DocRob

I stenciled a Corsair and an Arado 234 with masks. The Arado was the worst, having some stencils in three different colors. Some years ago, I completely stenciled a 1/48 Kai Phantom and boy, this was exhausting. Some of the fuselage stencils were grouped though and the quality of the decals was so good, no silvering or carrier film showed. Cheers Rob

I don´t know how you do it, but your project is looking bright and clean and used and worn at the same time, simply amazing. It´s not that often, that a modeler has a signature style of his own to show, congratulations. Cheers Rob

A truly painful process with the stenciling Chris, but wait until 1ManArmy comes out with stencil masks for the big F4, applying these is true tormenting fun . Cheers Rob

Muchas gracias amigos, the carbon decals are really nice to work with. At first application, you think, they will never snuggle around the curved shapes, but with a dose of heat and softener, they miraculously do. @BlrwestSiR: I just saw, that you even cleaned your bench, what better time to start . Cheers Rob

Found this today and was wondering . Cheers Rob

I added the front suspension and the carbon side air intakes with some electronic device detail, but decided against wiring them. The engine and car bottom are not finally attached to the monocoque. For the next steps, I prepared the air intakes for the brakes, which needed to be decaled with carbon pattern decals. When you apply the decals to the sides of the intakes, they are slightly oversized, but with some doses of Mr. Mark softer and hot air from the hairdryer, the start to contour around the edges and the mid section can be applied the same way. Time consuming, but it works and the carbon decals behave good and are not to brittle. The carbon thread pattern looks absolutely beautiful in black and anthracite. I also finished the brake calipers with Titanium gold, some black panel line wash and finally the tiny Brembo markings. Cheers Rob

Thank you both, I hope to have it off the bench soon, but it´s somehow hard to establish a good workflow with the kit. Carl, I remember you telling about the MP 4/6. It was 1/12 scale, right. Should be a nice project. Cheers Rob

I can´t tell you Carl, but I saw some nice builds out of the Fujimi kit. It seems to be one of the better Fujimi kits and relatively accurate. Cheers Rob

Quality stuff as always Peter, The cockpit and interior looks fantastic with all the eye pleasing detail. I hope this will be a fun and motivating project for you. Cheers Rob

Today a true classic landed on my doorstep. Fujimi´s Ferrari 250 GTO. It´s the limited edition with turned aluminum rims and PE spokes and a set of PE and metal parts for further detailing. I also got a huge array of colors for different car projects from Zero Paint and Number Five paints. These are for my different Ferraris and as well for my Williams FW 16. I hope the blue fits the Cartograph decals. As I primed some McLaren parts, I used the chance and sprayed some dummy parts in Williams blue, to show if it matches. Lastly, I got a Tamiya painting stand, which will be helpful with car bodies. Cheers Rob

Thank you Maru, I have lots of photos from different museums and like to share them, when questions arise, like with the 262. I cannot tell you about the meaning of the red circle on the nacelles. It´s present on my Revell decal sheet as well and also the HGW replacements. I found it on some historic pics of -B types too. Cheers Rob

Some builds are like this and it´s not only a kits fault, but some projects lack the groove from the beginning. Cheers Rob

After a long pause and the Crocker motorcycle near finished, I thought, I could finish a started build and continue with the McLaren. This project fought me from the beginning and in deep contrast with the Crocker, it continues to do so, but I want to have the kit off the bench or bin it. I finished the cockpit, using many parts from a Studio 27 detail set. The switchbox and it´s steering mechanism came out good enough, but was extremely fiddly. The steering wheel was even worse and I used the kit part, which was not too shabby. The seat belts are completely wrong and should be black, but the Studio 27 belts tested my patience too much and I used a Tamiya set. These look a bit toyish and were so shiny, that I flat coated the seat assembly. Well if you don´t look to close, it might work . Cheers Rob

Great progress on a truly demanding build. Scott, I can only marvel about your patience. Cheers Rob

Good to see the Furies back at the bench. Landing gear looks good and will be strong enough for the beast. Cheers Rob

Nice car, PW. I owned one myself some years ago. Like others said, these are indestructible. Best, if the sunroof is still working. You know, there is a decent kit of the Benz, made by Diopark out there. I built one, many moons ago. Cheers Rob

Thank you Kevin, but she´s not for sale. We are talking about the most expensive motorbike in the world . Cheers Rob

Thank you Peter, not showing the seat too closely was on purpose, because I touched it with a dot of CA on my finger, when I added the last rivet and have a paint lift there. I will redo the leather finish, when the spare parts arrive, which are on their way from Japan, thanks to MFH. I even thought about applying real leather to the seat, but the contour would have made it very difficult. Cheers Rob

Looking great with all those stencils, Chris. Somehow you seem to have some serious bad mojo with clear parts right now. I couldn´t really see the scratch on the photo and might let it be there, If I were you. Cheers Rob

Looking good, Carl, the Canards alter the whole appearance of the bird. Cheers Rob

I have no idea about the Vallejo metal colors, but the Tamiya lacquer colors can be brush painted. Some colors of the LP range cover better than others, but the blacks are especially good and my go to specially for car modeling. Gloss black is really high shine, mixed with about two thirds of leveling thinner and a pefect base for chrome or polished aluminum. I tried this with Alclad and AK`s Extreme Metals. The semi matte black is perfect for non shining car parts, there is nothing better out there. Cheers Rob

Thank you Paul, I hope for the best. It´s my first contact with MFH, other than purchasing kits. Cheers Rob

Today, I attached the foot rest, and finished the instrument panel, which is a little kit in itself. The main instrument consist from different PE layers, which receive decals then, to add some depth to it, nice touch, MFH. As the fuel tank is polished, I decided to only brush finish the IP for a bit of contrast. There are also tiny PE hands for the main instrument, but I´m not sure, if I use them. Then, I airbrushed the saddle with semi matte black, after some relatively less thinned black Mr. Surfacer 1000, to achieve a tiny bit grainy finish to simulate the leather. Afterwards, I inserted tiny rivets around the saddle, which was extremely tedious. With the last rivet, I smeared a tiny dot of CA glue onto the saddle and will have to finish it again. Maybe, I will use the hairspray method for this, airbrushing flat black on top and then rub partly away, for a slight worn finish. The seat is not finally attached in the pics. I hope, MFH reacts soon and I can purchase the missing parts. Other than that, the Crocker is near ready, but I hope the bad mojo of the last days doesn´t carry over to the next built, as it already spoilt this builds end. Cheers Rob

Thank you Carl and Peter, it´s indeed annoying. I´m nearly done with the kit and this is some kind of a sour ending, but totally my fault. I sent an email to MFH and hope they will answer soon. Cheers Rob

looking very good, the decals crept beautifully into the panel lines, the shape and quality issues with the canopy are strange though. Cheers Rob