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Everything posted by DocRob

  1. Would have been a shame. All in all a very nice result Mark. I like the camo scheme, but honestly prefer single seater Mirages, as the second seat looks a bit like added in a field workshop later. Cheers Rob
  2. Nice camo Gaz, I like it. Never made a free hand camo myself, a thing to keep in mind for one of my next builds. Can't wait to see the little rodent weathered. Cheers Rob
  3. Nice detail work on the Henschel. She will be a stunner. Cheers Rob
  4. Not sure, if I ever saw the Ewok parts in Star Wars. I saw only the first movie in cinema, when it came out. Where there any of the furry menaces in that one? In my dio, the AT-ST will be Russian owned and stomping on a Sd.Kfz. 251-D in winter camo. Cheers Rob
  5. I build a real steam engine, when I was 16, maybe 17 in the early eighties, therefore no pics as I've left the engine stored back in Berlin, when I left. I started an apprenticeship as a light engineer then, in the workshop of a research institute. We, the pupil and the engineers, developed a steam machine together as a model for basic engineering training for us and later sold the concept. The idea was to use all the basic and advanced skills you achieve, to build a steam machine, each. After the final grading, you were allowed to use the paintbooth and galvanic to improve the looks of the machine, if desired. Mine was completely black based and chrome and nickel parts, the only one, not looking like a parrot. The final verdict about the machine was, how much pressure it needed to start to run, the lesser the better. Later we had a similar project, constructing a tiny CNC milling machine from scratch (mind, we are talking 1982 here, were some of our CNC machines still received punctured paper tape), including a PC as a steering unit. Yeah, I had a very thorough education as a light engineer, even complaining when there were more than four equal screws to shorten . Cheers Rob
  6. May you should take a look at the NAIM stuff. It's available through Sockelshop. One example: Front 46 No. MAIM35518 - Schwabenland Army - Hammerschlag #2 frühe Ausf. - Front46 / 1:35 _ Figuren (dersockelshop.de) Some interesting stuff here too, Industria Mechanik, I have some of their resin kits, but don't like the Mechas that much, but these steam punk submarines... Mecha - Industria Mechanika Shop Cheers Rob
  7. Nice work Gus, which doesn't apply to the quality of the pics . Camo looks great on that interesting tank and the weathering fits like a glove. Cheers Rob
  8. Onto the bench and off in one day as the oils on my PZL dry for a while. This is part one of a strange new project, including a little dio and another kit. The Bandai AT-ST is easy to build and very detailed. There are no distortions in the plastic and I glued only some tiny parts, the rest is only snapped together and will enable to paint the kit better. There is no PE or resin included, but the main guns are bored hollow . Chewbacca will be removed and another pilot will be added later. No Ewoks were harmed through the build . Cheers Rob
  9. Sweet Phil, the cockpit is looking great and it's good to see a non PE-pit with hand painted details. Seat cushions and seat belts are also very nice. Cheers Rob
  10. Great tutorial and very nice result. The Tiger head and tail looks absolutely phenomenal. Cheers Rob
  11. Har, all the best to you my friend. Cheers Rob
  12. Cool, one of my most often non-buys, or almost buys, the ED 209, I mean. The 240z is attractive too. I had the Horizon kit, Carl mentioned and it was not great detail wise and being a bit on the delicate side with the vinyl pars. I definitely prefer vinyl on my turntables. Please do a WIP of the ED-209. Cheers Rob
  13. Since I can't source Tamiya's rattle can primer anymore, which was my go-to primer for some years, directly from the can, I switched to Mr. Surfacer 1200, thinned with Levelling thinner, with the ratio 2,5 parts thinner and 1 part primer, setting the AB to 1 bar. Works perfect with supersmooth results. I used it for some builds now, using acrylics, lacquers and oils on to it without any issues. I masked over it and had no lifts at all. I clean all my kits with alcohol, before I prime. I have a jar of Tamiya primer as well, but haven't tried it, as I like to have good working constants in my sometimes adventurous experiments with colors and the way to applicate them. Cheers Rob
  14. Thanks Harv I'm glad you like it, thank you. Maybe my 1/16 Chinese Tankette will be next with an oil paint job. I remember yours and liked it a lot. Thanks Gaz, the actual color tends a little more to the brown side and looks ok to me. If I don't like it after varnishing, I may put a filter on, let's see. Also thank you for trying to force me into a dio build . No way with this one, where I haven't even a pilot figure. Cheers Rob
  15. I visited their website, just to know if I'm stupid or not. 1ManArmy says, that the sets include basic markings, stencils and group numbers. There is no placement manual to be seen or explained which airplanes or schemes are covered in the sets. I think, 1ManArmy should recruit a second man for marketing and maybe better product shots on their site. I don't buy high priced products, when I'm not sure what I get . Cheers Rob
  16. Thanks for showing Phil. I saw these for a month or so, but thought the pricing ridiculous, for what I thought, I get in these sets. The package claims to only include the stenciling, but the Modelling News review shows, that national insignia are also covered in the sets, which sounds way more interesting. Cheers Rob
  17. Thanks Peter, I'm shooting JPEG, I generally hate post processing pictures, but may have to go that route more frequent in the future. My dogma in photography is, I make the the picture, the moment I capture it and that's it. It's the old analog thinking (of course there was post processing too), but digital possibilities has changed the game. Nearly everything is possible with post processing, except, taking the right picture at the right moment, with the good focal angle, with the actual metering. No picture is objective, but capturing them in one moment, while pressing the trigger makes them authentic. You might argue against my thinking, pointing out, JPEG algorithms are post processing itself and you are right, but that's the Compromise I found for myself, after working with analogue material seemed no more appropriate. For the pictures above, I used the correct custom WB-setting for the LED lighting, which is given. The hue, a slightly greenish tint, is caused by the micro 4/3 chip on my Lumix camera, it's not true to real colors. I know, I can correct the hue in the camera, but I don't want to, as it's only visible under some extreme conditions, macroing models unfortunately, is one of them. It doesn't miss by a lot, but it's distinctive, I can tell you, as I work with that color for days now . When using the Lumix, I try to get all the variables right, which I'm not doing with my Iphone. I use the Pro Cam App for the phone, which allows to adjust many parameters. With that, I use a different approach. I adjust the pic on the screen as long, till it looks right. Impossible with the Iphone, but close enough for most purposes. Cheers Rob
  18. Great work with the engine wiring. The steering arm looks precious with it's complicated geometry, you seem to have a very good spatial sense. Cheers Rob
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