sluggo

I don't know either of you but I can assure you the file I posted above and gifted to Mark was of my own hand and was driven by free will. If I choose to share my work that's my prerogative.

I ordered mine from Sprue Brothers, They were due yesterday. Apparently, due to covid, UPS had to ship them from Kansas City to Fort Worth, past Houston to San Antonio, then back to Houston for delivery. Seems like efficient routing.

1958 Oldsmobuick muffler bearing! Nice find.

Something like this?

Check out this video. A Pete 389 with a similar trailer and track hoe.

Ernie, Terribly sorry to hear of you and Joy's loss. Please accept and pass my condolences on to the family.

Well Gents, looks like the Panzerhund is the first build to make it off my bench since 2016. Hopefully the slump is broken. I'm calling it finished but I may add a little rust here and there and maybe pick out a little more detail. A couple of firsts for me along the way. Overall I'm pretty happy with it even though I blasted through it and the markings are not true to the game series.

Mighty impressive!

Just read it on their website. http://www.nats2020.com/index.html what a pisser

.05 layer height. It's from the Wolfenstein game series. It's downloadable. I printed it at 50% of it's normal size and it's still 7.5 inches long. I purchased the file here: https://www.malix3design.com/2018/01/panzerhund-3d-printable-model.html#!/~/ There's a free one out there that's pretty basic. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/panzerhund-robot-attack-dog

3D printed PanzerHund. I still seem to be struggling with finishing anything. I got a resin printer recently and this is one of the things I printed. Around 28 hours of print time. Maybe something totally different will be the slump breaker. So, we'll give it a whirl. Base coat: Alclad chrome. Main color: RLM70 I've done all the chipping and applied a couple of coats of future. Lots of oil stains, rust and general weathering to go. Needs some markings too.

There's plenty other bugs going around. I had a sore throat one evening, woke up the next day with real hoarse voice. The next morning, nothing.... like it never happened.

Indeed.

Is anyone still going to San Marcos? Looks like it's going to be a go.

I use Fusion360 as well. They offer a free hobbyist license and it's made by AutoDesk so if you have any autocad skills or oddly enough vector drawing skills you have a head start. I use Chitubox to slice resin stuff and Simplify3D for filament stuff. Just a quick run through. 3D printing is an additive manufacturing process. Meaning that the part is made by stacking layer on layer. Let's say you have a part that is 20mm in the z axis (height) and you wish to print it at .05 layer height resolution. Theoretically, your 20mm part is sliced into 400 layers. The process goes: Model part in modeling software or download files already prepared. Import in to slicing program. Here you can add supports, scale, copy and mirror, etc. Most are very automated but have very customizable settings which can get you into trouble if you don't understand what the settings do and how they affect other settings. Send to printer Filament printing works pretty much like a plotter plotting around drawing the part layer by layer. Resin printers cure the entire layer at one time by exposing one slice at a time. Where the resin printer has advantage in my opinion is that it does not matter how many copies of your 20mm part you have, as long as they fit the print bed you simply have 400 layers so the print time remains the same. Whether you have 1 part or 5, if your layer cure time is 6 seconds your print takes 2400 seconds, or 40 minutes. A filament printer on the other hand draws each layer of each part one at a time until the whole layer is done. Let's say it takes 10 seconds to draw each layer of each part. Using the same layer height .05 (which some filament printers would struggle with) it would take 4000 seconds, or 67 minutes to print a single part. If you were to add 4 duplicates to the print bed, you can multiply the print time by a factor of 5, and arrive at 335 minutes, or 5.5 hours.

Thanks but I can only claim credit for the modeling of the quilting stuff and the Panther muzzle brake. The rest was simply downloaded and printed with very little modification. something-A1/U4? Nice work BTW...

