Peterpools

Rob Excellent idea. Since I’m almost done preparing the three additional test samples, now just needing the clear Gloss top Coat applied this morning: MRP Gray Primer & MRP # 299 Insignia Red MRP Gray Primer & Mr Color # 72 Intermediate Blue MRP Gray Primer & Hataka C065 Olive Drab I’ll apply the decals on each one with one sample only having the decals applied with Micro Set and the other two with both Micro Set and Sol. I’m also now going to prepare an additional NMF test panel and apply a set of decals with only Micro Set as well. This should cover all the bases and a lot bigger test project then I originally thought. Keep ‘em comin Peter

John That would be an awesome choice and the parts do fit ... Looking forward to the Skyraider. Keep 'em comin Peter

John The absolute definition of a bad fit ... horrendous at best. Any thoughts now as to your next project? Keep 'em comin Peter

Rob I'm not giving up just yet and re-shot three more small wing panels with Hataka, MRP & Mr Color for one more series of test. Then I'll have all the info and and results for us to share. I have also found out that no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't peel off the clear film from any of the decals on any of the NMF panels and it's not necessary as you can't see the decal film at all. I never over spray my NMF after decaling with any clear coats, so I will post images of the panels as they are. I thought I would break the unwritten rule and try and lift the clear film from the decals on the painted panels, with good old plain masking tape, not Tamiya tape as it isn't sticky enough. The film did break loose using regular hardware store masking tape and I could peel the carrier film off with no effect on the painted surfaces. Thusly the reason for the three more painted panels, to redo this test using the masking tape on three different paints. Film at eleven. Keep 'em comin Peter

Stop the press❗ After allowing the decals to dry for 3 hours, I tried removing the clear decal film from the test wing that was painted with Hataka lacquer and the results were not good at best. Peeling the clear film off is frustrating and the term 'time consuming' doesn't even come close. The more I tried picking at the clear film, I not only removed the majority of the clear film but some the the ink decal and destroyed the painted wing in that area, not only scratching the paint but took chunks of it out as well. I even tried rubbing Tamiya Tape over the clear film and then peeling it up and a total no go. So right now, my finding ob the painted wing, it's a no go. Not worth the time or effort. I'm now going to test the next wing panel, leaving the carrier film alone, apply clear gloss and see what happens. And I haven't even touched the AK and Alclad panels yet. Keep 'em comin Peter

Harv I was actually thinking the decals would be just so so and a let down and so far, holy cow, they are performing magnificently. Keep 'em comin Peter

Martin Yikes - awesome photographs. Keep 'em comin Peter

UPDATE 11/14/21: TEST RESLTS SO FAR: No pics yet but I've applied the new Eduard decals to six different wing panels, four with NMF's, one with Hataka Olive Drab and one with Mig Interior gree - both clear coated with Hataka Clear Gloss (lacquer). next update will be the results with images. Results so far: OMG, the new Eduard decals are as thin as Cartograf, lay down magnificently and actually seem to straighten themselves out when as I applied them and didn't get a few perfectly straight, seemed to nearly jump into a straight line as I worked them. Initial first impressions: Applied with the 'classical method" of Micro Set and Sol, used as per the Micro instructions and with 'soft' water, they are the equal to Cartagraf! Yes, the carrier film is on. I'm going to let the decals dry for at least six plus hours and then tonight or tomorrow, remove the carrier film. Keep 'em comin Peter

Phil Sure hope there is enough popcorn as I’ll be on front and center the entire way as well 🍿 Keep ‘em comin Peter

Phil Looking so good and off to the Paint shop for primer and paint - some mighty nice work. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Fantastic! Awesome scratch building and your NMF for both the airframe and engine is spot on! Keep ‘em comin Peter

Gaz Still not the same as watching and learning as you go through all the figure painting steps - every time you paint figures for your builds, I follow each update very carefully and slowly the steps and tricks are creeping into my subconscious. No doubt, it will happen that I’ll take the plunge not to far down the road and attempt a figure or two with a build of my own. Much appreciated the time Out in to your updates Keep ‘em comin Peter

Kai You’re off and running🏃‍♂️ and as with most builds the front office is the first area to tackle. Very nice work on removing all the raised details in preparation for the Red Fox 3D detail set, which looks excellent - lots of prep work for sure. I’ve become a huge fan of the Quinta 3D printed cockpit sets and am very curious how they compare to the Red Fox set with their caution that they could break easily when cut with a scalpel; the Quinta sets are a flexible material and I haven’t managed to break any, even with my clumsy hands these days. Looking forward to your comparison after the front office is completed. Keep ‘em comin Peter

John I need to make sure I read every comment as I did miss your post that the Spit was completed and the final images in the Aircraft finished forum. A masters touch - fit and finish is perfect. Gorgeous work. 🏆 Keep 'em comin Peter

John I'm front and center and following intently Keep 'em coimin Peter

Nick Absolutely superb weathering on the gear and tires. Looking back over all the finishing/weathering stages so far, they all balance and compliment each other and the effect: perfect - not overdone, just operational with a lot of flight time. Keep 'em comin Peter

