the images I needed.
  5. Update, anyone? I've been busy juggling a few builds recently, so apologies for weeks that have passed here. This model is building up quite quickly now, but you really have to make sure that you are precise with all construction, as the tolerances are high and the part count also high. To set the spars onto the lower wing, clamps were used with sanding sticks to aid placement. Cocktail sticks are used to push the spars hard against the edge of their location. Most of the plastic parts in the gun bays were ditched in favour of Eduard's resin guns/ammo and photo-etch bins. I have to say that this really adds to proceedings when compared to the kit parts, with no ugly, ill-places seams to fix. This is a LARGE model, and it shows at this stage. It's hard not to keep knocking the crap out of this as you start to manipulate it. More soon.
  6. Most definitely Mirror Models/LZ - related. Lovely kit and nice review. Hope you build this one soon.
  7. What a great show. Pity I missed it.
  8. You guys did a great job! Superb setup and attractive banners. It'll be hard to trump for 2017 (no pun!), but we'll be even better and stronger.
  9. Iwata Smart Jet Pro compressor I’ve long been a fan of Iwata airbrushes and compressors, having used both their original Smart Jet Pro and Handle-Tank compressors. I foolishly gave away my original Smart Jet Pro, so was delighted to be given the opportunity to look at another release of this compressor. Before I even opened the packaging, the differences were significant, in being that the box was a lot smaller than my original, and it also weighs around 7% less. This new model is roughly 18% less in length that its predecessor, and 13% and 8% less in width and height, respectively. Iwata’s new Smart Jet Pro is packaged into a robust and attractive box, and within, all parts are well packed with foam blocks, to minimise any potential damage. A 3 metre plastic (vinyl) hose is included, although I do prefer a braided hose for extra strength. Hose adapters are included for Aztec, Paasche and Badger airbrushes, and a spare airbrush holder and screw are also present. As with the old version of this compressor, the new Smart Jet Pro has an oil-less piston, and an induction motor at its core that delivers 1/8HP. These are encased in a robust sheet metal chassis that has a carrying handle screwed to the top, as well as parts for a single airbrush holder that is fitted here too. This model is designed to run a single airbrush only. Broad rubber feet dampen any possible vibration. An On/Off switch is mounted on the top, for easy access. Note the absence of a tank too. Constant pressure is maintained via a cooling hose, so no pulsing of output at any pressure you choose to set. I typically airbrush at around 12PSI for a variety of paints, including Gunze, Mr Paint, and Tamiya, but have tested this at a higher pressure with Alclad and White Ensign enamel. Running at super low pressure as well as testing at 30PSI showed no problem with continual, pulse-free output. A pressure switch system continually monitors your chosen PSI output, and pressing the trigger of your airbrush causes the system to kick into life. This compressor is a part of Iwata’s Studio Series, and delivers the same power as its predecessor, but leaving you with a little extra worktop space into the deal. Looking through the specification for the new compressor, there does seem to be a little underplaying of one piece of data, namely the Air Flow. The old version delivered an air flow of 0.42 CFM (12 litres per minute), but the new one delivers 0.64 CFM, with Iwata still saying this is equivalent to 12 litres/min. One website did more accurately give this as being 16 litres/min. A regulator is easily accessible to set your output pressure, with the gauge being easily seen with the gauge face peering through the top chassis/case. Remember set your pressure whilst drawing air through your airbrush, and not whilst the pressure is static. To set the pressure, valve head is upwards which allows you to adjust this, and then you push this back downwards to lock things in place. A moisture filter is also included. I work in quite a warm room, and although I have used this only for a couple of workshop sessions, nothing was evident in the trap. This by no means a silent running compressor, with the stated noise output given as 50db, but it certainly seems quieter than this, and any noise is quickly forgotten about whilst working. During my test, I worked with an Iwata HP-C+ airbrush, and used the compressor for extended sessions, but never up to the maximum 60 minutes continuous use, set out in the specifications. Iwata’s own technical details are thus, with my addition to the air flow data. • Low maintenance, oil-less single piston air compressor • Quiet running 1/8 HP induction motor • Air flow: 0.64 CFM (12 l/m) at open flow ( I think more like 18 l/m) • Working pressure from 0 psi to 35 psi • Smart Technology automatic switching reduces running time and motor wear (30 psi on / 50 psi off) • Protective outer case • Cooling hose and moisture filter inside case, which remove the moisture and prevent pulsing • Mounted pressure gauge • Air regulator for precise air pressure adjustment • Comes with a 3 metre (10') vinyl hose • One 1/4 BSP outlet • Built in airbrush holder • On/off switch • Voltage: 220-240V 50Hz • Noise level: 50 decibels Duty cycle: 60 minutes continuous use. Please allow the motor to rest for at least 20 minutes after each cycle of continuous use. Iwata compressors and airbrushes are available through www.airbrushes.com or other good Iwata stockists. Price at time of writing is £285 inc. VAT. My thanks to The Airbrush Company for this review sample.