And what do you tend to print? 3D Modeling skills? I have a Creality CR-10S that is heavily modded. Best mod by far, BLTouch. This is a filament printer and will print pretty nice at .05 layer height but takes about 15 years to print anything of reasonable size and even at that resolution small details are a thing of fantasy. Best for printing larger items (.3 layer height) that need a decent amount of strength but not parts that need a pretty finish (unless you intend to prime and sand). I also brought home a Creality LD-002R 2 weeks ago. Super nice prints at .05 layer height but comes with all the hazards and toxicity that come with resin. I have printed several Death Korps figures, a couple chess pieces, some bees for the wife and a Panzerhund which I scaled down by 50% and it's still huge. There have been a few failed prints also. I think I'm mostly past the curve on the resin printer now. Post production. clean up and disposal are a flippin' nightmare. If it was not for water washable resin, I would have put it up for sale already. My 3D modeling skills thus far are limited to fairly simple models. Here's some stuff I've done on both printers. I'll post better pics of some of the more interesting stuff but here's a short description of what's in this pic. Red shapes: quilt cutting templates for the boss. CR-10S. .3 resolution. Blue frame: Frame for 25th scale heavy wrecker project. CR-10S .2 resolution. Blue muzzle: Muzzle brake for 1:16 Panther CR-10S, .05 resolution. Red Barrel: 1:35 scale barrel. .12 resolution. 60mm DKOK Commissar: LD-002R .05 resolution. 28mm DKOK troopers: LD-002R .05 resolution. Unknown scale Wolfenstein Panzerhund. LD-002R .05 resolution. Skull Chess Pieces: LD-002R .05 resolution. Panzerhund done on resin rig. Has a couple of newb errors but the surface is very respectable as is the detail. I will have to reprint a couple parts. When resin printing it is imperative to be absolutely sure there is no residual resin left on the print when you cure it. That's a 1:16 scale Panther G in the background. I suspect it was 1:16 scale before I reduced it by 50% which would bring it in around 1:32 (54mm). The 60mm Commissar looks just a tad big next to it. Commissar upscaled from 28mm to 60mm and printed on the resin rig. DKOK 28mm Troopers printed on resin rig in black resin and dry brushed a bit to show detail. Chess pieces printed on resin rig. The bumps are where the supports were located during printing. I have found that they are easier to remove prior to curing but tend to leave a divot in the model. I cured it this way to determine what's less work, fixing the divot or knocking down the zit. I will say that they are very tender prior to curing. It's very easy to dig into the surface and even break fine parts off the model. 35th scale barrel printed on filament rig at.12 and muzzle brake printed at .05. I have printed quite a bit more stuff on the filament printer but most of it don't belong here. Printer mods, T-rex skeletons, more sewing stuff for the Boss, etc.

Yes and yes. Just got a LD-002R to do the stuff my modded CR-10S cant handle.

HAHA, yeah, another of my brilliant ideas. The plan is to do a giant wrecker with three maybe four drive axle wrecker using 3D printed parts. Maybe even twin steer. It's kinda stalled out like most of my other projects.

Purple Power Castrol Super Clean Can't remember which worked better but both work pretty well. I put submerged my Mack R series parts in a small tote and left them for a few days..........OK, forgot them for a few days. Rinsed in warm water with and tooth brush. If there is any yellow film (clearcoat) left on the parts, repeat the cycle. The clear goes on before they chrome the parts to smooth the chrome but sacrifices underlying detail. Here's some stripped parts.

I've used automotive primer on several PLA and PETG printed parts then over-painted with a variety of lacquers and acrylics.

Hope it turns up at Hobby Lobby. I finally got a ROG issue about 4 months back.

Don't forget Modelmania in Houston, April 25..........................

Have you heard of Hades? About 10 degrees cooler...................... Seriously though, Mid to high 90s pretty much guaranteed. Might get lucky and witness triple digits.

It affects my credit card as a normal transaction and I do get 6 months free interest from paypal when the criteria is met. I can't recall buying something from China negating the free interest for purchase over 100.00 Can't answer the international fees question.