Carl What a relief you're OK and the test showed no abnormalities. Please follow the ER doctors advice and see a cardiologist, it's so very important. Some nice progress on the B-24 interior and the bomb load. Loads of internal real estate to paint build. Keep 'em comin Peter

Gaz Nice progress on the figures and as always, appreciate to tutorials. Keep 'em comin Peter

Rob NMF goes on this morning and late today I'll apply the decals and let dry over night and then Sunday is the big day. Much appreciated the information on the HGW P-51 Surface Panel Masks and I'm not sure they will fit the Revell kit either, as they are intended to be used with the Tamiya P-51. Something to keep in mind for down the road. Keep 'em comin Peter

Update: I've started the test and all the small wing panels are primed and half air brushed with Tamiya LP1 Gloss Black and the other two with Mr Color Gloss Black. All four panels will be allowed to dry until tomorrow and then the NMF goes on. I also decided to add to the test and did two more panels primed with MRP and then air brushed with: Hataka Olive Drab (lacquer) and Mig Interior Green (acrylic). Tomorrow I'll gloss them and let dry until Sunday. Keep 'em comin Peter

Rob Just read the How To article in the May Edition. Very informative and the recommended procedure is by using a knife to lift the edge of the carrier film and then tweezers to peel the carrier film off. The results were very different then my earlier research. I'm priming four small wings now with MRP Gray Primer, then will follow up with: MRP Light Gray Primer, then Tamiya LP1 Gloss Black and lastly AK Extreme Metal 479 Aluminum MRP Light Gray primer, then Mr Color #2 Gloss Black and lastly AK Extreme Metal #479 Aluminum MRP Light Gray Primer, then Tamiya LP1 Gloss Black Mr Color Gloss Black and lastly Alclad ALC 101 Aluminum MRP Light Gray primer, then Mr Color #2 Gloss Black and lastly Alclad ALC 101 Aluminum If all goes well and the carrier film can be removed without damaging the decals and not lifting the NMF, we should be home free. Keep 'em comin Peter

Rob Awesome - heading over now. Will be testing the decals today and tomorrow and posting my results. The more I think about it, removing the carrier film is the way to go and will completely eliminate the need for the clear gloss blend coat and now with the decal actually only being an ink, should produce the exact same effect as paint masks do. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Nick. I haven't considered the HGW stencils but will be looking into them today. Aftyer I read Robs posts and watched the attached video, I dove back into researching the new Eduard decals with removable carrier film. Just above, I reviewed my findings to date. I'm a bit chicken on using this new method for me on a NMF and of all the NMF I've done, I haven't sealed any of the finishes - I painted and decaled right on top of the NMF with obtaining the finish I was after - very metallic and no silvering. Yes, I did cutout and remove as much as the carrier I could before applying the decals but sweated out the stencils and small numbers/letters. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Gaz I do like the yellow tail markings and not sure how I would lightly weather it at this stage of the game. But after reading Robs post and the Eduard decal issues, right now, I need to find more traditional decals to use on a NMF and also to start testing down the road. Any chance you will be doing your Dragon Mustang and giving it your special touch - I surely hope so. Keep 'em comin Peter

Rob Very much appreciated your comments on the Mustang. I have been doing some basic research on the new Eduard decals and originally thought only the new decals with the thicker clear carrier film were the type in question. After reading your post, watching the video and then diving into researching out the 'Eduard Decals Caper', a lot of information is out there: both good and bad. I can understand why Eduard wanted to print their own decals as it will certainly be more cost effect, inks are applied digitally in one layer (no registration issues) and have tackled the 'clear carrier film issue' from a different angle. My decals have a printing date on them of 2021, so they are the new school variety but the carrier film seems to still be the thinner type. In my research, I found four basic methods of removing the carrier film: 1. Apply the decals as normal, let dry at least over night and then with masking tape, gently remove the carrier film. This method worked well and didn't damage the inks/decals 2 Apply the decals as normal, let dry over night and with a model knife and tweezers, peel and remove the carrier film. Some of the remaining decal had chips and damage 3. Apply the decals as normal, let dry over night, then with a Q-tip and white spirits gently rub the decal carrier film until it peels up and is removed. There seemed to be some staining of the painted wing (test mule) and further light rubbing of the stains, removed some of the decal inks - unacceptable and unusable decals. Also, I worry about using that much white spirits, as it will begin to dissolve the paint and clear gloss finished. Unacceptable results. 4. Same as above but using Tamiya X-20A instead of white mineral spirits, with the same unacceptable results. All the tests were done on painted plastic mules, none were done on a NMF test mule. I can understand why Eduard changed the method and process but I can not find any instructions on the decal application from Eduard other then apply the decals as normal and nothing about removing the clear carrier film. Right now, I'm very leery as what to do and may just scrap the decals and look for different markings on traditional decals. Just too risky to try on a NMF without a lot of testing. Keep 'em comin Peter