Peterpools

Thanks Harv Good advice for sure Keep 'em comin Peter

Harv Just took another peek and you're right. It's mostly due to the angle of the LED lamps bouncing off the panels and if you could see the actual panels in the flesh, it's nearly impossible to see. But no matter what, all the carrier film was left on all the NMF decals except the tip stencil and I'm happy with that.. Keep 'em comin Peter

THE FINAL RESULTS The test results and images are in with my final thoughts Looking at the NMF test on both AK and Alclad Aluminum, using both Micro Set and Sol as normal, I was not able to remove the carrier film with the 3M masking tape, untacked. I stayed away from a #11 blade and tweezers as the paint finished was scratched and ruined. In none of the images can you see the carrier film which is as thin as any brand and worked perfectly. On panel #5 at the tip, I added a stencil and did not use any Set or Sol, just soft water for placement. After three hours, I was able to remove the carrier film with no problems and the results are perfect. All four of the panels were painted with MRP Primer, #1 was with Mig Acrylic and the other three were lacquers: Hataka, Mt Color and HRP. All four panels received a clear gloss coat with Mr Color #46. The decals were applied as follows: 1. With Set and Sol - The carrier film was removed with 3M masking tape and a considerable time was required. I was very careful as to were I applied the masking tape and then burnished the tape. It took a number of times to lift the carrier film 2. With Set and Sol - The carrier film was removed with 3M masking tape and a considerable time. was required. I was very careful as to were I applied the masking tape and then burnished the tape. It took a number of times to lift the carrier film 3. With Set only - The carrier film was removed with the same procedure and lifted up with left effort and less times applying the masking tape. 4. No decal setting solutions were used - the carrier film lifted very quickly and with a lot less effort. In none of my tests did any of the ink/decal lift or scratch and none of the paint lifted as well. All the painted panels look perfect and what seems like carrier film, is the LED lamps reflecting off a few deep panel lines. With the NMF, the decal carrier film was not removed and still can not be seen. Only the tip stencil data had the carrier film removed and if I didn't say anything, it's impossible to tell the difference. I prepared the panels with extreme care and prep for decals, none were polished or rubbed out. The panels are all relatively flat and no extruding details. In the end, the decals with the carrier film removed, looks exactly like a painted on marking. I'm happy with my results, will have no hesitations on using the new Eduard decals, either the traditional way or removing the carrier film, depending on what the application calls for. All the images were taken with a Nikon Z7, RAW format of 47 MG and process in Adobe Lightroom. The was absolutely no manipulation of the files at all - What you see is exactly as the test results show. Keep 'em comin Peter

Brad Looking real good - cammo work is spot on Keep 'em comin Peter

NIck You achieved your goal - the wear and tear on the screws and fasteners look spot on. Keep 'em comin Peter

Super progress and really appreciate the large scale ... looking mighty good Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Kev I wasn't able to lift the carrier film off any of the NMF panels where I used both Set and Sol. The one NMF panel where I applied the decal without Set or Sol, just soft water, no issues in removing the decal film. On all the NMF panels with the decal film still in place, you could see the carrier film at all. I never seal over overcoat my NMF at any stage for fear of losing the metallic finish - being doing this since day one. Pics a bit later today. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Gaz I was a bit surprised at the test results and now am wishing Eduard starts making stencils with the carrier film on top as separate sheets for purchase. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Martin, pics a bit later today Keep 'em comin Peter

Disappointing news first and then the Positive results. I completed the tests and was able to work out a system that had consistent results. The results are in and I was able to lift the carrier film with no damage to either the decal or paint surface. The key is prep, paint, clear gloss (smooth surface for decaling) and decal procedure. I was able to apply the decal and lift off the carrier film, leaving nothing but the decal, which looks exactly as if the markings were painted on and not a hint of any film residue at the edges. Stencil data is perfect as well. My first test, I applied Eduard’s new style of decals with the top layer carrier film as normal over a glossy smooth surface using the Micro System of Set and Sol. I left the decals to dry at least three hours and tried to remove the carrier film and it wouldn’t budge. Trying to remove the clear film by using a #11 blade to lift the film and then tweezers to remove the film was a disaster. Caused chips in the decal, left patches of the film and destroyed the paint finish with scratches and chips. Way too much work and the results were terrible. The second test: Painted panels: All were primed with MRP Light Gray Lacquer Primer and then painted with: Ammo by Mig acrylic Hataka – Lacquer MR Color - Lacquer Now for the good news: IT WORKED Photos tomorrow … The key is the decal setting solutions, as they do melt/soften the carrier film, which reacts with the paint and that’s the cause of the problems. Thanks Rob your thoughts was correct. Do not use an #11 blade and tweezers. I used good old hardware store (3M) masking tape, straight from the roll to lift the carrier film. Test samples: 1. Mig paint: Set and Sol were used and it took a lot of work and time to remove the carrier film. I finally was able to remove the clear film with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface. Just takes some time to do. 2. Mr Color.: : Set and Sol were used and it took a lot of work and time to remove the carrier film. I finally was able to remove the clear film with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface. Just takes some time to do. 3. Hataka Paint: Used Set very lightly and no Sol. I was able to remove the clear film with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface much faster and much easier without Sol being used. 4. MRP Paint: No Set or Sol was used. The clear film came up very easily with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface. 5. Stencil data decal applied to the wing tip – no Set or Sol used. The carrier film lifted effortlessly. The key is not to use setting agents, as they are not necessary if the carrier film is going to be removed. Using Set lightly also worked, just not as quickly.

