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DocRob

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Everything posted by DocRob

  1. The sparse IP was added to the cockpit part. It's made from a PE board over acetate film dials and I glued them with Pledge, to risk no fogging and have shiny 'glass' dials. The canopy was a bit adventurous, masked with the supplied and well fitting Kabuki masks and Kabuki tape from the inside, then sprayed gloss black for the rear framing. These parts got over masked after drying and the rest of the canopy was airbrushed with the blue fuselage color. Photos show, that the rear vertical spars were metal colored and to replicate this, I applied 0,5mm strips of Bare Metal Foil onto the frames. Lastly, I painted the exhausts silver, but that will be retouched with a metallic black on top, that only a silver base will show. The canopy is only loosely fitted on the pics. Well, I think it starts to look fast now. Cheers Rob
  2. The blue color settled nicely, while drying overnight. The sheen has been a little less, but I like the look scale wise. There is a slightly lighter panel accentuation visible, due to the very transparent character of the blue color. I like the effect and it spares me another panel line wash or similar, as I often found, lighter panel borders appear more real than dark ones. The next bit was the nerve straining task of foiling the cowling with Bare Metal Foil. I made a test on the unpainted model, which was not too bad, but lacked perfection. The first try on the painted plane was not satisfactory, it seems, i struggle with keeping a straight line with the scalpel, to cut the borders inside the fine panel lines. I removed this attempt and nervously applied a new foil. It came out not perfect, but will have to do. Cheers Rob
  3. You could be right about that, the post processing may has left a bit too much contrast and too vivid colors. As a non post processor, I haven't thought about it . Cheers Rob
  4. Thank you Peter, I will have a look next thing and hope for the best. Than it's about not ruining the paintjob with the next delicate steps. Cheers Rob
  5. Peter, I didn't want to offend you and I'm hardly an expert on Skyraider cockpits, but I can't explain it better. Sure, there's lots of detail printed on, but I browsed trough a lot of real cockpit pics and it doesn't look right to my eye. Maybe it's the glossiness, or maybe it's only my vision. I normally absolutely adore your detailed and colorful rendition of cockpits and this will look good in the fuselage. Cheers Rob
  6. On with the Caudron. After almost two weeks my color order arrived and I got back in the tracks. I masked the canopy with the supplied Kabuki masks, which fittet, who wonders, perfectly. The airframe was primed with Mr. Surfacer 1500, after a rub with an alcohol soaked cloth. There was no place to hold the plane while spraying, so I inserted a 1mm brass rod into a pre drilled hole in the air duct. My pin vise worked as a handle than. Then it was time for the blue. After lots of considerations, I went with a dark gloss blue, namely Tamiya X-3 Royal blue. The picture was taken immediately after spraying and I hope the gloss will remain. Cheers Rob
  7. Thank you Scott, that was my thinking too, but the build changed my approach a bit. If you want to build something, just do it. Mostly the considerations, thoughts and fears upfront don't materialize, but others appear during the build. But then you're at it and handle the difficulties one by one. Cheers Rob
  8. Thank you PW, we started some serious ship modeling here lately with your Zerstörer along. It's time to do a water dio, but not for USS Arizona. Cheers Rob
  9. Nice big bird Kevin, what camo did you chose? Cheers Rob
  10. But there is rigging, Kevin, it's even visible with the dark backdrop. The main lines were applied as well as the flag lines. I just couldn't bring me to do a complete rigging job. Cheers Rob
  11. Finally a McLaren Honda MP4/6 showed up on my doorstep . Cheers Rob
  12. Playing around with this one. Could be my next project. The DO-335 from Hon Kong Model. Easiest way to depict a twin engine fighter , but it's huge. Some clever engineering was incorporated along with very detailed plastic surfaces. The fit of the main parts looks good, the engine cowlings (front and side) can't be proper test fit, because they have hinges casted on, which need to be cut away for a closed bird. I'm not finally decided, I might open one side and leave the other closed. Cheers Rob
  13. Thank you Kevin, that's a good backdrop, to hide my meager rigging skills, isn't it? Cheers Rob
  14. Nice progress Peter and if the gaps are not wider than with Carl's build, operational wings would be a great option. I have to admit, I was not overly impressed by the cockpit, which somehow looked a bit flat to my eye, but that is maybe how the real thing looked. The foot pedals seem to be too far away from the pilot seat to look right, but given the small canopy bubble, that all will disappear in that huge fuselage. In 2014, I took some snaps on deck of USS Midway in San Diego, which may be interesting for your build. You can see, it was necessary to use a super wide angled lens, as there was not much space on deck and some restricted areas. Cheers Rob
