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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    Good point Peter, when I painted my Ford GT Mk. II, I had rubbed trough the paint easily, using the Tamiya polishing compounds. I had to respray the body, a thing I really hate to do. Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    A member on MSW dug these photos up. Especially the color pic showing a big difference in shininess between the blue paint and canopy, indicating a not very glossy paintjob. Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    Thank you Gary, I thought about your Focke racer, while doing mine. I will keep your ideas about buffing compounds in mind for when time comes. For the Caudron, I looked at pictures and found the paintjob shouldn't be too shiny. I don't think, it was polished to the max, but these photos might have been retouched, who knows. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    Thank you Peter, the green one is still in the shopping cart and it will not race to my place . I pondered for a while, because it's 1/72, but I guess, it's about the same size like the Caudron. I don't have a display shelf, it's more of a storage and these racers don't eat up a lot of space. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    Nope Hubert, this one - Gee Bee R6H QED 1/72 scale Plastic Passion SBS-PP04 | SBS Model - online shop, models, armor accessories Cheers Rob
  6. DocRob
    I couldn't resist, as racers seem to let me go fast . Decals went on beautifully and luckily there are only four of them. I glued in the propeller blades and went through the painful task of denting all the chrome cowling holes with a toothpick. I will need some finishing touches, but then the beautiful Caudron is done. The kit was near perfect and an absolut fun to build. This will not be my last racing plane, there is another green one in the pipeline. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    I finally added the undercarriage, which is a mix out of brass casted wheel struts, resin struts and three PE pars per side plus the resin wheel of course. Assembling the struts was easy, but the photoetched parts were a bit difficult to position, though the manufacturer etched some marks, where the gluing points are, luckily. Tomorrow I will add the prop blades and decals and the blue beauty will be eye candy in my display shelf. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    There is a review of the 1/48 incarnation of the Seahawk in the Modelling News, interesting and include some nice pics. The Modelling News: Review: 1/48th scale Curtiss SC-1 Seahawk from Halberd Models Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    All the best and speedy recovery Bill. I don't understand all the specifics you had to go through, but I had my share of pain in the back some years ago, albeit not with the legs being effected. I trained a lot over the last year to strengthen my core, where especially surfing, swimming, yoga and dedicated training helped a lot as well as stopping to play baseball. Now, I'm more or less pain free in the back, a status, I would have thought impossible to achieve some years ago. Why am I telling this, it's to show, there is a perspective often, to acquire new life quality after the valley of pain. If I have health issues, I tend to think of the ones which went by and are forgotten now and this makes it easier to deal with. Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    You spotted it, Sherlock . The color on the canopy is a shade darker than the rest, hence the different primer used. Light grey for the fuselage and gloss black for the canopy, because I needed the black for the aft framing. The Royal Blue was very translucent, which seem often to happen with gloss blue colors. I figured the same with Tamiya's LP gloss blue, which behaved similar and didn't have the same good opacity like the other LP colors. The reasons, why I used Bare Metal foil were, I wanted to try it and the process looked more straightforward to me. For painting Polished Aluminum, I'd needed some gloss black priming, then chrome paint, then masking with cutting the mask on the model, which is harder to do, because the very fine panel line is hard to detect under Kabuki. Also, I don't like to mask over high shine metal painted surfaces, if I can avoid it, which would have been needed for the following gloss blue paintjob. The metal foil was applied direct onto the gloss blue and then cut in the then visible panel line. Even then , I needed two attempts. For the canopy framing, I needed some attempts on my cutting template and lifting the foil, without ripping it to pieces. Foil of 0,5mm width doesn't have a lot of stability. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    The SU facing the Tiger's. More cats than models on your bench lately, Carl and that's hard to believe . Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    The sparse IP was added to the cockpit part. It's made from a PE board over acetate film dials and I glued them with Pledge, to risk no fogging and have shiny 'glass' dials. The canopy was a bit adventurous, masked with the supplied and well fitting Kabuki masks and Kabuki tape from the inside, then sprayed gloss black for the rear framing. These parts got over masked after drying and the rest of the canopy was airbrushed with the blue fuselage color. Photos show, that the rear vertical spars were metal colored and to replicate this, I applied 0,5mm strips of Bare Metal Foil onto the frames. Lastly, I painted the exhausts silver, but that will be retouched with a metallic black on top, that only a silver base will show. The canopy is only loosely fitted on the pics. Well, I think it starts to look fast now. Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    The blue color settled nicely, while drying overnight. The sheen has been a little less, but I like the look scale wise. There is a slightly lighter panel accentuation visible, due to the very transparent character of the blue color. I like the effect and it spares me another panel line wash or similar, as I often found, lighter panel borders appear more real than dark ones. The next bit was the nerve straining task of foiling the cowling with Bare Metal Foil. I made a test on the unpainted model, which was not too bad, but lacked perfection. The first try on the painted plane was not satisfactory, it seems, i struggle with keeping a straight line with the scalpel, to cut the borders inside the fine panel lines. I removed this attempt and nervously applied a new foil. It came out not perfect, but will have to do. Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    You could be right about that, the post processing may has left a bit too much contrast and too vivid colors. As a non post processor, I haven't thought about it . Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    Thank you Peter, I will have a look next thing and hope for the best. Than it's about not ruining the paintjob with the next delicate steps. Cheers Rob
  16. DocRob
    Peter, I didn't want to offend you and I'm hardly an expert on Skyraider cockpits, but I can't explain it better. Sure, there's lots of detail printed on, but I browsed trough a lot of real cockpit pics and it doesn't look right to my eye. Maybe it's the glossiness, or maybe it's only my vision. I normally absolutely adore your detailed and colorful rendition of cockpits and this will look good in the fuselage. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    On with the Caudron. After almost two weeks my color order arrived and I got back in the tracks. I masked the canopy with the supplied Kabuki masks, which fittet, who wonders, perfectly. The airframe was primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500, after a rub with an alcohol soaked cloth. There was no place to hold the plane while spraying, so I inserted a 1mm brass rod into a pre drilled hole in the air duct. My pin vise worked as a handle than. Then it was time for the blue. After lots of considerations, I went with a dark gloss blue, namely Tamiya X-3 Royal blue. The picture was taken immediately after spraying and I hope the gloss will remain. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Thank you Scott, that was my thinking too, but the build changed my approach a bit. If you want to build something, just do it. Mostly the considerations, thoughts and fears upfront don't materialize, but others appear during the build. But then you're at it and handle the difficulties one by one. Cheers Rob
  19. DocRob
    Thank you PW, we started some serious ship modeling here lately with your Zerstörer along. It's time to do a water dio, but not for USS Arizona. Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    Nice big bird Kevin, what camo did you chose? Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    But there is rigging, Kevin, it's even visible with the dark backdrop. The main lines were applied as well as the flag lines. I just couldn't bring me to do a complete rigging job. Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    Finally a McLaren Honda MP4/6 showed up on my doorstep . Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    Playing around with this one. Could be my next project. The DO-335 from Hon Kong Model. Easiest way to depict a twin engine fighter , but it's huge. Some clever engineering was incorporated along with very detailed plastic surfaces. The fit of the main parts looks good, the engine cowlings (front and side) can't be proper test fit, because they have hinges casted on, which need to be cut away for a closed bird. I'm not finally decided, I might open one side and leave the other closed. Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    Thank you Kevin, that's a good backdrop, to hide my meager rigging skills, isn't it? Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    Nice progress Peter and if the gaps are not wider than with Carl's build, operational wings would be a great option. I have to admit, I was not overly impressed by the cockpit, which somehow looked a bit flat to my eye, but that is maybe how the real thing looked. The foot pedals seem to be too far away from the pilot seat to look right, but given the small canopy bubble, that all will disappear in that huge fuselage. In 2014, I took some snaps on deck of USS Midway in San Diego, which may be interesting for your build. You can see, it was necessary to use a super wide angled lens, as there was not much space on deck and some restricted areas. Cheers Rob
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