Phil At times I'm on the same planet. Just finished the test and I was able to workout a procedure that works. Keep 'em comin Peter

Phil Which seam and what’s your filler of choice. Could be a change of filler might do the trick. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Mark So glad you held back and kept at it rather then letting her almost fly twice. Stunning finish and a ton of work, not to mention a wonderful display presentation. From what I can see of the cockpit photograph, lighting seems even and the white balance is good. For me it’s the depth of field that is the issue as only the seat cushion is in focus, so you eye is only drawn to just the cushion. Photography is a passion for me, so I notice such things. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Kai Absolutely brilliant build with no compromises on correcting the Italeri Mirage. Wonderful work on the figures as you captured the details so well. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Gaz Brilliant build and your battles with the Revell offering over accuracy issues, taking so many months was well worth all the hard work and time. Finish and cammo work are perfect and the final display dio blend perfectly. So glad you never gave up and won the battle - awesome work. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Brad Very nicely done and my kind of finish Keep ‘em comin Peter

Rob Excellent idea. Since I’m almost done preparing the three additional test samples, now just needing the clear Gloss top Coat applied this morning: MRP Gray Primer & MRP # 299 Insignia Red MRP Gray Primer & Mr Color # 72 Intermediate Blue MRP Gray Primer & Hataka C065 Olive Drab I’ll apply the decals on each one with one sample only having the decals applied with Micro Set and the other two with both Micro Set and Sol. I’m also now going to prepare an additional NMF test panel and apply a set of decals with only Micro Set as well. This should cover all the bases and a lot bigger test project then I originally thought. Keep ‘em comin Peter

John That would be an awesome choice and the parts do fit ... Looking forward to the Skyraider. Keep 'em comin Peter

John The absolute definition of a bad fit ... horrendous at best. Any thoughts now as to your next project? Keep 'em comin Peter

Rob I'm not giving up just yet and re-shot three more small wing panels with Hataka, MRP & Mr Color for one more series of test. Then I'll have all the info and and results for us to share. I have also found out that no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't peel off the clear film from any of the decals on any of the NMF panels and it's not necessary as you can't see the decal film at all. I never over spray my NMF after decaling with any clear coats, so I will post images of the panels as they are. I thought I would break the unwritten rule and try and lift the clear film from the decals on the painted panels, with good old plain masking tape, not Tamiya tape as it isn't sticky enough. The film did break loose using regular hardware store masking tape and I could peel the carrier film off with no effect on the painted surfaces. Thusly the reason for the three more painted panels, to redo this test using the masking tape on three different paints. Film at eleven. Keep 'em comin Peter

Stop the press❗ After allowing the decals to dry for 3 hours, I tried removing the clear decal film from the test wing that was painted with Hataka lacquer and the results were not good at best. Peeling the clear film off is frustrating and the term 'time consuming' doesn't even come close. The more I tried picking at the clear film, I not only removed the majority of the clear film but some the the ink decal and destroyed the painted wing in that area, not only scratching the paint but took chunks of it out as well. I even tried rubbing Tamiya Tape over the clear film and then peeling it up and a total no go. So right now, my finding ob the painted wing, it's a no go. Not worth the time or effort. I'm now going to test the next wing panel, leaving the carrier film alone, apply clear gloss and see what happens. And I haven't even touched the AK and Alclad panels yet. Keep 'em comin Peter

Harv I was actually thinking the decals would be just so so and a let down and so far, holy cow, they are performing magnificently. Keep 'em comin Peter

Martin Yikes - awesome photographs. Keep 'em comin Peter

UPDATE 11/14/21: TEST RESLTS SO FAR: No pics yet but I've applied the new Eduard decals to six different wing panels, four with NMF's, one with Hataka Olive Drab and one with Mig Interior gree - both clear coated with Hataka Clear Gloss (lacquer). next update will be the results with images. Results so far: OMG, the new Eduard decals are as thin as Cartograf, lay down magnificently and actually seem to straighten themselves out when as I applied them and didn't get a few perfectly straight, seemed to nearly jump into a straight line as I worked them. Initial first impressions: Applied with the 'classical method" of Micro Set and Sol, used as per the Micro instructions and with 'soft' water, they are the equal to Cartagraf! Yes, the carrier film is on. I'm going to let the decals dry for at least six plus hours and then tonight or tomorrow, remove the carrier film. Keep 'em comin Peter

Phil Sure hope there is enough popcorn as I’ll be on front and center the entire way as well 🍿 Keep ‘em comin Peter