  15. I call my USS Arizona build finished with the lates iteration of detail work. In all it was a pleasurable building experience, where I learnt a lot about the ship itself and equally about building it with all the extras. I still have to build a fitting base for the ship. Initially I planned on a water dio, but chickened out, because I wanted to concentrate on the build itself. That will be a to do for a upcoming project. Cheers Rob
  16. Thank you Carl , I exaggerated a bit, I built a Revell Admiral Hipper as a teenager, brush painted and glue soiled, but that hardly prepared me for the USS Arizona. The color scheme is indeed interesting and make the ship look different from the typical grey battleships. The USS Arizona sported it only for a very short time. The red topped turrets were for air identification, not a good idea in times of war. All the American battleships of this time were coded red, white and blue for recognition. Cheers Rob
  17. Thank you Gary and Hubert, the sheer amount of tiny PE was daunting, but the preparation of the remaining terrible plastic was more challenging at times. The PE, Eduard provided was very well designed at fitted near perfectly, which helped a lot. Like Gary, I don't see a big difference with the detail work needed for a larger scale vessel with 1/200 scale. There will be only more details to replicate, but a huge battleship in 1/200 will be an imposing sight. I have the Revell Flower Class Corvette in 1/144 in stash and whenever the dedicated Pontos set shows up, I will give it a try. Sadly there are no fitting British sailors out there, after North Star closed business. Cheers Rob
  18. I call the USS Arizona project done. I did a lot of little things over the last days, like a simplified rigging, added flagpoles, painted lots of details, added the anchors, I had forgotten before and took some final pictures. It was a demanding but also satisfying project, where I learned a lot of new stuff, as it was my first small scale ship build. The most important lesson was, not to limit myself with upfront fear of the lots of PE and small detail stuff. Finally, I also learned something new about photographing, focus stacking, which my camera is able to do in house. It means, that a lengthy object, which normally would have out of focus areas can be photographed without these areas. It takes some pictures of different focus points in one file, which later are merged in the camera to generate a completely focused image, cool stuff. Cheers Rob
  19. You may ask in our co-forum ModelShipWorld, lots of knowledgeful members there. Cheers Rob
  20. Hi Phil, like you, I bought the Mossie kit and the AM a long time ago. I'd say, the kit doesn't really need a lot of AM, but hey, aren't we all a bit strange with that. I test glued the wheels, ingenious Tamiya design and found them good enough, to not exchange them. The seat belts are a must for me and for the front office I have the Eduard set. With my recent Tamiya Corsair built, I decided against a previously bought Yahu IP, because it was wrong, with yellow dials, which should have been white and tweaked the kit supplied one. I may go the same route here, If the Eduard set isn't satisfactory. I haven't decided on the plane, so maybe add the Aires rockets. The Brassin stuff is for extra detailing, but I think your choice of Master barrels will do as well. I will use masks for the markings and try the wet transfers for stenciling, but with my shaky history with HGW's wet transfers, I might opt for 1ManArmy masks for the job. Cheers Rob
  21. Eduard has some 1/350 signal flags in PE or printed decal, but nothing German WWI. I'm sure about coding, even in Napoleonic times flag communication was coded with false signals blended in and changing codes. To detect right or wrong signals, sometimes canons were fired or different colored flares were used, indicating which is which. Cheers Rob
  22. Don't you think, these signals were coded, Gary? Cheers Rob
  23. Bring it on Phil, I really like to see your Mosquito developing. I have one in stash and was pondering, if I start it soon. I have a completely different set of AM for mine though. Cheers Rob
  24. Sorry Gary, I've no idea about these flag signals, other than knowing about their existence. Dr. Andreas Herzfeld seems to be an expert and he has written a book about the subject, which is available at big A Germany. It is called 'Die Signalflaggen und Signalbücher deutscher Kriegs- und Handelsmarinen seit 1815'. There are some graphics shown on his homepage, as well as the table of contents of the book, obviously in German. The second graph might be interesting for you. Deutsche Signalflaggen (dr-herzfeld.de) Cheers Rob
  25. Thanks Peter, I even consider adding one more. I have been tempted by the WNW Felixstowe, since it appeared on the market. Maybe it's the last chance, to buy such a crazy object for a decent price. It's huge, but I may build her with retractable wings or even without wings in a maintenance / construction scenario. Cheers Rob
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