  10. Most excellent, Jeroen. No comparison between the two kits. Some say the nose is wrong on the SH kit, but I have to say I can't see where. Some folks must have eyes with micrometres built in, and HUD millimetre scales.
  11. I'd rather build a Pou du Ciel than either of these. At least I don't need to hanker for anything from ZM for a while now
  12. Time for an update. Got quite a bit of progress done, and the cockpit is now installed, and the engine bay weathered. Tamiya NATO Black was used for the instrument panel and consoles. No doubt that this model is pretty comprehensive in detail, and I've not felt the need to add anything further. Let the plastic speak for itself.
  13. There is a LOT of seam removal on the cockpit parts. Only a little flash from my experience, except on on the engine ignition harnesses. Got to say that when you see the detail supplied, fixing the seams is only a trifle. A necessary evil for what is otherwise a lovely build. My kit also had some frame warping that I had to fix with dipping parts in freshly boiled water. Parts fit is excellent. ....seriously.....don't let that put you off! It sounds worse than what it is.
  14. 1/24 Hawker Typhoon Mk.1B 'car door' No 486 (NZ) Sqn. RAF Tangmere 'Operation Spartan' In 2014, Airfix contacted me and asked if I would build them the original bubble-top incarnation of their 1/24 Typhoon. As they had three other modellers also building, I was left with the shark mouth scheme....not that I was complaining. The model took around 7 weeks from start to finish and was one of the most satisfying builds I'd tackled in years. The blue infill on the mouth was also a talking point . There's no doubt that the finished model is impressive and imposing, yet not without its issues, such as seams that need removing, and some complicated plumbing work. Like many other modellers, the Typhoon that really interested us was the earlier car-door version. Thankfully, Airfix recently released this one, and I was asked again to build too. Original kit photos The new release looks as engaging, but isn't without a few niggles. I will be building scheme 'B' which is the earliest machine from the options given. This means removing the fish plates from the tail strengthening joint, meaning the missing detail from under the plates will need to be restored. Despite this being a necessary evil, for some bizarre reason, Airfix will have you slice away the plastic on the deck to the rear of the pilot, and replace it with an insert. The reason? Simply to replace the moulded detail with a less detailed alternative. Having tried this and screwing up a fuselage half, I decided to just remove the raised plastic detail and recreate the lapped panel detail, as per the tail unit fish tail area. Makes sense? Good, I thought so. Before After This Typhoon is quite interesting. Like all schemes in this release, it has a three-bladed propeller, but it also has the early style car door canopy, early narrow chord tailplane, and short cannon fairings. If you think you'll see lots of weapons underneath the wings, then you'll be wrong. This one carries no external ordnance. Yes.....a plain wing, unhindered by things hanging from it! After scraping the frames and other internal parts (for two whole days), the entire internal framework was assembled and then airbrushed with Xtreme Metal Aluminium. After a coat of Klear, a wash was added. Here is the result. I still need to add further staining and detail paintwork, but you get the idea. You'll also note the early pilot seat headrest/bulkhead. More soon........
  15. Mine is now started too, so watching this one. It still worries me when you see how you have to force open the fuselage frames to add the seat bulkhead. It sort of looks wrong, but of course it isn't.
  16. Apart from the spinner, I can't see anything really different at all. I think I'd stick with the kit parts.
  17. Very cool! At this speed, she'll be done for the end of the month. Did you check those wing root joints? I scraped away a little at the joint so they recessed a little further.
  18. I know you're loving this one! Possibly the best fitting kit you ever built. Also good that you are building it in a derelict state and weathering the crap out of it. Looks damn fine so far
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